GWD: From Milano to NYFW: Men’s

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Style Icon Fabrizio Oriani Brings GWD to New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Via Vogue France
Via Vogue France

From desk job to style icon. From a small town in northern Italy to New York. Follow the amazing journey of Fabrizio Oriani, founder of GWD.

GWD began in Milan as blog in October 2012 and has evolved into a one of the most followed menswear websites in the world, sharing images, inspiration, and interviews by some of the globe’s top style influencers.

In only 3 years, the GWD Instagram has surpassed 110k dedicated followers, with close to 35k followers on Facebook. Fabrizio is one of the most photographed style icons on the planet today, appearing in Vogue, Esquire, and High Snobiety — to name a few. But where and how did it all begin?

Fabrizio grew up in the small town of Lecco that lies at the end of the southeastern branch of Lake Como, Italy. After his studies in 1998 he became part of the IBM Corporation, where he was employed for 17 years. During those years at IBM, while overseeing the growth of GWD, he was able to complete his MBA at Warwick University.

In 2011, he met Charley, the love of his life and amazing street photographer in her own right. Once GWD began to take off, she began working with him side-by-side. He decided to sell his property in Lecco and move to Milan.

In January of 2016, he made a major life decision: to take a break from IBM and take a two year sabbatical to dedicate 100% of his time to GWD. Now he’s on his way to expanding and growing GWD at New York Fashion Week: Men’s.

In January of 2016, he began a two year sabbatical to dedicate 100% of his time to GWD.

Q: You made the decision to expand GWD to New York Fashion Week: Men’s this season. What inspired that idea? What’s on your agenda while you’re in NYC? And what are you hoping to accomplish?

Via Esquire
Via Esquire

I believe NYC is the place to be, and certainly NYFW puts this incredible city under even an more special spotlight. I will actually attend some shows and presentations; moreover, I want to meet my virtual U.S.-based contacts and share the GWD story.

I believe US is a major greenfield for GWD in terms of services we are currently providing to our clients.

Q: GWD has 110k followers on IG and 31k followers on FB and growing. Fabrizio, when you look at how GWD has grown since 2012, how does that make you feel? What were the pros and cons associated with its development?

Sometimes I can still hardly believe it, and it feels great, even though I think we haven’t done much so far. There’s a lot more to do.

Truly speaking, I can’t see any cons. I’m living my dream, putting all my passion and motivation to inspire the entire GWD family, and bringing to them a lot of exclusive content and inspiration.

I’m living my dream, putting all my passion and motivation to inspire the entire GWD family.

Q: You recently added the GWD e-shop, where you have accessories ready to buy. How do you pick and choose what brands you want to display on the website? And who are some of those brands? Is this something that will be accessible to the American market in the future?

Via High Snobiety
Via High Snobiety

The GWD philosophy is very simple: we only do things we like. Thus the brand / product selection adheres strictly to this point.

In addition, we want to continue to reach the global niche of many connoisseurs who want to have exclusive and unique clothing and accessories.

We have for instance Progetto Fede, an incredible artisan project of uniquely handmade rings / bracelets / chains / bags which can put a twist on your wardrobe.

Actually we sell worldwide and we have a lot of happy American customers.

We reach connoisseurs who want to have exclusive and unique clothing and accessories.

Q: I had the pleasure of interviewing Charley, your fiancée, who is also the photographer at GWD. She is a beautiful and intelligent woman. What is the key to keeping your love strong for each other, and still working together in the professional world? What advice can you give other couples in this industry who work together?

Someone once said “money and blood don’t mix,” but I totally feel the opposite.

Our great love is a great source of motivation, inspiration, and it gives us the strength and perseverance to keep on doing what we do every day.

Our great love is a great source of motivation and inspiration.

Q: I have been following you for a couple years now on IG and FB, and have seen the growth of GWD myself. It’s impressive. You are also global style icon, a staple in the menswear arena, photographed by some of the top style photographers everywhere you go. You wear some of the top menswear brands in Italy, pushing the envelope with vibrant colors and bold patterns. How does it feel to be this global style icon? And how do you decide what to wear? Are there any pieces that you won’t leave the home without? Does Charley give you any input?

