The Emperor’s New Collection: Revisiting Tommy’s “Old Navy” Moment

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Blurred Lines

tommy-gigi-ss17A long time ago — we think it may have been the late ’90s — some important lines in our culture got blurred.

Musicians started looking suspiciously like models; and attention from the media for simply being attractive, in a familiar sort-of way — or simply behaving badly — became a curious form of recognition.

Around this time — as marketers realized it was easier to churn out the familiar than look for rare talent — success increasingly became a measure of how many people were reached, rather than the quality of the thing doing the reaching, or the message itself.

Success became a measure of how many people were reached

In terms of marketing, of course, it’s eminent common sense. And it’s a movement fueled by bean-counters, and the greed of backers and stockholders and board members. And at the psychological level, it’s based on immaturity unchecked: that toddler-holdover-idea that if you can have two dollars — rather than one dollar — you should have two dollars: even if you were having a perfectly good life with the first dollar.

if you can have two dollars — rather than one dollar — you should have two dollars

And even if — in the process of acquiring the second dollar — you become a bit miserable, or produce a lower form of dialogue.

As a result, reaching the greatest common denominator became paramount, and that meant creating adrenaline spikes: whether those spikes were achieved through hyper-sexuality — the marketing equivalent of high fructose corn syrup; or becoming an entertainer with the antics of a 5-year-old; or in churning out clothes, and then lining up sycophants to create a feeding frenzy based — not so much about the food on offer, mind you — but upon the frenzy itself.

reaching the greatest common denominator become paramount

Such it is with the latest collection from Tommy Hilfiger. Is it a terrible collection? No. It’s hard to dislike a cotton “band jacket” that recalls Hendrix’s Prussian officer’s pelisse. Even if — as many frenzied purchasers will probably soon realize — it’s fated to spend most of its time in the closet. (Unless you’re in a band, in which case you really need to rock that out.)

It’s hard to dislike a cotton “band jacket” that recalls Hendrix’s Prussian officer’s pelisse.

But ultimately, a flat collection — that looks like something from Old Navy — reminds us that we live in a world fueled mainly by dollars and decimal points: and fueled by a kind of collective madness.

After all, when profit matters most, the lowest common denominator wins.

And when it comes to fashion, even if the emperor’s clothes aren’t quite real, they’re still available for sale.

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Kye @ VFILES: Do Androids Dream of Electric Chic?

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#Sad

vfiles-kye-nyfw-leadIf, one day, we all live on space stations — or in cyberpunk super-cities as envisioned by William Gibson or Philip K. Dick — we’ll probably be dressed up in KYE.

The show happened at Mercer Street: home to the cobblestone streets where hipster kids and fashion hypebeasts casually stroll, while paparazzi scoop up the best of the best street style photos.

Mercer Street is also home to VFiles, the ultra-hip showroom “boutique” where designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye launched her latest collection.

And what a collection. KYE delivered a brilliant, wearable streetwear line with clean silhouettes, tasteful color-blocking, and smart, relaxed layering. Teal, bright red, mustard, and blue were used with materials such as mesh, silk, and various jerseys. The jewelry collection was in collaboration with Korean brand Vintage Hollywood.

The futurism — or perhaps present-ism — of Kye’s collection is said to pay homage to our self-publicized selves: our carefully constructed, 2D doppelgänger that inhabits social media, disguising any hint of alienation or loneliness. But although grand ideas often exist to disguise a lackluster collection, in the case of Kye, the collection rides above the big ideas by creating an authentic space of its own in the 3D continuum of couture.

The collection rides above the big ideas by creating an authentic space

 
Tomorrow Couture
 
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Attendees included fashion stylist and model Aleali May, model Jordyn Woods and model-slash-cool-girl DJ Callie Reiff. Chilled Babe Rosè was served to sip on while browsing the studded, pop art collection.

The collection proves Kye is a force to be reckoned with.

