Lela Rose’s Spring Summer 2016 Show, New York Fashion Week
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director with Pablo Starr
Lela Rose launched her collection in 1996 out of her apartment. Her signature style is airy, feminine, colorful and gossamer: like something hatched from Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, attended by will-o’-the-wisps and conjured to life by Queen Mab’s wand.
But it’s Rose’s mastery of color that makes her designs a standout. The Show
[portfolio_slideshow id=7034 align=center width=699 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true] Show Report
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
As I walked into the Skylight Clarkson space for Lela Rose’s show, and made my way through the maze of lines, I was wondering what the décor would be this season. She didn’t disappoint. Guests were greeted with hundreds of tulips, illuminated by rose-colored light.
As the lights went low, I was immediately transported into a natural landscape. There’s always a quick moment before the first model struts out where extreme anticipation and euphoric pleasure comes over me. It reminds me that, when it comes to fashion, I’m not too far removed from the 21-year-old who used to try to sneak into the shows in Bryant Park.
There’s something wonderful about seeing these collections six months before they arrive in stores.
There’s something wonderful about seeing these collections six months before they arrive in stores.
(Above, a fun report from Elle)
Lela’s first piece was a bias stripe fringe tweed dress, which could be seen as a transitional piece from “chic working woman” to “after work” style. The collection overall consisted of 45 pieces, which ranged from tweeds to dresses with paper-light fringe, in colors that included softer hues of posy with an infusion of citrine and radiant orange.
Beautiful long dresses with flowered embroidery are Lela’s hallmark, and this show was no exception.
Overall, the collection was cohesive and intricate. Well done, Ms. Rose.
Contemporary lifestyle brand Boy Meets Girl celebrated their Spring / Summer 2016 collection on September 12, with an intimate event that brought out the likes of Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, OITNB’s Emma Myles, Kimiko Glenn, Joel Marsh Garland & Laura Gomez, Randy Jackson, Justine Skye, Wil, & more. The Fun
Boy Meets Girl® is an edgy, yet wearable, stylish yet casually classic, young contemporary brand. The brand, currently sold in Nordstrom and on Nordstrom.com, offers graphics tops and bottoms, as well as jackets, sweaters and accessories.
Boy Meets Girl® Founder and Creative Director, Stacy Igel, has received several design awards and honors. As one of today’s leading trendsetters, Stacy and the brand have been featured in premier publications including Elle, InStyle, Teen Vogue, WWD, Seventeen, and the New York Times, among others and has been worn by high-profile fashionistas such as Kendall Jenner, Hailee Steinfeld, and Brittany Snow.
V ivienne Tam is widely regarded as the doyenne of “East-meets-West fusion” couture. She made her debut with 1983’s “East Wind Code,” and she’s a humble presence and soft-spoken person. But whether it’s writing about Sean Combs for TIME, creating a controversial line around a despot, or embracing the latest technology: Tam is anything but shy.
She began by selling her designs out of a duffel bag to Henri Bendel.
Chairman Mao via FIDM Museum & Library
But her breakthrough came with a collection centered around Chairman Mao Zedong — a controversial figure credited variously with driving imperialism out of China, modernizing the nation, and causing the deaths of 40 to 70 million people through starvation, forced labor and executions. In the collection, Mao is depicted playfully, even charmingly. The effect is at once lighthearted and disturbing; rather like Richard Grayson’s surrealist story, “With Hitler in New York.”
Tam will make you think.
Last season, our reporter Julia Zeldin was able to interview Tam via live stream. This season, Editor-in-Chief Chris Collie was able to sit down for a longer chat. The New Collection
Whether it’s writing about Sean Combs for TIME, creating a controversial line around a despot, or embracing the latest technology: Tam is anything but shy.
Q: We’re definitely honored today to be sitting with famed designer Vivienne Tam. Thank you so much. I want to go back to a little to the beginning. So you were born in the largest city in the south, Guangzhou.
We call it Canton.
Q: You are renowned for being an East to West fusion fashion designer. So when were you introduced to Western style and how did you become known as the best of both worlds?
