History and Facts about London Fashion Week

Squirrel Abrams
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History and Facts about London Fashion Week

History and Facts About London Fashion Week

London Fashion Week is a famous clothing tradeshow / series of fashion events that happens in London every year in February and September.

It is one of the mega four fashion shows with the other three comprising of the Milan, Paris and New York. The show is meant to showcase the imperative fashion designs from various dedicated designers. It is comprised of ‘’how to’’ and ‘’buy now’’ fashion show displays that are trying to win the interest of fashion enthusiasts from across the world.

A Brief History of the Show

London fashion Week first took place in October 1983. The British Fashion council and London Development Agency planned the whole event from calling of the designers to arrangement of the venue. The Department for Business, skills, and Innovation also spearheaded the arrangement of this show with an aim of promoting London’s fashion talents. After the first occurrence of the show, traders deemed it as opportunity to market their products, and they started funding the event. Currently, major noble investors like Mercedes-Benz, Toni & Guy are the ones funding the event.

Facts about London Fashion Week

In 1986, the royal leaders got interested with the show, they started to attend it. By then, it was very rare for dignitaries like the prime minister and even the local leaders to get concerned with such things. But to the surprise of every attendant in 1986, Margret Thatcher attended the show and stayed there for the whole week despite being a busy person. Fashion shows were by then not that developed and modern, they were just like street events meant to entertain the middle class and low-class people, but Margret proved people wrong after she parked her VIP cars and watched the whole event.

Stella McCartney, the now famous and triumphing fashion designer that is iconic in the show, joined in 1985 when she was still a student. Her entire collection made windfall sales after she presented in the summer spring shows due to how spectacular her designs were.

London Fashion Week supports the blogging community. In 2014 alone, 2,000 bloggers registered with the show to be allowed to air the contents of the show to the world. The content to be shared includes videos and photos of the show so that fans who don’t manage to attend can get a full recap of the whole event.

The British Fashion Council opened a fashion store to enshrine all the excellent fashion designs from the cutting edge fashion designers that rock in the show. Some concerned fans raised complain that they normally find it hard to access the contemporary fashion designs after attending the show. They wanted to get these trendy designs as quickly as possible, and so the BFC brought the initiative of opening the store where fans can directly order for the best fashions.

It is estimated that the show is attended by more than 5,000 people every year and it has orders that are worth £100 million which is a good gain to London as a whole. Owing to this economic significance, even the authorities facilitate the smooth occurrence of the show.

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London Fashion Week 2017 / 2018 Highlights

Squirrel Abrams
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London Fashion Week 2017 / 2018 Highlights

London Fashion Week 2017 included many memorable moments and introduced several trends. It took place, as always, right after New York Fashion Week, and the many of the fall trends that became in evidence on the NY runways continued on the catwalks of London. Below are some of highlights from the Fall 2017 season. Following the retail cycle, most of these looks are due to arrive in stores right after summer.

Neon and Sequins

Bling. It’s getting serious. It almost looked like designers wanted to blind people with all the sequin and neon clothing items that showcased in London. Halpern featured clothes inspired by disco glamour, while Molly Goddard splashed her items with acid colors. One look at Central Saint Martins’ line and you can see items that could have been worn by Boy George. Faustine Steinmetz, who is known to love denim, even glammed it up with a full sequin suit.

Politicking in the Runways

London designers also used London Fashion Week to express their views on various issues. (And there’s certainly a lot to have an opinion about these days.) Ashish continued with the sequined look, and they used the material to spell out slogans such as “Pussy Grabs Back” and “More Glitter Less Twitter.” Gareth Pugh had an all-back collection of tailored items as a response to the conflicts happening across the planet.

Models of All Ages

Some designers cast models who once would have been considered “too old” (whatever that means) to walk the runway. This new way of thinking was received with lots of applause. And the loudest applause was heard at the Simone Rocha show that featured women of all generations, which included Audrey Marnay and Benedetta Barzini. Gareth Pugh also cast Erin O’Connor to walk the runway.

Capes for Fall

While Burberry is known for their classic British trenches, the design company is also known for making capes. And that’s why Christopher Bailey featured capelets and capes made out of different materials that include lace and chain mail. The capes are available for custom order.

A Season for Cocktail Dresses

London Fashion Week 2017 also featured a lot of beautiful cocktail dresses. Christopher Kane featured pieces that had sequins and floral appliques in most of his finale frocks. J.W. Anderson showed an artsy line with chain mail-trimmed and feathered pieces. Anderson was full of ideas that included the use of contrasting fabric and peek-a-boo cutouts.

Mary Katrantzou and Erdem brought up dresses that were glittery, beaded, and sequined. They cocktail frocks will be popular on the party circuit. On the other hand, Roksanda didn’t use a lot of glitter on dresses, but the design house provided bright colored dresses that will surely be loved by shoppers in the near future.

From the complex ideas that were featured on the runways of J.W. Anderson to the red primrose patterns of Simone Rocha, last LFW showcased new concepts that are wearable not just in London, but all across the globe.

Stay tuned, because London Fashion Week Spring 2018 is set for September 15 – 19, 2017.

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Fashion+Music: Vanessa Paradis, Steve Nieve, Sting, Elvis Costello

Pablo Starr
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Fashion+Music: Vanessa Paradis, Steve Nieve, Sting, Elvis Costello

Conversation with Steve Nieve

Idon’t claim to be an expert on music, although I used to enjoy writing songs. I know I cried when I heard Lou Reed passed on, though I never met him personally. I know an album like ToGetHer by songwriter Steve Nieve, also Elvis Costello’s legendary keyboardist, is something to get excited about. And Vanessa Paradis’ involvement is yet another example of how music and fashion come together in inventive, always surprising ways.

In terms of lineup, the phrase “all-star” draws the quickest sketch. ToGetHer includes an array of talent including Elvis Costello, Sting, Laurie Anderson, Vanessa Paradis, Ron Sexsmith, Glenn Tilbrook, Joe Sumner, Harper Simon, and Tall Ulysse, among others.

It’s a bold, fun album that — like Steve Nieve’s opera Welcome to the Voice with Muriel Teodorio — is all about discoveries beyond the comfort zone.

