Arab Fashion Week Roundup

Shweta Bhatia
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Arab Fashion Week Roundup

(Main photo designer: Laura Mancini)

Arab Fashion Week Roundup

Arab Fashion Week in Dubai is making a name for itself in the field of “ready couture”; and — more importantly — by the indisputable quality of its production and featured designers. Created by the Arab Fashion Council, in partnership with Sheikh Mohammed Maktoum Bin Juma Al Maktoum Investment, the five-day event in Dubai recently hosted a swarm of international designers.

The result was a diverse assortment of designers showcasing a range of styles and backgrounds, all while keeping close to Arab Fashion Week’s signature “ready couture” approach.

 
Day 1

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Day 1 started with Abdo Aouadi, who displayed his feminine silhouettes with rich embroidery with subtle hues, followed by Jenanne Filat, the Palestine-American designer who wowed the audience with her menswear lineup. The right mix of vibrant colors and pastels made the collection apt for the region.

The right mix of vibrant colors and pastels

Mrhua Mrshua highlighted the monochrome, using accessories that had a tribal vibe. Marchesa marked the end of Day 1, with the brand leaving the crowd mesmerized. Their trademark appliqué and delicately detailed gowns received a great reception, as predicted.

 
Day 2

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On Day 2, demi couture and prêt-à-porter brand Ilse Jara used strong textures that incorporated art motifs. Laquan Smith and Laura Mancini showcased their collections as well. Where the former brought back rock chic with firm cuts and thigh-high boots, the latter kept her collection classic and soft.

Jeans Couture took the bold path, with the reds and the blacks married creatively. Next-Generation Project dabbled between arty and modern cuts that enthralled the onlookers.

 
Day 3

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Indonesian designer Sapto Djojokartiko interpreted his vision with graphics and lace while Italian designer Renato Ballestra placed the pastel palette onto flowy gowns on Day 3.

Malliny brought back the ’60s with tea-length dresses and crocheted tops.

With the right amount of embroidery, Speranza Couture gave its craft a sophisticated edge. Florals seemed to dominate the collection, from empire waist to dainty neckline.

The day also witnessed Dubai designer Zoe Eckett with her modern take on the abaya — the local dress of the Middle East.

 
Day 4

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Day 4 featured Dubai-based Aiisha Ramadan exhibiting her L’Azure collection, which contained 48 different looks by women from different walks of life. The deep hues of blues and red drew inspiration from the depths of the ocean. The collection varied from swimsuits to couture dresses and gowns.

Bruno Caruso, was also present among the talent displayed. Caruso’s eclectic designs were the perfect depiction of modernity-meets-tradition.

While Caruso’s designs left everyone spellbound, Kristina Fidelskaya enthralled all with her ready-to wear collection. Her long flowing gowns were soft and made an impact.

Lace seemed to be the constant hero on the runway, and Polish designer Sylwia Romaniuk channeled the look spectacularly.

Lace seemed to be the constant hero on the runway

The day ended with Dubai’s favorite couturier Michael Cinco. Cinco never fails to impress. His attention to detail shows well in every design and is impeccable.

 
Day 5

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The last day of the week ended with the absolute best. Antonio Marras enticed fashion lovers with his bold prints and solid cuts. Marras always seems to have a tale to tell with his vivid collage of detailed patterns.

Ingie Chalhoub of the Ingie Paris had minimalist looks, but with an impact. Her choice of fabrics added the opulent touch, keeping the look absolutely clean and sharp.

We saw the return of Marchesa for the closing finale with their bridal collection. The Greek goddesses took to the runway, proving yet again that the brand never ceases to perform their magic. The voluminous dream-like gowns edged with chantilly lace were to die for.

All in all, Arab Fashion Week is proving that the Middle East is as serious about its fashion as for its love for everything luxurious. Here’s looking forward to next season.

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Learn More

arabfashionweek.org

With love,

FWO

KAOHS Returns to Miami Swim Week

Pablo Starr
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KAOHS Returns to Miami Swim Week

KAOHs Channels ’80s Bombshell

The Miami Swim Week schedule is heating up. And we’ve got some exciting news: one of the season’s most-anticipated shows, KAOHS’, will be held Friday, July 21st, 10 PM at the W South Beach (Wet Deck).

