Interview with Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang

Founded only in 2014, PH5 has already come far, thanks to the acumen of combined design / business team Wei Lin and Parsons-trained Mijia Zhang. Their Fall Winter 2017 collection draws inspiration from artist Martin Creed, who won the Turner Prize in 2001. Emulating the softness and playfulness of balloons, the collection is embedded with PH5’s love for fun and color. The stated aim of the collection is to “connect spectators with those feelings they have towards the colors, textures, and details of balloons. In order to accomplish this, the collection uses minimal but impactful materials and utilizes a balloon-like knitting stitch that moves freely with the body.” We spoke with Wei Lin and Mijia Zhang for an inside look at their partnership. Flying Colors [portfolio_slideshow id=26670 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] Q: Are you both fans of modern art? There are clearly a lot of influences in your work, from Martin Creed (in the most recent collection) even to Mark Rothko or Paul Klee (or at least we think so).  Mijia: Yes, PH5 is heavily influenced by art. Modern art, in particular, is my design database. Each season functions like a research project on a subject I choose. I start with a piece of artwork and allow myself to be intrigued by it, which then leads me to create various elements for the collection.

Each season functions like a research project.

Q: How did you both meet, and how did you know the partnership would work? What are your creative roles? Wei: We used to share an apartment together in FiDi New York. Mijia was completing her fashion design degree at Parsons, while I was working as a management consultant at Deloitte Consulting. Just like many other NY stories, we didn’t meet each other with the intention of eventually working on a brand together. We were friends first, and business partners later. Each season, Mijia comes up with creative designs, and I help her execute her ideas at my parents’ knitwear factory. Q: Knitted garments seem like quite a lot of work. Your garments especially so. What’s the process, start to finish, roughly? Mijia: Knitwear, in general, is more complicated than wovens because the design process begins with picking the right yarns. After I come up with my inspirations, I pick the core yarns for the season by evaluating their content, size and count of the yarns, and color offering. After the yarns are selected, we test stitches in our factory development center. After about 4-6 weeks of testing, we decide on our core stitches for the season and that’s when designing the garments finally begins. Our knit garments are fully fashioned, which means we computer-program knitting panels in the silhouette we design. Once panels are knitted and sewn together into garments, we fit and revise into the style we envision. Q: Is fashion art? The Nobel Committee made waves recently by awarding the Nobel Prize in Literature to Bob Dylan. Do you think we should distinguish between “high” and “low” art? Mijia: Reading art and distinguishing art is a very intimate thing. I often feel people go to an art exhibition trying to understand what it is about, but they often forget their initial feelings about the works of art.

Reading art and distinguishing art is a very intimate thing.

Art is a platform where artists can present their point of views, but the truth is, artists also expect the viewers to contribute by recognizing their own feelings. For me, the high and low should depend on the individual viewer. And we should embrace such individualism.   Q: What are your fashion influences?    Mijia: I’m hugely influenced by art. I like exploring different artists’ point of views and make my own interpretation of concepts. Q: Who is your core customer?   Wei: The PH5 girl is a modern, working woman. She’s independent, well-traveled, open-minded, and inspired. She cares about details, comfort and functionality as much as she does fashion. She is smart and dares to be different. She likes to play with her own sense of style and is constantly looking for interesting and smart designs. Q: What advice would you give to a designer — or design team — just starting out? Wei: Don’t give up. Starting a fashion brand can be challenging, particularly in today’s environment. But that’s also what makes it worthwhile. Each season listen to feedback, apply it, and keep trying. ## Learn More ph5.com With love, FWO

Interview with Alex Vinash

Flower appliqué, hand-embroidered birds and sheer looks dominated at the Alex Vinash Fall/Winter 2017 show. This season it was hard to ignore subtle political messages within every collection. Vinash paid homage to the 1920s, when women were liberated from the restricting codes of fashion to discover their newfound beauty and grace through clothing. Any correlation to the political movement resounding within most Americans right now? You can be the judge of that one. From the sheer tops and dresses to sequins and feather details, each model exuded the confidence to wear a look that demanded a certain stage presence: the very look Vinash loves to deliver. Before starting his career in fashion design, Vinash was a professional Argentinian ice skater, where his appreciation for the way every piece moves with the body was forged. Q: Do you remember the first piece you ever made? The first piece I made was a bodysuit that had tulle and flowers; it was so awesome! Vanity Fair actually used it for a video! It was such a memorable moment for me. Q: What was your inspiration for this collection? It was twofold. First, I was inspired by the Women’s Movement in the ’70s that showed the strength of a woman, highlighting the juxtaposition of her beauty and masculinity. I love the fact that their fight for equality then, resonates so strongly today. Second, the ’20s have always been an era I’ve garnered inspiration from; I love the feathers, sparkle, and classical femininity displayed during that time period, when going on a date took an entire day just to get ready!