 

 
Interview

Q: Tell us about ToGetHer. Your already inestimable skills are backed by an impressive array of talent, from Elvis Costello to Sting, Vanessa Paradis, Laurie Anderson, Ron Sexsmith, Robert Wyatt, Harper Simon, Joe Sumner and French-based musician Tall Ulysse. Not to mention artists like Cali and Alain Chamfort. How did the project come together, and how long was it in gestation?

Steve: While working on the opera Welcome to the Voice — the strange and unique jigsaw puzzle I composed with Muriel Teodori — we realised how much we loved the duets.

I recommend to you the last track, “Unlikely Duet” with Barbara Bonney, one of the world’s most beautiful sopranos, singing with Sting. This led me to go further, compose with different friends in mind and to go inside their different genres to explore how certain juxtapositions might build into a coherent, modern song cycle. And how much more interesting than to work alone!

This led me to go further, compose with different friends in mind and to go inside their different genres.

It took a long time to achieve, finding the good moment to mix so many of the killer voices I’d already encountered on my musical path. I decided on ToGetHer to build a sort of bridge between all the great artists I’d already had the pleasure to work with previously. So there are many links that bond the music and the writing and the recording of this allbum.

Q: The title ToGetHer obviously has contrapuntal meanings: “ToGetHer” being two people in union, and “to get her” implying quite the opposite: some period of yearning before or after such a union. What was the inspiration behind the title, if you care to share?

Steve: The first album of songs was Mumu, dedicated to my love Muriel. This new album began code-named Mumu Too, then it became 2Gether when the duet aspect took hold. And finally my friend Dominique Quessada, philosopher, author of L’Insepare came up with the idea of ToGetHer, which is beautiful, because it returns to the idea of desire, the desire to seduce someone, which is the only reason to make music, or to do anything on purpose.

Thinking about 2. Joe Sumner and Glenn Tilbrook sing on two tracks of the record. I met Glenn when I was fifteen, before Squeeze was baptised Squeeze, and that was the beginning of unclassical music for me. That’s why I am so happy he sang with me on “Nostalgia”. He immediately knew how to add his voice into the chorus “I do not miss you at all” and it really belongs there. And some of the song ideas are in pairs, like “Up” and “Vertigo” or “Burn the Past” and “Nostalgia”.

I met Glenn before Squeeze was baptized Squeeze, and that was the beginning of unclassical music for me.

Q: “You Lie Sweetly” also has a possible double meaning: picturing a lover in repose, or a bitter observation that one’s lover is lying. It reminds me of some of the wordplay from your old bandmate Elvis Costello. (“No many how many foreign bodies you can take,” from “You’ll Never Be a Man” — where your classical piano figure is so prominent — implying both a string of lovers or substance abuse as ways to prove manhood.) Did some of his wordplay inspire some of the wordplay and double meanings of ToGetHer?

Steve: You guessed correctly, “You Lie Sweetly” is my music, and my lifelong friend Elvis composed words on it. It was tricky, he told me, being so short a song with very short phrases. He did such a brilliant text, and yes he is the king of double entendre. Sting sings this composition in a longing, poignant voice; his interpretation recalls the tone of his Dowland lute album, and enhances the classical style of composition.

Elvis, since I was eighteen, has been a constant inspiration, not only because of his incessantly complex and demanding texts, but also because his melodies are always so interesting, a strong music that constantly takes surprising turns; he never goes where you expect.

Elvis wrote the words of “You Lie Sweetly,” and Sting sang.

I think I’m unable to match this fearless quality [Elvis] has. Although I have been part of his music, working with him now for over thirty years together, when I approach my music, I deliberately research something more fragile, less self assured. I think our different temperaments when we work together compliment each other because we have certain contrasts, and I certainly would never try to emulate his genius for wordplay.

I think I’m unable to match this fearless quality [Elvis] has.

I’m a great admirer of many different lyric writers, the very minimalist lyric writing of Eno, certain French songwriters like Alain Souchon, the wordplay of Alain Bashung. Lyrics to me are the most important aspect of a song, above the music certainly. And Elvis has been a close companion since my musical adventure began.

I’m a great admirer of many different lyric writers, the very minimalist lyric writing of Eno, certain French songwriters like Alain Souchon, the wordplay of Alain Bashung.

 
Q: There’s such sadness in this album. “Halloween (Bonfire Night)” is a particularly touching track. The lyrics are amazing. And such a heartbreakingly beautiful melody. Everyone should hear it.

Steve: Well, when Muriel and I produced the first workshop version of Welcome to the Voice, Ron played the part of the Friend (which, on the Deutsche Gramaphon recording, Robert Wyatt interpreted for us).

These two men are such beautiful singers, voices of velvet and silk; they have jazz deep in their bones. The way they phrase is so cool, it’s very interesting. They place the notes in the bar, in such a sexy laid-back rhythm, it would be challenging to notate exactly. I hope there will be future projects that bring me back to work again with Robert and Ron. Check out “Happiness” on Welcome to the Voice.

Ron and Robert are such beautiful singers, voices of velvet and silk; they have jazz deep in their bones.

Q: I’m a huge Robert Wyatt fan. I think he’s what many artists would like to be, but fall short: someone who truly creates art for its own sake, and as such is able to explore anything, break every rule, with a kind of fearless aplomb. Likewise, you tackle almost every genre conceivable on this album. What was it like working with him? And what’s your feeling about the line between commercialism and art?

Steve: It’s always fascinating working with Robert because he is so smart, and speaks enthusiastically about everything in a thought-provoking way. He’s a rascal, and a prince, and he has such an ear for music, and working with him is like working with a Master composer. His melodies are truly original and unbelievable: take “Maryan”, how did he find that?

He is like Ravel, very complex; a brilliant arranger, too. Then his lyrics, I’m always completely blown away by Robert’s texts like “So when I say that I know me, how can I know that? What kind of spider understands arachnophobia? I have my senses and my sense of having senses. Do I guide them? Or they me?” Just reading it brings tears to your eyes, let alone hearing him sing it.

Wyatt is like Ravel, very complex; a brilliant arranger, too.

Commercialism and art? I recently attended a vernissage of Pete Doherty, who arrived to sing a few songs at the Gallery on the shabby outskirts of Paris, dressed in a Russian Red Army uniform. He created some blood paintings, using the blood of Amy Winehouse. 20,000 euros apiece. I leave you to tell me the limit between commerce and art?

Blood paintings, using the blood of Amy Winehouse, 20,000 euros apiece.

Q: Now let’s talk about your collaboration with Vanessa Paradis. How did that collaboration come about, and what was it like working with her?

Steve: I met Vanessa when she released her record Bliss, and I worked as her musical director for the touring behind that album.

Benmont Tench played most of the keys on that record; Vanessa’s music is very keyboard-orientated, so I had my work cut out for me. We’ve stayed friends ever since.

Vanessa is a superb actress; recently she’s done some of her finest work and is on an ascending peak.

She was extraordinary in Cafe de Flore, and her Jacqueline is the incarnation of a perfect love, from total generosity, to utter selfishness — a tour de force.

Vanessa is a superb actress; recently she’s done some of her finest work and is on an ascending peak

Writing “Conversation” for her was necessary for me, because I am terribly shy; it looks like such good fun when people are discussing, why, for me is it like rafting down rapids?

If you want the excitement, you have to risk the danger factor. It was the first duet I recorded on ToGetHer, and thanks to Vanessa’s determination to sing that song with me, the ToGetHer journey began, and the album steered its own course.

Vanessa put all her energy into singing that lyric with me, her elegance and grace, and I would love a DJ to do a remix with just her voice singing.

If you want the excitement, you have to risk the danger factor.

Q: “Save The World” was a collaboration with French-based artist Tall Ulysse. Is the song a refutation of those who would save the world, or does it contain a message of support? I volunteered in the slums of Kenya and still sponsor four kids there, so I know from experience that there’s often a painfully disappointing divide between idealism and the harsh realities of trying to help others.

Steve: There is a feeling of irony in the “no doubt” because I can’t help but doubt, seeing the disastrous mistakes that big corporations continue to inflict on people and on nature, greedily, just to make money. It’s an awkward subject for a song. I was impressed by an interview of Robert Wyatt where he was saying, we can’t do anything except bear witness to it all. I was also moved by Tall’s powerful heroic anthemic rock music. He added some exciting harmony lines to “Save the World” … our voices blend so well.

 
Tall Ulysse played all the drums on ToGetHer; I like the fluidity of his style, which goes really well with my playing. We played many times in duo, piano and drums, and I know we will continue to make music together. I want to work with young people. Some of the best moments of this record for me have been discovering new music and fresh ideas with Harper Simon, Tall Ulysse and Joe Sumner. Kids of the eighties have a different musical viewpoint than someone like me, and that’s really interesting and invigorating.

Some of the best moments of this record for me have been discovering new music and fresh ideas with Harper Simon, Tall Ulysse and Joe Sumner.

Q: There’s so much to try and canvas in the scope of this interview. What else can you tell us? What’s next? Touring? Rest? Another album?

Steve: Unlikely Production. Certainly, Muriel Teodori deserves a lot of credit for this album. She is a force of nature, a person who brings out the best in others, who thrives on collaborations with different artists, has an understanding of music that constantly inspires, she sings great, and she knows everything about everything.

Her brain is a wonder of the universe and is constantly steering me into all kinds of adventures. She is the mother of all muses, my Mnemosyne, and it’s for sure that the two records I’m most proud of Welcome to the Voice and ToGetHer are Muriel Teodori records. I can’t wait; my life is an ongoing project, with her.

Muriel is the mother of all muses, my Mnemosyne.

 
Listen to Halloween (“Bonfire Night”).

 
BUY IT NOW

You can purchase ToGetHer on iTunes, Amazon.com and Amazon.fr. (Special French Christmas version.)

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Steve Nieve | Website | Facebook | Twitter

On 429 Records

On Verycords (French label)

Hervé Léger by Max Azria Spring-Summer 2014

Pablo Starr
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Hervé Léger by Max Azria Spring-Summer 2014

“Wild civility.” In Robert Herrick’s “Delight in Disorder,” the poet speaks of the interplay between restraint and liberation; of the desire for control and civility on one hand, and the need to express more primal yearnings on the other. In a sense, this has always been the terrain of the Herve Leger house.

For Spring 2014, Max Azria harnessed geometric abstraction to deliver an adventurous collection equal parts sophisticated and wild. Zipper details, crochet, jacquards, fringe and beading added depth and dimension to a palette of black, white and grey, enriched with gradient blues and soft neutrals. Printed jersey separates and crisp petticoats were layered within the architectural silhouette to create new form. Structured corset belts emphasized her seductive side, while geometric heels gave a refined edge.

The Herve Leger woman is powerful, sophisticated and uncompromising. If there’s one designer today whose looks would be at home on any Helmut Newton model, surely that designer is Max Azria.

 
[portfolio_slideshow id=2770 width=”500″]

 
[portfolio_slideshow id=2771 width=”500″]

SHOW CREDITS

Show Direction: LYNNE O’NEILL
Stylist: LAURA FERRARA
Casting: JESS HALLETT
Hair: LAURENT PHILIPPON FOR BUMBLE AND BUMBLE
Makeup: VAL GARLAND AND THE SEPHORA PRO TEAM FOR SEPHORA
Nails: OPI
Music: FREDERIC SANCHEZ
Set Construction: BERNHARD LINK THEATRICAL
Lighting: IMCD LIGHTING
Dressers: QUICK CHANGE ARTISTRY
Undergarments: SHIBUE COUTURE

Models

ALEX – LIONS
ALLA – SUPREME
ANDIE – IMG
ANTONINA – IMG
CHARLOTTE – SUPREME
ERJONA – SOCIETY
GRACE – IMG
IEVA – SUPREME
JAC – IMG
JASMINE – IMG
JOSEPHINE – SOCIETY
KATE – IMG
KATLIN – IMG
LAIS – WOMEN
LIEVE – SOCIETY
LISANNE – NEW YORK MODEL MANAGEMENT
MACKENZIE – SOCIETY
MANON – WILHELMINA
MANUELA – SOCIETY
MARTHA – IMG
MIJO – IMG
PATRYCJA – NEXT
PAULINE – SOCIETY
VASILISA – SUPREME
VIKA – IMG

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The Gifted: An Inside Look at Celebrity Stylist Sam Russell’s The Giving Closet

FWO
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The Gifted: An Inside Look at Celebrity Stylist Sam Russell’s The Giving Closet

by Egomeli Hormeku

Fashion is always looking for the next big thing. Which means photographers, models, designers, editors and stylists are continuously pushing themselves onward and upward. Sam Russell is not the next big thing. He is the now; an underground staple in the fashion industry. In conjunction with Red Light PR, his project The Giving Closet is a one-way-ticket to mainstream glory.

Sam Russell Logo

It was Friday, a crisp fall day in October and I’m greeted by Tiffany, an Account Executive from Red Light PR who gives me a rundown on what was to happen. I was in for a huge surprise walking into Red Light PR New York expecting another high quality fashion function with the same story of the new brand that wants to take the fashion world by storm. However, what happened took the term brand awareness to another level.

Alex Blaszczuk, a third year law student at Columbia University, is the survivor of a car accident that resulted in paralysis, leaving her to live everyday with physical assistance. She did not know a celebrity stylist who decided to boost her look with a $10,000 wardrobe and his accomplice, her loving friend William, were about to give her the news. The moments before the surprise was a sight to see. Alex engaged in conversation with the most wonderful energy. She told her story of a driver who lost control of the car before an 8am camping trip reaching for a coffee cup, leading to a rear end accident that changed her life forever.

While the small talk continued, Alex made it clear that her positive attitude, demeanor, and spirituality came from mentors with regenerative and mobility impairments who defied the odds placed on them by their peers. Surrounding her were racks of clothes that I would describe just as I would describe her; pretty, subtle, soft, simple yet still inspirational. Sam Russell, although respected enough to assume he was another daunting heavyweight in the stylist world by resume alone, stands out in the crowd with his sentimental and organic approach to fashion, his career, and endearing fashion gems in everyday conversation. I heard more about what he did from the chatter around him. The Giving Closet is a fantasy come true and Sam Russell was this magician who transformed the closets and lives of everyday women into fine-tuned, sexy, and sophisticated spaces to die for. On this perfect fall Friday in Manhattan, he was ready to perform his eighth trick.

Interns and fashion students start to gather and I begin to see space being made for the announcement, all part of Red Light PR’s master plan to show the true power of PR, and how the stories such as The Giving Closet, often overlooked or drowned out by the glamour of the industry, is actually the glue that holds the runway and the real world together.

Sam gets the attention of everyone while conversing with Alex and gracefully intertwines the surprise. The loft erupts. Emotions are high. The interns gasped as Alex and Sam went through some of the pieces with oohs and aahs filling the room with each unveiled piece. I was told that an onlooker could almost see the wave of chills felt by all in attendance. I was not aware of it because it was impossible to take my eyes off of the two stars. I had to speak with Sam and Alex about what the story leading up to this point and where they go from here now they their paths have crossed.

alex-sam3

Q: Alex, the energy is high and you are probably going to give me answers as honest as anyone right now. What is the best thing you love about fashion/favorite thing?

Alex: It can really reflect who you are. You can wear something that makes a statement without having to make that statement aloud.

Q: …Because it seems like you gravitated to some of the pieces and very interested in everything. what’s the first thing you saw that made you say “I like to dress up.”?

It can really reflect who you are.

Alex: I moved to New York in 2008 and I realized there is something called fashion week. I think saw the shoes from the Calvin Klein collection on the street one day. Having come from the suburbs of Chicago, if someone told me about fashion shows or the idea of Fashion Week, I automatically thought those are clothes you could not wear every day. Then, I see the shoes and think, “That women is wearing the shoes from the runway on the street. I think that was the moment of transitioning. I told myself I could pull that off. I could pull that off and I can look good in it, too.

Q: When did you realize you wanted to become a lawyer?

Alex: I was considering doing a PhD in philosophy after my Masters, but realized I wanted more practical application of the theoretical ideas I was studying. I love knowing how the world works!

Q: What do you see yourself getting into? Talk to us about law and fashion. It seems like you’d be great at Fashion Intellectual Property or Mergers and Acquisitions.

Alex: I think people associate fashion with looking good but there is so much to do behind-the-scenes. Just think about the Mergers And Acquisitions with a fashion titan like LVMH (Louis Vuitton Moet Hennessey Corporation). Lawyers have to be in place and also know the business. I want to be part of that background work. Something really cool about being a lawyer is learning how a brand works behind the scenes. In order for the show to work, someone has to keep everything intact behind the curtain.

Q: You’re almost done with school. How do you think the fashion will help in your interviews and everyday life?

Alex: After I was injured in the car accident, I had a lot of trouble deciding what my style was going to be and I don’t like the feeling of looking like I’m a dress up doll. I literally need help getting dressed these days. I still wanted it to be a reflection of who I am.

Q: How would you define your style?

Alex: What I like doing is having an understated style with a, “Wait… What is that little thing she is wearing?” going on. Something has to be bit different. I want people to say, “She thought about her outfit today and I like it a lot.”

SamandAlexTalk

Q: What was the first article of clothing you ever loved?

Alex: I always fall in love with my clothes and end up wearing the same outfit over and over, because I love it. Probably the first thing I ever did that with was a Snoopy sweatshirt I had when I was three or four years old.

Q: How will Sam and a day like today add to your story?

Alex: Sam reminded me that I can continue loving the clothes I wear and getting excited about fashion!

Q: Describe the general process you go through when you get dressed (physically, mentally, emotionally).

Alex: Since I get assistance in getting dressed, it involves a lot of calm, direction and spiritual transcendence. And planning!

Q: What are fashion pieces you can’t live without?

Alex: Boots and scarves. Definitely.

Q: Describe your emotions before and after the big announcement.

Alex: Confusion before and complete and utter shock and excitement after.

Q: Where do you get your everyday inspiration?

Alex: It’s all about how I’m feeling that day! Sometimes I see a detail I like somewhere in a movie or in the street and I try to incorporate that.

Q: Do you have any advice for people that have gone through what you go through?