Born in 2013, KAOHS Swim is the brainchild of two California girls, Tess Hamilton and Ali Hoffmann, who are also best friends. Inspired by their love of California beach culture – a cool mix of skate, boho and surf – KAOHS Swim’s swimwear is designed for beach girls whose lifestyles demand comfortable and active (and sexy) beachwear.

KAOHs is a a cool mix of skate, boho and surf

A favorite among influencers like Kim and Kourtney Kardashian, Kendall and Kylie Jenner, Bella Hadid, Rocky Barnes, Alexis Ren, Pia Mia, Natasha Oakley — and many others — KAOHS is set to rock the runway at this year’s Swim Week.

 
KAOHS Swim

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This season, the swimwear brand is taking some inspiration by ‘80s bombshells.

According to Ali Hoffman, co-creator of the brand, “the 2018 collection starts out with a sophisticated feel, as the bikinis are shown in gingham and soft colors. To continue the ‘sweetheart’ feel from Resort, we begin to introduce an early spring collection with white and red eyelet bikinis and one pieces. To finish spring off, we were inspired by the ’80s, thus bringing in colors such as yellow, blue, red, and a rosebud print. You truly get a little bit of everything in this collection, all while still staying true to the KAOHS girl.”

You truly get a little bit of everything in this collection

Expect to see bikinis featuring high-waisted, hip-bone-grazing, deep-V bottoms matched with minimalist bandeau tops and body-hugging triangle tie-sides with ruffle embellishments. The off-the-shoulder, hip-bone-revealing one-pieces in pretty pastels add a flirty twist to the line’s fitted style, that comes across more innocent than vixen.

The swimwear is designed in Orange County, California and made in Los Angeles, California.

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Learn More

kaohs.com
Register for Miami Swim Week

With love,

FWO

Dior Homme Summer 2018: The Future is Genderless

Pablo Starr
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Dior Homme Summer 2018: The Future is Genderless

Kris Van Assche: Gender Blending the Rules of Menswear

Gender fluidity is a beautiful thing. Not specifically because it blurs the lines between the sexes (though that’s helpful in so many ways), but because it contains a larger message: that the age of meaningless tribes is (albeit slowly) on its way out. “Us vs. them” is the illusory distinction that powers every conflict — from gender wage disparity to genocide — and lies behind every pointless bit of social Sneetchery.

I’ve probably had better trips to Paris than during last Paris Fashion Week, when my phone died and — disoriented without my planning touchstone, and having a brain like a sieve — I found myself leaving my wallet back in my hotel, and missing a show when I couldn’t pay the cab. (A serious, serious problem, I realize.)

 
Dior Homme Summer 2018

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It was after the missed show that I found myself in the Dior Homme store on Avenue Montaigne for a little retail therapy (on a credit card that I’m still paying off, thankyouverymuch). Not surprisingly, I ended up buying the type of thing I always do: a ripped denim jacket, firmly entrenched in the rock and roll canon.

It’s a great jacket, don’t get me wrong. But immediately afterward, I crossed the street and found myself in the women’s store, looking at Maria Grazia Chiuri’s genius tarot- and fencing-inspired collection.

It was — I knew — a world of magic and wonder I could never really expect to see in menswear.

Any man who has ventured into the women’s section with his girlfriend — or, if he’s braver than me, by himself — may immediately find himself with a serious case of “clothes envy.” Let’s face it: when it comes to menswear, our options are traditionally limited. We can divide most of our clothing into several buckets: dressy, rock, hip-hop, sport, gothy — or some, mainly familiar, combo thereof.

when it comes to menswear, our options are traditionally limited

All of which, very circuitously, brings us to the subject of fashion, and Kris Van Assche’s new collection for Dior Homme.

Although the collection’s focus is on wearability, mixing tailored looks with au courant sportswear pieces, there’s a genderless sensibility that permeates many of the looks: from the skinny scarves to short-shorts, to shirts cut like blouses.

While keeping true to its “A-story” vision — a Hogwarts-by-way-of-Reebok night at the prom — it succeeds in a noble B-story, indeed: a world with less separation between people, and where people like me are inspired to wear more than a very-safe denim jacket.

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Learn More

www.dior.com

With love,

FWO

Tankovitz: Brand to Watch at Miami Swim Week

Pablo Starr
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Tankovitz: Brand to Watch at Miami Swim Week

Tankovitz Gets Set to DIVE Into Summer

Our Miami Swim Week preview continues with Tankovitz, whose show will be July 21 in conjunction with DIVE. (See the Miami Swim Week schedule for details.)

No one can argue the diverse perspective of Andrea Tankovitz. The half-Columbian, half-Austrian was born in Venezuela and raised in Mexico before settling in Miami to pursue her dream in fashion design. Andrea launched Tankovitz Couture in 2015, a series of gowns and pieces that emphasized classy silhouettes inserted with a hint of sultriness.

 
Tankovitz

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Her work has captured recognition and demand by notable personalities, having glided over the red carpets of the Golden Globes and Latin Billboard awards. Andrea most recently expanded the distinct Tankovitz aesthetic into swim with her DUNAMIS collection.

The swimwear series will debut in collaboration with DIVE Swim Week in an unconventional runway presentation during Miami Swim Week (though a peek of what’s to come can be spotted poolside in Omi’s “Hula Hoop” music video).

“This collection is about empowerment, but also self-love, respect … and a little sensuality,” says designer Andrea Tankovitz of her upcoming Lincoln Road runway presentation. “I recall attending DIVE’s very first production and immediately knew that I wanted to be a part of the program some day, somehow. Two years later, it’s incredible that I get to partner with them for my own very first show.”

This collection is about empowerment, but also self-love, respect

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Learn More

tankovitz.com

With love,

FWO

Salty Mermaid & Versakini: 2 Brands to Watch at Miami Swim Week

Pablo Starr
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Salty Mermaid & Versakini: 2 Brands to Watch at Miami Swim Week

Two Brands to Watch at Miami Swim Week

As we venture more deeply into summer — and even as the men’s fashion week shows are in full swing — our eyes are already on Miami Swim Week.

Now’s a great time to have a look at the Miami Swim Week schedule for what to expect, and to register if you haven’t done so.

Swimwear and resort are essential parts of the fashion (week) mix, and no one does swimwear better than Miami. To that end, FWO will be featuring some of the designers you can expect to see at the upcoming events, beginning with two very cool brands: Versakini and Salty Mermaid.

 
Versakini

Versakini got its start in 2015 after appearing on Shark Tank, and has showcased at Miami Swim Week before. Versatile in its approach to design and color, it’s aimed to complement any women’s figure. Influencers have enjoyed taking a dip in the pool and obsessing over their swimsuit all vacation.

it’s aimed to complement any women’s figure

Versakini Goddess Top
Versakini Goddess Top

Versakini’s popular Goddess Top can be worn in a dozen ways: in the form of a reversible halter top, or bandeau style — making it look like a new bathing suit every time.

Versakini’s Goddess Top can be worn in a dozen ways, to avoid tan lines

You can even switch it every hour to avoid tan lines.

 
 
Salty Mermaid

Salty Mermaid was founded by two best friends, aimed at creating swimsuits that empower the beauty of the woman within — and the world throughout. Designs include tropical prints and bright colors, but the core of the brand is as an agent of change: Salty Mermaid donates $10 of every purchase to Iracambi Organization, a Brazilian non-profit focused on keeping the country’s rainforest healthy and thriving.

Salty Mermaid MerBabe
Salty Mermaid MerBabe

Salty Mermaid donates $10 of every purchase to Iracambi Organization

Salty Mermaid has helped women find their inner #MerBabe, especially through their iconic MerBabe swimsuit, available in purple and green.

Look for these two brands at this upcoming Miami Swim Week. The schedule is still being finalized, so stay tuned!

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Learn More

SaltyMermaid.com
Versakini.com

With love,

FWO

Call to Garms: KTZ’s Quiet Riot at London Fashion Week: Men’s

Gabrielle Kynoch
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Call to Garms: KTZ’s Quiet Riot at London Fashion Week: Men’s

Anarchy in the UK

KTZ’s SS18 collection was a rebellion of khaki two-pieces, chain mail, and stud embellishments set against leather tailoring.

As the models stomped (or teetered) down the runway in paint-splattered ankle boots, the mood conveyed an anarchist riot in military garms. The khaki and black palette made up of patent leather looks and camo print outerwear were held together at the seams by shiny silver clips.

 
Behind the Scenes

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The collection included bombers, tailored jackets, and sleeveless denim jackets paired with shorts of varying lengths. Starting from fitted shorts, it grew into baggier sets and then morphed into slim-cut cigarette pants.

 
On the Catwalk

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The stand-out pieces were chainmail made from throw away can-tabs and monochromatic motifs that covered shirts and shorts. Branding the KTZ collection as a punk uniform, bandanas and veils concealed the models, creating anonymity, and adding to the riot theme.

chainmail made from throw away can-tabs and monochromatic motifs

For styling, KTZ paired the heels with black tube socks and delicate dangling earrings, blurring the lines of what’s feminine and what’s masculine.

The collection was a blend of classic punk staples: wet-look leather, safety pins, and boots, but updated for a modern market. The boots were heeled, the leather was tailored, and the safety pins had been traded in for carefully placed decoration.

KTZ’s SS18 collection is perfect for the modern anarchist.

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Learn More

k-t-z.co.uk

With love,

FWO

Moschino Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear and Women’s Resort Collection

FWO
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Moschino Spring/Summer 2018 Menswear and Women’s Resort Collection

Christopher Ræburn SS18, London Fashion Week: Men’s

Gabrielle Kynoch
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Christopher Ræburn SS18, London Fashion Week: Men’s

REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED, RÆBURN

Christopher Ræburn’s SS18 collection is a functional fluorescent mashup. Bold coral is spliced into grey through contrasting panels of jersey and repurposed material from kites.

The story behind Ræburn’s collection is sustainability, working with EXKITE to rework used kites into anoraks and macs to truly put the fluid movement into the drape of the silhouette. The lightness of the fabric carries the wind in the long-line coast as the models glide past.

 
Psychedelic Jers

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The story behind Ræburn’s collection is sustainability

Greys, whites, and the bold statement orange are interconnected to create dramatic two pieces, or layered to create a look that can survive the desert heat. See-through organza is used to create tunics and bucket hats and is even tailored into outerwear pieces. Camo prints are revealed underneath the bright coral and are used to create streetwear staples such as jerseys, shorts, and bomber jackets.

This collection is inspired by The Long Walk by Slavomir Rawicz; a tail of journey and survival tracing from Serbia to India. The elements of the desert aren’t restricted; it’s almost a preparation kit to survive the blistering sun. Along with this theme, a desert mouse — a jerboa — is printed onto tops to create an endearing travel companion.

This collection is inspired by The Long Walk by Slavomir Rawicz

Ræburn’s collection also brings a message from the desert. REMADE, REDUCED, RECYCLED, RÆBURN.

The four ideas are physically printed onto the collection through trims hanging as utility embellishments. As well as repurposing pre-flown kites, he sources organic cotton for his jersey, and has collaborated with footwear brand Palladium to create shoes made from recycled rubber. This collection hints as a warning against a desert-like future for wasteful consumers. The only thing that survives is Ræburn’s fluro desert rat.

 
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Learn More

Christopher Ræburn
EXKITE
Palladium

With love,

FWO

Three Easy Pieces: London Fashion Week: Men’s

Gabrielle Kynoch
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Three Easy Pieces: London Fashion Week: Men’s

Three Brands to Watch from London Fashion Week: Men’s

On the first day of London Fashion Week: Men’s, there was a lot to take in, but here are three of the many brands that stood out.

For more information, see the British Fashion Council site, or check out the schedule for all the men’s fashion weeks.

 
Meng Menswear

Meng, a textile authority, has exploded into spring 2017 with a collection of bold prints, marrying traditional Asian imagery with modern geometrics.

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Focusing on loungewear — which lends itself nicely to silk — the prints are applied to pyjamas, robes, t-shirts, and scarves. Relaxed silhouettes are used as a canvas to highlight the intricate work of the many fine artists and graphic designers behind the various patterns. A slight sag in the breast pockets of the t-shirts showed the careful consideration put into looking effortless.

Relaxed silhouettes are used as a canvas to highlight intricate work

The original hand-drawn designs include exotic birds, flowers in stages of bloom, checks, and polka dots. Plain t-shirts in bright teal, burnt orange, and regal purple are used to offset the plethora of prints, making the separates interchangeable.

Using the softest of fabrics — silk twill, silk satin, silk jacquard, silk stretch, and fine cotton — adds to the luxury. Weightless and delicate, these clothes are designed to make the wearer feel royal. Meng is branching into the menswear world with beautifully romantic pieces. Learn more.

Meng is branching into the menswear world with beautifully romantic pieces.

 
Leon Bara

Leon Bara SS18 collection is a modernised military uniform with futuristic features. The sound-bite to take away from this collection is that it’s functional. Everything from the fabric choices to the back straps sewn into the jackets make this an eminently wearable collection.