I truly don’t feel like a global style icon. I’m just a young man who is on his journey to “build his own style.” I’m very creative and I like to mix different pieces, different materials, with different brands.

I just want to feel comfortable in what I’m wearing. Hats and rings are always with me. Charley sometimes challenges me to try something new, to experiment, and she’s really helpful in my journey.

I just want to feel comfortable in what I’m wearing.

Q: Which brands have you collaborated with?
 

Since we started, we’ve collaborated with some of the coolest menswear brands around; we’ve enjoyed working with Lardini, LBM, Tagliatore, The Gigi, Borsalino, Preventi, Pollini … to name just a few.

Q: You and your team at GWD recently directed and produced a fashion film for Briston Watches with the collaboration of your good friend Gianni Fontana, aka The Style Buff. I’ve seen the video and it’s so well done: it’s classy, elegant, and to the point. How long did it take to put this short fashion film together with your team of 3-4 people? How did you up come up with the concept? Will you be doing more short films for other brands?

Thanks, Laura, we are delighted you appreciated it.

It took one day of shooting and about a week of post production.

The concept is about telling a cozy story of inspiration, using the incredibly beautiful place where we live. We wanted to be true; we want to do something people can identify themselves with. The concept is about enjoying life with people you love: the verbal nail is “Never mind the weather, good time together.” (If you notice that day was a rainy one, but despite the unlucky conditions, we had great time.)

I definitely believe videos will increasingly be the media used on social media networks.

The concept is about enjoying life with people you love.

Q: When we met in Milan, you expressed your passion for music and DJing. You were a DJ at some of the top clubs in Milano. Are you hoping to get back into spinning records at major clubs again?

Via Esquire
Via Esquire

Yes, music is my greatest passion and a deep source of inspiration for me. I’ve played as a DJ in Milano in places like Soul2Soul, The Black, and Santa Tecla Café.

Now that I’m more free to do what I love, I will definitely go back to DJing.

Now that I’m more free to do what I love, I will definitely go back to DJing.

Q: If you had one wish to meet your favorite musician / DJ who would that be? And why?

Jay Z; he’s my favorite living artist.

Jay Z is my favorite living artist.

Q: Tell me about your signature phrase, “Build your own style.”

#BuildYourOwnStyle is the essence of GWD.

We hope people following us will be inspired to create their own style, in this long and winding path, with an unknown destination.

#BuildYourOwnStyle is the essence of GWD.

Q: What style icons have influenced you over the years … and how?

The list is too long, and I don’t wont to miss anyone. I’m not only inspired by style icons, I’m inspired everyday, in the streets, having a coffee or just jumping on a metro.

Q: In the next 5 years, where do you see yourself and GWD? Maybe a magazine in the future?

Tough question. My vision is to create a cozy place for people to visit on the Internet. For sure, a printed magazine could be a great idea, as we have so many cool pictures to put in.

My vision is to create a cozy place for people to visit on the Internet.

Q: You’ve inspired many people around the world — including myself — and that must be a huge personal accomplishment. What advice can you give men out there who want to follow in your footsteps in developing their own style?

Be yourself, every day, and don’t be afraid to experiment; to invent.

Don’t be afraid to experiment; to invent.

Travel, listen to the music you like, read a lot, find someone like you, and together live your dream.

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Thank you for sharing your story with us Fabrizio, and we wish you the best in your adventure in NYC!

 
Learn More

Web: GWD

With love,

FWO

The Fashion Week Online VIP Lounge with Caravan Stylist Studio

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A Great Place to Relax And Unwind During NYFW

 
the-gregory-1 Fashion Week Online, Caravan Stylist Studio and The Gregory Hotel are partnering this season to bring a new level of relaxation — and fun — to NYFW.

 
VIP Stylist Studio

Complimentary hair styling, makeup, and manicures will be offered by appointment only and based on availability, during New York Fashion Week at the Caravan Stylist Studio on the mezzanine of The Gregory Hotel, sponsored by OGX, Christo styling team, Pixi & Pop make-up, Color Club nail polish, beverages by KeVita, Volvic and Belvoir, and snacks from Nature Addicts.

