If we’re not a fan of “high concept” fashion shows — even as we allow that a concept is a viable launchpad for a creative project — it’s probably because we believe fashion is art, and art is primarily something to be experienced.
More often that not, concepts are reductive. Yes, you can call Picasso’s women violent, or Marc Chagall’s melting sherbet landscapes “dreamlike,” but to try and “explain” the experience of a painting rather obviates the need for the painting to have been created in the first place.
Sneak Piccioli
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So it is with Pierpaolo Piccioli’s pre-fall 2017 collection, which took place in New York yesterday. If the concept of New York as the gateway to the land of the free — supported by a Nina Simone soundtrack — appeared mainly in a ’20s-inspired sensibility, it took nothing from a gorgeous collection that is — like all great art — something to experience viscerally. Or, as Nabokov said, with the “top of the tingling spine.”
Piccioli’s mastery of color took center stage, with Victorian violets to mod-’60s tangerines. Here were glossy leathers and shiny furs, textured suedes and appliqués. Indeed, the collection explored several eras, while making exquisite use of layering and juxtaposition: minks over PJs, and lace with galoshes.
Piccioli’s mastery of color took center stage.
If ever a young girl wandered out onto the moors on a rainy night, prepared to get right back into bed, many of these would be the perfect ensemble for such a storybook stroll.
Runway
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Editors Melanie Sutrathada and Chris Lavish were on hand to see the collection up close. Video to follow, so stay tuned.
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More info.www.valentino.com
With love,
FWO
The legendary and eponymous Vivienne Westwood brand has undergone several metamorphoses: first as one of the architects of the punk rock aesthetic with Malcolm McLaren, for decades as a platform for Vivienne Westwood’s signature style, and more recently as a showcase for Andreas Kronthaler‘s phantasmagoric, unisex Sexercise collection.
The brand is also in the middle of a retail expansion: it recently opened stores in Paris and Los Angeles, and 2017 marks the long-awaited debut of its newest location at 14 E. 55th St. in New York.
FWOers Melanie Sutrathada and Chris Lavish sat down with Westwood’s own Lauren Eifel to talk about the new store.
Westworld
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Q: How did the location in this amazing prewar townhouse actually come to fruition? I would love to hear more about the architecture.
From what I know they had been planning to buy this building for a long time. It’s been under construction for 2 or 3 years. The signs have been up; people have been waiting for us. We finally opened 2 months ago.
The interior is definitely different from the usual architecture in her stores. This one is a little bit more minimal, a little bit more industrial and unfinished. You’ll notice the drywall is unfinished; you can still see the screws in the wood. So it’s a different vibe.
Q: Vivienne Westwood has also locations in Paris and in LA, so I feel like New York of course had to be next. New York kind of has everything and anything you could ever want.
We did have a store on Green Street about 20-15 years ago. A lot of people remember it; a lot of people who come in here are big fans of the brand and they’ve been shopping for years. Since then, there’s been a huge gap for Vivienne Westwood, so it’s time for us to be back on the scene.
It’s time for us to be back on the scene.
Q: That’s fantastic. I feel like Vivienne Westwood has been on the [international] scene for a long time.
40 years.
Q: Oh my God. Can you tell us a little bit about what inspires you about Vivienne Westwood, and what draws you to the brand?
I was first exposed to Vivienne Westwood through Japanese street style in Fruits and on the Harajuku street girls, and it was always so cute.
I noticed Westwood was not a typical brand: the silhouettes were totally different, the colors were totally different. It’s very interesting and quirky. I’ve had a lot of love and respect for the brand. So when I heard they were coming to New York, I jumped on it. I was like, “Get me in here! Can’t miss this.”
I noticed Westwood was not a typical brand.
Q: Absolutely. One of the great things I think is so fantastic about Vivienne Westwood is that you might have seen a lot of her stuff and not know that you were seeing it. She’s inspired a lot of the punk movements, so you’ll see a lot of things like safety pins and amazing dog collars and so many chokers, and so much tartan. And a lot of that is really due to Vivienne Westwood.
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More info.www.viviennewestwood.com
@viviennewestwoodusa
With love,
FWO
If you missed February and September New York Fashion Weeks, in addition to the political statements and celebrations of diversity, it was a great year for (gasp!) fashion and style, as well. (Truth be told, we were pretty excited about the larger social aspects as well. Even if designers like Taoray Wang seemed oblivious to everything.)
Orange Took The Spotlight
Maybe orange really is the new black! One of the biggest trends from the show was that orange took a heavy presence. Tom Ford and Calvin Klein both had models wearing brilliant orange outfits. Besides what was debuted on the top models accessories and other clothes also featured orange. Replacing pink and black, orange might just be the new color.
Black Is Out, White Is In
Most people say that you shouldn’t wear white after Labor Day but at the New York Fashion Week we saw a good amount of white. This was in the form of a uniform/suit style outfit. As other industry experts note, a Tide pen would be a good companion for this outfit.
Sporty Look
Multiple fashion stars made the move to go sporty. Whether it is traditional sporty appearance or flashy sporty, both appeared at the show. Showing a little tummy with these outfits isn’t out of the question. Many of them have also been paired with a set of heels.
Fringy
Remember when it was cool for men to have fringe on their jackets? Now that style is coming back for women but it isn’t limited to jackets. Fringes were added to all sorts of styles at this year’s New York Fashion Week. While most of the fringes had a flair for long fringes while a few had shorter ones. Even the sporty style mentioned above incorporated some fringe.
Tie It On Up
There are a lot of different designs and styles out there but you can add a little extra flair to your outfit with a simple tie. One way is to tie a sweater around your waist but you can also add sleeves when you don’t need them and multiple designs saw artificial sleeves added on to outfits. It doesn’t even have to look completely believable.
Vertical Stripes
All kinds of outfits from dresses to rompers featured vertical stripes. These stripes tend to make you appear as if you were taller and depending on how they are worn, will also help to make you thinner in the process.
The Fanny Pack Is Back
Maybe it’s the success of Stranger Things, but For those who weren’t already in the know, this year showed the return of an old fashion style, the fanny pack. Whether it is a sporty fanny pack, a geeky one, or something that looks ancient, people are wearing them. Another style for the fanny pack is for it to be worn over the shoulder.
Flowing Trains
Whether on a coat or a dress the train made a solid appearance at New York Fashion Week. Both solid color trains and transparent ones were seen. As were trains of all lengths and sizes. A good number of the trains featured a long V-neck style down the middle. A train can go with any outfit now, not just a wedding gown or a gala.
Why Hide The Belly?
One style that raised a few eyebrows was in the Eckhaus Latta Spring 2018 collection. Instead of hiding the belly of their pregnant model, they opened the belly up and let it be exposed. Taking pride in being a woman and in being a mother is important and this style helps to instill that. Plus it goes to show that pregnancy doesn’t mean you don’t get to be fashionable.
New York Fashion Week brought a lot of big trends to the fashion world. There will be a lot of things for you to wear in 2018. But take the styles you saw at Fashion Week and start creating your own. The only question left now, is what will Fashion Week 2018 bring? Will it continue on any of the styles from this year? Or will it change?
What’s Next for NYFW 2018?
We think interest in virtual and augmented reality will increase with the debut of Spielberg’s Ready Player One. Unless it sucks. Which we hope it won’t, since we loved the book. We know the future of fashion (as in most things) will be in virtual and augmented reality. Which means true VR fashion isn’t far off, and with it, a VR Fashion Week, in conjunction with RNWY.
So get those VR goggles ready, since you’ll be using them for fashion week watchin’, virtual fittings, and much more. After all, the NYFW schedule for 2018 is already coming together.
Samsung and Microsoft are already in the game. (Apple, are you listening?)
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Fashion icon André Leon Talley recently had the courage to say he would be opting out of Trumpland. By which we assume we means he will not be writing about or collaborating with any of the more fashion-forward Trumps.
Whether that implied promise — which will perhaps put him at odds with some powerful people in his circle — will be kept remains to be seen.
The first question that must lead any examination of whether a boycott of Donald, Melania, and Ivanka is appropriate is logically simple: Is Donald Trump evil?
From the answer to that question, all else must flow. If Donald Trump is truly evil, he cannot be supported. And if he is truly evil, people who support him cannot be supported.
But what is evil? Let’s not stick to a textbook definition here. Let’s consider the root idea behind the concept of evil.
Evil is a type of harm to others.
We all harm others, of course, intentionally or unintentionally. That’s an unfortunate fact of life. So you might say evil is defined in part by degree, and in part by intent.
Evil is a degree of harm to others caused by a systematic lack of caring, at best; a direct desire to hurt others, at worst. And evil can be the product of omission as well as commission. A failure to help; a failure to act, when we have the power to help: this, too, is evil.
Evil can be the product of omission as well as commission.
Edmund Burke said, “The only thing necessary for the triumph of evil is for good men to do nothing.” Turning a blind eye to evil — failure to accept the beautiful privilege of exercising our ability to help others, one of the sterling gifts of consciousness itself — makes us as culpable as any actor who directly harms another.
Evil, at root, is selfishness run amok. We see it in the behavior of Kanye West, in bad-behaving celebrities we make more successful with clicks (we vote with clicks, whether we like to think so or not), and in our current president-elect.
Why do we support evil people?
And what can we do about them?
Evil is never destroyed by evil; so we should never seek to humiliate or harm. But we do need to fight.
And the first step is to recognize where we are complicit. And to call out those, from Tommy Hilfiger to Carolina Herrera, who may be willing to overlook evil. (Jury still out; see below.) Because when we overlook the overlookers, we join the ranks of those who have failed.
Now the most salient question: Is Donald Trump evil?
We don’t have all the answers yet.
So far, our president-elect hasn’t had the power to do much beyond talk. But the pattern we’ve seen so far — distorting not just the truth, but the concept of truth; using emotionalism, particularly fear and hatred, to manipulate people to his own ends; failure to decry evil in the form of white supremacism (even while finding ample time to humiliate those who criticize him) — paints a worrisome picture, at best.
All of this means one thing: we have to keep our eyes more open than ever.
Because, after all, if early signs are any indicator, the “new normal” will be anything but.
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With love,
FWO
For the second year in a row, the legendary Simon Doonan of Barneys New York has partnered with students of The High School of Fashion Industries to create holiday windows. This year the unveiling showcased pop icons like Beyoncé, Dolly Parton, Joan Jett, and Grace Jones.
The windows were donned with red carpets, people drinking hot cider, and a formal countdown. The first revealed a Madonna-like mannequin sitting in a tulle dress, “Vogueing” in a pop-art style portrait. Grace Jones came complete with cigarette, flat-top cut, and Keith Haring prints all over the box.
Windows to the Cold
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(Photos by Ben Russell)
The Celia Cruz window showed a perfect tropical Christmas scene, with her image in the background, a feather, colored light tree, and everything tropical. Next I walked over to see the Beyoncé window, with mannequin front-and-center modeled after the queen herself, donned in the wide brimmed “Formation Tour” hat, with perfect mood lighting hitting her cheekbone.
Next was an equally accurate window of the lovely and voluptuous Dolly Parton in a pink window, with glitter accents, lollipops, and her biggest accents! Lastly, a Joan Jett mannequin stood front and center with an electric guitar. This team nailed the hair and outfit of the total rocker babe.
Student Sukari Webb, who is studying visual merchandising, said she learns how to successfully market a business through the visual presentation of a store.
“We learn everything from window displays, to store layout, and packaging design. This project was a final project for my classmates and me. Almost every day in class — whether we were picking the theme for the windows, or creating renderings and models — it was leading to the unveiling of the window displays.”
When asked about her future she said, “I would like to study visual merchandising, and later branch off into entrepreneurship. In the future I would like to help businesses create and develop the visual aspect of their brand. I would also like to own several successful business of my own. In addition to having a flourishing YouTube channel (kariwoo).”
I sat down with one of the advisory board chairs, Erica Roseman, in addition to Sukari, to discuss this success, the background of this holiday tradition, and future endeavors.
Q: How did the collaboration between the High School of Fashion Industries and Barneys (Simon) come about?
Barneys has been a longtime supporter of HSFI. In fact, the store had interns from HSFI during the Fred Pressman days.
Fred felt it was very important to give back to the community, and the school was a neighbor of Barneys in Chelsea. Simon has worked with the students for years, and last year he spent a day at HSFI being Principal for the Day. He enjoyed the students and vice versa. So the Advisory Board invited him to mentor the visual students. It was such a success, we were thrilled that he agreed to come back. Here are some of his tips for designing with holiday décor!
Simon Doonan’s Tips: 5 Do’s and Don’ts for Holiday Décor (for students, and everyone else too!)
1. Do … dare to be different, and have fun.
2. Do … use unexpected and unconventional elements. Example: cheapo copper pot-scrubbers from the hardware store make great Holiday wreaths. Old CDs make great tree decorations.
3. Don’t … feel you have to stick with traditional holiday iconography. Snowmen and reindeer are great … but so is Dolly Parton!
4. Don’t … forget that colored tree lights are more fabulous than white tree lights. (This is a pet peeve of mine!)
5. Don’t … forget to incorporate a revolving mirrored disco ball. Turn your living room (or window display) into a snow-globe!
Q: Will you partner with Barneys and Simon again next year?
Yes! We are hoping to make this an HSFI holiday tradition.
Q: What was Simon’s role in helping the teams?
Simon attended four classes acting as a mentor. He advised the students on concepts to creation. The students were divided into groups, and Simon worked with all of them very closely, lending his years of expertise.
For example, he had a lengthy consultation with one student about how to make Grace Jones’ flat-top hair perfect, and a long conversation with the Dolly Parton group about her outfit.
Q: Who attends the high school? Students who know they want to study fashion?
Students who have a strong interest in fashion can apply to HSFI. The curriculum includes traditional classes as well as fashion education.
Q: Who created the theme?
The students created the theme as a tribute to Simon and his legendary Barneys windows.
Q: Were there any limitations for the designers?
There were no limitations. Students were encouraged to be as creative as possible. This is their moment to shine!
The students did such a fabulous job, I cannot wait to see next year’s windows!
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More info.Simon DoonanThe High School of Fashion IndustriesBarneys New York
With love,
FWO
I guess it’ll come as no real surprise that, here at FWO, we like to wear nice clothes. Okay, um, we sometimes like to wear expensive clothes. While I personally prefer fashion “hacks” — like putting a rose gold Milanese watch band on a digital watch — our publisher has been known to skip meals to buy a nice “investment piece” that he’s then too afraid to wear, because it cost so much! The irony. And the real kicker is, when you buy expensive clothes, you can’t wear that same expensive thing too much, or it looks like it’s the only outfit you have. What’s someone with expensive taste — and a limited budget — to do?
Rent the Runway has had the answer for some time: rent it, of course!
And they’ve continued to expand the concept, from a purely online phenom to a series of retail stores. And now — to kick it up yet another notch, because why not? — they’ve partnered with Samsung to go beyond the traditional retail concept, and create one of the first “smart stores” out there, blending RTR’s rental concept with Samsung’s integrated technology to offer a unique shopping experience.
They’ve partnered with Samsung to create one of the first “smart stores.”
The new technology has come to life at RTR’s first-ever flagship, located in NYC’s flatiron district. The 4,000 square foot space is more than three times the size of the previous NYC location.
But this is no ordinary retail experience.
The store guides each customer’s visit based on her unique needs and her past interactions with Rent the Runway — whether onsite, in-app, or in a store. The flagship’s focal point will be Rent the Runway’s signature Dream Closet, complemented by a Genius Bar-esque service area called the RTR Bar, and a Style Studio for personal styling appointments.
The store guides each customer’s visit based on her unique needs and her past interactions.
Truly, this is the store of the future, for the women of the future.
In Touch
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The future of fashion is essentially the fusion of technology with fashion. And neither fashion nor technology are in short supply at the new flagship. After all, there are 4,000 square feet of gorgeous gowns, cocktail dresses, clutches, and jewelry to explore.
For the month of December they have exclusive events and free services
When you step into the gorgeous open space, Samsung’s 75-foot digital wall greets you with runway images, client stories, and collection inspirations. The décor looks like you just stepped into some old Hollywood glamour closet, with the blush-toned colors, marble entryways, and grey and neutral colored hardwood flooring.
Some of the Samsung-powered tech at the Rent the Runway flagship include:
· Four 32-foot end cap displays that highlight the depth of clothing styles and serve as a “closet in the clouds” with varying graphic formations that offer endless fashion choices. The touch overlay on each screen also provides users with the ability to check out the large amount of inventory not on display.
· A 75-foot Samsung digital video wall located at the front of the store incorporates Rent the Runway’s exclusive editorial content, to truly bring the brand to life and inspire customers with aspirational yet accessible looks, trends, and new arrivals. The wall is made up of nine 46-foot displays with capabilities that allow the store to engage customers and advertise day and night.
· Samsung’s 55-inch ML55E Mirror Display elevates the shopping environment and allows shoppers to experience the clarity of the mirror and full functionality of a display, and in this case, provide the perfect interactive screen for makeup touch-ups to accompany trying on the latest styles and trends.
Strut past the Style Studio, where only clients who make appointments can be styled. Clients stand in front of a digital mirror, which streams sayings and pleasantries as you take the perfect photo.
The grand opening of this store is perfect timing, with the holidays right around the corner.
For the month of December they have exclusive events and free services like PRIV Manicure Bar, Pressed Juicery, and Spruce & Bond!
To book an appointment at Rent the Runway’s flagship, click here.
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More Info.Rent the Runway Flagship
With love,
FWO(This story first appeared at New York Fashion Week Live.)
Anyone who grew up in the nineties knows exactly what Claire’s is. Although maybe some of those ’90 babies may have outgrown the brand, Claire’s is still designing, and their SS17 Destination collection is still just as perfect when us pre-teens dragged our moms there.
This latest launch came at the invite of Vogue, and included three different categories: Preen Queen, Wildflower Festival Dreams, and Pool Party. Each section captured the theme completely, from trinkets, accessories, and even sweet gifts to give your girlfriends.
Think Pink
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The Pool Party scene was complete with wide-brimmed hats, fruit-scented pom-pom keychains, patches, watermelon cups, tassle ankle-bracelets, and so much more.
Next was Wildflower Festival Dreams, which was a woodsy whimsical land for all things music festivals: hair accessories, stick-on rhinestones, silk bandannas, flower crowns, and cat-ear headbands.
Lastly, for all the Preen Queens, the selection included bedazzled white headphones, sheen trucker hats, rose-gold and blush bags and sunglasses, and chokers were everything!
Most items photographed are shoppable now, so keep an eye out. You may just need that flamingo water float!
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More info.www.claires.com
It was roughly 150 years between Frye’s debut in Massachusetts in 1863, and the opening of its first New York store in 2011. So you might say Frye’s full entrance into the NYC fashion scene has been a long time coming.
Fortunately, Frye is a brand with the luxury of time. As the United States’ oldest continually operating shoe company, Frye has been in every aspect of American footwear style for more than — well, pretty much longer than anyone.
Frye has been in American footwear pretty much longer than anyone.
But although Frye has been a ubiquitous staple, it’s only recently begun to put down stronger roots down in the high-fashion market.
It’s no secret that here at FWO, we’re a bit obsessed with handmade footwear (probably one of the reasons we declared Simone Cecchetto “world’s greatest shoemaker” not too long ago).
Likewise, Frye is no stranger to painstaking craftsmanship. They offer a Tuscan-made Artisan Collection, and if you’re curious about how Frye footwear is made, you can find out some about that here.
The Event
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(Photos: Sean Sime Photography)
On a cool night in late-November, Vogue VIP, Frye employees, bloggers, and influencers sipped on (rather strong) “Frye Mules” of whiskey, lime juice, and ginger beer while warm, mini-grilled cheeses were passed around. The DJ had the crowd lively and enjoying themselves while many networked and tried on the new collection.
The mainstay of the collection, not surprisingly, was boots: from hiking, to OTK, to shearling, with cute accessories like furry pom-pom beanies, cross-body bags, and small leather goods.
The In-Crowd
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The boot company has expanded, still touching on their original principles, but also enveloping fashion booties, ballet flats, sneakers, and heels.
Whether you’re ready for dusty trails in riding boots, easy-riding in motos, to tame Tuscan hills — or even rock out in Lou Reed-worthy chelseas — Frye probably has what you’re looking for.
From Lou Reed-worthy chelseas to taming Tuscan hills
Despite shedding the laced-up cages of our ancestors, corsets have made a surprising comeback … and on runways, no less.
An unmistakeable trend this past season, the antiquated fashion piece appeared on runways at Tibi and Wunderkind — not to mention the absolute explosion of corsets in street style.
Ever since Madonna popularized the corset in the ’80s — a stint that lasted into the ’90s — the corset has enjoyed relative fame as sexy outward accessory.
The definition of a corset (according to dictionary.com) is “a close-fitting undergarment, stiffened with whalebone or similar material, and often capable of being tightened by lacing, enclosing the trunk: worn, especially by women, to shape and support the body.”
It’s not quite an attractive-sounding garment, and has a reputation throughout history of distorting the body of its long-term wearers. A brief look at the history of the corset over the span of 16th-20th centuries exposes minute variances in design, but all were a source of consistent concern to physicians of those eras.
It has a reputation of distorting the body of its long-term wearers.
The concern was at first due to the tight-lacing methods popular in the nineteenth century, that were “rectified” in the Edwardian period with an “S-shaped” corset. However, the new version only fiddled with the musculoskeletal region in lieu of squeezing the inner organs of the abdomen.
Have I made you queasy yet? Well, if not, get ready: in the 1700s, children and babies were wrapped in corsets for fashionable reasons.
Clearly the corset’s comeback today is of a lesser degree, but it begs the question of femininity in fashion: when does it go too far? Corsets are prevalent in lingerie and, arguably, the Spanx is a modern form of physique-shaping minus the stitched-in boning.
It’s with the rebirth of waist-shapers, riddled on sponsored Instagram posts — and the increased popularity of curvaceous body shapes — that the concern arises. Are we any freer from shaping and shifting our bodies if we bring a clothing accessory like the corset back into play? And what does it say about us if we’re willing to cause ourselves physical harm (at one extreme) to achieve a “look” or chase a trend? Especially when the “thinning” effects of a corset aren’t even lasting?
What does it say about us, if we’re willing to cause ourselves harm (at one extreme)?
The distinction has to exist in the way in which it is worn. New interpretations on the “corset look” — like at Tibi — or interesting takes on lingerie, or on classic silhouettes: this is the very core of reinventing the past.
So wear your corsets in a dress, as a belt, loosely slung on your hips, as you will, but as physicians throughout the ages have warned: avoid tight-lacing.
Everyone likes tight curves, but it’s far more important to feel comfortable in your own skin, and look great in clothes that flatter.
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With love,
FWO
When Vogue invites, you go. You can also feel relatively certain the event will be either cool and trendy, or classy and glamorous, regardless of the venue. This one hit all notes. And I got to discover a watch to die for.
The event was for luxury jewelry and timepiece brand de GRISOGONO, held in the Upper East Side.
Hosting the event was none other than Genevieve Bahrenburg, artist, writer and filmmaker. A strong woman — who survived 22 days in a coma, and 13 brain surgeries after a drastic accident in 2013 — she welcomed guests in a stunning black dress and matching black diamond jewelry designed by Fawaz Gruosi, the heart and soul of the de GRISOGONO brand.
Black tie, black suits, and elegant cocktail dresses flitted around black diamonds, diamond-like carbon, and some pretty cool “smart accessories.” The Samsung Gear S2 smartwatch by De GRISOGONO grabbed my attention right away.
You can think of it as several luxury watches in one. You switch through different screens to change between multiple “traditional” faces, and several smart functions. (See the video above at around :29, and prepare to be “wowed.”)
Think of it as several luxury watches in one.
The Italian designer transformed the high-tech watch into a glamorous and sparkling accessory. The result? Truly, a luxury watch to die for.
A diamond-set gold bezel turns freely around the dial, partially hidden at 6 and 12 o’clock beneath two black DLC-coated arches set with the emblematic de GRISOGONO black diamonds
According to Younghee Lee, Executive Vice President of Global Marketing at Samsung, “This dynamic partnership builds merges Samsung’s barrier breaking technology with de GRISOGONO’s signature style to create a smartwatch as unique as the wearer.”
Christmas is knocking on the door — thanks to Vogue, Samsung and de GRISOGONO I know my wish for this year.
SAMSUNG GEAR S2, please.
(p.s. Interested in attending some events yourself? Check out Vogue VIP.)
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With love,
FWO
ifirst came across Fashionista.com when I was in college, researching careers before my “big move” to NYC. Every 12 months, Fashionista puts on one of the most fabulous conferences of the year, called “How To Make It In Fashion.” I was so bummed I missed it last year. So, needless to say, I was thrilled when I found out I would be covering it.
The daylong event was spread across two floors at the Metropolitan Pavilion in Chelsea. The main floor had girls with bright smiles, greeting the guests at check-in, alongside vendors like Essentia water and Sweet’Tauk lemonade. Of course no event is complete without a photo booth, so the Bosco was there, too.
The Event
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The morning started off with a menswear panel, “Why Menswear is Having a Moment,” from top gentleman like Jacob Gallagher of WSJ to street-style pro and brand director Lawrence Schlossman. The topics drifted from breaking gender barriers in the fashion industry, with lines like Vetements, to youth currently being the pulse of men’s fashion.
The collective of five professionals (which also included Jian DeLeon of WGSN, Todd Snyder, and Tom Kalenderian of Barneys), all agreed that NYFW: Men’s wasn’t quite ready for it’s “primetime” — specifically mentioning that until other designers like Ralph Lauren and Thom Browne show during the week, it still flies almost under the radar.
A lot of attention was focused on the talented up-and-coming young designers filling the void of what we’re experiencing now in menswear. The guys said there is so much potential for any young designer to create a collection and really blow up right now, since so many designers are looking to outlets like Instagram, and the streets, to see what trendy guys are wearing.
“Any young designer can really blow up right now.
Red Carpet
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After a quick break — when attendees could either sign up for a mentor session or network with fellow goers — the conference resumed.
The next topic was “How to Get Your Fashion Label Off the Ground,” with panelists Molly Howard of La Ligne, Rachel Roy, Scott Studenberg & John Targon of Baja East, and Timo Weiland.
Cathy Horyn of The CutCathy Horyn was the next guest speaker, head critic at The Cut … and was she fierce! She spoke about her time in Norfolk and Detroit, and how she was never a serious fashion lover but stuck with her original plan of journalism. She prides herself on being able to write freely, and noted that although she does have this advantage, her freedom of speech has cost her attendance to shows. That doesn’t stop her however: her badass attitude on life allows her to get back out there and cover the same story in an alternative way.
“Cathy Horyn’s freedom of speech has cost her attendance to shows.
Patricia Field
After a nice leg-stretch and mini-networking break, Patricia Field of Sex and the City fame was the next to guest the stage. Dressed in a cute and cozy cashmere jumpsuit, Field automatically brought the audience to life. Her bubbly and out-there personality created such a humorous interview. She advised the audience to “go with what you are strongest at.”
Following Field, Christian Siriano bounced on to the stage and kept up the liveliness! The most talkative of the bunch, Siriano spoke about his childhood and humble beginnings. Questions from the audience expressed the concern for the lack of other designers keeping in mind body issues on the runway. Siriano’s September collection was noted as including plus models, and models of different ages and races.
Christian Siriano
“Siriano is known for including plus models, and models of different ages and races.
In the Spotlight
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The last panel included influencers from brand agencies to bloggers. Featured panelists were Danielle Bernstein, of We Wore What, Jennifer Powell of Next Model Management, Krista Neuhaus of Kate Spade & Company, and Reesa Lake of Digital Brand Architects.
The audience was clearly made up of Danielle Bernstein fans, as they clapped for her as she glided across the stage. This was a really interesting panel, as not only could you get down to the super-nitty gritty of advertising on social media, but also hear how that business works from an agency’s side. Technology also played a big role in their conversation on gaining followers, engaging them, and the future of social.
Danielle Bernstein
The final keynote was Linda Rodin of RODIN olio lusso, who closed down the conference with amazing stories from her time styling on shoots, to creating more than 500 bottles of face oils in her apartment. Her love for her craft, and really creating a perfect and honest product, shone through.
The event was a huge success, not to mention the swag bags at the end! I loved being able to meet girls and guys working in a similar or same field, and all the advice that was given. (Plus, truly, you cannot go wrong with all-day coffee!)
Linda Rodin
For tickets to next year’s FashionistaCON visit fashionistsa.com. And a special thanks to the editors of Fashionista who moderated each segment: Alyssa Vingan, Tyler McCall, Dhani Mau, Maura Brannigan, Chantal Fernandez, and Stephanie Saltzman.
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FWO
FWO: The new Samsung mirror technology was designed specifically with fashion in mind. How did the idea come about? Ron Gazzola, VP, Samsung DisplayRonald Gazzola: The idea of developing digital display science for the fashion industry came about when we looked at the retail space. We knew developing a mirror display for fashion would be all about how to incorporate that experience. So we wanted to create a dynamic, engaging interaction, to create one-on-one interactivity between the consumer and the brand.
FWO: What are some interesting ways the mirrors can be used? Ronald Gazzola: One of the most basic would be the fitting room. Today you go into the fitting room and you’re trying on different designs and it’s a very static environment. You’re looking in a mirror and you’re seeing how something looks.
Now you can make that into a very interactive experience. I go into the fitting room, I try on a particular item, and now I want to try some different accessories. Now I want to look at some other colors. I can actually engage with that display. If you’re a fashion designer, suddenly you’ve created an endless aisle of opportunities for that customer.
“I can actually engage with that display.”
If you’re a retailer, the fitting room becomes another space where you can essentially engage and sell the consumer. And you really give shoppers another reason to want to come in … you give customers a brand new experience of your brand.
“You give shoppers another reason to want to come in.”
FWO: So the customers can see the garment on themselves, in the mirror? Ronald Gazzola: Yes, but the digital display can accept almost any type of content that can be developed. So you would work with a content provider to create the experience the particular retailer wants to create. So in one instance you may want to show different sizes or different colors of that garment. You may want to show accessories that fit well with that garment.