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You can see the mid-20th century links in the muted colour palette and the highly functional fabrics. Alcantara is used as a suede alternative. Soft to the touch, it lends itself to tailoring and, incredibly, is machine washable. Two-piece sets are created in modified cotton to become 100% water repellent, designed for the European weather.

The silhouettes in the collection are boxy and tailored. Tracksuits are engineered to become formal with shirts treated as classic staples.

“Our tailored items are sporty and our sporty items are tailored,” says Hugo Edwards when discussing the unique qualities of the collection in the Show Studios space.

Our tailored items are sporty and our sporty items are tailored

Pale blues and vermilion are used as bold contrasts to a mainly monochromatic collection. The strict colour restriction is echoed in the concise nature of the entire SS2018 range. Sharp seams, square shapes, and crisp fabrics are used to define the modern uniform. Lean more.

 
Gravalot

Gravalot’s motto is “Don’t Change, Transform.” From the contemporary African menswear label, this is evident in their use of traditional styles and colours adapted with modern streetwear silhouettes and technical fabrics.

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The SS17 collection is split in two: traditional tunics and short two-pieces in striking colours; and modern streetwear separates in black, white, and grey. The modern take on African clothing is designed for casual to formal dress, whereas the latter half in designed as Gravalot’s take on streetwear.

The modern take on African clothing is designed for casual to formal dress

The three-year-old brand has been finding its feet within the menswear market and has designed this capsule collection with runs of 100. The inspiration behind the collection has come from Dubai, Morocco, South African, and Nigeria.

Designed from cotton and linen, the summer collection makes a statement through its use of colour. Crisp white linen, bright gold, matte black, and royal purple and blue in sets of tunics and trousers create a traditional uniform for a hot city summer. Learn more.

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With love,

FWO

Boredwatch: Recycling Trends at Hyperspeed

Claire Stemen
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Boredwatch: Recycling Trends at Hyperspeed

When Everything New is Old … Again

Fashion and its trends are best understood as a circle, traveling round and round, forever arriving in the same places, but in different forms. Fashion is cyclical. Your mother has likely said it in reference to something from decades past that she gleefully pulled from her closet.

It’s not a revolutionary thought; it’s well known to the point of being hackneyed.

So why bother discussing it? In light of the recent media recycling in the past couple of years, I couldn’t help but see the same sort of reusing in our clothing. There’s comfort in what we know, comfort in something that’s a sure buy (which is really, really comforting for those trying to sell you things). But although the idea of recycling trends may seem “green” at first, in fact it becomes rather tiresome, and ultimately wastes more than it saves.

This became clear when I saw an ad for the movie of the ’90s series Baywatch, which to me was so bafflingly similar to the hundreds of other revamps: the live-action versions of Disney classics, the dozens of superhero films, and even the mystifying rework of the charming world of Archie comics (which broke my heart when I realized the gravity of the series). It’s a cyclical world, not in inspiration, but in simple redressing.

It’s a cyclical world, not in inspiration, but in simple redressing

In the past, trends have resurfaced in new ways, and I’d be incorrect and remiss to say they aren’t ever new now. Designers are as innovative as ever. The difference, as I see it in my youthful naïveté, is the longevity of such things.

I can think of a number of trends that blew up in the last couple of years that are already on their way out for the next, new thing. Typical trends last about five years and some schools of thought say fashion cycles about every 20 years. This, of course, isn’t quite correct in the “modern” age of fashion. “Fast fashion,” social media, and a widespread cultural nostalgia are the factors I would attribute to changing the lifespan of trends.

After all, the public sees a show live — or in posts — moments after it takes place. Celebrities may be able to snatch the genuine designer article, but fast fashion companies make variations at lightning speed for the public’s consumption. The next thing rolls out, in repeat, except at speeds that compromise quality and forward motion.

speeds compromise quality and forward motion

And the availability of high fashion styles can be a good thing; in any case it’s fairer to the fashion-loving consumer, though an abundance of choices isn’t in itself a good thing. For all of the options, many products come out looking very similar or exactly the same as the original and, for the entire keyworded popularity of social media, many of us end up looking like variations of the same thing too.

many of us end up looking like variations of the same thing

To be trendy or not to be, that is the perennial question.

Of course, the universal disclaimer in fashion is to do whatever you please, but in making such choices, the knowledge of what’s leading you to abandon the choker might lead you to a long-lasting and far more original answer.

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