I was inspired by the Women’s Movement in the ’70s.

  At the Show [portfolio_slideshow id=26622 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] (Photos by Steve Kim)   Runway [portfolio_slideshow id=26633 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] (Photos by Jack Paulus) Q: Which piece in this collection do you see has the “hero piece”   My hero piece has to be the green jumpsuit with capri oxford pants! Though it looks simple, it’s a must have. You can do SO much with it! Q: If you could dress anyone, who would you like to dress? Well, LOTS of people — where do I begin! I absolutely love, love, love Florence (from Florence + the Machine) and Taylor Swift! Q: What can everyone look forward to in the future of the brand? I will continue to make a statement through my pieces, bringing my handmade work to life. I believe in making beautiful clothes that make people feel even more beautiful. ## Learn More alexvinash.com With love, FWO

Interview with Son Jung Wan at NYFW FW17

Cue Prince’s “Raspberry Beret” and George Michael’s “Faith.” The ’80s were calling from the New York Fashion Week runway, particularly from the Son Jung Wan Fall/Winter 2017 collection. Think freedom, change, and affluence, as far as the eye can see. As one of the most experimental decades in history, it was an age of rebellion and taking risks. The FW17 Collection [portfolio_slideshow id=25991 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] The dramatic collection for both men and women emphasized the iconic exaggerated silhouettes of the ’80s with various layered materials and textures from bold, handcrafted knits, and glamorous embroidery to velvet in the most sumptuous shades. “I used a funky color palette of turquoise blue-green, ivory, lipstick red, and wine,” said Son Jung Wan. That she did. Models strutted down the runway adorned in rich hues that felt seasonably appropriate, bold, and luxe.

I used a funky color palette of turquoise blue-green, ivory, lipstick red, and wine.

The designer mixed and matched different checked patterns, and dove deeper into the era with off-the-shoulder fur stoles, oversized collars, and metallic embroidery. With unapologetically bold fur accents and luxurious patterns, Son Jung Wan’s collection gave a serious nod to the confidence of the decade while exuding a sense of contemporary sophistication.

The designer explored the extravagance of the ’80s.

When asked about how this collection had changed her as a designer, Son Jung Wan said, “It excites me. It makes me feel more glamorous and energetic.” ## Learn More sonjungwan.com With love, FWO

Chi Zhang Takes NYFW FW17

Hailing from China, Chi Zhang had his premiere show at the Space Shuttle Pavilion last week and took NYFW by storm. Although he has been awarded consecutively for the last 7 years as a designer in China, this was his first collection showing at NYFW. Zhang is deeply rooted in a change for the environment, especially in China, where masks are often worn due to the air pollution. In his collection, the use of gas masks is a symbol for just that. I was able to snag an interview with the designer right before his collection entered the runway.

Zhang is deeply rooted in a change for the environment.

  NYFW Undercover [portfolio_slideshow id=26534 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] (Photos: Greg Avenel)   Q: Describe in one word exactly what it feels like to be showing at New York Fashion Week? EXCITING! Yea, exciting.

Q: How did the concept of the use of dancers as models come into play? I’ve done dancing many seasons now, back home. But it’s very lucky for me here because you know all the dancers here are much better than back home. I casted so many New York freelance dancers here, it’s very good; you’ll see it later. Q: How did you become so involved and interested in the environment and pollution? I am against air pollution and back home it is so bad, so we have to protect ourselves. So back home when we sell one piece, we buy a tree seed to plant a tree.

When we sell one piece, we plant a tree.

