CHANEL Paris Fashion Week FW18
With décor composed of a fountain at the center of an elaborate garden, surrounded by a trellis tunnel swathed with climbing roses, ivy and jasmine, Karl Lagerfeld presented the CHANEL Spring-Summer 2018 Haute Couture Collection.
CHANEL: PFW FW18
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Models are crowned with floral hairpieces and tulle veils, wearing matching boots in tweed, leather or embroidered tulle with transparent heels. They blossom beneath layers of silk tulle, chiffon and organza—pleated or enriched with botanical embroidery in sequins, beads, stones and strass. Feathers caress shoulders and brush ankles, extending the woven tweed and matte satin. Through this softness, femininity is expressed in a palette of gentle tones of tender pink, coral, frosted lemon, mint, grey and pale taupe that contrast with more intense colors, including black, sparkling silver, fuchsia, deep green and electric blue.
Under the first rays of the Spring sun, the iconic tweed suit appears in pale pink or white. The straight or slightly trapeze-cut jacket is defined with a relaxed collar, a kimono sleeve, a rounded shoulder and a faintly cambered back. Welt pockets tempt hands to slip inside with what Karl Lagerfeld calls “the new attitude,” brimming with strength and character. Beneath the suit, block colored satin contrasts with the softness of woven tweed in shades alternating between powdered hues of pink, green, orange, golden sand and black, shot with neon thread. The suit appears as a trompe-l’œil dress or coat dress, as a long tunic or A-line jacket, accompanied by skirts or French culottes, with embroidered braids highlighting the structure and stitching of the highly-technical jacket construction.
Superimposed lines combine finesse and volume in a cascade of floral embroidery, pleats and ethereal flounces. Strapless mini-dresses embellished entirely in sequins are veiled in tulle embroidered with delicate plumetis flowers; other styles reveal high-necked plastrons sewn with a jeweled braid or appear as long sheath dresses overlaid with lace silk tulle with hints of silver. A cage dress adorned and dimensionalized with curled feathers passes a long dress in duchess satin, which is then interrupted by a skirt resplendent with tulle.
Embroidered wisteria, bouquets of camellias, pansies, anemones, buttercups and carnations blossom everywhere. Poppies are printed on the tulle of a ruffled dress and large flowers in watercolor hues are painted over a long, light and fluid skirt.