From New York to Milan, Fashion is Changing

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Behind the Scenes, Fashion is Changing

by Mandy Murphy

Just as fashion is constantly changing, the entire fashion industry itself is undergoing a transformation. Two big trends we have our eyes on here at Fashion Week Online are an uptick in interest in menswear, and a renewed appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship.

First, Quick News Roundup

If you’ve been following fashion news of late, you’ve seen the announcement that Scott Sternberg’s Band of Outsiders has disbanded. In other news, supposedly IMG is struggling to find a new automotive sponsor, but if there’s one thing the press can be relied upon, it’s to make much ado about little.

And in a little bit of brighter light, Victoria’s Secret’s live televised show will be returning to New York in 2015.

That’s the quick “fashion news roundup.”

Two Trends to Watch

But what’s happening behind the scenes?

First, we’re now witnessing the rise of menswear. Remember how not long ago, being a man who cared about clothing earned you the moniker “metrosexual” (a word that never really carried much meaning, except perhaps a shade of scorn)?

Not long ago, being a man who cared about clothing earned you the moniker “metrosexual.”

In 2015, “menswear fashion websites” like Mr. Porter are commonplace. Designers like Trina Turk have also made moves to capture the menswear market. At Turk’s site for men, the appropriately named “Mr. Turk,” beautiful Euro-styled swimwear is available for men who aren’t afraid to show a little skin.

But it doesn’t stop with retail. The CFDA is holding its first-ever menswear only shows this summer, to feature star menswear designers such as John Varvatos.

Milan, Paris and London already have dedicated “men’s fashion weeks” (actually lasting 3-5 days).

Our prediction is that more and more men will continue to catch the “fashion bug” in the United States (as they did many years ago in Italy, Paris and London). Dressing well won’t be an anomaly; increasingly it will be the norm. (And we don’t mean square-toed black shoes and poor-fitting blue button-downs.)

But that’s not the only change we’re seeing.

The second trend is a return to artisanal craftsmanship. Disturbing issues have been raised about the cruel effects of cheap “insta-fashion.” One of the solutions is renewed respect for hand-crafted clothing, which lasts longer and is also (not surprisingly), more beautiful.

One of the solutions is renewed respect for hand-crafted clothing, which lasts longer and is also (not surprisingly), more beautiful.

Films like Men of the Cloth explore the artisanal craftsmanship of yesteryear, while hinting at signs of its rebirth.

And if you think artisanal menswear is confined to suits and ties, witness edgy, handmade tailoring from an artist like Simone Cecchetto of A1923, or Boris Bidjan Saberi.

The future of fashion is being created now.

And as far as we can see, the future is bright.

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FWO

This Month’s Shopping Edit: Summer Dreamland

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THIS MONTH’S EDIT: SUMMER DREAMLAND

Summer is almost ‘pon us. That means splish-splashing and — for us — a bit of fantasy.

Enjoy this fun, dreamy edit, with some fun stuff for summer … plus a little fuel for dreaming.

NOTE: Use the little grey arrows (right-center of the collection), to see more.

With love,

FWO

Interview with Vivienne Tam at New York Fashion Week

Interview with Vivienne Tam

(The following is a transcription of a live-streamed interview webcast here on Monday, February 16, 2015.)

vivienne-tam-new-york-fashion-week-interview.jpg-300x184It’s been said Vivienne Tam’s clothing suggests “tolerance, global acumen, and a Fourth of July-faith in individual expression … [with] an idealistic globalism that transcends politics and offers a more enchanted, peaceful world.”

Born in Canton, China, Vivienne Tam moved to Hong Kong when she was three years old. Her bi-cultural upbringing in the then-British colony was the first stage in the development of her signature East-meets-West style.

After graduating from Hong Kong Polytechnic University, Vivienne Tam moved to New York where she thrived on the excitement and energy of the fashion world. New York became a home for her and a continuing source of stimulation for her designs.

[portfolio_slideshow id=11921 align=center width=599 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true]

Her Fall-Winter 2015 collection is an urban romantic take on “chinoiserie” — the European concept of China, sparked by its imagination of the mystical and exotic Far East.

The aesthetic is characterized by intricate designs that blend ornate European design with rich imagery from the East — lush renderings of birds, pagodas, boats, bamboos, bridges and more — and was iterated in mirrors, furniture, wall coverings, draperies and decorative art objects that dominated interior and fashion design.

This season, Vivienne Tam partnered again with Pandora, an official sponsor of New York Fashion Week. Fashion Week Online had a rare opportunity to go backstage and meet this charming, inspiring designer.

Q:What was the overall theme of this season’s show?