I grew up in Hong Kong. You know, Hong Kong is like “East meets West,” and I am the embodiment of “East meets West culture”; I grew up with it. We used chopsticks at home, but when we go out, we use fork and knife.
We used chopsticks at home, but forks and knives when we went out.
Tam’s book, China Chic (First Edition)
We grew up in a Chinese Buddhist culture, and I would go to temples with my parents. But in Catholic school, we sang hymns and read Bibles.
I would go to temples with my parents. But in Catholic school, we sang hymns and read Bibles./blockquote>
It’s a bit confused how we grew up, but it’s part of me and I loved it. We would study English and Chinese history and Chinese literature. And it’s really because of the mixed culture that I became who I am. Therefore it’s my work. I am who I am.
I didn’t understand why we were Chinese but only looking to Western culture.
When I grew up I didn’t understand why we’re Chinese but are only looking to the Western culture; and Chinese history is so amazing, especially the art, the artifacts and the handcrafts: it’s amazing.
I didn’t know it was called “fashion”; I just loved making clothes for myself.
And I grew up shopping in Chinese department stores, and the Chinese department store products are amazing. I wanted to transform them into modern and contemporary products. I’ve always had that passion, especially when I make my own clothes. My mother taught me how to make clothes for myself. I didn’t know that was called “fashion” at that time; I just loved making clothes for myself. And I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress for myself, dress up myself, myself become a doll.
I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress and become a doll.
And I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress for myself, dress up myself, myself become a doll.
Q:So you were your first model. Yes. I was my first model and I loved dressing myself and I love when I make my own clothes, and when I wear it and people would say, “Oh you look beautiful, I love your dress,” and I would feel really happy. I think that is my driving force and my passion, as well as the Chinese culture. I want to share what I’m doing and inject “Chinese-ness” into my work, and I can share my culture to the world through my work. I become the bridge between two cultures.
Q:The East and West, yes, you really have.
And when I came over here, I love you New York. It gives me the opportunity to become who I am. Because in Hong Kong you would never be successful, because people are only looking to the West for their fashions. And you have a Chinese name, using China as an inspiration, in China, it’s never going to be successful.
I said “I want to be who I am. I want to really share my culture with the world.” That’s how I started. It’s my passion, my culture and the mix of the East and the West, the modern and the old history, constantly trying to balance: the yin and yang philosophy.
We are constantly living in the world as a yin-yang you know, five elements. I want to share the culture and philosophies with the world of how we live.
We are constantly living in the world as a yin-yang.
Q:It translates really well.
Thank you. And there are so many beautiful patterns and workmanship. Each collection has a different theme, and I translate them into the clothing and then when people wear it, it’s like we are creating a conversation. I believe that the work it has a voice; you create your own voice through your work.
When people wear the work, it’s like we’re having a conversation
Q:Absolutely. A lot of you may not know you used to sell your designs from a duffle bag to Henri Bendel and other New York stores. Who was there for you in the beginning and what would you say was your biggest break? When do you think that turning point came?
Tam’s Designer Netbook for HP
I didn’t know anything when I started. I didn’t know there was a gallon bag; I sorted everything into duffel bags. And then went to the opening day. I think Henri Bendel had an opening day. I was wearing one of my outfits under this big Chinese army coat. And duffel bags with like 20-something pieces of my work. The buyer loved it. She said “the whole year I haven’t seen something this exciting.” It was really exciting for me and she wrote, every day, you should call Sacks, you should call Barneys, and she gave me so many suggestions: who I should talk to and gave me such great advice, and said “Vivienne I will give you the window.” It’s America, it’s New York that gave me the opportunities to become who I am, and I feel really excited to be here and then go into the other stores.
New York gave me the opportunities to become who I am.
Of course it’s very difficult in the very beginning trying to call the stores. I am a Chinese designer coming from Hong Kong, where there were no designers, only manufacturers. But I really wanted to, that was the driving force. I wanted to show them there are Chinese designers, not just manufacturers; there is creativity there; there’s so much of in our history and culture there. I wanted to show the world that world that my country …
Q:That there are people out there who are talented. Absolutely. Absolutely.
We’re not just manufacturers; there is creativity; there are designers there; there is such great history there.
China isn’t just manufacturers; there is creativity there. There are designers there.
Q:Now let me ask you this, a lot of our viewers know you from “East Wind Code” and the Mao Collection. You and Zhang Hong–
Zhang Hongtu.
Q:Zhang Hongtu? There, you see? Gotta get the names right. Struck a chord with the Chinese market during that time. Now was there ever a point where you felt you were bringing too much Chinese culture into your work, or did you always know that this was working, and you wanted to stay in that vein?
“Last Banquet” by Zhang Hongtu
That collection gave me the world recognition. There were so many problems when I was doing the collection, but I really loved it. It was the beginning of me mixing art and fashion together. And working with the artist and reinforced to me that I am an artist, using clothing as a vehicle to express my feelings and my passion.
It was the beginning of me mixing art and fashion together. And it reinforced to me that I am an artist, using clothing as a vehicle.
So every collection I’m trying to choose the theme, and I use embroideries and fabrics, mixing the fabrics to interpret art into fashion that people can wear and look good, and that will also sell well too. I have to think about art and also commerce at the same time; it’s very, very important; and then it looks good on the person and also there is a conversation between the designer and the wearer.
I have to think about art and also commerce at the same time.
I feel that my show is like a gallery; people come in to see my work. But it’s wearable art, and they can see how I interpret the ideas through my embroideries, the treatments and the embellishments, and how I mix the fabrics and the forms, and all combine together to create the art and they will look good on the person. And that’s my challenge and that’s my excitement for every collection: how I am going to do it.
My show is like a gallery; people come in to see my work. It’s wearable art.
Q:Your new collection is coming soon. What can they expect from the collection, and is there going to be a new fusion of some art that you’ve seen? Do you go and look at artwork and then …?
All the time. I go to all the art shows and galleries, always thinking about using fabric and technology, different kinds of fabrics to create something new: new textures, new surface-like effects. I’m looking at new ways of light mixing, sewing techniques and fabrications to really make it new. That’s my challenge now. Of course in this collection you will see some more of that and the combinations together. Technology fabric and more traditional fabrics mixing together: you will see some like new directions too in the coming collection.
I go to art shows, always thinking about using fabric to create something new: new textures, new surface-like effects.
Q:Now, it’s funny you said technology because I know you did the collaboration with Netbook, with HP? Is that a lane you want to go in? More technology based, because there’s such a big technology spill in the world today as far as everyone using technology? Was that your goal was that, or it just kind of naturally organically happen?
I think it’s a naturally happening because we can’t live without technology, like technology fabrics; like this piece that I’m wearing. And it’s very interesting you know; it’s like mixing old and new materials together to create a new visual interest and surface textures.
And then partnering with different types of technology companies enabled me to learn more about technology and how to communicate with my customers. I can’t say that they are customers, they are my fans: expanding my fan base, you know. And I learn about the other side of the business and its win-win situation, and it’s really, really great you know.
Partnering with different types of technology companies enabled me to learn more about technology and how to communicate with my customers.
I can use technology to express my creativity and my view of fashion, and I think it’s really, really great. It’s a great opportunity. We can’t live without technology. Every day, every month you have a new form of communication. And it’s just different forms of creativity.
Technology is just a different form of creativity.
Q:New apps, new everything, every day.
New apps, communications, I mean new design; it’s so exciting; we’re in a very exciting century.
Q: If you met the younger version of you, when you first started, what advice would you give the younger version of you, now that you know what you know?
It’s very tough business. You’ve got believe in what you’re doing. You have to go for it.
It’s very tough business, you know, a very, very difficult business. You constantly need to know what is new this season. So you’ve got to really truly believe in what you’re doing and have passion in what you’re doing. You have to go for it. There are difficulties, ups and downs, in the fashion world. This one season they love the work, the next season they didn’t love you; it’s not that they didn’t love you, but there is a somebody new they …
Q:They went to someone else.
They went to somebody else. Then you have to stay true to yourself, keep growing, keep going there, and then you will find your own voice, and then your customer will see your belief and the customer will loves you. They’ll keep loving you and go better if your work is going better. You have to keep growing, keep yourself growing. Never give up, never give up, persistency is so important.
You have to keep growing. Never give up. Persistence is so important.
Q:And because, I know that was the last question but I just wanted to ask you one thing because you mentioned it and it’s a good point. When you have a season where the press, or the media, or the buyers don’t receive it well, how do you get over that? How would you find the motivation to keep going? Does it really hurt, or do you just kind of brush it off?
Yeah, people are constantly telling me “no Vivienne, don’t do this; too much Chinese. But I love what I’m doing; I need to please myself with what I do; I need to be happy with what I’m doing.
I need to keep doing what I’m doing but bring some newness. Reinventing yourself I think is most important. And being positive, not saying “Oh, they don’t like my work, they’ll go to somebody else,” and then giving up, no. You listen to the buyers, you listen to your fans to see what they want. For me it’s very important to be able to deliver beautiful collections that are great looking and sell well, because when the person is wearing it, people love it.
I want to deliver beautiful collections that are great looking and sell well, because when the person wears it, people love it.
Never give up, infuse newness in your work and challenge yourself.
Q:Now that’s a good note to end on … Where there is a difficulty, it’s really making you stronger. How you go through that difficulty is the challenge.
Difficulty makes you stronger.
Q:How you survive it.
The survivor. That’s where creativity is.
Q:You see, words from the genius herself.
That’s the challenge of every season, but it’s part of life.
Dolce Vita Collection’s Laid Back, Luxe Handbags are Made for the “On the Go” Woman
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
I recently heard a fashion expert say, “Bags are no longer an accessory for women; they’re now an integral part of a woman’s wardrobe.” No truer words have been spoken when it comes to the modern, on the go woman. Not coincidentally, “on the go” is the exact description of the ideal woman given by Dolce Vita Collection’s founder Liz Hwang.
The streets of NYC gave birth to these bags, which have struck a chord with the effortlessly chic woman who wants to travel from the board room to a night out on the town. Thanks to Dolce Vita Collection, it’s an easy transition. Running to catch a cab for an evening soirée? Easy. Some bags convert to backpacks.
Running to catch a cab for an evening soirée? Some bags convert to backpacks.
We recently sat down to discuss her brand, experience the current F/W ’15 collection, and get an exclusive peek at the S/S ’16 collection.
Entering DV’s showroom, I was immediately greeted by the Dolce Vita logo, and DV’s Head of E-Commerce/Marketing Lisa Jackson. As Lisa escorted me to the conference room where I would be sitting down for an in-depth conversation with Liz, she explained they were in the midst of Market Week prep, so I would be the first to see the new collection. (Fashion gods shining down on me.)
Lisa explained I would be the first to see the new collection.
Next Liz walked into the conference room with the most pleasant smile and immediately thanked me for taking the time to show interest in the collection. Then she made me a friend for life, by offering me free reign of the giant candy jar at the centerpiece of the conference room table. I immediately thanked her and took note for indulging post-interview.
Q: Thank you Liz, for taking the time to sit with me. I know your time is limited, so I’ll make this brief. Considering how vast the handbag industry is, what differentiates Dolce Vita Collection in the marketplace?
Liz: We saw a white space in the handbag industry. So we focus on design as our differentiator, and translate it to the “Dolce Vita Woman.” This woman is stylish, aware, and constantly on-the-go.
Q: If you could have a conversation, and give advice to your younger self, what would that advice be?
Liz: Always listen to your customer because this [looking into the showroom area from the conference room] is all for them. They are your bosses in terms of what you do. They vote with their dollars.
Always listen to your customer because they vote with their dollars.
Q: What direction do you see for the identity of Dolce Vita Collection going forward?
Liz: I continue to see the collection making a mark as a niche brand. It is — and will continue to be — for the woman who wants something different and special.
Dolce Vita is for the woman who wants something different and special.
Q: Thank you Liz, for your answers; I wish you well with Dolce Vita and thank you for allowing me this tour of the S/S’16 Collection.
After shooting pictures of the showroom and the new collection, I spoke with Lisa, and informed her I would be following up with more questions to try and get a better idea of brand’s DNA.
Q: What’s the origin and background of the name, Dolce Vita?
Lisa: Dolce Vita Collection was founded in New York to empower the effortlessly cool individual who knows the “Sweet Life.” We provide timeless styles with a twist, so our handbags can sustain the on-the-go lifestyle of go-getters.
We want to empower the effortlessly cool individual who knows “the Sweet Life.”
Q: Which handbag in the collection has really resonated with your customer? Is there a signature piece that’s a staple of Dolce Vita Collection?
Catch a cab with ease. It converts to a backpack.
Lisa: The convertible backpacks have been extremely popular. Each of these handbags features removable shoulder straps, so they can be worn as a backpack or a shoulder bag, which has become an essential feature for women who need to seamlessly transition from day to night. These are signature features affiliated with the brand. Designed with the “Dolce Vita Woman” in mind, we’re known for offering convertible designs, bold colors, and beautiful custom hardware.
The convertible backpacks have been extremely popular.
Q: How did Liz decide that handbags were the niche of fashion where she thought she could excel?
Lisa: Liz has always had an exceptional talent for design and attention to detail. She also witnessed her father found our parent company, which continues to flourish 31 years to date! These are two of many factors that have played a role in her pursuit of developing her passion.
Q: With the digital age catching up with fashion, how is Dolce Vita Collection positioning itself to adapt?
Lisa: We recently relaunched our website to include integrated social content. Instagram photos from @DolceVitaHandbags are fed into the homepage and index page content streams. We also launched a new social media campaign on Instagram, Facebook, and Google+ featuring the inspiration of New York City coffee culture, plus a content series featuring young women who personify the Dolce Vita brand and our commitment to on-the-go fashion.
We recently relaunched our website to include integrated social content.
Q: What is coming down the pipeline for Dolce Vita in the near future?
Lisa: As a relatively new brand, we are consistently seeking out new ways to show appreciation to our customers. Therefore, stay tuned this holiday season to see a series of digital and offline appreciation events tailored with the “Dolce Vita Woman” in mind!
Stay tuned for a series of digital and offline appreciation events!
Editorial Note: The entire team at Dolce Vita Handbags were not only very welcoming, but knew their brand DNA and had a definite vision for their growth and expansion. They are definitely a brand FWO will be keeping an eye on.
Here at Fashion Week Online, we’ve been talking about the “return to craftsmanship” movement for some time. (Or at least, for awhile in “fashion time.”) This obsession with detail and quality is perfectly evidenced in Custo Barcelona.
Custo Dalmau, the force behind the brand Custo Barcelona, is no stranger to fashion or New York Fashion Week. After all, this is his 39th NYFW season.
The pieces of the new collection feature intricate details and elaborate production processes
Think the “slow cooking” movement, applied to fashion.
The pieces of the new collection feature intricate details and elaborate production processes. Think the “slow cooking” movement, applied to fashion.
The garments are all produced in the company’s ateliers and again bear the “Made in Spain” distinction sewn into the label.
In “Slow,” the key elements are muscular patchwork garments, dresses, coats, jackets, tops, tunics and pants featuring organic cuts inspired by ergonomics and puzzles. These pieces play on their muscular shapes, marked off with contrast stitching and gaps that emerge when they are joined, defying the conventional.
Organic cuts inspired by ergonomics and puzzles feature blond lace and open knit mesh.
Especially evident in the collection’s looks is the delicacy of the fabrics, such as blond lace and open knit mesh. These were once used solely for women but now also hint at the skin of the male bodies on the catwalk. This “trifecta” — as it’s called in the firm — of three garments brought together by the same fabric and print in a single look yields a very compact visual concept, keeping with the style of Custo Barcelona.
The color palette is inspired by nature: petal pink, emerald green, white gardenia, Mediterranean blue and tangerine.
The color palette for the various looks is inspired by nature: petal pink, emerald green, violet, white gardenia, mauve, fuchsia, lime, lemon, Mediterranean blue and tangerine come together harmoniously in the pieces. The strength and personality of black, play an important role of the looks on the catwalk, but earthy tones colored by the setting sun together with knit textures are another of Custo’s winning formulas.
In the men’s looks, the firm sought the carefree elegance of the Mediterranean man, using geometric and pictorial graphics in the signature look of the company.
Presented for the first time at Pier 59 Studios, the show once again brought together the brand’s faithful followers, who did not want to miss a single detail of the latest proposals by Custo Barcelona. The guest list included Dascha Polanco, Selenis Leyva, Karrueche Tran, Andi Doorman, James Goldstein, and Mariano Di Vaio.
Dan and Dean Caten grew up in Ontario, Canada, then moved to New York to study fashion at Parsons The New School for Design. Staying only one semester, they found financial backing for their first collection, and then moved to Milan, working for Versace and Diesel.
Today, they are, quite simply, some of the most consummate artists in the fashion world, with an almost appalling gift for color, texture, and detail, with a signature style that’s cheeky, daring, and always exciting.
Q: I have to admit I’m a big fan of your brand. In fact, I wore your “Sisters From Hell” T-shirt to last New York Fashion Week! I also own some pieces from your infamous “Homeless Collection,” as well as several pairs of jeans. One of my favorite things about the DSquared2 brand is its playfulness; almost a “sneakiness”: luxury wear disguised as street clothing, that just gives little hints to its pedigree. The T-shirt that looks like a heavy metal T-shirt. The belt buckle that looks like a smashed soda can. The brand-new shoes that look like an amazing thrift-store find. Where do these ideas come from? Is there a philosophy at play? Perhaps an homage to the artistry-of-everyday-clothing, or to “accidental” styles?
“Accidental and personal style” could be the proper answer. … And do you know why? It’s more a matter of personal interests, positive vibes and those funny ideas that we try to translate into fashion items. Creativity inspires and leads everything concerning our job. And it comes from everything surrounding us: that means music, people, places. Everything! No limits, no boundaries, no precise restrictions to the creativity.
No limits, no boundaries, no precise restrictions to the creativity.
Q: A lot of your designs are exaggerated versions of items that already exist; larger than life. Is part of your vision to distill the essence of a past style, or a particular look, and somehow put it on steroids? To create the ultimate — or idealized — version of it?
We just look around us … We just use imagination, personality and individual tastes. The essence of everything is simply our vision of fashion and beauty. We are inspired by the past and from everyday life. Our purpose is always to be innovative, and at the same time be in line with our D2 fashion codes.
The essence of everything is simply our vision of fashion and beauty.
Q: There’s also a lot of humor in your designs. A sense of fun that never takes itself too seriously: jeans made to accentuate the crotch. Or that appear to be on backward! Jeans with pen marks, as if worn down by an impatient student in a long class. They’re items that seem to have a back story. They also invite people to want to ask you about them; conversation starters.
Everyone should take themselves less seriously! We do that! Fun is our strength. We love our job, and we always try to make it in a positive atmosphere! Behind our collections, there are always playful moods and meanings.
Everyone should take themselves less seriously!
Q: Music seems to be an inspiration behind many of the looks. What music inspires you?
We do not have preferences … we love all kind of music! And we love to work with it. It is always been an important part of our work!
Q: What lies ahead for DSquared2? Any beginning ideas for next season, or are you content to rest for the moment?
We never stop … we rest for awhile, but we restart again as soon as possible. Next season? We never know exactly. It’s always a surprise … even for us!
Next season? It’s always a surprise … even for us!
Vivienne Tam is giving one lucky winner (and a guest) tickets to her #SS16 #NYFW show on September 14th!
To enter, simply follow Vivienne Tam on Instagram (/viviennetam) and upload a photo of your favorite Vivienne Tam outfit with hashtag #VTNYFW.
Upload a photo of your favorite Vivienne Tam outfit with hashtag #VTNYFW.
Deadline to enter is 11:59PM EST September 7th.
Winner will be chosen based on a combination of factors, including the quality and creativity of the photo (and caption) and the photo’s popularity (likes, comments, etc.)! Extra points to those who share this post on FB!
Max Gengos (pronounced “jenn‐joss”) has already created looks for Kylie Jenner (for Teen Vogue, no less) and Calvin Klein. But his legacy may be something far more enduring: responsible luxury.
One of the great ironies in fashion is the disconnect between the beauty of the products, and the way the materials are often sourced. It’s a core paradox that’s increasingly at the forefront of the industry, thanks in part to recent clashes between manufactuers and influencers such as Jane Birkin and Stella McCartney.
One of the great ironies in fashion is the disconnect between the beauty of the products, and the way the materials are often sourced.
An increasing social consciousness and responsibility wave — which has embraced everything from gay marriage to transgenderism — is also demanding humane treatment of animals, an end to “conflict-sourced” materials (think: blood diamonds), unfair working conditions and labor practices, and a turn to eco-friendly materials.
An increasing social consciousness and responsibility wave is pushing for humane treatment of animals and eco-friendly materials.
Enter an array of young designers like Max Gengos.
According to Gengos’ press release, Max’s “concept of ‘responsible luxury’ is reflected in his dedication to sustainable and ethical production: from working with an Italian mill using photovoltaic cells for renewable energy, to closely monitoring his NYC ‘slow-tech’ production facilities.
“His forthcoming Spring 2016 collection, ‘Neo-Tropico,’ builds upon the designer’s signature form-flattering silhouettes and infinity hems with the addition of tailoring and outerwear, as well as a fresh, modern color palette beyond his core neutrals.
“Included in the new collection will be Max’s leather-alternative ‘vegan moto jacket.'”
When modeling agencies are searching for the next “it” girl or guy, they sometimes refer to the process as “searching for raw talent.” Well a 20-year veteran in the modeling, fashion and beauty industry has taken the phrase “raw talent” a step further.
Roberta Whitney, after an extremely successful career as model — in which she has graced the pages of such publication heavyweights as ELLE and Cosmopolitan — founded RAW Talent, a premium beauty, fashion and etiquette coaching boutique. With its location in Central London within the private membership club The Library, the boutique offers a bespoke program to suit a woman or man’s needs in regard to, as they refer to it, “The Art of Social Grace.”
This unique coaching curriculum involves three primary focuses: beauty; personal fashion/character; and social decorum. Each specific area of the coaching within the boutique has a significant purpose behind it.
The Beauty Regime
Proven methods used by professional beauticians from global publications, franchise beauty photographers and celebrity make-up artists, who along with Roberta have developed an in-depth knowledge of using different shades and hues to best suit different skin tones and personalities.
Personal Fashion/Character Development
Each participant within the boutique goes through a personal character assessment matched with fashion trend extrapolation methods to ensure each candidate, no matter what their personal style, will attain a chic look to complement their fashion taste and body type. Roberta — having worn countless designer clothes in her work as a model — has developed a trademarked methodology for success in this area for her participants.
Social Decorum
Revolutionary methods focus on the development of the participant’s character and social skills. Not your average everyday “etiquette” classes, methods have been updated to work in the social media-driven we live in. Roberta is also careful to ensure the participants’ character growth outside of technology and social media, for the purposes of face-to-face conversation, networking and securing career positions for those who want a polished individual for their brand.
I was lucky enough to speak with Roberta Whitney, owner of RAW Talent.
Q: What inspired you to create RAW Talent?