“You would work with a content provider to create the experience.”
You can really create an endless amount of engagement opportunities in that display. The beauty of the display is that it’s an endpoint through which the consumer and the retailer can engage with one another.
“The consumer and the retailer can engage with one another.”
FWO: And this sort of brings us to the idea of the “Internet of Things.” Obviously Samsung has a suite of products — like virtual reality for example — which is something that’s coming to market that’s very exciting. How do you foresee multiple Samsung products working together? Smartphones, GPS displays, virtual reality, to deliver a “Fashion Future: Powered by Samsung?” Ronald Gazzola: One of the exciting things is that we have such a broad portfolio of products, both in the consumer and enterprise space. And one of the commitments we’ve made to our customers is that we are going to lead IoT technology and connectivity. Our goal is to have all our devices connected by 2020.
“Our goal is to have all our devices connected by 2020.”
So when you think about that commitment in an R&D investment, now suddenly you have wearable devices, Samsung Gear VR, digital displays … all of those devices are operating together.
So the ability of those devices to “speak” together really creates a totally different and dynamic experience. And from a digital display perspective, we really look at the digital display as a sort of “window to IoT.”
The ability of the consumer and the business to now visualize and conceptualize all of that information — and that content — really makes it something a lot more tangible for the consumer and the business.
Interview with Ilaria Niccolini, Producer FTL Moda
Ilaria Niccolini, Producer FTL ModaFWO: Where do you foresee the future for FTL Moda in terms of shopping … and how do you think it will incorporate Samsung technology?
Ilaria: I could foresee incorporating the mirror displays into showrooms in New York, as well as in Tokyo, Paris, or Milan. Showroom space in these fashion capitals tends to be extremely expensive, and it’s really impossible to have an entire collection represented in those spaces. It’s really like having a magic wand.
You can finally think of representing an extended collection in the same environment where until just recently you could represent a very, very limited part of a collection.
Obviously the technology has many uses in and near fashion shows, as well, to drive engagement and real-time shopping.
FWO: This season’s FTL Moda featured Reshma Qureshi, an acid attack survivor from India. How do you think Samsung’s technology and the partnership this season with Samsung has allowed you to bring some of this social consciousness or some of this diversity to a larger audience? Ilaria: All these months of preparation for participation of Reshma have been extremely touching, very emotional for me. That’s the mission behind FTL Moda. We want to improve the world a little bit, one step at a time. When we partner with a brand like Samsung and a partner like Fashion Week Online — where we have the opportunity to provide service and content to a worldwide audience — it’s really fantastic. Reshma had never even dreamed of walking the runway. Now her message is reaching millions of people.
It could have been a flat activation: technology exists all over. But having Samsung working with us and supporting a shared vision was fantastic. Seeing Reshma was something that made the audience really happy. That’s why all these people left with such big smiles on their faces, because they really experienced something. And having the opportunity to distribute this live streaming via Fashion Week Online was an absolutely great experience.
“Having Samsung working with us and supporting a shared vision was fantastic.”
FWO: It’s exciting because as you mentioned, technology actually has the ability to bring people together.Ilaria: Yes.
FWO: One of the wonderful things about having Reshma was … when I first heard about the idea of hosting an acid attack survivor, I didn’t want to look. And the exciting thing is, looking is exactly what we need to do! Because the worst thing we can do is look away. One of the most painful parts of something like an acid attack I think is the social isolation that comes to the victim: because people are afraid; they’re afraid of having to see what’s happening in the world.
It was wonderful that so many people were supportive; there was so much press that came out in support of the runway show: not just in FWO, but in People, The Wall Street Journal, ABC News, CBS News, The Today Show, Washington Post, Teen Vogue, USA Today, Oxygen, Glamour, Elle … they all covered the show.
That’s the power of humanizing technology, and what happens when we work together.
And that’s exactly what we need, when somebody is hurting like this. We need to be there for them, and to not look away. So I think it’s a really exciting opportunity — especially with Samsung — to bring this to a large audience, and remind us that we’re all here together, working together. I want to thank you so much for letting us be a part of this journey, and all the things that you do with the diversity-enabling presentations at FTL Moda.
Ilaria: And I thank you, too. When it’s a good synergy, it puts together very good elements — creativity, technology, vision, communication, distribution. I hope to create more in the future.
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