It’s all about urban romanticism: essentially in the 17th and 18th centuries, when Europe imagined China but hadn’t seen the country yet. It was all very mysterious and exotic. You’ll notice the Victorian spirit with the high necklines, but the designs are also futuristic, with the metal details and structure skirts. I think it’s a very powerful combination.

You’ll notice the Victorian spirit with the high necklines, but the designs are also futuristic.

Q:Your signature “East Meets West” aesthetics are considered a triumph in both the fashion and art realms. What do you think is the biggest factor in your success?

I guess just being myself and loving what I’m doing. I like the challenge of finding pieces that inspire me and incorporating it into my work and into the clothing, to make it wearable.

Q:So how do you balance commerce and creativity?

The challenge is always to create something artistic that is wearable. I try to make history into something new, by incorporating Eastern and Western cultures.

The challenge is always to create something artistic that is wearable.

Q:Do you have any pre-show rituals?
Just meditating this morning, like I do every day.

Q:Do you have any advice for aspiring designers?

Be yourself! And do what you love. You have to go with your heart and make sure your work represents you.

You have to go with your heart and make sure your work represents you.

With love,

FWO

VIVIENNE TAM
Website | Facebook | Twitter

FW15 VIVIENNE TAM

Paris Vs. New York Fashion Week

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Appelez le Chauffeur! No, I’ll Just Take a Cab.

by Mandy Murphy

Here’s an infographic that’s sure to be a classic. The Big 4 fashion weeks are book-ended by New York (which kicks off the season), and Paris (last of the season).

But what are some other key differences between the two? STYLIGHT’s Editor in Chief gives us her take, with this delightful graphic inspired by French Graphic Artist Vahram Muratyan. Thanks to Stylight.com for giving us a heads-up.

 
[portfolio_slideshow id=5627 width=”690″]

Enjoy! And check out the entire series at Stylight.com.

FWO

Bravo Versace!

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Versace Stuns with One of the Best Shows this Season … Or Any Season

As a fashion editor who watches a couple of hundred shows at a desk every fashion month, it’s rare that I find myself gushing the way I have since watching the Versace Fall / Winter 2015 show. When your girlfriend is tired of hearing you talk about a runway show, you know something has happened.

The show begins in what appears to be a darkened Chinese temple, and immediately explodes with a kind of sinuous, street-strutting, late-’70s disco Superfly-intensity. But taken as a whole, the collection effects what amounts to a mashup of multiple eras — late-’60s, ’70 and ’80s — and, almost as an afterthought, layers on an inspired cold fusion of East and West.

[portfolio_slideshow id=5550 width=”600″]

It’s the kind of collection that could only come from a life lived in fashion, as Donatella Versace surely has. And the almost obscene ease with which it seems to come together recalls the mastery of someone like Jimi Hendrix, achieving what would surely be impossible if not for the unmistakable presence of the Holy Spirit.

The almost obscene ease of the collection recalled the artistry of a master like Jimi Hendrix.

Here are knee-high boots from Swinging London, but backed with a black stripe, like the magnetized strip of a credit card. Giant Ming Dynasty belts accent mini-dresses with asymmetrical dropped hems, recalling late-’60s TV sci-fi chic. Mod-styled color-blocks channel a modern pan-Asian palette. Other dresses feature luminous, Tron-like stripes. And voluminous, dark, enveloping-yet-structured faux-fur ensembles are embellished by a single bronze Chinese medallion, shining through the dark like a cipher.

You might think all that was adventurous enough for one show. But apparently not. Later looks featured playful graphic elements that, combined with muted peacock patterns and plaids, seemed to synthesize Shoichi Aoki’s Harajuku with an unmistakably Italian alta moda sensibility.

The result? A show blazing with glamour: dangerous, confident, and cutting to the point of predation. Fashion with bit of playful fun. A look back. A move forward.

In short, everything — simply everything — fashion can be, and should be.

Unbelievable glamour: dangerous, confident and cutting to the point of predation.

FWO

Interview with Lubov Azria

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Interview with Lubov Azria

(The following is a transcription of a live-streamed interview webcast here on Thursday, February 12, 2015.)

by Julia Zeldin (with Emy Kane)

Lubov Azria new-york-fashion-week-interview.jpgA triumphant collection from BCBGMAXARIA reminds us that Max and Lubov Azria are masters of texture and color, as well as silhouette. And why they’ve created a global fashion empire that continues to surprise and delight.

