Leonard Paris Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Leonard Paris Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

Represented by DM Media PR.

Polynesia’s lush flora contrasted with mathematical rigor: harmonious oppositions lead the way in Leonard’s Spring-Summer 2018 collection, which explores the tension between nature and nurture, instinct and education, control and pleasure.

The show opens with masculine tailoring, streamlined pea jackets, reworked raincoats, structures outlined in white, layered with stripes and floral prints. The garments are gradually deconstructed. Overcoats and parka jackets come with shawl collars or kimono cuts.

 
Leonard Paris Paris Fashion Week

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Like the sails of boat inflated by sea winds and held back by ropes, oversized dresses give a sense of control and letting go.

An orchid, this collection’s figurehead, is graphic, multicolored, printed on silk lamé, scintillating like the reflections of waves on humid sand.

The color palette is equally escapist, ranging from sunny yellow to cheeky orange, vibrant pink, ocean blue, frothy white, emerald green, and mother-of-pearl metallic tints. Jewerly made out of large juxtaposed pearls underline the body’s articulations.

Geometrical blossom or sensual architecture, this subtle equilibirum runs like a golden thread throughout the collection.

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With love,

FWO

Liselore Frowijn Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Liselore Frowijn

Tlead

Twenty energetic looks where shown on the gallery’s damier floor where Liselore Frowijn’s daring universe was fully immersed with the upright columns: freedom can be a powerful tool of independence.

FROWIJN took us on a dry archeological journey deep into Mexico, reminding us all of the vibrant country’s overpowering beauty. She referred to the Maya’s ancestral culture and took references from nature, buildings and pyramids for their size and decoration. She used hope as the weapon for creation; the rotatory printed cactus created in collaboration with graphic designer Michiel Schuurman literally symbolizes this hope.

“The collection is a an intensive homage to the country of Mexico. In March this year I went on a research trip there and met many locals who proudly showed me their traditional arts and crafts. My new collection is an ode to freedom generally, and to Mexico specifically, with elements of its cultural history and hopes for a bright future interwoven throughout”

The collection’s motto of hope is to keep Mexicans shinning as they call themselves “People of the Sun”, bringing up a critical reflection on the current threats the country suffers by oppressing not the entire culture, but also blocking its creative instincts.

 
Liselore Frowijn

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FWO

Manish Arora Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

Manish Arora Paris Fashion Week

Represented by Totem Fashion.

The start of the show offered something far more delicate than we’re used to seeing from Arora. The soft and wispy hippie emerged in soft bohemian prints fit for a flower child who enjoys lounging around in tall grass fields.

Silhouettes remained conscious of the figure, though remained relaxed and wind-sweeping, and capable of holding up elegant embroidery and rainbows on silk, all at once.

fit for a flower child who enjoys lounging around in tall grass fields

I love how the designer graduated the bomber jacket for us, and made it look far more elegant and in neoprene for structure, comfort and easier to embellish. True to habit of the bomber, however, he kept the ribbed cuffs for that cool varsity edge. The use of neoprene really makes the collection utilitarian, considering the cool spring days and the high heat of summer; not to mention its water-friendly features.

 
Manish Arora Paris Fashion Week

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As the collection matured, we were made aware of the designer’s true intentions. That is, more of the strong prints, textured fabrics, and thick layers of shiny things. Naturally, this season’s signature was the sequin, used in a great chevron arrangement on too-cool bomber jackets, and even a fabulous gown that looked to come right out of a ’70s cartoon wonderland.

On the accessories front, the designer blessed the models with chain-fringed shoes, fur detailing and feathers galore, and didn’t quite stop there, either. Thin chained necklaces were draped around every model’s Amy Winehouse beehive updo, recalling that the love is in the details, and this free spirit considers every last detail.

This collection was designed for the young jet-setting woman living an elegant life but has a playful side and has no intentions of hiding it. She doesn’t like a fuss but wants no boring looks. She’s not quite ready to grow up. This is why the denim patchwork revival of the ’70s and ’90s is so attractive and appropriate! With playful slogans and bright glittery patches, who would dare resist?

designed for the young jet-setting woman living an elegant life

Later on, to close the collection, a couple of more serious looks were sent out, for those moments in which our lady needs to reemerge and mingle into the typical day-to-day. A more traditional Indian aesthetic was used with sari-like midi dresses worn under denim jackets, giving traditionally dressed Indian girls some encouragement and others more room to experiment. Is it cultural appropriation when we get a green light from Manish Arora?