I was inspired to create RAW after being asked over and over to help or advise people — or their children — on the modeling industry. RAW talent was born from the belief that everybody has raw talent, and helping unlock that talent and assisting people in the positive projection of self, whether in social or business environments, is my passion.
RAW talent was born from the belief that everybody has raw talent.
Q: Do you see beauty, fashion, and etiquette coaching as a necessity for today’s growing tweens, teenagers and young adults, as a way to instill confidence in them?
Yes I do. I’m inspired to create a place where positive values can be reintroduced, and confidence inspired. My aim is to enhance people’s ability to be positive and effective in their lives. Self-belief is crucial to instill in young people.
My aim is to enhance people’s ability to be positive and effective in their lives.
Q: With the increased use of technology in our society, is this boutique a way to bring back the art of social ease and face-to-face interpersonal skills, as well as conversation?
Technology is evolving at an alarming rate, and we can’t slow that process down. RAW Talent will create a platform where individuals can connect, meet industry professionals, and network in a safe space. In 2016 we plan to host networking events regularly, as we believe personal interaction is key, so that people can use some of the skills they’ve acquired through RAW Talent.
RAW Talent will create a platform where individuals can network in a safe space.
Q: With your background in modeling, are you going to teach your students the pitfalls and traps of not being balanced?
Yes, absolutely. My experience as a model has led me to create this agency. I can give people the inside scoop in the industry. Advising and supporting students on their journey — and how they can lead a positive professional life, as well as a balanced personal life — is key.
Q: What’s the selection process for the students of the boutique?
I believe we are all beautiful in our own unique way. RAW Talent is not focused on physical beauty alone, so anyone is welcome to train with me. Students who may not have conventional model potential will be advised on other modeling options, e.g.: commercial, hair, hand, or foot modeling, etc. We’re also committed to offering a limited number of scholarship,s to ensure that a range of people with varying economic circumstances get the opportunity to work with us.
Q: What do you feel the “art of social grace” is, in your opinion?
In my opinion there is an art to social grace. This translates across how you carry yourself, your energy, body language, and eye contact.
Q: How did you develop the curriculum for the boutique?
The curriculum has been developed by months of research and years of experience in the industry, and our commitment to helping people lead healthier and happier lives by living out their dreams is what we do well — and what we love.
Q: What is the ultimate goal of the RAW Talent boutique?
The ultimate goal of RAW Talent is to become synonymous with quality fashion and beauty training, and success. Giorgio Armani said, “The difference between style and fashion is quality.” I really believe it’s important to make a positive first impression … but it’s even more important to make a positive, lasting impression. And that’s RAW Talent’s goal.
It’s even more important to make a positive, lasting impression.
I want to thank Roberta Whitney for taking the time to speak with me while in London. For more information regarding the RAW Talent Boutique, email: info@rawtalentuk.com.
Lela Rose launched her collection in 1996 out of her apartment. Her signature style is airy, feminine, colorful and gossamer: like something hatched from Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, attended by will-o’-the-wisps and conjured to life by Queen Mab’s wand.
Yes. I was my first model and I loved dressing myself and I love when I make my own clothes, and when I wear it and people would say, “Oh you look beautiful, I love your dress,” and I would feel really happy. I think that is my driving force and my passion, as well as the Chinese culture. I want to share what I’m doing and inject “Chinese-ness” into my work, and I can share my culture to the world through my work. I become the bridge between two cultures.
Where there is a difficulty, it’s really making you stronger. How you go through that difficulty is the challenge.
The pieces of the new collection feature intricate details and elaborate production processes. Think the “slow cooking” movement, applied to fashion.
Especially evident in the collection’s looks is the delicacy of the fabrics, such as blond lace and open knit mesh. These were once used solely for women but now also hint at the skin of the male bodies on the catwalk. This “trifecta” — as it’s called in the firm — of three garments brought together by the same fabric and print in a single look yields a very compact visual concept, keeping with the style of Custo Barcelona.
In the men’s looks, the firm sought the carefree elegance of the Mediterranean man, using geometric and pictorial graphics in the signature look of the company.