And VFILES always comes correct.

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Learn More

kyefashion.com

With love,

FWO

In the Land of Eternal Spring: Rosenthal Tee SS17

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Rosenthal Tee’s NYFW Debut

photo-13-09-2016-2-25-09-pmFashion lovers anxiously wrapped around Pier59 to see Filipino designer Rosenthal Tee. The lights dimmed, and a parade of light, yet structured bridal and ready-to-wear pieces ensued. Monochrome ensembles in white, light blue, and mint green graced the stage with floral, lace, and fringe accents.

 
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(Photos: AUC Fashion Event Images)

A recent graduate of London campus of Istituto Marangoni, Tee has quickly become a rising star by creating strong pieces for women, balancing structure with feminine details. Her label embodies the designer’s free spirit and adventure; indeed, the Manila native has studied and worked in Asia and Europe. Now her journeys have brought her to New York Fashion Week.

Tee has quickly become a rising star

The show’s luxurious pieces can easily translate from street style to an elegant evening ensemble. As much as we’re ready to put on our jackets and boots in anticipation of fall, Rosenthal Tee makes us beg for next spring.

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Learn More

rosenthaltee.com

With love,

FWO

Fashion Future: Powered by Samsung | Part 1

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Excerpt from an interview with Samsung VP Ron Gazzola and FTL Moda Founder Ilaria Niccolini

T
he future of fashion retail is a lot closer than you may think.

Let’s imagine a scenario.

A shopper finds an outfit she likes, from a website viewed on her Samsung Galaxy tablet. She clicks it, and it says “VIP Parking Space Reserved.” She drives to a retailer, where Samsung GPS directs her to a custom parking space — reserved just for her — at a retail location. She enters the store, and sees a Samsung display where she can try on outfits in virtual reality. She orders directly from the display, since only some outfits are in stock at the location. It tells her the items will be delivered to her home in 24 hours, then prints a coupon for her to get a free coffee at a coffee chain, as a small reward.

Sound farfetched? It’s a future that may not be far off, thanks to Samsung’s emergence in the fashion and retail industries. Some of the first — and most exciting — forays into this new world are Samsung’s new mirrored displays, which allow users to “try on” outfits.

Some of the most exciting forays into this new world are Samsung’s new mirrored displays …

The technology may seem futuristic, but it’s already here. Samsung’s new mirrors are 55″ tall, and can be placed in walls, for a true Jetsons / Star Trek-worthy experience.

To get an insight into the displays — and where Samsung plans to expand next — we spoke with Samsung Vice President Ron Gazzola, responsible for directing the marketing, sales, and product development strategies of the company’s Display and Memory categories.

We also spoke with FTL Moda Founder Ilaria Niccolini.

They recently collaborated with Next Artists and Fashion Week Online to bring a one-of-a-kind NYFW experience to the September runways.

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Ronald Gazzola, VP, Samsung display:
The idea of developing a mirror display for the fashion industry is all about how to create a digital, dynamic, and engaging experience for the fashion industry … for retailers using a mirror display, and creating that one-on-one interactivity between the customer and consumer.

Ilaria Niccolini, Producer FTL Moda:
What we want to do is improve the world a little bit, one step at a time. When we partner with a brand like Samsung and a partner like Fashion Week Online — where we have the opportunity to provide service, content, and the right communication tool to an extended audience like the world — this is really fantastic.

Full interview — and more information about Samsung’s plans for the marketplace — to come.

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Oday Shakar’s NYFW Debut

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Oday Shakar Makes NYFW Debut for SS17

os-headshotRed carpet-worthy gowns are Oday Shakar’s specialty. And indeed, he’s already dressed celebrities such as Sandra Bullock. But his road to NYFW has been a long one.

Shakar was born to parents who fled Iraq during Saddam Hussein’s regime, and consequently he was raised in Anaheim Hills, Southern California. At 12, he and two siblings were sent to Baghdad to reconnect with their heritage. The contrast was jarring, but it was only one of several shocks to come. A serious health scare followed in 2008, after which he threw himself even more passionately into his work.