Considering the blend of Middle Eastern motifs and Western bohemian style, I think the designer was playing at something bigger, blurring the lines of a country’s apparel identity, and advertising the intermingling of global cultures that lives right before us, every single day.

advertising the intermingling of global cultures that lives right before us

There was one particular orange cocktail dress intelligently designed with a capelet over the shoulders which made me want to wear it myself. The Indian embroidery was so stand-out and beautiful, I think everyone was pleased. Another piece I just loved was an elegant pink wrap skirt with bold, contrasting embroidery slightly tucked away for expectant eyes only. Then there was a particular tank that screamed Instagram ready, made of hand patches held together in an assortment of arrangements and held together by metal rights, showing a little skin and personality. I expect to see that tank all over the ‘gram by May.

The array of inspiring factors for this collection would lead one to think it could be poorly executed. The designer used Navajo, Indian, Aztec and Middle Eastern references, as well as American culture, and yet it came together so beautifully. With intention and determination, we see the complexities that stem from living in a modern world with travel and technology defining what our individual cultures are, all through clothing.

The collection took inspiration from close friend and muse, Noor Fares. The Manish Arora muse is not afraid to live, and her clothes are an extension of her personality. She will refuse conformist views, and lives her life as she pleases. Wherever she goes.

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With love,

FWO

APHID Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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APHID Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

Represented by The Lobby London.

Spring Summer 2018 is a continuation of the Aphid graphic handwriting the brand is known for whilst embracing structure, innovative construction and conceptual cuts. This combined with signature dark colourways are punctuated with saturated bright accents.

For SS18 fabrication is kept deliberately and unexpectedly light. Deconstructed and frayed textured fabrics and hemlines provide surface detail whilst complimented the gathered textiles seen through asymmetric conceptual tailoring with a unique, soft structure. The technical pattern cutting propels the brand forward, generating beautiful one off pieces in the form of asymmetric wraps, drapes and unlikely suspensions.

 
APHID Paris Fashion Week SS18

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Bull and Starling’s references extend from Harley Weir’s ‘Home’ photo collection to the sculpture of Robert Morris, the processes exhibited in Brancusi’s studio and the textures of Franco Mazzucchelli’s interior installations. Clear examination of the theme of deconstruction and reformation subject us to an experience of newness in what has come before then taking these ideologies apart and reshaping.

About APHID

APHID is a British designer brand helmed by Bernadette Bull and Carl Starling, launched in 2016. Having collaborated together for almost a decade managing a successful private label business, they executed a long time vision of launching their own line of contemporary, conceptual womenswear inspired by a female archetype they identified with, that they couldn’t reach with their private label designs.

APHID is rooted in the natural world – named after strictly female insect colonies, who reproduce perfect replicas of themselves without the need for males. APHID create clothes that represent strength, power and confidence via beautifully sculpted, strong silhouettes, premium and unexpected fabrics and the use of specially developed techniques. With this in mind and as a starting point for the brand, they wanted to create clothes that embody this persona, to be worn with confidence yet versatile enough to be worn anywhere. APHID is founded on the premise of exploring form and framing the contrast between an intriguing penchant for darkness and a person’s individual light.

Bernadette Bull graduated from Heriot-Watt University in Edinburgh with a degree in Textiles and Fashion Design and Carl Starling graduated in fashion design from Arts University Bournemouth, winning a sponsorship from Swarovski for Graduate Fashion Week. Both have worked in numerous independent British brands and companies before joining forces in 2009.

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aphidlondon.com

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FWO

Sachin & Babi Spring 2018: NYFW Bridal

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Sachin & Babi Bridal Fashion Week New York

This season, Sachin & Babi held their Fall Winter 2018 collection at their flagship store on the Upper East Side. The team transformed the flagship into bridal heaven. The presentation was intimate, and gave the guests the chance to see the designs up close and personal, all while interacting with Sachin & Babi themselves.

When I asked Sachin about the inspiration for the collection, he led me over to a wall covered in oversized flower wallpaper. He explained that the wallpaper was one of the elements that inspired the collection, along with English and British elements found within all of the pieces. Sachin highlighted that season after season they aim to design pieces for the modern bride that fit into all occasions and events a bride has to dress for.