Caravan Stylist Studio is an innovative wardrobe and beauty studio that pairs actresses from top TV shows, including Orange Is The New Black, Jane the Virgin, Younger, The Americans, and Blacklist, among others, as well as tastemakers and media influencers with top fashion designers and beauty experts.

Industry only, book your complimentary appointment here.

 
 
Open-to-the-Public Events

Fashion Week Online will be streaming designer runway shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week at The Liquor Cabinet at The Gregory Hotel. Guests and locals can enjoy an all-access experience and watch models showcase the new Fall/Winter collections on the catwalk.

February 11th – 13th, 9 AM – 6 PM

NYC designer KahriAnne Kerr will preview her new, original art-printed collection of dresses, shirts, fashion dolls, pillows and bags. Kahri’s designs are sold in over 20 boutiques worldwide, including in the U.S. England, Scotland, Austria, Spain and Israel as well as 30 online boutiques. (No reservation required! Just come out to The Gregory Hotel.)

February 15th – 17th, 9 AM – 6 PM

Sarah Carson, founder of Leota New York, will preview her brand’s new Spring 2016 collection, featuring New York City-made dresses, where comfort, confidence, and style take center stage; bringing you from desk-to-dinner effortlessly. Sold in over 300 fine retailers worldwide, the line includes a range of silhouettes and style categories fit for Contemporary, Maternity, and special sizes. (No reservation required! Just come out to The Gregory Hotel.)

February 16th, 6 PM

Fashion Week Online‘s NY Editorial Director — and founder of FashionsGuyNY.comChris Collie, will host a Fireside Session at The Gregory Hotel, presenting a recap of the fashion and beauty trends seen at February Fashion Week in New York. Held in the lobby, around the fireplace, hotel guests and fashion enthusiasts can expect to learn about Fall/Winter trends shown at New York Fashion Week, while enjoying cocktails from The Liquor Cabinet, and will have the opportunity to ask Collie questions to help tailor the discussion.

Find out more here.

We hope to see you there!

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Find out more at FashionWeekOnline.com/lounge.

VIP-LOUNGE-INVITE FASHION WEEK FEB 2016

With love,

FWO

Paris Men’s & Haute Couture Shows

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Paris Menswear and Haute Couture: 2016

 
Select replays here.
 
 

Via HadidNews
Via HadidNews
Paris Homme (Men’s) shows have just wrapped. These are followed by Paris’ “haute couture” shows … without a doubt, the most intense series of fashion events on the planet.

We’ll be updating our Paris channel as replays roll in. Enjoy!

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Watch select Paris Men’s and Haute Couture replays at FashionWeekOnline.com/paris/replays.

With love,

FWO

#IAmNYFW: Pre-Show Event

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NYFW: The Revolution Continues

 
IAMNYFW-PartyInvitations will soon be going out for the #IAMNYFW pre-show event with FTL Moda and Fashion Week Online, in conjunction with the Global Disability Network.

We’ve been talking about a beautiful revolution in the fashion industry for some time. “You are beautiful.” “The Age of Us.” No matter how you slice it, “inclusivity” is the watchword, with an emphasis on being true to yourself.

It’s a trend fueled by a new sense of acceptance, culturally led by everyone from Amy Schumer to Caitlyn Jenner to super-blogs like Man Repeller.

“Inclusivity” is the watchword, with an emphasis on being true to yourself.

 
The Revolution: From Models With Down’s Syndrome To Body Acceptance

The trend has come to fashion in a big way: This the era of your style. Your look. Your body type. Even, your “disability.”

Shaholly AyersAt the forefront of this ideal has been FTL Moda, which will be turning 10 in 2016. They’ve featured models such as Madeline Stuart, the model with Down’s Syndrome, Jack Eyers, nominated Man of the Year by Men’s Health Magazine, Rebekah Marine, the “bionic model,” and Shaholly Ayers, the first model to walk in NYFW without a prosthesis.