Q: What do you hope your audience takes with them tonight after seeing your collection? They’re happy. More energy, more life, more enjoyable. Like me, I enjoy my life every day, I want them to feel my energy. I’m happy everyday. Q: Last thoughts? Next season I will come back with better English! ## Learn More www.chizhang.com With love, FWO  

Interview with Eli Azran and David Rimokh of RtA

Intro by Pablo Starr Perfection is, as they say, more of a journey than a destination. RtA (or Road to Awe) is just such a journey, summoned wholly by intention: an undertaking by three friends, Eli Azran, David Rimokh, and Evelyn Ungari, committed to a process of constant improvement. The collection itself has an almost ikebana-like philosophy. It’s not so much one single “thing they do,” but a desire to achieve an overall effect. In this case, the desired outcome is a woman who feels comfortable in her own skin. And more than comfortable: sexy, confident, and perhaps just a little dangerous.   Countdown to Ecstasy [portfolio_slideshow id=25684 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] Photos: Craig Barritt/WME IMG Collection Show credits: Hair provided by Linh Nguyen for Cutler, makeup provided by Marc Reagan for Bobbi Brown, and nails provided by Momo Quinn.   Interview by Kyleigh McCollam The palette for this season’s RtA was made up of “liquid black, used blue, chalk, and wine, accented with chain mail, skins, fox, raccoon, and lamb that sit alongside oversized jean jackets and sweatshirts.” Kyleigh caught up with Eli Azran and David Rimokh at the show to find out more about the new collection, and what makes the partnership tick. Q: What’s the inspiration behind this collection, and where do you go to get inspired? Eli: We’re fortunate to live in LA, the birthplace of jeans, leather jackets, and t-shirts. You don’t have to go very far for that. So as far as inspiration is concerned, I would say it’s a daily thing. We’re lucky enough to live in the capital of that look. David: The brand is all about effortless chic. Items in a girl’s everyday wardrobe. T-shirt, jeans, denim. Biker jackets, cashmere.

The brand is all about effortless chic.

Eli: Everyone kind of aspires for the “off-duty model” look, but how do you translate that to normal people? Q: How do you do it?   Eli: It’s art. It’s a lot of work. David: There’s a whole magic to it. Yes, it’s a lot work. It’s making sure we get things right. Eli: Usually the simplest things in life are the most challenging to get good at. Q: Like in, say, cooking. Sometimes it’s the balance … David: Yes. It’s like making a cake. Any wrong ingredient can mess it all up. Eli: One of the things we say in the office is that it’s like a race car. You can have the best race car in the world, and like 99.9% of it is perfect. And there’s one screw that’s loose, and it explodes. So we always have to work together and be very on point. That’s what RtA (Road to Awe) stands for. A constant journey to better yourself. So every season we’re getting better, improving ourselves, and we’re adding more. David: Sometimes common sense isn’t so common. Q: What are some of your favorite silhouettes you incorporate into each collection? Eli: We always have a lot of higher wasted stuff, a little slouchy. There’s not a specific thing that we do. It’s more of an understanding and an idea of like look, “Your girl needs to feel this way. And feeling cool is better than looking pretty. Because a cool girl will always have that aura about her that you can’t describe.” David: Nine times out of 10, if a girl feels cool, she is cool.

If a girl feels cool, she is cool.

Eli: Evelyn, who you met, is our “cool girl” test. We’ll say, “What do you think, Evelyn?” And if she says yes, we’re good to go. Or, “No, I hate it.”

Evelyn is our “cool girl” test.

David: She’s our muse. Q: So it’s pretty much how you feel inside versus what you look like? David: It’s that confidence. Q: How do you feel your brand has evolved since you first began? Eli: It’s a crazy thing, because when we first started the brand we used a lot of denim and a lot of leather, because those two mediums are kind of endless. You can do anything with jeans, and you can do anything with leather. So the evolution has been opening up categories, taking the jeans and adding things that complement the look. That fur jacket that you’re going to wear with that cashmere sweater, those leather pants. Those are key magic words for girls. We have a men’s line as well, that we just launched at Barneys, and it’s really so different. Everyone’s always asking me, what’s the difference between men and women’s, and for me, men’s is reality, women’s is fantasy. With women’s there are no boundaries.

Men’s is reality, women’s is fantasy.

Q: What is the best part of being a fashion designer? What do you enjoy most about it? Eli: The best part about being in RtA is that we get to hang out with our best friends in the world. And we get to work together, and build something that’ll be here for a long time, and a lot of people will benefit from. David: We work with no restraints. We’re all best friends, we’re all family. There’s nothing really holding us down. If we want to do something it’s up for negotiation.