 
Sachin & Babi: Wildly Romantic

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they aim to design pieces for all occasions a bride has to dress for

A personal favorite of mine has always been the pant and overcoat look. Sachin explained that his wife Babi had actually wanted to go with the idea, but originally he had hesitations. Following her instincts certainly paid off, as it is one of their top-selling looks for bridal. The non-traditional bride still wants something glamorous yet unique. This season the sheer cotters with all-over floral hand embroidery layered over a silk bustier and trousers was a fan favorite, and sure to be a hit.

the pant and overcoat look is one of their top-selling looks for bridal

This season Sachin & Babi brought the romance, unexpected drama, and impeccable attention to details once again. Almost every woman at the presentation wanted to walk down the aisle in one of those numbers.

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NYFW Bridal

With love,

FWO

Lutz Huelle Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Lutz Huelle Paris Fashion Week SS18

Represented by Pressing PR.

Lutz Huelle presented a smart, sexy collection this Paris Fashion Week that was street-wise and just a little avant garde.

Studied asymmetry gave the collection an edgy feel, with fascinating cut-and-paste juxtapositions that included denim on lace. And the exaggerated sleeves on some of the looks teased the collection into the realm of the conceptual.

 
Lutz Huelle: Paris Fashion Week

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When parts of clothing cease to have function (as in sleeves that extend a foot or so past the hands), they enter the realm of artwork (or at least beyond the degree that fashion already is). The trick (if finding appeal at retail is the goal), is to stay grounded among a core audience. Huelle accomplishes this by imbuing the collection with a street-smart appeal: a sort of sass-by-way-of-cut.

Huelle imbues the collection with a street-smart appeal

According to the designer: “Thinking of how to renew the bomber jacket, I ended up with just the round shape of a ball. Cut in techno taffetas they are both practical and highly glamorous. The real bombers, in collaboration with Alpha Industries, are used in their smallest and most feminine shape and elongated with lace or silver jacquard.

“Denim jackets are cut into panels; elongated with the same panels — cut in lace or net fabric — they turn into long sweeping coats or dresses. The same panels are cut out of denim pants to reveal the legs inside — jeans for very hot days!”

For Spring 2018, Huelle succeeded in creating looks that blended concept with pragmatism, for those who want to add a little street cred to their sartorial dossier.

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lutzhuelle.com
Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

K-Fashion Project Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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K-Fashion Project Paris Fashion Week SS18

Represented by Totem Fashion.

5Korean designers were selected from 100 by global fashion experts such as Vogue Korea, TRANOÏ, and Colette. The experts were involved in the screening process and even visited the designer studios in person to focus on their strategies and ability to enter the overseas market.

The goal? Bring these five designers to Paris Fashion Week to show their collections, and be part of a pop-up sales and window display collaboration with Colette, Paris’s legendary retailer boutique, to gauge the possibility of expanding the business even further.

The designers showed at Palais de la Bourse under the name of “K-Fashion Project in Paris.”

 
K-Fashion Project: Paris Fashion Week

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Kathleen Kye (KYE)

kye paris fashion weekA graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins, Kathleen Kye launched her label Kye in 2011. (We wrote about her her VFILES presentation last year.)

Kye’s collection was a noted departure from her jumpsuits and colorful streetwear of last September. While these still made an appearance, the looks included shiny fabrics and big ruffles. Our favorites here were the shiny tracksuit with pleats, and the distressed-edge frock with what appeared to be matching shorts.

Kye has a gift for unexpected combinations that work, and this season was no exception.

Taeyong Ko (Beyond Closet)

Taeyong Ko launched Beyond Closet in 2008, with the goal of reinterpreting the American preppy aesthetic. This season, he presented a very stylized collection that seemed to live somewhere between Band of Outsiders and Hedi Slimane‘s final collection for Saint Laurent, with possibly just a touch of DSquared2. The result? A Streetwear 2.0 collection that could take a fashion-conscious guy from beach to club with aplomb. But our favorite look was the under-dandy first look, with the retro stripes, overlength sleeves, neat valise, and big straw hat.

