According to designer Taofeek Abijako, “Fulfilling All Righteousness” — Head of State’s NYFW: Men‘s presentation — was the “analysis of social and cultural impact of colonialism in West Africa.”
The collection took inspiration from African contemporary photographers and artists such as Seydou Keita, Clic Clac Baby, Malick Sidibe, and Samuel Fosso.
Photo by Seydou KeitaHead of State | NYFW: Men’s
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“These photographers not only captured the effort of a society’s attempt to return to normality, but also the elegance and free spirited manner that filled the atmosphere of newly born nations in Western Africa.”
Intellectual gloss aside, the collection’s deft interpretation of improvised chic created a memorable collection, with skillful color blocking and inventive pairings that felt natural, even as they showcased a “2.0” street style sensibility.
Abijako is the kind of designer who makes the difficult appear effortless. We look forward to seeing more next season.
Designers often find inspiration in everyday surroundings. Designer Pamella DeVos found herself in her garden when the theme of her resort 2018 collection struck her.
The Pamella Roland customer wants color and comfort; so that’s exactly what Pamella gave them this season. The stand-out color was a rich, geranium red. The bold floral hue was complimented by the Bulgari jewelry sported by each model.
The presentation was held at Bulgari’s Upper East Side store, a perfect location to show off the new frocks to partygoers like Vanessa Williams.
The Pamella Roland customer wants color and comfort
My personal favorite look passed by as I sat down with Pamella to talk about her career and the collection. I could barely keep my eyes off of it (and my hands off the caviar). The short, strapless geranium color dress was covered in small 3D floral appliqués intertwined with clusters of geranium-colored sequins. When the light bounced off the diamonds and sequins peeking out, it reminded me of how drops of dew highlight the beauty and resilience of a flower after a rainstorm. Pamella said this was the “hero piece” of the collection.
The Resort Collection
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The InterviewQ: So what was your inspiration for this season’s collection?
It was my garden. I see all the flowers, and I think, “I need to do a resort collection on this.” It certainly had all the colors, and our customer wants color.
Q: There’s always this rich, deep color in your collection. I love that.
I am a person who wears black most of the time. But this is largely based on geranium color.
Look 31 – The “Hero Piece”Q: Isn’t it funny how that happens? What’s your hero piece for this collection?
This [Look 31, right] is pretty standout. I just helped somebody buy this for the mother of the bride. She looked amazing. She’s really going to stand out.
Q: So how would you describe the Pamella Roland aesthetic?
This sounds strange, but they’re for someone who’s very busy. I can never find gowns, so sometimes in the past, when I would look for gowns, they were difficult to put on. So these are very simple. They make women look great. We have a great fit.
these are very simple. They make women look great.
Q: It fits just like a glove. Love it.
We have beading and all that, but I still think it’s a very clean look, and again, easy to wear. I love that people say all the time, your dresses are so comfortable. You look at them, and you don’t think, “Oh, comfort!” Stores keep coming back to us and saying our sizes are great.
people say all the time, your dresses are so comfortable
Vanessa Williams, Pamella Roland, VIPQ: How do you think your brand has evolved since 2002?
Oh my gosh. For one, in the very beginning I made so many mistakes. I just didn’t really know what I was doing. I think we finally figured it out now.
Our style from day one has always been pretty good. Neiman Marcus picked us up our first show. So that’s pretty incredible, but there were just so many crazy things I did in the beginning.
Neiman Marcus picked us up our first show
Q: So what made you want to become a designer?
My whole life I was always really into clothes. I have two sisters. They didn’t care about fashion. My mom would be getting ready to go out, and I would be the one watching her. When I was 15 I got a job for a clothing store, and worked there seven years. But being from Michigan, and in the ’70s, you didn’t think about coming to New York. I was very much into the arts. My father said, “You’ll never make any money in the arts.” So I got my business degree. But it really wasn’t what I really wanted to do. I’m glad I have it, though, because it has helped me: even though I have not always listened to the budget. But it’s been great, because I have a creative side to me, and I was 40 years old when I started it.
Pamella RolandQ: So my last question would be, what’s next for you? What’s next for your brand?
You know, we dabbled in wedding dresses, and I just didn’t enjoy it. You know I’m approaching 60, so what do I really want to do? It wasn’t wedding dresses. So I got out of it. It’s a whole different business. I decorate a lot homes. I really enjoy that. So my daughter is helping me create some kind of home collection. I mean we are expanding, and international is about ready to overtake domestic.
Q: How exciting! And thank you.
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FWO
Goethe’s real-life romantic infatuation was the inspiration for Thomas Mann’s curious novella, Death in Venice: a story of aging, humiliation, and (many would say, inappropriate) obsession.
It’s not easy to draw the connection between Robert Geller’s latest collection and Gustav von Aschenbach, the main character in the novella: a man in his early fifties who seems to have a difficult time separating reality from fantasy. (I do think we can all identify with the fear of age that underpins the narrative, especially since our culture now trains people to fear their age beginning at 24 or so.) Fortunately, Geller’s collection is strong enough to exist without the trope.
At any rate, enjoy the photos of the collection presented at last week’s NYFW: Men’s, below.
Robert Geller | NYFW: Men’s
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“Separate from the ROBERT GELLER brand yet distilling the designers signature, GUSTAV VON ASCHENBACH begins with his fondness of new shapes and his exploration of color to create an entirely new collection: one that feels pure and minimal yet also warm and comforting.
“Color constitutes an integral part of the designer’s vocabulary. This season features cadmium red, ochre, concrete green, topaz, and black. These five colors were chosen for the mood they evoke and the way they interact with one another. When worn together they achieve balance and harmony, much like the paintings of Joseph Albers.
“The silhouettes strive toward purity: rounded shapes, oversized coats, boxy jackets, and roomy wide legged pants contemplate the space between fabric and the body, maximum comfort and ease, and result in a wardrobe that is modern and approachable.
“Comfort emanates from the Japanese textiles used throughout. These fabrics achieve a lightness and ease that is central to the collection. A familiar, worn-in feeling is found through washing and dying these garments. Collection textiles include Japanese linens and linen blends, washed cottons and a cotton-nylon blend. Robert Geller has created a collection that is easy to care for and easy to wear.”
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FWO
For his SS18 collection, Raun Larose took inspiration from the ’80s, seen through the lens of their impact on our current society, characterized mainly by the insertion of technology into mass culture, the birth of Silicon Valley, and the opulence of Wall Street.”Raun Larose | NYFW: Men’s
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(Photographer: Monet Lucki)
The designer transports us to the origins of the IBM movement, and entices us to take a look in the rear-view mirror, revisiting essential shapes from that time, however re-inventing and updating the silhouette: from “Wall treet power suits” to more casual garments, such as bomber jackets, hooded parkas, wind breakers, and metallic wide legged pants.
All silhouettes come to life in a somewhat romanticized, nerdy, yet exaggerated modern way.
The oversized shapes of jackets and pants speak to the opulence of the ’80s, while progressive fabrics allude to the increasingly artificial and virtual nature of reality: inorganic fabrics dominate, giving the collection a retro-futuristic feeling.
The stripes in the logos — designed by Portuguese artist Jose Chunà — call to mind the screen of a computer that’s about to crash. With the “singularity” in our not so distant future, this collection brings up questions about the future of a techno society: how did we look at technology back then, and where do we go from here.
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FWO
Marni Teamed Up With 11 Major Artists for Vogue’s 125th Anniversary
Each season, Marni collaborates with artists and charities to raise funds and awareness about different issues in the most fashionable way.
This time around, they partnered with Vogue in honor of Vogue’s 125th anniversary.
Vogue asked 11 international artists the ultimate question: “What is beauty?” Each artist interpreted their answer through a work of art, that Marni then produced on a series of tote bags and t-shirts, to raise money for the HIV/AIDS charities Born Free and God’s Love We Deliver.
Vogue asked 11 international artists the ultimate question: “What is beauty?”
For a Beautiful Cause
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With Vogue editors Virginia Smith, Selby Drummond, and writer Dodie Kazanjian hosting the event, it did not fall short of expectations. The launch was held at Marni’s Soho Store, attracting guests from the fashion and art world like Chris Gelinas and model Drake Burnette.
The pieces were on grand display, and ready to be purchased in-store. (You can still pick up some online.) Instead of the art being hidden away, hanging on a wall in an apartment, each piece’s artwork can be viewed by the world — all while carrying your everyday essentials.
each piece’s artwork can be viewed by the world
Each artist proposed a thought-provoking answer of their own to the “What is beauty?” question, naturally raising more questions from the viewer than providing answers. Some of the artists sought out a helping hand from artists of the past.
Francesco Clemente created a tree growing out of a rhino’s back. His answer was simply, “I cannot say it better than Rilke: ‘Beauty is the beginning of terror.’”
Ragnar Kjartansson gave his interpretation of the question with the words, “Have you ever tried to Google-image ‘beauty?’ — it is very depressing,” written on his tote “Untitled.” “I have never defined it myself, but my favorite definition is the Halldór Laxness quote from World Light: ‘Where the glacier meets the sky, the land ceases to be earthly, and the earth becomes one with the heavens; no sorrows live there anymore, and therefore joy is not necessary; beauty alone reigns there, beyond all demands.’”
Genieve Friggis gave us her answer through her modern interpretation of François Broucher’s eighteenth century French masterpieces for her shirt “The Muse Erato.” Friggis said Erato is “unsure, pausing — her own eye is a black vortex, not knowing how to react or perceive her own image.”
Every piece was fun, artful and sometimes satirical; providing a modern insight to the eternal question of “What is beauty?”
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FWO
We’ve long been believers that fashion week is changing for the better.
While no one disputes the importance of fashion week as an industry event, let’s face it: to quote Bob Dylan, “the times they are a-changin’.” Well, technically, they’ve already changed, and now we’re at the point in the lyrics where he sings “there’s no tellin’ who that it’s namin’.” (A little ambiguous, but what more do you expect from a genius? Ahem.)
So we were delighted to hear about NYFW: The Experience, a new opportunity to attend NYFW: The Shows.
NYFW: The Experience is a new opportunity to attend NYFW: The Shows
Apparently the packages are being offered in conjunction with Quint Events. We spoke to a very friendly, down-to-earth representative on the phone (no big city attitude here), who explained that they have a long and storied history creating similar experiences for sports events.
Depending on the package you choose, apparently you get to see a trunk show (basically a smaller runway show, as one might attend at the Galeries Lafayette in Paris), get a backstage tour, get your picture snapped, attend a show, meet some designers and models, and even get your hair done.
… meet some designers and models, and even get your hair done
XB OFCL by Brandon Sun | New York Fashion Week: Men’s
Entitled “Intentions Shatter,” this second collection from New York City transplant Brandon Sun reflects the concept of narrative contradiction prompted by his abrupt move to Los Angeles early last year.”XB OFCL by Brandon Sun | NYFW: Men’s
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Within a time of global discord and sudden change, one finds new opportunities to rethink one’s ideas. Sometimes the outcome to our actions is uncontrollable – despite our purest intentions.
In a raw reconstruction of active menswear, Brandon draws continuity and clarity in the chaos by using the simple Japanese knot, which binds panels of lightweight nylon in his military-inspired trench coats, track pants, and quilted bombers. The bold and simple knots symbolize a connection that in essence ties people together. The same knots appear on stripped poplin, French terry casual hoodies, pullovers, and the denim 5-pocket jeans which speak to the underlying need for comfort during extreme times of change.