He officially launched his brand in 2009, and found himself in the spotlight when Sandra Bullock wore one of his designs at the 2010 MTV Movie Awards.

Most recently, his journey brought him to New York, for his New York Fashion Week debut.

Q: You’ve had such an amazing journey, from Anaheim, CA, to Iraq, and now to New York. How do you think the things you’ve seen and experienced have influenced your conception of beauty in general, and fashion in particular?

I think if anything it’s taught me the importance of diversity, and to always appreciate what you have, because there are people less fortunate in the world.

I find beauty in things that others may not think would be beautiful. It’s also finding the beauty in the unexpected.

I like to find beauty in the unexpected.

 
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Q: You’re a fan of Roy Halston. Do you also like Naeem Khan, a fellow student of Halston? What designers do you look up to?

Yes, I am. I’ve had the honor of attending two of Naeem Khan’s shows in my life, and his textiles are stunning. His use of color and fabric is vibrant and fluid. He is one I look up to for sure, as well as others such as Elie Saab.

I look up to Naeem Khan and Elie Saab.

Q: How did your health crisis affect your life and art?

It’s influenced me by finding joy in life because life is so precious. It’s propelled me to spend my energy on what matters most, such as designing, as it makes me happy.

Oday Shakar Spring/Summer : 2017 Runway ShowQ: What was your first experience at NYFW like? Was it like you expected? How and how not?

It was wonderful! Everything I could ask for and more, due to the most amazing team and all the people involved.

Q: How did your celebrity clients find out about you? What has been your journey in terms of marketing your brand, and getting it out there?

Through stylists that I know. I have partnered with the HL Group, they have done an outstanding job, and I look forward to expanding with their LA office.

HL Group has done an outstanding job.

Q: Tell us about your first NYFW collection in terms of theme and inspiration.

The inspiration is a blend of two cultures; I am American of Iraqi parents. I was born and raised in the USA, but moved to Iraq at a young age. I was inspired by both of these cultures that happen to be mine.

Q: Will you come back to NYFW, or is it too soon to think about?

Absolutely, I am already thinking about the next show!

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Learn More

odayshakar.com

With love,

FWO

Seville Row: Spanish Undercurrents at Barbara Tfank SS17

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Todo es de Color

1_becca_dsf1003After dressing First Lady Michelle Obama and remaining a designer of note in New York since 2001, Barbara Tfank probably needed a well-deserved vacation. Visiting the ancient city of Seville in Spain brought her a tide of new ideas.

For her SS17 collection, a host of beautiful and intricate designs glittered before modern art pieces at Leila Heller Gallery in Chelsea — as eye-catching as the art and architecture that inspired them.

Andalucían Style

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In speaking with the designer, it was clear that certain art pieces and locations made their way to her creative process in a charming homage. Several of the fabrics were made in Spain and she subtly borrowed from art, tile work, and architecture to represent Seville — certainly a Herculean task. But as Barbara said, “it’s a wink and a nod.”

Gesturing to a black and white rose-patterned dress, she dreamily mentions the gardens of Spain, replete with bountiful roses. Many of the dresses borrow from the tiles in the Moorish palaces, the accents a nod to the gold of mosaics or domes.

She dreamily mentions the gardens of Spain …

The references don’t cease with the environment of Seville — the influential art pieces of the 17th century artist Francisco de Zurbarán, known as the “Spanish Carvaggio,” immensely intrigued Tfank. Paying tribute to the master’s illusionist style and richness of color, Tfank created structured pieces of delectable design. Using fabrics like silk, cotton, and taffeta, the graceful textiles of the dresses are as smooth as oil on canvas.

The dresses are as smooth as oil on canvas.