JinHee Moon (Moon J)

JinHee Moon presented a frilly, ruffley collection with stripes and diagonal lines inspired by art. This season, Moon J took inspiration from Umberto Mariani‘s textile works. The sum effect was a collection that looked like modern art, and should appeal to anyone wanting to wear their love of fine art (literally) on their sleeves.

Moon took inspiration from Umberto Mariani

BumSuk Choi (General Idea)

Bumsuk Choi, with his trademark beret and sunglasses, is the founder of General Idea. The “phono sapiens” concept (people who live on their phones) is a through concept for the brand.

The collection was an interesting mixture of sporty looks with bold color blocking, big stripes, and psychedelic paisley. The oversized bags and cuts were bold and playful. General Idea seems to express the vision of street kids just on the verge of a revolution.

street kids on the verge of a revolution

Eunae Cho (Ti:baeg)

Superb is the best word to describe Eunae Cho’s collection. She started her own brand in 2011 after leaving Yonsei University in Seoul and her clothes have since been sold as far afield Los Angeles, Canada, Kuwait, Hong Kong, and Singapore. Ti:baeg is pronounced “Teabag,” and indeed it makes use of tea-leaf prints and green as her signature color. Stridently ignoring gimmicks or high concept, Cho created a gorgeous collection that was beautiful, balanced, attentive to silhouette, and should do superbly at retail, as well.

All the collections shown were manufactured with Korean domestic fabrics and sewing technology under the slogan “Made in Korea, Made for You,” to impress global buyers with the excellence of Korean fashion products.

The show was organized by The Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry (KRIFI) sponsored by the Ministry of Trade, Industry and Energy.

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Paris Fashion Week
The Korea Research Institute for Fashion Industry

With love,

FWO

Andrew Gn Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Andrew Gn Paris Fashion Week SS18

What a brilliant collection. An homage to the uber-fashionable Tokyo district Harajuku and the ancient town of Kyoto were at the heart of the Gn’s Spring 2018 collection, shown this Paris Fashion Week.

Images are below.

 
Andrew Gn: Paris Fashion Week SS18

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Paris Fashion Week

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FWO

Alexis Mabille Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Alexis Mabille Paris Fashion Week SS18

Spring is, after all, a time of fertility and rebirth. So it’s probably no surprise that Alexis Mabille began with florals (as in, actual flowers), to complement sheer (sometimes transparent) separates, super-breezy silhouettes, in (traditional) girl-baby pinks and boy-baby blues.

As the show progressed, the looks gradually morphed into angular silhouettes, tightly cinched at the waist, with more glam-worthy fabrics, and even some Spanish-style lacework.

 
Alexis Mabille: Paris Fashion Week

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(Images: Dominique Maitre)
 

One of our favorite looks was a voluminous striped dress cinched with a giant bow, with giant lapels and red inner piping. Our other, a white floral lace dress seen in Look 19, seemed to bookend a collection poised somewhere between spring innocence and some of the more worldly pursuits of evening.

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alexismabille.com
Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

Dumitrascu Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

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Dumitrascu Paris Fashion Week SS18

Represented by Ritual Projects.

As one of the New York Times “5 New Designers To Watch,” expectations of Andra Dumitrascu are bound to be expectedly high.

After studies with Raf Simons, Bernhard Willhelm, and Veronique Branquinho, Berlin-based Dumitrascu launched its debut collection in 2016.

For “Kebaby,” his Spring 2018 presentation at Paris Fashion Week, Dumitrascu decided to take inspiration from “rave, youth, a transit generation.” So it’s not so surprising he would use a metro station as a backdrop for the collection.

 
Dumitrascu: Paris Fashion Week SS18

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Decidedly unisex, with a sporty element, some of the high-tech fabrics gave the collection a futuristic appeal, while some of the oddball pattern combinations and asymmetrical fringes suggested thrift store finds or dumpster rescues.

A few of the more chic ensembles has an almost superhero vibe: perhaps for that personality teetering just on the edge of a psychotic break.

Conceived at night in some of the shadier neighborhoods of Paris, it’s the kind of collection you could conceive of wearing while eating ramen at an all-night restaurant, somewhere between coming down and going up, possibly while listening to Bowie’s “Speed of Life.”

No matter how you parse it, the collection was astute, imaginative, and full of an authentic connection to the wilder side of things.

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Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO