I spoke with Sara Moukhles, their freelance artistic director, regarding their fashion show “We Are The Kids Your Parents Warned You About.” The show took place on January 30th at Le Coeur Art Gallery on Rue de Turenne in Paris’ 3rd arrondissement.
Sixth June is affordable.
Trendy beanies start at 15 Euros, and sweatshirts can be purchased for 35 or less. This accessibility can be misaligned with the typical features of a high fashion name. In response to this conflict, one of the goals of the show was to assert the brand’s high fashion creativity in spite of its attainability. Another goal was to break down barriers between the often too-serious world of high fashion, and youth.
One goal was to break down barriers between high fashion and youth.
The show worked effectively like an art exhibit — you entered a studio with two floors, with several separate galleries throughout. Opposed to their usual place on the runway, models in this show bordered the periphery, which threw the spectator in the middle … as much a spectacle as the models.
Sara chose the format of an art gallery to equate the models as pieces of art. Deliberately, attendees were under two commands: “look but don’t touch,” and the irresistible drive for a perfect Snapchat story or Instagram. In effect, there was a tug-of-war between behaving adjacent to the untouchable world of art, and joining it.
The Collection
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(Photos: Emma Foster)
Sara’s “We Are the Kids” was an argument in defense of young people today. She defined youths to be “this new generation condemned by some as no future generation.” She continued: this new generation is social media users, rule breakers, and mess makers.
“We Are the Kids” was an argument in defense of young people today.
The message in this show was to express that the new generation — via their arsenal of selfies, pithy quotations, and tumblr — will not only disrupt the current status quo, but will shatter it with utter disregard for the rules and expectations.
As far as the actual collection goes, the clothes carried a defiant and proud tone. Some were torn or defaced with red paint, and patched with slogans like “Please tear this up.”
Downstairs was a beige, tan, and rose ensemble that had a more commercial appeal. The endorsement of “Kanye for President” on baseball caps and shirts worked as a statement neglecting old-fashioned politics in favor of modern and remorseless idolatry.
“Le smoking,” the wingtip shoe, intentionally large watches, and a number of other masculine pieces make up many a fashionable woman’s wardrobe these days.
In fact, most of them are declared “must-haves.” Women have been stealing from the closets of men for decades, but perhaps it’s time for an ironic twist.
Women have been stealing from the closets of men for decades, but perhaps it’s time for an ironic twist.
SIX THINGS MEN CAN LEARN FROM WOMEN’S FASHION:
1) Dress for your body type
This rule of thumb is the first thing out of many women’s lips when asked: what fashion guideline do you live by?
Nearly every stylish woman knows which body type she is and how to flaunt it the best she can. Because of the extensive research on this subject regarding women, many men disregard the rule. But every male body is different, so dressing each type varies.
Every male body is different, so dressing each type varies.
2) Skincare is everything
Alpha Fit by Clarisonic
Women tend to be quite attentive to their skin: its smoothness, evidence of aging, spots, acne, and a plethora of other issues. Skin is skin; men have the same needs and issues, but the emphasis on their skin doesn’t stretch nearly as long.
With frequent shaving (or not!), the face becomes a battleground of oily, dry, or irritated skin. Products for the skin can be pricey or seem irrelevant, but its an investment for the future. And as always, sunscreen is a must.
The face becomes a battleground of oily, dry, or irritated skin.
To address the growing attentiveness of the male population to their skin, products have entered the market specially tailored for a man’s skin, such as the Alpha Fit, by Clarisonic.
(Our publisher got this for Christmas last month. Okay, he got it for himself. So far he reports it feels nice on the face, but it still hasn’t magically removed the hideous bags under his eyes.)
3) A thoughtful spray goes a long way
The art of choosing a perfume is a delicate and serious one.
And one can bet many women know where and how to apply it for maximum results in regard to allure.
Unfortunately, many a man has walked by with a wall of cologne at their heels — or a bottle of drugstore deodorant the victim of their abuse. With a little schooling in the matter and a discerning sniff, suddenly a few sprays make all the difference.
Many a man has walked by with a wall of cologne at their heels.
FWO recommends ditching the department store and trying more interesting and complex fragrances from someplace like Lucky Scent. Our two top picks? Arso by Profumum, and Kilian’s Pure Oud, for the adventurous.
In the closet of nearly every fashionable woman in the know, there is the mythical “little black dress” — quality-made, thoughtfully purchased, and instrumental to her array of ensembles.
The equivalent? A nice quality suit (NQS). The pieces and parts of a suit present endless opportunity for stylish combinations. In colors like gray, navy, or black, it’s a piece that’s worth the investment.
And don’t be afraid to mix it up. Over-coordination is a distinctly American obsession.
Many women enjoy looking chic at the post office or towering in heels in the dairy section. It’s a point of pride some fashionable women hold on to.
There’s also a sort of mystic allure when a man appears well dressed for no apparent reason. Even the framing of a car window when reaching for fries in the drive through is an opportunity to show off your new shirt.
There’s an allure when a man appears well dressed for no apparent reason.
6) Cling to your signature piece
The key to being stylish is just that: style.
To have style, women know that they need a clothing watermark: that one piece that is their signature. Whether it’s a pair of glasses, a perfect cat-eye, or a vintage bomber jacket, it’s what makes her who she is. As to avoid being lumped in the other 3 billion or so men in the world, a stand-out piece is a must.
We recently got a sneak peak at Hed Mayner’s AW 2016-2017 lookbook. This is his fourth series, after his début in SS 2015.
Historically, the Israeli designer has juxtaposed harsh with soft ensembles. In 2015, he used leather and slightly harsher pieces, perhaps most memorably with the torn bomber jacket shown below. As a contrast, he brought in gentle, vaguely monastic pieces, including the white outfits shown below. In the current collection he takes this religious theme and runs with it.
(F/W 15)
(S/S 15)
(S/S 15)
(S/S 15)
In his previous collections, Mayner honed his tactile style by comparing harsh and soft. In the current collection, he creates a new dichotomy between loud and muted. He commits fully to the monastic aesthetic, and he explores what happens when religious figures of varying degrees appear, from calming and airy to loud and proud.
He explores religious figures of varying degrees, from calming and airy to loud and proud
The hooded look and the Buddhist monk ensemble are unmistakably religious. Adjacent these pieces, the wrap-style lavender crew neck comes across as relatively diluted. In a previous collection, this piece may have carried more weight as a symbol of religion.
Mayner shows us how much he has learned in his still young career, through an erudite — and very vocal — collection.
French-born Claudine Sorel is a Parisian designer who has dedicated her life to art and fashion.
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In 1998, after a trip to Paris to learn the art of putting patina on 18th-century furniture, Claudine launched her first furniture and lamp business. In late 2003, during a dinner held at the French Embassy, Claudine met Mark Bloomfield, a Washingtonian businessman. “Love at first sight” resulted in Claudine marrying Mark and moving to Washington D.C.
In 2007, Claudine founded her first online business, “Les Caprices de Claudine,” specializing in home decoration, with products imported from France and bronze sculptures designed by her. In 2012, she launched the POSTES line: 100% bespoke handbags, a re-imagining of the traditional all-leather French Postman bag.
The bags quickly gained a celebrity following, and were worn by celebrities such as Brooke Shields and New York stylist June Ambrose.
At that time, each POSTES bag required a few months to complete.
Now in 2014, Claudine is introducing a new line of POSTES bags, 100% handmade in Manhattan, in a very limited edition series.
Q: The POSTES Collection is a re-imagining of the traditional “French Postman Bag” – the leather mailbag used for more than 100 years by the French Postal Service. What drew you to it? And how did you make use of the form to create something new and fashion-forward in the POSTES line?
I saw the original bag at an antiques store in Paris, and it was love at first sight. I immediately imagined it in luxurious materials and carried by very sophisticated people. That was the beginning of my concept of the POSTES bag.
It was love at first sight. I immediately imagined the traditional bag in luxurious materials
I kept the main structure of the original bag: a top flap, two gussets divided by a zip compartment and a lock. Then, I entirely redesigned the bag around this main structure. My idea was to design a non-conventional, extremely feminine, practical, comfortable, cute and luxurious ‘POSTES’ bag.
My idea was to design a non-conventional, extremely feminine, practical, comfortable, cute and luxurious ‘POSTES’ bag.
I also aspired to give POSTES a strong identity characterized by striking contrasts and oppositions of colors and materials. I love oppositions and contrasts. Another feature that distinguishes POSTES from other bags is its unique clips system (the “Bethesda clips”) located under the padded shoulder straps, which allows the chain to be adjusted and the bag to be worn shoulder length or as a short arm bag.
Its unique clips system allows the bag to be worn shoulder-length or as a short arm bag.
POSTES’ “Bethesda Clips”
Q: A number of celebrities have worn your bag, including Brooke Shields. How does that make you feel?
I am so honored that Brooke Shields, who is so sophisticated and elegant, finds the POSTES bag “divine” and that she feels “quite chic” with it.
I was also very flattered that the very talented New York stylist June Ambrose carried the POSTES bag many times last year during New York Fashion Week. All these compliments give me a lot of motivation and strength to pursue my passion for the POSTES bag.
I was also very flattered that New York stylist June Ambrose carried the POSTES bag last New York Fashion Week.
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The gorgeous and brilliant British actress Hannah Yelland will carry the “Hannah POSTES bag” during the premiere of the exquisite play “Brief Encounter,” which will be held February 14-23 in Los Angeles and March 29-April 13 in Washington DC at the Shakespeare Theater.
Q: The bags are 100% handmade in Manhattan. Was it difficult to find the right craftsmen to bring the bags to life? What was the journey? And what were (and are) the criteria for finding the “right” craftspeople?
It took me few years before achieving the final version of the POSTES bag. I had two criteria in mind: a very French design, 100% handcrafted in the USA, and only made in a limited edition series.
I had two criteria in mind: a very French design, 100% handcrafted in the USA, and in a very limited edition series.
These two criteria were part of my vision of the new POSTES line as it very much reflects who I am: bi-national and non-conformist. POSTES is creating a new identity through its limited edition series.
The journey started in 2011 when I went to Amish country in Ohio, where I had the first ‘test’ prototype made of the bag. Unfortunately, in spite of some very nice quality work, it didn’t meet my expectations. So in 2012, I pursued my quest in San Francisco, where I met very talented craftspeople who made the first versions of POSTES, including some in alligator leather. At that time it took 30 hours to create one bag (celebrities carry some of these special versions).
In the beginning it took 30 hours to create one bag.
Here are few criteria that I consider essential for finding the “right” craftspeople: High-end quality expertise; extreme attention to details and finish; discipline; talent; punctuality. It’s like cooking; you can’t miss one ingredient!
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Q: What materials go into the making of POSTES?
Each POSTES is made entirely of leather (interior and exterior), including some with fur and in alligator.
The locks are designed by me and made in Italy and New York City. All the hardware is manufactured in Italy. The collection features some painted-edged bags as well as some with grosgrain ribbon sewn on each side of the bag.
The locks are designed by me and made in Italy and New York City. All the hardware is manufactured in Italy.
Q: What sizes does it come in? How many looks will be introduced in the new season, and how many of each look will be available?
Presently, POSTES exists in two sizes: a “City” size, perfect for a tablet and women’s everyday needs and one “Mini” size that is actually an extremely elegant, small cross-body POSTES bag, convertible to an adorable clutch that fits essential valuables (phone, key, make-up, etc.).
At the moment, the City POSTES Collection offers over 20 models; the Mini POSTES Collection has around 12 models. And both include models in fur and alligator leathers.
The City Collection offers over 20 models; the Mini Collection has around 12. Both include models in fur and alligator leathers.
Q: Where can people buy POSTES?
For the time being POSTES is available on our e-shopping website: www.claudinesorel.com.
Q: As a designer, do you want to expand into other areas? Do you plan to eventually create a full line of accessories? If you did, what would you create next?
Before I started the POSTES concept I was in the home decoration business, which still exists. But today, I want to devote my future to this new Claudine Sorel brand, starting with the POSTES line. The POSTES bag line will evolve over time with different kinds of material … and I will certainly create a new bag line and accessories.
Q: Do you foresee making the bags available in stores? What are the advantages or drawbacks of keeping control over production in limited editions?
Limited edition means exclusivity and uniqueness. POSTES is an intimate bag: only four people in the world might have the same one.
Style Icon Fabrizio Oriani Brings GWD to New York Fashion Week: Men’s
Via Vogue France
From desk job to style icon. From a small town in northern Italy to New York. Follow the amazing journey of Fabrizio Oriani, founder of GWD.
GWD began in Milan as blog in October 2012 and has evolved into a one of the most followed menswear websites in the world, sharing images, inspiration, and interviews by some of the globe’s top style influencers.
In only 3 years, the GWD Instagram has surpassed 110k dedicated followers, with close to 35k followers on Facebook. Fabrizio is one of the most photographed style icons on the planet today, appearing in Vogue, Esquire, and High Snobiety — to name a few. But where and how did it all begin?
Fabrizio grew up in the small town of Lecco that lies at the end of the southeastern branch of Lake Como, Italy. After his studies in 1998 he became part of the IBM Corporation, where he was employed for 17 years. During those years at IBM, while overseeing the growth of GWD, he was able to complete his MBA at Warwick University.
In 2011, he met Charley, the love of his life and amazing street photographer in her own right. Once GWD began to take off, she began working with him side-by-side. He decided to sell his property in Lecco and move to Milan.
In January of 2016, he made a major life decision: to take a break from IBM and take a two year sabbatical to dedicate 100% of his time to GWD. Now he’s on his way to expanding and growing GWD at New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
In January of 2016, he began a two year sabbatical to dedicate 100% of his time to GWD.
Q: You made the decision to expand GWD to New York Fashion Week: Men’s this season. What inspired that idea? What’s on your agenda while you’re in NYC? And what are you hoping to accomplish?
Via Esquire
I believe NYC is the place to be, and certainly NYFW puts this incredible city under even an more special spotlight. I will actually attend some shows and presentations; moreover, I want to meet my virtual U.S.-based contacts and share the GWD story.
I believe US is a major greenfield for GWD in terms of services we are currently providing to our clients.
Q:GWD has 110k followers on IG and 31k followers on FB and growing. Fabrizio, when you look at how GWD has grown since 2012, how does that make you feel? What were the pros and cons associated with its development?
Sometimes I can still hardly believe it, and it feels great, even though I think we haven’t done much so far. There’s a lot more to do.
Truly speaking, I can’t see any cons. I’m living my dream, putting all my passion and motivation to inspire the entire GWD family, and bringing to them a lot of exclusive content and inspiration.
I’m living my dream, putting all my passion and motivation to inspire the entire GWD family.
Q: You recently added the GWDe-shop, where you have accessories ready to buy. How do you pick and choose what brands you want to display on the website? And who are some of those brands? Is this something that will be accessible to the American market in the future?
Via High Snobiety
The GWD philosophy is very simple: we only do things we like. Thus the brand / product selection adheres strictly to this point.
In addition, we want to continue to reach the global niche of many connoisseurs who want to have exclusive and unique clothing and accessories.
We have for instance Progetto Fede, an incredible artisan project of uniquely handmade rings / bracelets / chains / bags which can put a twist on your wardrobe.
Actually we sell worldwide and we have a lot of happy American customers.