According to the runway program, for Fall 2015, “BCBGMAXAZRIA RUNWAY journeys north from the vibrant city of Barcelona to the shores of the Baltic Sea. A visual feast of embroideries, textures and prints adorns the collection.”
[portfolio_slideshow id=8105 width=”400″ click=lightbox]

lubov-azria-interview-new-york-fashion-weekWe had the incredible opportunity to speak with the super-beautiful and charming Lubov Azria backstage. This is a transcription of the interview, live-streamed from backstage during Day 1 of New York Fashion Week.

Q: Thank you so much for giving me the opportunity to speak with you. I just wanted you to know we’re live-streaming this to our audience at FashionWeekOnline.com.

Oh, thank you for letting me know that! [laughs] No one actually ever tells me these things!

Q: You and Max have created a fashion empire over the past 25 years, congratulations! What’s the biggest change you’ve seen in the industry over the years?

I think just evolution: when you get to see trends go around every 7 years. I love that the ’70s trend is coming back this season and I’m always happy to see it return.

I love that the ’70s trend is coming back this season.

Q: In a recent interview with Elle magazine, you stated that Max is your “life mentor,” and that you’ve learned a lot from your relationship. What else do you think is a major factor in your success?

I think just loving what you do and knowing who you’re designing for; I love designing clothing that will make women feel beautiful!

I love designing clothing that will make women feel beautiful!

bcbg_new_york_fashion_week_fw15_17Q: What’s your favorite trend this season?

My favorite trends from this collection are all the beautiful outerwear that we’re doing; all the sweaters and capes with the boots. I think they pair very beautifully, in an effortless way.

Q: Is there anything you do to prepare for a show? Any rituals?

My team is so incredible, and they work so hard, that it’s great just to have them here! What I like to do with all the models beforehand is line them all up before they take off all the plastic on the runway and putting the lights on. I love taking it all in for a few minutes, because it’s 9 months of work for 10 minutes.

My team is so incredible, and they work so hard, that it’s great just to have them here! It’s 9 months of work for 10 minutes.

Q: What’s your favorite part of Fashion Week?
I’m looking forward to the Hervé Leger show after this! It’s a very “go go go” environment and the Hervé Leger team also worked really hard, so I’m looking forward to seeing the finished product. I’m also excited to go home and rest!

I’m also excited to go home and rest!

Thank you, Lubov Azria!

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BCBG
Website | Bon Chic Blog | Facebook | Twitter

 

SHOW CREDITS

SHOW DIRECTION
LYNNE O’NEILL

STYLIST
ELIZABETH CABRAL

CASTING
PATRIZIA PILOTTI

HAIR
ORLANDO PITA USING TRESEMMÉ®

MAKEUP
VAL GARLAND AND TEMPTU PRO TEAM

NAILS
OPI

MUSIC
LAURENT VACHER, LABTONIC

SET DESIGN
JONATHON BECK

SET CONSTRUCTION
BERNHARD LINK THEATRICAL

LIGHTING
IMCD LIGHTING

DRESSERS
QUICK / CHANGE ARTISTRY

UNDERGARMENTS
COMMANDO

MODELS

SOPHIA // DNA
SANNE // NYMM
DAHLIA // SUPREME
REBECCA M // SUPREME
DEIMANTE // ELITE
JADA // ELITE
CLEMENTINE // VNY
BARBARA C // NEXT
ISSA // MUSE
LAURA // VNY
REBECCA G // NEXT
ASTRID E // NEXT
ELISABETH // WILHELMINA
MANUELA // SOCIETY
KRISTINA // IMG
ALEX H // SOCIETY
STASHA // WOMEN
ANASTASIA // MC2
TAYLOR // IMG
IRINA // LIONS
YUMI // IMG
KELI // FORD
TAMI // ELITE
TAYA // NYMM

PLAYLIST

ALL SHOOK UP (LES PETROLES RMX)
ALL SHOOK UP (ALBUM VERSION)
BOTH WITH HELENA NOGUERRA WITH PERRY BLAKE

FWO

Victoria’s Secret Swimwear Coming to CBS All Access

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Victoria’s Secret Swimwear with Maroon 5


by Julia Zeldin

Get ready for a new Victoria’s Secret Special, shot on location In Puerto Rico, featuring all your favorite Victoria’s Secret Angels. Grammy Award-Winning Artists Maroon 5 and Juanes will perform. And you can see it free for a limited time on CBS All Access.

Grammy Award-winning artists Maroon 5 and Juanes will perform.