We’re all best friends, we’re all family.

Eli: Also, we look at the opportunity we’ve had to be in this kind of environment with the brand and the timing and this and that, we are so careful not to f*ck it up — sorry — because basically we are blessed. We spend more time at work than anywhere else. Q: It definitely didn’t fall from the sky, a lot of hard work. Eli: Well, maybe there’s a little sprinkling of fairy dust on top, but we definitely put in the hours, because we know what we have to lose. It’s not just about being unsuccessful. It’s losing the opportunity to work with your family. David: These days anyone can become relevant really fast. But it’s how you stay, and continue making making magic. That’s what we try to do.

These days anyone can become relevant really fast. It’s how you stay.

Learn More RtA (Road to Awe) RtA launched in the spring of 2014 by Eli Azran and David Rimokh. The brand is based in Los Angeles. RtA is sold at top retailers including Barney’s, Bergdorf Goodman, Elyse Walker, Hirshleifers, Intermix, Maxfield and Patron of the New, in the US, as well as numerous doors in Europe and Asia (Selfridges, Montaigne Market, Antonia, Restir, Club Designer). RtA’s Flagship store opened in January 2017 on Melrose Ave in Los Angeles, with Miami and New York opening later this year. The brand has gained a strong influencer following – Kendall Jenner, Gigi Hadid, Heidi Klum, Alessandra Ambrosio and Olivia Wilde are all fans. rtabrand.com With love, FWO

A Pattern of Success

We’re still thinking about Mondo Guerra’s stunning Fall Winter ’17 collection at Fashion Gallery during NYFW. If you’re thinking Guerra’s name sounds familiar, it’s because he placed second in the 8th season of Project Runway, going on to win Season 1 of Project Runway All Stars. Guerra’s FW17 collection served as a revival of what fans have been missing most about his collections — print, print, and more print! Guerra’s runway cast consisted of a diverse group of models, reflecting the progressive changes in the modeling world, and reflecting real people. The designer revealed how fun it was to work with such a diverse cast.

Guerra’s runway cast consisted of a diverse group of models.

Eila Mell of Fashion Week Online caught up with Guerra after his show to talk about his creative process, his appreciation for individuality, and his diverse modeling cast selection. Patterned on Life [portfolio_slideshow id=26743 align=center width=699 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] (Photos by Anna Bela)   Interview by Eila Mell Q: So, how long has this collection been in the works for you? Well, I didn’t go back for Christmas, so it’s been awhile. But I think I have to let ideas sit with me for awhile. They kind of haunt me. So, if I see something that reminds me of some other idea I’ve had, it’s kind of a sign. I really understand that about myself. So it’s probably been sitting with me since Thanksgiving.

When I start thinking about ideas, they kind of haunt me.

Q: You have a lot of fans. Do you feel like people have been waiting and waiting for you to show at fashion week? Oh, jeez! I think so. And I also think that a lot of people who appreciate my work have been waiting for me to do print again. Because there were a couple of seasons when I was doing all-black, all-white, and then I did all-navy … don’t ask me why I did that! I really wanted to get back into print, because I knew that’s what a lot of people wanted from me. But through this collection, I really understood myself, and I was really able to edit it back.

I really wanted to get back into print.

I realize for a lot of people, it might not have looked like I edited it, but there was a lot of editing down, and I really appreciate how it came out. When I knew I was going to show at New York Fashion Week, I was like, “So I’m a designer. How am I supposed to act? How am I supposed to react? How am I supposed to present this? What are people going to think?” And a couple of days ago, when I was in the studio by myself, really early in the morning, I remembered what my my mom always tells me. “Just be yourself and people will really understand what you’re doing.”

Just be yourself and people will really understand what you’re doing.

And I felt like tonight was proof of that. Q: Absolutely! I mean, you may not realize this, but people just love you so much. Thank you! And you know what, I love people, too. One of my favorite things about being in New York is being inspired by everybody’s individuality. I love to ride the subway and look at people. And just fantasize about what their story might be — you know, where they’re going, what they’re going to do. It’s just very inspiring. And bottomline, I think that’s what the collection is about. I sort of tease that my collection looks like the United Nations! I just have so many different kinds of people in my collection, so it was a lot of fun to cast.

My collection looks like the United Nations!

