Now that Pierpaolo Piccioli has had time to settle into his role as solo Creative Director at Valentino, probably it comes as no surprise he’ll be looking to branch out in more ways than one. Offering one more sign of changes taking hold at the brand, the designer will hold his pre-fall 2017 runway show in New York. Although the date has been set for January 11, the show location is as-yet unconfirmed. “I am thinking of New York for June, too,” he told WWD. “New York seems to me the ideal location for the pre-collections; it’s international and has such charm.”

New York is international and has such charm.

Pre-fall is one of those nebulous fashion week events, spread across the “Big 4” and organized not so much by design as whimsy: which makes it a breath of fresh air, in the cluster of producers and organizers jockeying for attention during the more “organized” fashion weeks of February and September. Piccioli told WWD “pre-collections are becoming super important, where style is fundamental. These collections really represent the company.”

Pre-collections are becoming super important, where style is fundamental.

Ever since fashion week has become more of a consumer-facing proposition, we’ve seen some of the traditional boundaries between the “Big 4” dissolve a bit, as witnessed by Givenchy‘s NYFW spectacle just a few seasons ago. We’ll keep you posted at the Pre-Fall ’17 season develops. ## With love, FWO

What is “American fashion?” If designers like Anna Sui, Jason Wu, and Marc Jacobs have anything to say about it, those words are synonymous with Ralph Lauren. The question was posed to attendees of WWD’s first-ever WWD Honors, recognizing leaders in the fashion and retail industry. Their first honoree, of course: Ralph Lauren. First-Ever WWD Honors [portfolio_slideshow id=22501 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false showdesc=true] (Photos: Photos: Abel Fermin / WWD/REX/Shutterstock) And what a night. The room was a “who’s who” of notables, from Anna Sui, Jason Wu, and Marc Jacobs to John Varvatos and Carolina Herrera. But the focus of the evening was the boy from the Bronx who built a necktie line into a $7.5 billion global empire — who, incredibly, will soon be entering his 50th year in business. Asked by WWD 10 years ago about his achievements, Lauren said:”This is not work. It’s passion, and it’s love.”

This is not work. It’s passion.

Lauren was recipient of WWD’s inaugural John B. Fairchild honor, recognizing a career of influence and distinction. The accolade was named after John B. Fairchild, the brilliant and mischievous editor who transformed WWD — and the fashion industry — by bringing designers to the forefront while focusing on “society” as well. According to WWD editor-in-chief Ed Nardoza, the new honors “will provide WWD with a platform to acknowledge real achievement and accomplishment, especially at a time when the fashion industry is facing the challenges of digitization, globalization, overheated celebrity, and unpredictable consumer behavior. We’re especially proud to establish a lasting honor in Mr. Fairchild’s name. And there isn’t a more deserving person than Ralph Lauren, whose incredible career Fairchild has chronicled every step of the way, from that first wide necktie.”

“We’re especially proud to establish a lasting honor in Mr. Fairchild’s name,” said WWD’s editor-in-chief Ed Nardoza.

Alongside Ralph Lauren, some true power names within the retail/consumer space were honored as well: Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano took home the CEO/Creative Leadership Award for building Dior into a global powerhouse amid the ever-changing luxury market. Inditex (owner of Zara) was honored for Corporate Citizenship, an award accepted by Felix Poza Peña, Corporate Social Responsibility Director, and Nacho Mora, Corporate Social Responsibility. Pandora A/S CEO Anders Colding Friis accepted the award for Best-Performing Company-Large Cap for his company, while Jeffrey Fowler, CEO of Farfetch UK, accepted the award for Best-Performing Company-Small Cap. This night felt like a true testament to longevity of icons within fashion: a blend of new and old personnel who have brought the fashion and retail industry into a new age: where digital is now a part of the landscape, but the art of clothing still takes center stage. ## With love, FWO

John Paul Ataker SS17

The lights dimmed, the music began, and as the models descended onto the runway, the catwalk was filled with whites and light blues.   A Goddess’ Spring   [portfolio_slideshow id=20012 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] The house of John Paul Ataker is known for ready-to-wear that imbues elegance and sophistication. Starting off as a custom tailor in Istanbul, Ataker has kept a strong sense of luxurious craftsmanship since his brand’s launch in 2012. Season after season, Ataker crafts looks tailored to outline the female silhouette. We witnessed monochrome ensembles start with structured tops paired with tapered pants, while flowing dresses and skirts added an element of femininity to the collection. FWO favorites included the off-the-shoulder crop top with strategically cut pants and the black long-sleeved maxi dress. This season’s collection took us back to the designer’s family’s ancient Assyrian culture, taking reference from the abundant lush, floral gardens of Babylon, created by the king for his one true love, the goddess Ishtar.

taking reference from the abundant lush, floral gardens of Babylon

Ataker’s Spring ‘17 collection brings us an elegant take on warm weather essentials, with looks that bring out the goddess within. ## Learn More johnpaulataker.com With love, FWO

Story with Carlos Martinez Q: Hey guys this is Melanie Sutrathada from Fashion Week Online with the beautiful Melanie Martins. She is a fantastic model with more than over 640,000 followers on Instagram alone, and she is just the sweetest soul in here. She’s in New York City and she’s been traveling and I want to know — you’ve been at Mykonos and a bunch of other countries. Venice, Paris … I mean, just in Greece I’ve been to like 5 or 6 places. Q: Oh my gosh, that sounds like a dream! From Athens, Mykonos, north to south: I’ve been to places I never even dreamed about. I never even knew them; I just saw them when I arrived. Like castles one thousand, two thousand years old. It was a unique experience. And then we just took a trip directly to Venice for like two days, to the Vanity Fair events. And then the next day we slept in the airport of Milano, in the Sheraton, in terminal 1 which is exactly the same as terminal of Delta, to take a trip to New York Fashion Week.

Then we were in Venice for the Vanity Fair events. It’s been nonstop.

It was nonstop. I arrived at 5 o’clock, I’ve already missed two shows. People were calling me, “How are you, what are you doing?” I’m just like, “I’m at the bus stop, I’m arriving.” It was all drama. Q: I have to ask, what are your number one tips for traveling and beauty-on-the-go? How do you maintain it? Oh my gosh. Two things. First, let’s start with the very basics. Sleeping. Try to sleep at least 8 hours: I think it’s like the golden rule. I had a flight at 10:30, so what I did, I actually booked a night at the Sheraton hotel inside the airport to have my 8 hours. I arrived at midnight, and I got like 7 or 8 hours. It was my number one tip. A lot of people think, “Yeah, yeah, I’m going to sleep 2 hours here, and then I’m going take another 10 hours.” That’s not how it works. It’s not 2 here and 10 there. It’s always 7 or 8 hours. That’s number one.

8 hours of sleep. That’s #1.

Second, water. 2 liters — I’m not sure of the conversion, but 2 liters at least per day, all the time. And when you’re traveling, try to remove your makeup, Q: Yes, that’s like the best — you never want to be in an airplane with tons of makeup on, it’s awful. Take it off. I know a lot of people are like, “Oh my gosh, I don’t want to take off my makeup. But you’re in a plane, relax. There are no fashion photographers around the corner. No worries. You really have to have healthy skin. Q: Absolutely. Then I think if you can complement with an antioxidant, like green tea. I love green tea. And you can find green tea anywhere. Even in your trip, on your plane, they always have green tea. So instead of coffee, go with green tea; it’s rich in calcium and I think it’s really like one of the basics that works always.

Instead of coffee, go with green tea.

Q: So she said it. Just a little recap, always have 7 to 8 hours of sleep, at least 2 liters of water and definitely opt for the green tea when possible. Green tea guys, always. No coffee, no soda, no: green tea. It tastes amazing, it doesn’t have calories, and is an anti-oxidant for your skin and even helps you lose weight. It’s amazing! So it has like everything, you know? And the price is the same, and it has water in it! Q: You’re getting all that hydration, that great stuff, so that your skin’s going to be glowing as soon as you get off the plane. These are amazing tips. These are the essentials. Having a good moisturizer, being good to your skin. It depends on a lot of brands, you know. Some people like brands that are more natural, while others prefer more pharmaceutical things, and it comes down to style. I go for natural products. Q: Absolutely. One of my favorite things that I love, nice organic coconut oil, and I use that as moisturizer, so great. And it’s so inexpensive as well. And you can even eat it. It’s basically a food, it’s amazing. Like when you can eat it, that means it’s good.

When you can eat it, that means it’s good.

Q: Absolutely. Anything you can put in your body and also put on your body, like that’s a good place to be. Absolutely. Q: Do you have any favorite beauty trends that are happening for this season that you think Fashion Week Online and FTL Moda just needs to hop on? I’m a French person, so I will go for everything that is not too much. I’m not somebody who wears a lot of make-up on, with the contours and everything. I’m not really into it. Less is more, like Coco Chanel. So for me I think a “natural look” is going to be the best and trendiest thing. I even saw it in the Tommy Hilfiger show; you saw how they were so effortless, beautiful, and natural. Beautiful and natural styles. That is for me “the top.”

Beautiful and natural styles. That is for me “the top.”

Q: It’s this idea that beauty doesn’t have to be tons of fake eyelashes and lip-liner for days; it’s really about enhancing what you already have. You’re making the most of the beauty that you already have. So in maybe three words, what would you describe as what beauty means to you? 1) Authenticity. 2) Taking what’s inside, outside. And what’s the third? This is getting really tricky. I’d say it’s only one, authenticity. Authenticity, because the person that is someone else is taken! So take yourself, your inside, and take it out, and try really to highlight the best of you. That is beauty. Beauty is taking the highlight of your personality that you can’t see from the outside.

Beauty is taking the highlight of your personality that you can’t see from the outside.

I want to be walking and see the person that is somebody, you know. This is true beauty. If you’re not beautiful on the inside, the outside is nothing.

If you’re not beautiful on the inside, the outside is nothing.