For the first time on network television, viewers will get a glimpse into Victoria’s Secret’s sexiest swim show of the year, THE VICTORIA’S SECRET SWIM SPECIAL, Thursday, Feb. 26 (10:00-11:00 PM, ET/PT), on the CBS Television Network. This new special follows the Angels as they land in Puerto Rico to shoot their swimwear campaign. With exclusive access to the models as they tackle jungle treks, underwater shoots and overcome personal fears, the special gives unique insight into their character and life stories. Joining them on the island to perform exclusively will be Grammy Award-winning artists Maroon 5 and Juanes.

Supermodels Adriana Lima, Candice Swanepoel, Lily Aldridge, Behati Prinsloo, Alessandra Ambrosio, Elsa Hosk, Martha Hunt, Jasmine Tookes, Stella Maxwell, Joan Smalls and Jac Jagaciak will talk about shooting in Puerto Rico, the significance of VS Swim to their lives and careers and what drives them.

victorias-secret-swim.jpgCapturing their first of three Grammy Awards as Best New Artist of 2005 and going on to sell more than 17 million albums worldwide, Maroon 5’s releases have gone gold and platinum in more than 35 countries. The band quickly won over fans and critics alike with the hybrid rock/R&B sound they introduced on their debut album, Songs About Jane and their double-platinum release, It Won’t Be Soon Before Long. In 2010, the band debuted their third studio album, Hands All Over, which featured the group’s anthemic chart-topping smash single “Moves Like Jagger.” The song has since gone on to become one of the best-selling singles of all time. Maroon 5’s last album Overexposed reinforced the group’s status as a powerhouse in popular music with all of its singles rising to the top of the charts and setting an all-time record for the most #1s (six in total) by a group in the Top 40 chart’s 20-year history. The group’s latest release, V, debuted at #1 on Billboard’s Top 200 chart and features the hit singles “Maps” and “Animals,” which just hit #1 on the Top 40 chart, and their new single, “Sugar.” On Feb. 16, Maroon 5 will embark on a world tour that kicks off at the American Airlines Center in Dallas and takes them all over North America and then Europe.

With seven solo albums to his credit and multi-platinum sales of more than 16 million copies, Juanes is the world’s leading all-Spanish language rock artist – both a two-time Grammy and 20-time Latin Grammy Award winner with nine #1 singles on Billboard’s Latin Singles charts. Hailed by the Associated Press as “the first truly international rock star to emerge from Latin America,” Juanes is also frequently recognized as one of the Spanish-speaking world’s leading social media voices with an online following of more than 19 million fans. The Colombian superstar’s dedication as a global activist also extends far beyond his passionate lyrics and is seen in his wide ranging charitable work for his own Mi Sangre Foundation and as a co-founder of the Paz sin Fronteras (Peace Without Borders) organization. Working with famed rock producer Steve Lillywhite, Juanes’ latest album, Loco De Amor, debuted at #1 on Billboard’s “Latin Pop Albums” chart and topped iTunes sales in more than a dozen countries. In addition to already winning a Latin Grammy Award, Loco De Amor holds a current Grammy Award nomination for Best Latin Pop Album. The new year has also seen the release of Juanes’ latest single, “Juntos (Together),” recorded for the new Disney movie “McFarland USA.”

THE VICTORIA’S SECRET SWIM SPECIAL is being produced by done and dusted, inc. Edward G. Razek, Ian Stewart and Hamish Hamilton are the executive producers. Hamish Hamilton is the director.

Watch The Show Here

FWO

Watch London Collections: Men, Autumn-Winter 2015

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London Collections: Men AW15 is Here!

 

by Julia Zeldin

Getcher menswear on!

Yep, it’s time once again for the dapperest duds from across the pond, and the world at large. This is London Collections: Men, a visual compendium of the snappiest looks from some of the planet’s top menswear designers.

And for New York Fashion Week, we have a new interactive app!

For even more fashionable catwalk-watchin’, stay tuned for New York Fashion Week, happening LIVE February 12, 2014.

You can even watch it on our app! Whuuuuh?

Watch London Collections: Men here.

 
FWO
 

History and Facts About Milan Fashion Week

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History and Facts About Milan Fashion Week

If you love storied designers from the same country that spawned a master tailoring industry unrivaled anywhere else in the world, you will probably fall in love with Milan Fashion Week.

There are famous and emerging designers (many of whom are promoted by the Italian Chamber of Fashion) plenty of shows, great collections, and it gives you a chance to socialize as well as interact with your favorite designers. Most people have admitted getting their idea on the latest and upcoming trends simply by checking out the street style during MFW.

The History of Milan Fashion Week

There is what is called the “Big Four Fashion Weeks” and this fashion week is a part of them. Since the year 1958, Milan Fashion Week has been taking place semi-annually with a women and a men’s fashion week. The other 3 fashion weeks includes; The London, Paris and the New York. The National Chamber of Italian Fashion otherwise known as Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana is responsible for partially organizing the event.

