John Galliano Spring 2018: Paris Fashion Week

Hip-to-be-square was the theme of creative director Bill Gaytten‘s latest collection for John Galliano. The Spring/Summer collection presented a beautiful embrace of the bad girl, drawing inspiration from John Waters’s cult romance musical Cry Baby

 
John Galliano Paris Fashion Week

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Mandarin collars on ornate jackets reminded us a bit of last season’s Adam Ant-fueled collection, but the spring colors were brighter and more effervescent, while still daringly mixing high and low, masculine and feminine.

the looks daringly mixed high and low, masculine and feminine

Soft satin fabrics alternated with strong masculine suits, giving a strong contrast between hard and soft, but the collection also pulled out the best of nightgowns and partywear.

In line with other pajamas-as-eveningwear we saw on this season’s runways, some looks could work just as easily in the ballroom as the bedroom. Light crepe was wrapped around the bodies of models to build a fairytale narrative.

Just as we got used to silky negligees and lightweight gowns, Gaytten surprised with rough suits over buttoned-up blouses. Light-tucked tuxedos and both pink and black suits reminded us of the Met Gala, where everybody wants to be.

But what’s a gala without the perfect princess dress? Whether you prefer pretty pink or glittering gowns, Gaytten’s bad-girl spring fling seemed to have something for all tastes.

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With love,

FWO

Chanel Paris Fashion Week

One of the drawbacks of being iconic is that it’s difficult to stray too far from an expectation. And yet, constant invigoration is necessary. (For evidence, look no further than the updated Klingons in the latest Star Trek reboot.)

So it is that Karl Lagerfeld took his bouclé jackets into a rainstorm (or, more conceptually, to the waterfalls of the Gorges du Verdon in the South of France), transforming the signature Chanel boater hat into a transparent number with (what else?) matching transparent boots, in the first of many new looks from the storied fashion house.

But Lagerfeld can’t escape the power of his artistry: which means even a “concept” can’t lessen the unerring balance of colors and lines that make the collection, not just unmistakable Chanel, but unmistakably at the level of Chanel.

As the show progresses, the jackets morph into deconstructions of themselves; transparent gloves and capes make an appearance; there are shaggy sweaters, fairy-tale capes, futuristic materials, and even looks that seem tie-dyed.

All of which is to say, in Lagerfeld’s hands a formula that could risk looking overly familiar or stale, holds up rather in the same way Pachelbel’s Canon and Gigue holds up, no matter how often you hear it.

There are repeats, and then there there are classics.

 
Chanel Paris Fashion Week

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From the press materials:

This season, the designer tells a story with aquatic tones. An iridescent rainbow palette, with scintillating gold and silver accents, echoes the reflections of the sun and the moon on the water’s surface. Aqua prints in blue and white, luxuriant greens, delicate pinks and vibrant shades imbued with the energy of nature all adorn the Spring-Summer silhouette.

Defined by wide shoulders, described as “tumbling” by Karl Lagerfeld, structured lines are softened by an ethereal fluidity. From metallic tweed to crushed-smooth silk, from chiffon to lace and to the richly embroidered drops of water, each design features a play on light and water. This play is reflected in the materials as well; leather paired with tweed on tops and mini-skirts, tweed patchwork swathes dresses in bold colors. Dresses and wide jackets in woven tweed extend with fringes that quiver like tall aquatic plants, while coat-dresses flow with shimmering metallic threads. The suit jacket is paired with cropped trousers in organic tones, a geometrically stitched dress, or an iridescent skirt trimmed with a twisted braid.

Contrasting structured lines with supple fabrics, oversized blouses in white chiffon, knotted with a scout scarf, are paired with straight mini-skirts. Strapless chiffon sheath dresses with parquet pleating are finished with diaphanous coquillé flounces. A call to lightness and softness is illustrated through dresses in frayed lace or pleated silk. Dresses in waffled chiffon embroidered with crystal pendants accompany dresses with pleats or ribbons and mesh with flounced sleeves that undulate like waves.

With elegant humor, Karl Lagerfeld accessorizes the CHANEL woman with wide-brimmed hats, capes, fingerless gloves, rainboots and thigh-high boots in transparent plastic. The water-drop earrings are accompanied by sautoirs and necklaces of crystalline beads.