Q: Thank you so much Melanie. I think your definition of beauty is actually just so beautiful in itself. And we’re so excited about having the opportunity to have you here. You’re so sweet, beautiful inside and out. Thank you so much. Thank you guys. ##

Blurred Lines

A long time ago — we think it may have been the late ’90s — some important lines in our culture got blurred. Musicians started looking suspiciously like models; and attention from the media for simply being attractive, in a familiar sort-of way — or simply behaving badly — became a curious form of recognition. Around this time — as marketers realized it was easier to churn out the familiar than look for rare talent — success increasingly became a measure of how many people were reached, rather than the quality of the thing doing the reaching, or the message itself.

Success became a measure of how many people were reached

In terms of marketing, of course, it’s eminent common sense. And it’s a movement fueled by bean-counters, and the greed of backers and stockholders and board members. And at the psychological level, it’s based on immaturity unchecked: that toddler-holdover-idea that if you can have two dollars — rather than one dollar — you should have two dollars: even if you were having a perfectly good life with the first dollar.

if you can have two dollars — rather than one dollar — you should have two dollars

And even if — in the process of acquiring the second dollar — you become a bit miserable, or produce a lower form of dialogue. As a result, reaching the greatest common denominator became paramount, and that meant creating adrenaline spikes: whether those spikes were achieved through hyper-sexuality — the marketing equivalent of high fructose corn syrup; or becoming an entertainer with the antics of a 5-year-old; or in churning out clothes, and then lining up sycophants to create a feeding frenzy based — not so much about the food on offer, mind you — but upon the frenzy itself.

reaching the greatest common denominator become paramount

Such it is with the latest collection from Tommy Hilfiger. Is it a terrible collection? No. It’s hard to dislike a cotton “band jacket” that recalls Hendrix’s Prussian officer’s pelisse. Even if — as many frenzied purchasers will probably soon realize — it’s fated to spend most of its time in the closet. (Unless you’re in a band, in which case you really need to rock that out.)

It’s hard to dislike a cotton “band jacket” that recalls Hendrix’s Prussian officer’s pelisse.

But ultimately, a flat collection — that looks like something from Old Navy — reminds us that we live in a world fueled mainly by dollars and decimal points: and fueled by a kind of collective madness. After all, when profit matters most, the lowest common denominator wins. And when it comes to fashion, even if the emperor’s clothes aren’t quite real, they’re still available for sale. ##

#Sad

If, one day, we all live on space stations — or in cyberpunk super-cities as envisioned by William Gibson or Philip K. Dick — we’ll probably be dressed up in KYE. The show happened at Mercer Street: home to the cobblestone streets where hipster kids and fashion hypebeasts casually stroll, while paparazzi scoop up the best of the best street style photos. Mercer Street is also home to VFiles, the ultra-hip showroom “boutique” where designer Kathleen Hanhee Kye launched her latest collection. And what a collection. KYE delivered a brilliant, wearable streetwear line with clean silhouettes, tasteful color-blocking, and smart, relaxed layering. Teal, bright red, mustard, and blue were used with materials such as mesh, silk, and various jerseys. The jewelry collection was in collaboration with Korean brand Vintage Hollywood. The futurism — or perhaps present-ism — of Kye’s collection is said to pay homage to our self-publicized selves: our carefully constructed, 2D doppelgänger that inhabits social media, disguising any hint of alienation or loneliness. But although grand ideas often exist to disguise a lackluster collection, in the case of Kye, the collection rides above the big ideas by creating an authentic space of its own in the 3D continuum of couture.

The collection rides above the big ideas by creating an authentic space

  Tomorrow Couture   [portfolio_slideshow id=19571 align=center width=699 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] Attendees included fashion stylist and model Aleali May, model Jordyn Woods and model-slash-cool-girl DJ Callie Reiff. Chilled Babe Rosè was served to sip on while browsing the studded, pop art collection. The collection proves Kye is a force to be reckoned with. And VFILES always comes correct. ## Learn More kyefashion.com With love, FWO

Rosenthal Tee’s NYFW Debut

Fashion lovers anxiously wrapped around Pier59 to see Filipino designer Rosenthal Tee. The lights dimmed, and a parade of light, yet structured bridal and ready-to-wear pieces ensued. Monochrome ensembles in white, light blue, and mint green graced the stage with floral, lace, and fringe accents.   Springing into NYFW   [portfolio_slideshow id=19490 align=center width=600 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=false] (Photos: AUC Fashion Event Images) A recent graduate of London campus of Istituto Marangoni, Tee has quickly become a rising star by creating strong pieces for women, balancing structure with feminine details. Her label embodies the designer’s free spirit and adventure; indeed, the Manila native has studied and worked in Asia and Europe. Now her journeys have brought her to New York Fashion Week.

Tee has quickly become a rising star

The show’s luxurious pieces can easily translate from street style to an elegant evening ensemble. As much as we’re ready to put on our jackets and boots in anticipation of fall, Rosenthal Tee makes us beg for next spring. ## Learn More rosenthaltee.com With love, FWO