Q: It was so good! And that last model was so tall and gorgeous. Wow! Honestly, we didn’t do the lineup until they were lined up, and then we switched them around. And when I told her she was going to close the show, she was so excited! Q: It’s a big honor!   Yeah, it was a lot of fun. I like to see that excitement and the joy from the models as well. Q: And you even had models that weren’t so tall, which is nice to see. The “norms” of the modeling world are changing quite a bit, you know? And we’re able to present our work in a different way. Q: I think it’s great, and the collection was amazing, and we can’t wait to see more from you, Mondo! ## Learn More mondoguerra.com With love, FWO

Interview with Elizabeth Kennedy at NYFW

Elizabeth Kennedy has designed for some of the most recognized fashion designers in New York City, including Donna Karan, Isaac Mizrahi (she was head designer at 22!) and Max Mara. Kennedy epitomizes luxury with her signature dramatic evening gowns. Her collections are high-end, hand-crafted and absolutely stunning, so it’s no wonder that Kennedy has amassed a celebrity following with clients like Mindy Kaling, Mariah Carey, Drew Barrymore, Laverne Cox and Molly Sims. For her ready-to-wear Fall 2017 collection, Kennedy brought her A-game, showcasing a mix of her signature jaw-dropping evening gowns and debuting her take on dressy separates. Fashion Week Online‘s very own Eila Mell had the opportunity to chat with Kennedy and discuss Kennedy’s architectural creations and design aesthetic.   Interview by Eila Mell Q: So, congratulations on such a successful show!   Thank you so much! Thank you for being here. Q: What’s your starting-off point for a collection? Usually, you start off with some form of inspiration. This season I was really inspired by color, kind of unexpected combinations of color, which led me to my inspiration, which turned into exotic birds, essentially.

I was inspired by unexpected combinations of color.

A very loose, abstract interpretation of exotic birds. But it was really the color combinations, the proportions, the silhouettes, this ruffled detail, the bubbled silhouettes, and then obviously the embroidery, the feathers. Q: I love that the collection is nighttime, but it’s also very young and very hip. Thank you! Yes, my aesthetic has always been more graphic. I’m really drawn to clean lines, and I really like to use color and proportion, to express grandeur and glamour. This season, we’re actually introducing evening separates as well, which I think is very fresh, young and modern. Q: And you’re modeling that for us?   I am! I’m wearing wearing my evening suit! Q: It looks amazing on you!   Thank you! ## Learn More http://www.elizabethkennedy.com/ With love, FWO

(Video: Joe Loper of Guerilla Photography)

Interview with Kelly Dempsey of Rack Addik

Project Runway alum Kelly Dempsey recently debuted her FW17 collection at AMCONYC during New York Fashion week. The new collection was the latest from Rack Addik, her fashion-forward streetwear line (with some items already available for purchase online). Rack Addik’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection was constructed with intent to exist in a “world without labels.” Dempsey says, “I believe that real beauty is present once you are able to look at someone and view them without confinement.” FWO’s Melanie Sutrathada caught up with Dempsey backstage to ask her about the new collection. Q: How would you describe the collection in 3 words? Glitter and grunge. Q: What inspired this amazing glitter and grunge collection? What I love about the grunge era is that nobody gives a crap about anything. You know, I don’t believe in labels. I feel like when you put labels on things, it sort of constricts your creativity, and I really want to have a collection where — if I want to wear bright pink with black sparkle, sure — if I want to wear bell bottoms why not? Like who is going to tell me no. I wear what I want. So I sort of want to put that message out. You can do whatever the hell you want.

When you put labels on things, it sort of constricts your creativity.

Q: I have to say that that is so Kelly on so many levels. I think if you’ve seen her on TV, she’s got such a vivacious personality, and it really shows through in her clothes. I feel like everyone who wears your clothes is just having a ball of a time. Always fun. Q: What would you be doing if you weren’t a designer? I consider myself more of an artist than a designer. I love to make things and see it on the runway, it’s amazing. Q: This is your second collection show with AMCONYC. Can you tell me a little bit about the process of making it all happen? It was a little bit last-minute this season, which is always … what am I saying, it’s always like that. So running around crazy, but I feel like I do my best work last minute, pulling everything together, so I’m super excited to see how everything comes out. ## Learn More www.rackaddik.com www.amconyc.com With love, FWO