Alex: People don’t realize that I can still be vain. It’s a frustration. “Well Alex, why do you want to put on make up?” Things like that. Now, I have the tools to feel fashionable regardless of what others think I should look like.

People will try to take away your vanity. They will tell you to just focus on physical therapy and survive. Hold on to that vanity. I want to look pretty, too. Hold onto the way you want to look. Yes, style is different when your appearance is different but that does not mean it goes away. You can still own it. You may have to think about it a little bit longer but that does not mean a thing.

Q: I’m going to make a firm prediction and say you will be the best dressed 3L in the history of Columbia Law School. How does it feel?

Alex: (Laughs.) I’m really excited! It feels great.

Q: Let’s talk to the man behind this amazing idea, The Giving Closet. Sam, when did you realize you wanted to become a stylist?

Sam Russell: I have always used fashion to help tell my personal narrative. There is a power in attracting and entertaining people with your fashion choices. Early on, I was aware of that. Working in Texas as an actor/model in my mid-20’s, this art director approached me at a party and commented on my sense of style. Vickie Snow suggested I become a stylist and had me follow her on a few photo shoots for no pay. Funny thing, an unrelated friend offered me a styling job two weeks later. The universe had a plan for me.

Q: What made you pick this as what you want to do? When did you say The Giving Closet is where you spread random acts of kindness in the fashion world and be great at it?

Sam Russell: Thank you. I was in Hollywood for twelve and half years with a very exciting prosperous career. I was coming out of a really bad relationship and searching for the next chapter of my life. I had a client’s girlfriend who was always hounding me for a free pair of shoes but she had this 2.5 million dollar home and always flying off to Australia for trips. She always called me when she wanted free stuff. I just thought to myself if I can just reroute a portion of what I can get my hands on and give them to great women who can benefit, then I’d rather spend my time doing that. You can’t convince all the publicists and designers to stop gifting. It’s part of the business. However, if they could just re-route a small portion of it to really great people with great stories, the recipient is going to be a fan for life. That word of mouth is priceless. This society is so divided in politics, gay versus straight, rich versus poor. We have so much in common and once we can see and go back to that, we will be stronger and grow spiritually. That is my journey in fashion. No one told me to be here. No one pays me to be here. This is me.

Q: Wow. When did you fall in love with fashion?

Sam Russell: Fashion helps our narrative. You can tell whether someone is in a good mood or bad mood by how they pull themselves together. Going back to my childhood, I grew up in a very stormy household. My dad was very abusive but my mom, through all of that, was able to focus on her studies, her career, and being the best mom she could be with her boys. She pulled herself together everyday. Even though I have these memories of the bad times, I distinctly remember my mother pulling it together head to toe. From hair to handbags, I fell in love when I saw her get through the week, impress her boss, and excel at her job for almost 40 yrs. For The Giving Closet, I see my mom in all of these stories. For some reason, they all make a connection to me.

Q: What was the first article of clothing you ever loved?

Sam Russell: My earliest memories are of my t-shirt collection. “I shot JR” and “Battlestar Galactica”, you could not get me out of those. In Junior High, I had every pair of parachute pants in every color. Ty Hunter, Beyonce’s wardrobe stylist, also went to the same school as me in Austin. I recall him dabbling in that parachute craze. We bumped into each other at the 2009 Presidential Inauguration in DC. He was with Beyonce and I was with Stevie Wonder.

Q: I like to think of you as this fashion philanthropist. Where would you like to take this cause/initiative?

Sam Russell: Thank you for for that!

The goal is to prove that fashion has a heart, so I guess I will gladly wear that badge. We are all so lucky to work in such a creative and expressive field. I want more and more of these public relations budgets re-routed to real people in need with amazing stories of triumph and perseverance. Producers in Los Angeles keep bugging me to turn this into a show. We shall see, the timing has to be right and so does the crew. I am not doing this for my ego or for the money. Look at what happened to the Nate Berkus Show.

Q: Describe the general process you go through while styling and realizing a piece of clothing is the right fit.

Sam Russell: So many factors have to fall into place. I look at the woman’s lifestyle, body type, and skin tone. I close my eyes and imagine the type of friends she might have and what they would say about her new wardrobe upgrade. Alex will not benefit from six-inch heels. The more something drapes and is less restrictive, the more comfortable she will be in it. Alex has a caretaker that helps dress her. The outfits cannot be too complicated with lots of bells and whistles.

Q: What is one trend you tend to pull most often?

Sam Russell: Fun and expressive jewelry. Good accessories will make or break your outfit. I want each of these women to have unique and strong accessories that I hand select for them. This is a surefire way to freshen up your image instantly.

Q: How long have you worked as a stylist? What is the one lesson you’ve learned from styling everyday heroes to A list celebrities?

Sam Russell: I started in 1996 as an editorial and advertising wardrobe stylist in Houston, TX. On the side I would help aspiring models with their portfolios. I was personally mentored by Page Parkes & a great designer by the name of Richard Tyler. Page Parkes really pushed for me to leave Texas and try out Los Angeles. One lesson I have learned from styling such a range of personalities is that there is so much that connects us all. The fears and pains and joys and highs of life are quite universal.

Q: What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing?

Sam Russell: Intent. Did the designer want to set the bar high in comfort and/or design? Or, were they looking to get rich quick and sell just anything to the masses? Did the team that brought you that polo with a logo plastered on the front just turn you into a walking billboard for them? What was the intent of everyone involved is what I ponder when I look at clothing.

Q: Do we make the clothes or do the clothes make us?

Sam Russell: Both. New clothes are very empowering. A single mom going back to school to further her education with 5 kids greatly benefits from one of these surprises. Last year, The Giving Closet caught Shenee off guard in Long Island. She was gifted 13 pairs of shoes and a full rack of clothes. She only owned two heels at that time. She now has an extra pep in her step and her employer noticed. She got a pay raise weeks later.

Q: Do you consider yourself an artist?

Sam Russell: I do not enjoy politics, so I must be an artist. Growing up in Austin was the perfect backdrop for appreciating art. I am an artist in every way. Energy, synchronicity, magic, art and “artistic types” of people speak to my soul. I have lived a very colorful life, greatly influenced by the arts.

Q: What’s your favorite part about conceptualizing a look for someone?

Sam Russell: Showing it to them. Telling someone in a kind, but direct way that with a good pair of shoes and a deep hair conditioner, they too can be red carpet ready.

Q: Talk to us about how you felt moments after you presented Alex with a surprise wardrobe.

Sam Russell: Relief. It was a month in the planning. While in Los Angeles for work, I hit up a few showrooms and brought back two suitcases full of clothes for her. She was completely surprised and I was so glad that we pulled it off. Before bed I had a good cry and thanked the universe for connecting me to her. It was all meant to be.

Q: Let’s talk about these pieces and the process. I see a great balance between ideal and comfort. There was one piece in particular ( red flats with detailed gem encrusted skulls) showed an innovative take on a very traditional shoe.

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Sam Russell: I looked at her body type and shoulders. She likes earth tones. I wanted to please her but also pull her out of her comfort zone a little bit. It was all about finding things that will accentuate her but take her elsewhere. She’ll love the elsewhere. She’ll have fun putting these things on.

*Alex chimes in with “Oh, I will have so much fun!*

Q: What advice do you have for aspiring stylists?

Sam Russell:

Separate your ego from your work. Clients have lots on their plates and they do not want or deserve any guff from the hair, make-up or styling team. But at the same time do not let people abuse you or manipulate you. Oh… P.S. Young models and high maintenance actors steal clothes.

Q: How would you define your personal style?

Sam Russell: On Alex’s big day, I wore my Alexander McQueen dinner jacket over a quirky t-shirt that I picked up in Echo Park, CA. That is my style. Off the beaten track designers intertwined with more established names.

Q: Where do you get your inspiration?

Sam Russell: Kindness is inspiring. Whether I am sitting at LAX or on a long drive, I get inspired easily. I needed a break from living in Los Angeles. For two years now, my life has been on four acres in the DC suburbs with my partner surrounded by nature. Lots to be grateful for.

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ABOUT E. K. HORMEKU

E. K. Hormeku is the Editor In Chief of Fashion Week Online and Owner of The Hormeku Group Lifestyle Conglomerate.

Dolce & Gabbana Summer 2013 Runway Makeup Tutorial

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Dolce & Gabbana Summer 2013 Runway Makeup Tutorial

FWO Style Presents

Here we are: the final, glorious (or maybe not-so-glorious) days of summer 2013. And in just three weeks, the 2014 spring / summer collections will hit the runways of New York, London, Milan then Paris.

But as there are still some summer days left in this season, we thought some runway beauty tips might be in order. Enjoy!

New York Fashion Week begins September 5!

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New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2014 Countdown Begins!

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New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2014 Countdown Begins!

New York Fashion Week Spring-Summer 2014

 
We’ll have the full LIVE-STREAMING schedule posted here soon, so stay tuned!

Necks Appeal: Interview With Alexander Olch

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Necks Appeal: Interview With Alexander Olch

 
NECKS APPEAL

Secrets of a Master Tie-Maker

 
by P. Lopez with Egomeli Hormeku

Meet Alexander Olch, master tie-maker.

Q: When did you realize you wanted to become a designer?

Not sure if there was a moment. It’s been a long journey.

Q: How does designing men’s accessories differ from designing clothes?

It’s exciting to design items / objects that are intended to accompany other items / clothes / outfits. In a way, more interesting that designing items which are intended to stand alone.

It’s exciting to design items intended to accompany other items.

Q: Who are some of your favorite designers now?

Christophe Decarnin, Masaya Kuroki.

Q: Do you consider yourself an artist?

On a really good day.

Q: What’s your favorite part about conceptualizing a design?

When I feel so good about a pattern that I’d want to surround myself completely in it, have wallpaper made of it.

Q: What advice do you have for aspiring designers?

Design what you feel proud of – even if everyone says it sucks, ignores you, and tells you to get a different job. If you can honestly believe in your work that much, you will succeed.

Design what you feel proud of.

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Q: What do you like best and dislike most about designing?

The best part is to debut something new, that people have never seen before. The worst is having to do it so quickly, every season, every 3-6 months.

Q: How would you define your personal style and the style your line exemplifies?

My collection is entirely personal. It is what I wear I everyday. In a way it’s about contrast: somewhere between downtown and uptown, between formal and messy, between old-fashioned and new.

It’s about contrast: somewhere between downtown and uptown, between formal and messy.

Q: Where do you get your inspiration?

I look around and start thinking, what would I like to wear for the next six months? I’ll be stuck wearing this stuff, so I had better make it look good.

I look around and start thinking, what would I like to wear for the next six months?

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ABOUT EGOMELI HORMEKU

Egomeli is Editor in Chief of Fashion Week Online, and creator of The Hormeku Group.

Interview With Designer Danielle Zaslavskaya

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Interview With Designer Danielle Zaslavskaya

Introducing Danielle Zaslavskaya

 
by Egomeli Hormeku

Danielle Zaslavskaya is being hailed as a young designer to watch, having worked closely with Italian factory MASSARDI, whose client list includes Dolce & Gabbana, Rick Owens, Y-3, and Roberto Cavalli.

[portfolio_slideshow id=1183 width=”450″]

Q: What does fashion mean to you?

It’s not what fashion means, but what fashion does. It evokes feelings and sometimes the most memorable of memories.

It’s not what fashion means, but what fashion does.

Q: When did you realize you wanted to become a fashion designer?

At nine years old. I use to draw paper dolls and draw different outfits for them, that I would cut out and paper clip to their bodies. I think it also stemmed from the numerous amounts of overstuffed boxes with Barbie clothes that filled most of my bedroom floor. It was then I realized I was destined to become a fashion designer.

Q: What was the first article of clothing you ever designed?

A shift dress from a pattern I bought at a fabric store. I was trying to make a dress for my freshman year homecoming dance. The dress turned out horrible; I sewed the wrong pieces together and the seams weren’t straight. Shortly after, I took a fashion design and sewing class in my High School. My art began to escalate as I began to grow and establish an individual look.

I sewed the wrong pieces together and the seams weren’t straight.

Q: You’ve been called a young designer to watch in some circles. Are you feeling any pressure or are you ready for the stage?