Throughout the collection, military colors and symbols are contrasted with staunch Punk anthems set against poetic flower pins, symbolizing such classic anti-establishment ideas as resistance and love. The pins are a collaboration with photographer Aldo Carrera and can be seen strategically adorned on lapels, collars, pocket flats, and denim waist bands.
In moments of unexpected change, chaos and desperation, new ideas will always arise. Reflection along with intelligent reaction will lead us to find peace and beauty in a life that at first just seems as if it’s only falling apart.
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FWO
The garments created for the C2H4 “ZERO GRAVITY” Spring Summer 2018 collection resembled the laboratory work-wear for a group of chemists in the year 2082.”
The designer’s 2082 laboratory visualization is expressed through these costumes, created to cope with the meticulous lifestyle of the chemists encountered in Mars. The pieces are saturated, monochromatic color schemes that boast accents of cool blue, dynamic red, and urban yellow.
C2H4 presents garments that defy gravity.
C2H4 | NYFW: Men’s
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(Photographer: Lusha Alic)
Assembling a new batch of silhouettes, the collection offered a laboratory coat, utility vest, and a multifunctional anorak. Essentials for synthesizing the C2H4 wardrobe were the bottoms, consisting of technical sweatpants, pocket-filled cargo pants, and side-strap track pants.
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FWO
Fashion is just another accessory for someone who has great style. Raif Adelberg’s Spring/Summer 2018 collection for HERMAN was designed with that guy in mind. The strength comes from those who wears the clothes, and Raif trusts his consumer.”HERMAN Menswear | NYFW: Men’s
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Using personal drawings, designs from his own tattoos and references from his extensive career, Raif draws from the past and constructs appliqués of artwork and stamps/embroiders them throughout the collection.
The collection includes HERMAN’s signature reworked denim jackets with contrast of patterns from animal prints to bleach washes, continuing the “what’s new is old and what’s old is new” narrative of the brand. This season, the designer added a strong group of Japanese linen pieces in cream, light blue, navy pinstripe, and military green.
HERMAN is sold at 35 key retailers worldwide including Barney’s NY, Hirshleifers, Boon the Shop and Essence.
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FWO
Here are some images from Sanchez Kane’s latest collection as shown as New York Fashion Week Men’s.
The SS18 collection, designed by Barbara Sanchez Kane was inspired by her Mexican heritage and inner feelings. She used her personal journal entries and childhood memories to tell an intricate story that speaks to the trial and error of life.
Sanchez Kane| NYFW: Men’s
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Photos: Mike Carrera (AKLO)
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FWO
The road of excess leads to the palace of wisdom.” Or said William Blake. In a season heavily focused on politics and deeper meanings, it’s refreshing to see a bold, colorful collection that isn’t afraid to have a little fun.
“The collection was ideated around a hypothetical debauched clergy; The Young Pope, gone on safari and having returned to the Riviera with his cadre of louche associates -– sinful nuns, bishops, and cardinals, indulging their every carnal, Dionysian desire. Designed for the nomadic, artistic creative with a lascivious disposition in pursuit of a quixotic existence, Palmiers du Mal’s 2018.01 collection sees the Palmiers du Mal man embrace every romantic, libidinous inclination.”
Palmiers du Mal | NYFW: Men’s
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(Photos: Katie Thompson)
Inspired by universal, unisex shapes, Palmiers du Mal’s 2018.01 collection dives into a deeper narrative set around the idea of dismantling authority. In the philosophical tradition by which the brand is influenced, the 2018.01 collection calls into question “power,” and puts to task the authority figures who shaped our collective adolescence, probing the very foundations of their power. Rose Bar at Gramercy Park Hotel, a luxe Bohemian enclave adjacent to one of the few remaining private parks in Manhattan, provides a sumptuous, baroque canvas ideal for digesting the latest work from Palmiers du Mal, continuing down a road of creative decadence the brand openly celebrates.
“This season we truly embrace storytelling as a means of ascertaining clarity on the infinite questions our global climate presents to us,” says Creative Director Shane Fonner. “In the face of so much uncertainty, we more deeply explore the concept of Utopia; of living one’s ideal day in one’s ideal place – the creation of a reality in the fullest sense of the word. The collection is inspired by not only the abstract notions of a particular time and place, but also the community of people we choose to associate with and the physical structures we inhabit. I imagine a robust confrontation with aesthetics and the reality of the world around us, and as such my interests are leaning towards architecting entire physical spaces in conjunction with the collection that can render this search for Utopia possible. Gramercy Park Hotel provides the archetypical ambiance for my vision this season, and always.”
A progression from previous seasons, the collection adds in numerous new shapes, many of them completely gender agnostic. Capelets executed in luxe faux furs, Italian smoking jackets reeking of sensual, loungey evenings spent beneath the Mediterranean sky, and the re-emergence of caftans enhance the lasersharp resort focus for the brand, rendering casually elegant proportions draped in velvet and animal print. Luxury Japanese fabrics dominate the collection, with five innovative takes on the concept of a “formal lounge pant,” ideal for living that perfect day. A traditional military piece, the gunner smock is reincarnated in floral and zebra, featuring a racing stripe that resonates throughout the collection, and grounds the ecstaticism of the collection’s brazen textiles with a pale rose palette. The safari elements pair with the sunwashed colors of the “Spanish Riviera” and Barcelona’s Gracia neighborhood, where some of the collection was first sketched.
As a result, we see an exploration of colliding worlds, with brash Dalmatian print splashed against a creamy velvet, a wild French-made African tribal mask textile (exclusive to the brand) with soft silk rose piping atop sumptuous ecru French terrycloth. “The rules we’ve grown up abiding by no longer make sense,” says Fonner. “Despite the chaos around us, we can find and create beauty. Through transformation and creation of a physical space, like a hotel, which I hope to have the opportunity to pursue soon, I believe fashion can speak to a broader ethos, offering not just escapism, but hope.”
The fourth runway collection from the brand will show off-site at the legendary Gramercy Park Hotel and its rock and roll haven, Rose Bar, marking the first time the brand has moved from the traditional CFDA NYFW: Men’s runway venue. “Palmiers’ Mammal of Paradise unleashes his seditious side once more,” adds Fonner. “There’s an overt sensuality to this morning-after rock star vibe, and it feels very current. The Palmiers man is well-informed, global, and insightful, and this season he’s going inward to explore this overwhelming sense of helplessness in the face of the geo-political climate, indulging a nihilism that is broken only by a belief in freedom and beauty.”
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FWO
In a time of reflection, both internally and externally, literally and metaphorically, we continue to examine the core ethos and foundation of the brand Matiere.”
The “Reflections” collection explores the merging of eco-friendly fabrics with the use of metallic and reflective high-tech materials, stressing the importance of reducing global impact, while understanding the need for protective, functional comfort.
“It is a time to embrace the technical future while continuing to be respectful of our origins,” says the label. “With the radically changing climate and elements, we will continue to push boundaries, moving the needle forward, designing and developing a future of technical sustainability.”
It is a time to embrace the technical future while being respectful of our origins
Matiere | NYFW: Men’s
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MATIERE is inspired by the French word meaning “material” or “subject matter.” Established in 2013 by founders Henry Choi and Scot Shandalove, the Los Angeles, CA based design lab is continuously evolving the seamless integration of form, function, and comfort.
It was established in 2013 by Henry Choi and Scot Shandalove
They have a sleek, modern aesthetic, with an understated yet refined point of view. The brand’s global research and development of luxury fabrics is achieved in partnership with world-class knitting mills, from the Wakayama Prefecture of Japan to the woven technical expertise found in the Italian Province of Como. This drives the brand’s innovative collections, combined with experimentation in textile dyeing and production treatments.
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With love,
FWO