The voluminous sleeves and quiet elegance of these pieces are the kind of style and panache we’ve come to expect from a designer like Tfank. She does not fail in producing effortless (or seemingly effortless) class, despite fashion’s new motto of “anything goes.”

In an age of constant progress, the reflection upon a rich and multifaceted past is less a bore than it is a refreshing repose, a spin in one of Seville’s sunny gardens.

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Learn More

btfank.com

With love,

FWO

That’s the Way We Like It: Son Jung Wan SS17

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Son Jung Wan SS17 NYFW

look-1jpgExploration of the ’70s — with all its wild color combinations and blending of drab and fab — is hardly a new theme in recent seasons. But — as we’ve seen in some notable flops that capture the worst of the era, rather than its promise as a reinvention — it takes a talent to do it well.

Son Jung Wan’s SS17 collection makes it work more often than not, with flared silhouettes and fun combinations that take us to the Studio 54 dance floor by way of sequins (which we expect) but also flowered appliques, candy stripes, and even houndstooth.

 
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Flared silhouettes and fun combinations take us to the Studio 54 dance floor.

Her cohesive collection had jumpsuits, requisite (we hope) Halston style bias-cut dresses, and lots of layers.

If you’re going to add your own voice to the ’70s conversation, this is the way to do it: with enough style and originality to make it worth watching.

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Learn More

sonjungwan.com

With love,

FWO

The Real Thing: Maison the Faux NYFW SS17

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Wearable Art at Maison the Faux SS17

MAISON THE FAUX SPRING SUMMER 2017Probably not many of us are going out with nipples exposed. And yet, taken individually, many of the Maison the Faux looks were imminently wearable: even if playfully outrageous.

Models were styled to look as if they were going to a 1980s after-hours club. There was no shortage of skin showing, and most models were androgynous. The makeup by Yuui Vision for Make-Up Studio was especially beautiful. I loved the theatrics of this show, and appreciated the concept: of unquenchable desire for more.

Maison The Faux

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Many of the Maison the Faux looks were imminently wearable.

The collection featured an assortment of great suits for men and women. The coats were also superb. My personal favorite was a pair of heels that had pillows that read “faux.” (I need to find out where to get those ASAP.)

The show was a fun departure from what I usually see during fashion week, and I’m already looking forward to seeing what Maison the Faux does next.

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With love,

FWO

The NEXT Big Thing: Next Artists’ Party at FTL Moda with Samsung

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Fashion Week Online NYFW Closing Party

Very possibly, the only thing better than fashion week … is spending fashion week in the company of family and friends.

Fortunately, those attending the NEXT ARTISTS‘ BEAUTY LOUNGE — held at The Shows by FTL Moda — were able to savor the best of two of life’s most wonderful luxuries.

The lounge was held at FTL Moda’s NYFW venue, Space 404, and live-streamed on Fashion Week Online to a LIVE audience of 18,000 watchers: part of FWO’s audience of half-a-million unique people for the season. (Replay to come!)

The live stream, produced by FTL Moda in conjunction with Samsung, was hosted by David Lopez, the Brand Ambassador of T3 Hair Tools, and FWO’s own Melanie Sutrathada.

An amazing risotto station was organized by Urbani Truffles, and furnishings were provided by Kartell.