I’m beyond ready! I see my vision and I know my customer. My imagination is constantly flowing with ideas. I have visions with beautiful caftans flowing in the wind and stampedes of long legged women walking around cobblestone streets of Moscow, wearing my fox stoles.  The creative process never stops and it never will.

I see my vision and I know my customer.

Q: Describe the general process you go through to design and realize a piece of clothing.

I’m always pulling images from The New York Public Library and using some of my own photos that I take at random moments in my life.

I love scanning them and then layering them and distorting them in Photoshop and Illustrator to see how far I can push something literal into something figurative. After that, it helps me figure out the tone and season I will be focusing on.

I tend to work backward, and design the clothing without knowing my set color and fabric story. Once I draw up fifty potential looks, I go rummaging in the garment district for hours looking through piles of fabrics in the stores. It always easier for me that way, because having my fabric swatches first limits me in silhouette ideas. It’s always easier to go back in and make adjustments.

Once I draw up fifty potential looks, I go rummaging in the garment district for hours.

Q: Who are some of your favorite designers now?

I’ve always been an admirer of Ralph Lauren and his clean-stylized lines and silhouettes. His style really took on a lot in my design decisions, which lead me to discover Phoebe Philo, Stella McCartney, Raf Simons and Azzedine Alaia. They most influence me because they’re able to take basic structured silhouettes and transform them into beautiful ensembles that highlight the many personalities of a woman.

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Q: How long have you worked as a designer?

I’ve been designing since I was in high school. My mother found a magnate school in Miami called Design and Architecture Senior High.

They specialized in many different programs, one of them being fashion. I took classes for three years and learned a tremendous amount about fashion, as well as myself. I guess you can say it was love at first stitch. The school opened up many doors and opportunities, letting me show for Miami Fashion Week and Art Basel.

Later, I went to Parsons The New School for Design and really developed myself as a designer. I recently graduated from there with a BFA and a kick-ass thesis collection.

Q: What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing?

Compromise and sleepless nights.

Q: Do you consider yourself an artist?

Yes. I go through the same processes in designing clothing that an artist goes through creating any other piece. I’m always critiqued and never know how I will be received; there’s a rush and sense of urgency in that. I think most artists would agree.

Q: What’s your favorite part about conceptualizing a design?

I come up with ideas all the time, and sometimes there’s a struggle, because I’m not sure which ideas and elements I want to use in my concept. Sometimes I don’t want to overdo it, but then there’s always that part of me that’s scared to save an idea for another season, because someone else might think of it.

When I do figure out the main concept, I love too see how my interpretation of it changes through many months of work. Your “a-ha” moments become the pivotal turning points in your career.

Q: What advice do you have for aspiring fashion designers?

Always trust yourself and never compare yourself to another designer. The easiest way to fail and let yourself down is by thinking someone is better than you, or is able to create exquisite pieces that you can never come up with. Always remember, there’s that one person who will appreciate and love your work, and that ONE is all you need..

All you need is that ONE person who will appreciate and love your work.

Q: What do you like best and dislike most about designing clothes?

The best thing about designing clothes is being able to take your expressions out on fabric. What I dislike most about designing is when I have to cut back certain looks and ideas. When I’m working hard, I always want to show everyone all the things I’ve come up with. The problem when you’re making a collection is, there needs to be consistency between the color story and the silhouettes.

The problem when you’re making a collection is, there needs to be consistency between the color story and the silhouettes.

Q: How would you define your personal style and the style your line exemplifies?

In some cases I am my own customer, but that really depends on the season. I really love to dress myself in the fall and winter.

There’s something whimsical about being able to drown your body in fabric and accessories. Sweater, coats, fishnets, hats, rings, and boots all lend themselves to my personal style.

I also think people are more attractive during the cold months because everyone looks fresh, hair dues always stay, skin is always clean and people are forced to put more effort into their dressing habits, because outfits can easily look more repetitive.

I think the layering stays consistent in my line no matter what season it may be. I do wear floral and lots of color during the summer months, but my line lacks those elements because my customer is more about playing with layers and tactile fabrics.

Q: What are some of your fashion goals? Life goals?

My goals are never-ending; there are so many things I can’t wait to dip my feet into. My main interests do lie in fashion and I hope to launch my brand soon and open a store in New York and Miami. My best friends and I also started a separate brand called ‘Zero Characters,’ that will launch in Spring 2014.

It’s a collaborative line that focuses on street wear and joining the many characters, personalities, religions and pop culture that make up New York.

Q: Where do you get your inspiration?

Most of my inspiration comes from my travels and people I’ve met.

The places that have influenced my inspiration the most have been Kiev, Israel, Copenhagen, and Paris.

I can tell you one thing; I always go back to modern Russian culture and get my source of inspiration from women in society. Women like Miroslava Duma, Ulyana Sergeenko, Vika Gazinskaya and Oxana On have all filled my sketchbook pages.

Russian women really maintain their appearances and always overdress, which makes them fabulous. Growing up in the Ukraine, you’ll never see a woman in the grocery store without heels and make-up on. It’s always such an orchestrated event.

I always go back to modern Russian culture and get my source of inspiration from women in society

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ABOUT EGOMELI HORMEKU

Egomeli is Editor in Chief of Fashion Week Online, and creator of The Hormeku Group.

Interview With Fashion Editor Claire Sulmers

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Interview With Fashion Editor Claire Sulmers

Interview With Claire Sulmers

 
by Egomeli Hormeku

Claire Siobhan Sulmers, who graduated magna cum laude from Harvard, is a writer and editor whose work has appeared in Real Simple, Newsweek, New York, and Essence magazines and on the websites of Paris and Italian Vogue.

In August 2006, Claire founded the blog The Fashion Bomb, which gets 1.6 million monthly visitors. The Fashion Bomb has been referenced in New York Magazine, featured in Glamour, and quoted in Time. Claire is a regular contributor to Essence.com and Vogue.it.

Q: What does fashion mean to you?

Fashion is indicative of our culture, our mood, our personality; it’s a reflection of societal mores and predilections. Fashion is utilitarian in that we all need threads to cover our bodies; but to creatively attack the routine of getting dressed everyday, take risks, and think outside of the box is what fashion means to me.