Shaholly — a congenital amputee — suffered horrible bullying when she was a child. At age 18 she left her native Ohio to become a role model for the many who would have never believed they had a shot in the industry. She is also a 2016 brand ambassador for Global Disability Inclusion, who has partnered with FTL Moda for the past two years to bring disability to NYFW. Shaholly’s journey has been shaped by this partnership and she has modeled in New York and Milan Fashion Week, as well as for Nordstrom and Wilhelmina.

These models have already paraded to showcase emerging and established international designers to general applause and industry appreciation, garnering press in everything from Vogue Italia to US Magazine to Cosmopolitan to E! Online, Today.com … among many others.

FTL Moda is preparing for its FW2016 runway presentation of international designers at New York Fashion Week on February 15th.

 
madeleine-stuart-i-am-nyfw

#IAmNYFW EVENT

FTL MODA will be celebrating the launch of a new Midtown Manhattan showroom, and kicking of Fall Winter 2016, with its new “#IAmNYFW” pre-show launch event, on February 13th, to be attended by Shaholly Ayers and Rebekah Marine. The event will be realized in partnership with Carlsberg Italia, introducing the Birrificio Angelo Poretti label to the US market.

Although the event is primarily industry focused, some tickets will be available for the general public, so stay tuned. After all, you are #NYFW, too.

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madeleine-stuart

With love,

FWO

Milano Men’s Replays

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Milan Menswear: 2016

 
Replays here.
 

milan-mens-fw16Milano uomo! (“Uomo” means “man.” Yep: we totally researched that.)

The menswear season is in full swing, with its latest stop in Italy (like mixed metaphors? a little specialty of ours), where fashion is sort of like sunlight, or espresso: everywhere, and impressively great.

We’ll be updating our Milan channel as replays roll in. Enjoy!

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Watch all the Milano Uomo replays at FashionWeekOnline.com/milan/replays.

With love,

FWO

Tune-In for Calvin Klein LIVE stream from Milan Men’s on Sunday!

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Watch it Here, LIVE at 8 AM EST on Sunday!

Get ready for menswear, LIVE from Milan as only Calvin Klein can bring it!

Tune-in here on Sunday (8 AM EST) and enjoy!


(Live stream will play above.)

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With love,

FWO

Pitti Menswear Show, Day 2

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Pitti Uomo Day 2

Photos by Miguel Vieira

Miguel Amaral VieiraThe sense of camaraderie was even more palpable at Day 2 of Pitti Uomo, the signature menswear show of Florence. And photographer Miguel Vieira was there to capture it. Enjoy!

 
Immagine Menswear
 
[portfolio_slideshow id=9922 align=center width=699 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true]

The Milan menswear shows start in a couple of days, so stay tuned!

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Meet The Photographer

Web: beyondfabric.tumblr.com
Facebook: @BeyondFabricblog
Instagram: @beyond_fabric

With love,

FWO

“Kimono for the Future!” Kimonos Come to New York Fashion Week

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Photo: Daniele Duella and Iango Henzi for i-D
Photo: Daniele Duella and Iango Henzi for i-D

Bringing Real Kimono to New York Fashion Week

Kimono Hiro-new-york-fashion-week-4This is exactly the kind of story that gives us goosebumps. It just intersects with so many things we love: artisan craftsmanship, bringing traditional processes and designs into the modern era: and perhaps even — on a deeper scale — the notion that the earth’s heritage belongs to all of us.

Oh, it’s also the first Kickstarted-funded NYFW show.

Will kimono become a recognized as a “universal formal wear that is beyond cultural and ethnic boundaries?” With designs like this, we’re pretty sure it will.
Reversing The Trend
Kimono Hiro-new-york-fashion-week-main-2
The NYFW Event

Kimono Hiro-new-york-fashion-week-main-1
Yay!

We’ll update you with pictures and videos after the event.

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The Show is February 16, 2016

On the NYFW Calendar
On Facebook @kimononyfw

With love,

FWO

Immagine Menswear: Photos from Pitti Uomo in Florence

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At Pitti Immagine

Photos by Miguel Vieira

Miguel Amaral VieiraPhotographer Miguel Vieira says he favors “candid shots over posing ones, where I can capture moments and transport readers into what Pitti is actually all about.”