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Host David Lopez

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Host Melanie Sutrathada

Guests included Kristy Watson of Erno Laszlo, Sara Happ of Sara Happ cosmetics, Natalie Gonzalez, Sr. Photo Producer at Victoria’s Secret, Hannah Salkovitz, Production Coordinator at Camuto Group, Carole Radzwill, author & cast member of Real Housewives of New York City, Caroline Salvia, founder of Sloosh Boots, Adrienne Ho, Next Model and fashion influencer, Corinne Andrews, Photo Shoot Coordinator at Adore Me, Lexii Gil, Producer at Splashlight, Susan O’Gorman of Distinctive Apparel, Lindsay Pogash, Photo Studio Manager at KOMAR, Kerrie Cline of GQ, Sasha BarTur of GQ Magazine, Faith Kates & Fallon Kogan (owners of Next Models), Dorenna Newton, Executive Video Producer at GQ, Abi O’Donnell, Account Director at Sunshine Sachs PR, Rachel Truehart, Ralph Lauren photo producer and finalist on ABC’s The Bachelor (Season 16) & Bachelor Pad (Season 3), Alyssa Clare Hoersten, Art Director at Nicole Miller, Next Model Marloes Horst, Next Model Daniela Braga (with boyfriend Ryan Leslie), Carla Isabel Carstens, Director of VIP & Sponsorship at Krupp Group, Anita Alvarez (USA Synchronized Swimming Duet, Rio 2016 Olympians, two-time Olympian), Next Model Astrid Baarsma, Next Model Zuzzana Bijoch, Next Model Egle Tvirbutaite, Next Model Suzanne Dia, Next Model Hind Sahli, Next Model Lini Kennedy, Ashley Parker, Editorial Director of Fashion Times, Christina Cotronis, Director of Photo Shoot Production at Nine West, Beverley Canepari and Lora Karam of Unlocking Litchfield, Alexander Duckworth, President/COO of Point One Percent Marketing/Advertising, Maddie Press of Point One Percent, blogger Maria Martins, Lisa Panke of Fashiola.com, FWO team members Julia Zeldin and Emily Burnette, FTL Moda founder Ilaria Niccolini, Samsung’s Dianne LaGuardia, and Pablo Starr, publisher of Fashion Week Online, Savion James Marcelle of Next, Simona Abaton of Abaton fragrances, Sabrina Nortanicola of URBANI Truffles, Giorgio Ricci of Kartell design … among MANY others!

Chinotto beverages were provided by Lurisia, Chinotto luxury fragrances were supplied by Abaton.

The People

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The Scene

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Beautiful View from FTL Moda

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Needless to say, everyone had a wonderful time with old friends, while making some new friends along the way.

#NYFW doesn’t get any better than this.

And it’s all thanks to our supporters and sponsors.

With Thanks To

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bodyography_logo cryosphere-final_logo2-black T3_New_Logo
 
Special Thanks To

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Share the Love

@NextArtists @NextModels @FahionWeekOnline @FTLModa @Ernolaszlonyc @Nestfragrances @Livingproofinc @Ardell_lashes @TheWhisperingAngel @Spikedseltzer @SaraHappInc @Farmhousefresh @Skinnycoconutoil @Zoyanailpolish @OccMakeup @MimosaFloral @SootheApp @silknsolution @bodyographyusa @Darkhorsewine @pinrosescents @ernolaszlonyc @thecryosphere @t3micro @keratincomplex

With love,

FWO

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Raiding the Closet: Georgine Channels “Glam Grunge” for SS17

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Trash-Talking in High Style

NEW YORK FASHION WEEK
 
For Spring/Summer 2017, Georgine Ratelband, designer of GEORGINE, was inspired by the type of girl who shops at Bergdorf Goodman and Trash & Vaudeville.

“I think it’s a more interesting concept of dressing,” said the designer. “Luxury goods coexist with rock t-shirts; intricate couture beading meets motorcycle jackets; and lightweight furs are punctuated by combat boots.”

Ratelband also drew inspiration from the way young women pilfer the closets of their mothers. Specifically, Frances Bean Cobain and Zoe Kravitz came to mind, who have mothers with the most incredible closets.

 
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The looks mixed edgy glamour with teenage rebellion-chic, combining Kravitz’ latter-day Superfly style with post-grunge glam, in fun fur coats, spiderweb lace, and metallic motos.

The result? A streetwear collection that’s varied, fun, and imminently wearable. Want to transition from fine dining to raising ruckus?

Georgine is your designer.

Want to transition from fine dining to raising ruckus?

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With love,

FWO