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chanel.com

With love,

FWO

GAUCHÈRE Paris Fashion Week

Represented by PR Consulting Paris.

The room is filled. The audience is present. Music takes over the space: the show is on. A dialogue opens between the space and the clothes, a filmed documentary of clothes, models and movement. Girls interact with the space and the camera; new perspectives open up.

A virtual reality, deconstructed and reconstructed, with detachable elements on jackets, pants and skirts, held by buttons. Classic pinstripe, and stripes in various forms. Graphic elements through technical grid lace and open woven cotton, in black and white. Laces in various forms on shirts, dresses, tops and skirts. Pleated skirts with prints, and a silver coated jacket and skirt.

 
GAUCHÈRE Paris Fashion Week

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GAUCHÈRE showcased a beautiful and modular collection made up of complex layering, beautiful gathers, and adroit pairings in sophisticated color combinations.

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gauchere-paris.com

With love,

FWO

Isabel Felmer Paris Fashion Week

Represented by Totem Fashion.

Isabel Felmer’s Spring 2018 collection was mainly inspired by the ’80s model Sayoko Yamaguchi. Her spirit was present in colorful silhouettes and prints.

Prints was created by Isabel Felmer with futuristics pictures of her own designs. For instance, a picture of Isabel herself was completely transformed, created from her videographic performance “Kokeshi & Yukio” in 2010.

Another picture is from her series “Future Century 0009.” She offers looks that are both futuristic and retro.

 
Isabel Felmer Paris Fashion Week

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(Photos: Perepadya Karina)

Kimonos feature colorful prints for a modern geisha. Costumes and dresses are inspired by the 1860s, contrasting with futuristic silhouettes of the ’80s. The color palette ranges from pink, yellow, lilac, blue, in prints; up to total looks white or black.

We loved the Warhol-esque prints, big collars, and picture-perfect silhouettes of this very elegant, stylish, and imaginative collection.

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isabelfelmer.com

With love,

FWO

Litkovskaya Paris Fashion Week SS18

Represented by Public Image PR.

LITKOVSKAYA proved why they are one to watch this Paris Fashion Week, showing their SS18 collection, entitled Laura, for the first time in Paris on Thursday September 28th

This is the study of Laura Palmer’s nature. This is a tribute to the work of Pre-Raphaelites. Face of Kylie Minogue, hidden by the green water in the Nick Cave’s clip. Which, in some moments, is so similar to Laura’s.

 
Litkovskaya: Paris Fashion Week SS18

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For LITKOVSKAYA, David Lynch is a some kind of methodology for the movement. It is the search for the meaning of the universe through human nature. Mr. Lynch explores his characters, exposing them to unconventional experiences and emotional states. So do we create clothes that change the meaning, the shape, the lines but do not change the essence – and therefore reveal the character of the one who wears them. The same way as Roerich’s Shangrila changes its colour depending on the state of the environment, so do LITKOVSKAYA clothes deny the stable unique shape and do not have the wrong side at all.

Our products are a manifestation of the inevitable human nature duality. We connect materials, which are opposite in nature. Vulcanized cotton with weightless embroidery, organic linen with buckram. We permeate perforated cotton with light strands of silk threads. Transparent mesh as a symbol of the water element. Classic male strip, bowed before the female silhouette. Handwork. Perforation. Embroidery. Spring-Summer collection unites variety of complicated artisanal techniques. As a nod to our love to contrasts, all the most sophisticated work is done by man’s hands.

LITKOVSKAYA is a minimalistic womenswear brand standing aside from the everyday fashion process. Clothes beyond time and trends, that create their own reality. The brand was founded in 2009 by designer and skilled constructor Lili Litkovskaya. Winner of four Best Fashion Awards in nominations «Best womenswear designer» (2011, 2014, 2015) and “Best fashion-production” (2010). Winner of Elle Style Awards – 2009.

Presented in L’Eclaireur Paris, Moda Operandi, Selfridges London, Rare Market Seoul, Nordstrom USA and TSUM Moscow among others.

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litkovskaya.com
Paris Fashion Week

With love,

FWO