Indeed, his photos from this year’s Pitti Immagine Uomo — the signature menswear gathering in Florence — convey the unmistakable spirit of camaraderie and kinship for which the event is known.

They also capture a range of familiar style luminaries and icons, such as Angel Ramos (of Angel Bespoke), Mr. Raro of Mararo, Luca Rubinacci of Mariano Rubinacci, Guillaume Bo (of Men Need More Style) and others.

 
Immagine Menswear
 
[portfolio_slideshow id=9880 align=center width=599 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true]

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Meet The Photographer

Web: beyondfabric.tumblr.com
Facebook: @BeyondFabricblog
Instagram: @beyond_fabric

With love,

FWO

World’s Greatest Shoemaker: Simone Cecchetto

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Simone Cecchetto:
Shoes
with

Soul

 


FWO Presents: The Simone Cecchetto Interview

In 2011, $1,965 on Luisaviaroma
In 2011, $1,965 on Luisaviaroma

It is my opinion that Simone Cecchetto is the greatest shoemaker alive today. His shoes are expensive. Very expensive. And I’m proud to say that — in lieu of a nicer car or a larger apartment — I own three pairs (two purchased used). I’m also afraid to wear them, in spite of the message clearly stamped on the box that comes with every pair: “HANDMADE IN ITALY. DO NOT HANDLE WITH CARE.” So why buy them at all? Because, to me, they are the works of an artist. An artist whose medium just happens to be shoes.

They are the works of an artist whose medium just happens to be shoes.

There are several things I look for when buying clothes. One is quality: I would prefer to have one item that will last 20 years over 20 items that will last one year. Another is experience. When I touch something, I like to feel like it’s something: not another cloneform spat out of a giant machine. That — like an African mask or a vintage box — it has a story to tell, even if I can never know it.

And it’s also why the pair of shoes above riveted my attention back in 2014.

$2,000 for a pair of shoes with built-in duct tape? This is either the work of a charlatan, a prankster, or a genius. I was fascinated. As it turns out, however, it was just the tip of the iceberg.

 
Works by Simone Cecchetto
 
[portfolio_slideshow id=8495 align=center width=599 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true]

The man behind the brand — originally called Augusta, now sometimes A Diciannoveventitre, or A1923 — is artist Simone Cecchetto. He’s also an original member of Carpe Diem, the studio created by Maurizio Altieri devoted to old world craftsmanship and experimental treatments with leather. The looks have been a smash with the avant garde (sometimes called “streetwear” or “dark fashion”) clothing set, sold by specialty purveyors such as H. Lorenzo in Los Angeles, Archive in San Francisco, PNP in Florence, Vertice in London, Anchoret in Beijing, Hide-M in Munich, and Darklands in Berlin (among others).

It intersects with other Carpe Diem graduates and offshoots such as Maurizio Amadei of M.A+ and Luca Laurini‘s Label Under Construction, and resonates in designers today from Incarnation to Boris Bidjan Saberi. On the more experimental side, he shares aesthetic (if not direct) kinship with artists such as Sruli Recht, famous for creating shark tooth gloves you can never take off (humorously named, “A Lasting Impression”).

“Soft spoken and passionate” is how Arthur of The Archive — the men’s designer boutique in San Francisco — describes Simone. “His shoes in my opinion exhibit what’s known as wabi-sabi: a Japanese term or philosophy of embracing natural irregularities: the scarring, textures, colors, how the hide absorbs the dye, etc.”

As a brand, A1923 also has its imitators. But Simone Cecchetto’s work and vision remains at the very forefront in terms of quality, originality and color.

Q: How did you become involved or interested in — or obsessed with — working with leather and shoes? How did that bring you to Carpe Diem?

While conducting my studies in History of Art I became preoccupied with the human body toward the end of my studies. Through my research on the human body I discovered my fascination with leather and the animal skin as a medium of expression. My research on leather did not bring me to Carpe Diem, but my interest in the human body and performance art.

While conducting my studies in History of Art I became preoccupied with animal skin as a medium of expression.

a1923-shoes-farfetch-2

Q: I’ve always been so curious: what does “A Diciannoveventitre” mean? What does “A1923” mean? And why the name change?