The Dates for the Fashion Week in Milan

Every September, February, January and June, the cobblestoned streets of Milan turn into catwalk runways. There are all manner of fashions that you could ever imagine being showcased. For Women and men’s spring/ summer fashion shows, they take place in September and June respectively. The Fall/Winter shows are in February for women and in January for men.

Do I Need an Invite to Attend the Fashion Week?

It depends on various things. Although there are outdoor events which are free to the public, there are other shows that you will need to have an invite. You can get a sneak peek in others though. If you do not get a chance to attend a show that you wanted, you can pre-register for an after party which guarantees an amazing experience with other fashionistas, celebrities, and designers.

Where Do the Shows Take Place?

You can say it basically takes place everywhere in the cobblestoned streets of Milan. There are individual shows as well. Although some fashion shows take place in outdoor landmarks and historic areas, there are standard showrooms and studios. Milan’s central square known as Piazza Duomo, Castello Sforzesco courtyard which dates back to the 15th century and at Arco della Pace in Parco Sempione are some of the places where the public can experience the fashion shows.

What Are Some of the Famous Designers to Showcase at Milan Fashion Week?

Major fashion houses and designers showcase in the fashion week. They include; Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Missoni, John Richmond, Roberto Cavalli, Prada, Versace, Armani and Jil Sander among others. It is not all about famous brands, but the upcoming ones get a chance to showcase what they have in store. Cristiano Burani, Stella Jean, Francesco Scognamiglio, Marco De Vincenzo and Au jour le jour has gotten a chance to present at Milan’s fashion week.

Whether you need to attend fashion shows or you just want to walk around and see what happens, you are in for a big treat. You need to book your hotel in advance as it gets overcrowded. The spirit of Milan is amazing. The complete information about the locations and the shows can be accessed months before it takes place.

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Milan Fashion Week 2017 / 2018 Highlights

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Fall / Winter Milan Fashion Week 2017 was held at the end of February 2017, and we’re still talking about many of the show-stopping pieces. Here are just a few of the highlights from Milan.

1.Moschino

Jeremy Scott’s show always comes with a shock. Jeremy Scott is known for having a tongue-in-cheek style, and it was clearly on display this year. The pieces in the Milan Fashion Week show for Moschino looked like they were made from cardboard boxes, bubble mailers, and other items that you receive online shopping orders in. This was a fun show, and it had a lot to say about what we order online.

2. Emporio Armani

Vinyl coating is back, and was a major highlight of the Emporio Armani show. The show opened with a monochrome Prince of Wales check, polka dot, and chevron on PVC. There were many over-sized coats and suits during the show, and sequin embroidery and floral prints followed.

3.Roberto Cavalli

This year’s collection was divided into two collections: white and black, because there were two runways. The white runway had a backdrop of a wall of fragrant of fresh white roses. The black runway had a similar backdrop but used red roses. This collection used many skillful techniques, including appliqué, beaded embroidery, and plissé.

4. Prada

The Prada runway took us back to the 1960s and ’70s. There were corduroy flared pants, leather patchwork jackets, and hand-knitted scarves. Prada’s show-stopping piece was a feather, hemmed cocktail dress in mint. Prada is a brand that knows how to dress the female body, without looking over-the-top. Nothing in this collection looked out of place.

5. Max Mara

Max Mara is a fashion house that is known for creating amazing coats and luxury wardrobe classics. Under the new line of coats were many knits, velvet skirts, and well-tailored trousers. We also saw the return of teddy bear shearling capes and coats. Monotone outfits were seen on every model, which helped show off the fabrics.

6. No. 21

Alessandro Dell’Acqua chose Oscar winner Anna Magnani as an inspiration. The show opened with an amazing chiffon red dress, and a herringbone suit followed. The skirts and coats were dusted with some crystals and studs. There seemed to be a nod to American fashion with baseball trims on many of the pieces.

7. Bottega Venta

Coats featured prominently on a lot of runways during Milan Fashion Week, and the Bottega Venta show was no different. There were many jackets and coats made from cashmere, and the cuts of suit jackets were more masculine. The runway was a mixture of mustard, camel, tangerine, and terra cotta colors. The highlight of this show was the dresses that were embellished with metal threading.

Milan Fashion Week Fall 2017 was full of amazing designers, runway shows, and unforgettable pieces. It will be interesting to see what pieces make a move from the runway to our closets.

And stay tuned, because spring Milan Fashion Week 2018 will be next, September 20 – 26, 2017.

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