Q: When did you realize you wanted to become a fashion editor / start FASHION BOMB DAILY?

My two greatest passions in life are shopping and writing. I’ve loved clothes since junior high, and have always taken pains to have a polished appearance.

After working several years in the magazine industry, I realized I could marry my love for prose with my passion for fashion.

I started Fashion Bomb Daily as a hobby; I credit my genuine enthusiasm for the topic for its blossoming into a business.

Q: What was the first article of clothing you ever admired?

For some reason my first memories have to do with pajamas: a cotton rainbow-colored shirt and pants set I tried to wear to school (my mother told me no). Also, a multicolored floral silk robe my mother wore when I was younger.

Q: How does online content differ from print?

Online is immediate.

Sites aren’t even waiting until the next day to post; they are live streaming, live blogging, and live tweeting.

Which means there’s more room for error. But the beauty of digital is that you can easily go back and correct your mistakes. Print is more thought out, methodical, and permanent.

Q: Describe the general process you go through to pick what is in and create content.

Because we focus so much on celebrities, a lot of our job just comes down to checking the wire to see who was out and what they were wearing.

If it’s a slow news day, I rely heavily on reader mail. I like to give the people who visit my site what they want.

So if they want anything from a rundown of Spring trends to a fashion discussion, I oblige. I also have several features that we publish every day no matter what, including Bombshell of the Day and Fashion News.

Q: Who are some of your favorite designers now?

From America, I like Alexander Wang, Rag & Bone, Helmut Lang, Mara Hoffman, and Humberto Leon and Carol Lim for Kenzo. From Paris, Olivier Rousteing of Balmain and Isabel Marant.

My favorite designers right now are based in Britain: I’m living for Peter Pilotto’s digital prints, Mary Katrantzou’s color infused pieces, and lesser known names like Emma Cook and Katie Eary.

I also have a soft spot for a smattering of Italian brands like Roberto Cavalli and Etro.

Half of the brands I love exude urban / edgy cool. The other half are just bright, bold, and fun

Q: What is your favorite Fashion Week memory?

Fashion Week access hasn’t always been easy for the site, though I take it in stride.

As a site that focuses on a multicultural audience, I knew I couldn’t miss Kanye West’s second fashion show in Paris.

I honestly had no way to get in, and expressed a bit of anxiety about entry to a more experienced fashion editor, and she listened quietly. On the day of the show, I saw her randomly, and she gave me her ticket, telling me she informed the publicist I’d be attending in her stead and saying, “You’ll enjoy it more than me.”

Kanye West’s show in Paris only had a front row, for a maximum of, say, 50 people, which included top editors, and Kanye’s friends like Diddy, Cassie, Alicia Keys, and Swizz Beatz.

Long story short, I was able to attend the show, sit on the exclusive front row, and live tweet/blog it.

I spent the first minutes of the after party uploading my grainy Ipad images to my site, so I’d be the ‘first’ to write a review.

And the party afterwards was lots of fun, with performances by Wacka Flocka Flame and Azealia Banks.

It was a great memory not just because I attended, but mainly because in the notoriously difficult and cutthroat fashion industry, someone I admired thought to look out for me. It doesn’t happen often, so when it does, it’s truly touching.

Q: What do you believe makes a quality article of clothing / a great look?

Construction and versatility. I have this Kenzo jumpsuit that transforms from a jumpsuit to a playsuit by zipping off the legs. I’m obsessed with it.

I think a great look has an unexpected element. Instead of opting for a black pump, you picked pink polka dots. Instead of a nude lip, you went with red.

Q: Do you consider yourself an artist?

I don’t. I consider myself a documentarian.

I was just in Ibiza, following around Angolan dance troupe Da Banda. They were so cool, colorful, and lithe, and I was just there, marveling in their creativity and recording every moment.

I would say I’m recording this time in history for future generations, and documenting everything from street to celeb style and beyond for this generation.

Q: What’s your favorite part about tastemaking and chronicling fashion?

I get to meet amazing people and travel. Whenever I get frazzled, I have to remember that I have a job where my main requirements, aside from writing, are to get my hair and makeup done on occasion, shop, go to events, and hop on and off planes. It could be much worse.

Q: What advice do you have for aspiring fashion editors?

Intern, intern, intern! Learn from the best. And if you want to start a blog, see what you can contribute to the existing dialogue. The essence of being a writer or editor is to write and create. So create something new or do something better than it has been done before.

Also remember: to be a great writer, read.

And don’t leave it to chance! Read books like On Writing Well, Elements of Style, and Stephen King’s book, On Writing. Study the people you admire/aspire to be, read their works, and see if you can meet with them to gather any nuggets of knowledge.

Q: What do you like best and dislike most about fashion?

I love the expression of fashion. I kind of hate the judgmental part of it all, even though a huge part of the industry is determining what’s hot and what’s not, what’s in or what’s out. Online, people will focus on the most insignificant details to determine what’s wrong or right with an outfit.

I tend to try to find the beauty in most things.

Judgment aside, I dislike the homogenization of style. Instagram and the Tnternet allow people to see others, which is great, but it also births a whole set of men and women who look and dress exactly the same. But then again, if most people look the same, it makes it easier for me to appreciate someone who thinks outside of the box and doesn’t care what others think.

Q: How would you define your personal style and the style Fashion Bomb Daily exemplifies?

My personal style is classic with a kick. I’ll wear a simple shirt dress with a patterned shoe, or experiment with prints. The bottom line I’d like to convey is class. Fashion Bomb Daily style is a bit different. It’s a website for young trendy women, so a lot of readers cling to that aesthetic.

Q: What are some of your fashion goals? Life goals?

Though I’m a bit of an introvert, I’d love to lend some of my fashion knowledge to the small screen as a talking head on a TV show. I plan on writing a few style-focused books.

Ideally the blog will reach a point where it can run without me so I can pursue these other projects

Lastly, I started out wanting to work for Vogue US, and it’s still a goal for me; but perhaps it will happen in that second phase of my life, post blog.

Q: Where do you get your inspiration?

From travel, from the streets, from blogs, and books.

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ABOUT EGOMELI HORMEKU

Egomeli is Editor in Chief of FashionWeekOnline, and creator of The Hormeku Group.

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