The first name Augusta originates from my grandmother. The name was initially meant as homage to my grandmother, and A1923 is the continuation. She taught me the value of simplicity and understanding as well as appreciation for not only basics, but also what is elementary. In terms of what the name means, I believe it tries to embody some of those values.

My grandmother taught me what is elementary.

Q: Do you still make all shoes by hand, or do you have help now?

At this point, my time is spent mainly on sourcing of hides, development of leather through tanning, and the treatment and color process, along with working on prototypes through developing shapes. This is a process with incremental developments, and takes all of my time.

a1923-white-a

The stitching by hand of the shoes in production is today done by skilled artisans, which do not work in anything reminiscent of a factory. They are able to follow their own traditions and make their own structure in their workshops.

The sourcing of the leather, overseeing and controlling the tanning process — along with treatments and color — is still done by hand, by me, but there is simply not enough time to stitch them all by hand myself. This is a lengthy process, and a very skilled artisan is not often able to stitch more than a couple of pairs in one day.

A very skilled artisan is not often able to stitch more than a couple of pairs in one day.

1923-white-b

Q: You’re a master colorist. I have a pair of SP1 ankle boots from you that are black, green, ash, or even eggplant colored, depending on the light. My girlfriend and I never get tired of talking about how they change from indoors to outdoors. How do you achieve a complex color effect like this?

Having conducted a lot of research — and working hands-on — has given me the understanding of how different leathers will take different colors. But as touched upon already, there will always be varieties even within the same style and leather for one season. This is due to the individual variation of the leather which becomes much more distinguishable through tanning in the way we do.

a1923-shoes-farfetch-1

Choosing to live where the tanneries are, the creative process evolves organically through daily exchange with skilled craftsmen. Conducting research was always important in my process, and continues to be so. These craftsmen honor their traditions and know their history. While respecting this heritage, I am still able to question how things are done. Through working in this way, incremental changes in the process happen continuously.

Conducting research is always important in my process.

Q: The first time I gave my cobbler a pair of A1923 shoes to Vibram, he was amazed at the weight of the shoe, and at the quality. He kept saying, “This is SO MUCH leather!” What can you tell us about that aspect of the shoes. What makes them so high quality?

I believe the previous answers have touched upon the topics relevant for discussing the quality of the shoes. Different makers choose to work in different ways, both out of financial reasons as well as aesthetic concerns.

Through the process of creating our shoes I am the link through all the steps. There is no production line; no finished leather bought with a specified color. The process rests in my hands, instead of someone else’s. Many times these people are skilled craftsmen, but might not necessarily understand why a given end result is wanted, quality-wise or aesthetically.

There is no production line; no finished leather bought with a specified color.

Our process starts with sourcing the leather while it still has the fur on, untanned and un-dyed. My interest has always been in the leather, and by buying the leather in this state we are able to experiment and achieve the individual variation we do through conducting and monitoring the tanning and dyeing processes. Hopefully this shows through to the final product, and people like your cobbler might appreciate it or not.

a1923-red-front

Q: You have imitators now in the marketplace: brands making shoes that look almost identical to yours. What continues to set A1923 apart?

I do not want to be the judge over other people’s work. My wish is for people to understand more fully the process of crafting a shoe, and then decide what is important for them when deciding what to buy.

Q: What do you see for the future?

 
In my new project I’m working with the owner of a tannery. I have carte blanche over the tanning pools in a given period, allowing me to conduct research at a bigger scale. I am currently tanning leather for lengthy periods of time in order to get the results I want, similar to what used to be done traditionally, but a process which has been made faster in the last century.

The idea is to continue this accumulative research on this process by employing it on different animal hides to enhance the properties of the finished leather.

With the leather research project now reaching a point where the characteristics and quality are hard to dilute, I am open to share this accumulative research and see how other groups and individuals will interpret its properties through their work.

I am open to share my accumulative research and see how other groups and individuals will interpret its properties through their work.

a1923-red-three-quarters

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Pictures from FarFetch.com.

 
Learn More

Web: adiciannoveventitre.com
Facebook: @adiciannoveventitre
Twitter: #adiciannoveventitre
IG: @augusta1923

With love,

FWO