We reach connoisseurs who want to have exclusive and unique clothing and accessories.
Q: I had the pleasure of interviewing Charley, your fiancée, who is also the photographer at GWD. She is a beautiful and intelligent woman. What is the key to keeping your love strong for each other, and still working together in the professional world? What advice can you give other couples in this industry who work together?
Someone once said “money and blood don’t mix,” but I totally feel the opposite.
Our great love is a great source of motivation, inspiration, and it gives us the strength and perseverance to keep on doing what we do every day.
Our great love is a great source of motivation and inspiration.
Q: I have been following you for a couple years now on IG and FB, and have seen the growth of GWD myself. It’s impressive. You are also global style icon, a staple in the menswear arena, photographed by some of the top style photographers everywhere you go. You wear some of the top menswear brands in Italy, pushing the envelope with vibrant colors and bold patterns. How does it feel to be this global style icon? And how do you decide what to wear? Are there any pieces that you won’t leave the home without? Does Charley give you any input?
I truly don’t feel like a global style icon. I’m just a young man who is on his journey to “build his own style.” I’m very creative and I like to mix different pieces, different materials, with different brands.
I just want to feel comfortable in what I’m wearing. Hats and rings are always with me. Charley sometimes challenges me to try something new, to experiment, and she’s really helpful in my journey.
I just want to feel comfortable in what I’m wearing.
Q: Which brands have you collaborated with?
Since we started, we’ve collaborated with some of the coolest menswear brands around; we’ve enjoyed working with Lardini, LBM, Tagliatore, The Gigi, Borsalino, Preventi, Pollini … to name just a few.
Q: You and your team at GWD recently directed and produced a fashion film for Briston Watches with the collaboration of your good friend Gianni Fontana, aka The Style Buff. I’ve seen the video and it’s so well done: it’s classy, elegant, and to the point. How long did it take to put this short fashion film together with your team of 3-4 people? How did you up come up with the concept? Will you be doing more short films for other brands?
Thanks, Laura, we are delighted you appreciated it.
It took one day of shooting and about a week of post production.
The concept is about telling a cozy story of inspiration, using the incredibly beautiful place where we live. We wanted to be true; we want to do something people can identify themselves with. The concept is about enjoying life with people you love: the verbal nail is “Never mind the weather, good time together.” (If you notice that day was a rainy one, but despite the unlucky conditions, we had great time.)
I definitely believe videos will increasingly be the media used on social media networks.
The concept is about enjoying life with people you love.
Q: When we met in Milan, you expressed your passion for music and DJing. You were a DJ at some of the top clubs in Milano. Are you hoping to get back into spinning records at major clubs again?
Via Esquire
Yes, music is my greatest passion and a deep source of inspiration for me. I’ve played as a DJ in Milano in places like Soul2Soul, The Black, and Santa Tecla Café.
Now that I’m more free to do what I love, I will definitely go back to DJing.
Now that I’m more free to do what I love, I will definitely go back to DJing.
Q: If you had one wish to meet your favorite musician / DJ who would that be? And why?
Jay Z; he’s my favorite living artist.
Jay Z is my favorite living artist.
Q: Tell me about your signature phrase, “Build your own style.”
#BuildYourOwnStyle is the essence of GWD.
We hope people following us will be inspired to create their own style, in this long and winding path, with an unknown destination.
#BuildYourOwnStyle is the essence of GWD.
Q: What style icons have influenced you over the years … and how?
The list is too long, and I don’t wont to miss anyone. I’m not only inspired by style icons, I’m inspired everyday, in the streets, having a coffee or just jumping on a metro.
Q: In the next 5 years, where do you see yourself and GWD? Maybe a magazine in the future?
Tough question. My vision is to create a cozy place for people to visit on the Internet. For sure, a printed magazine could be a great idea, as we have so many cool pictures to put in.
My vision is to create a cozy place for people to visit on the Internet.
Q: You’ve inspired many people around the world — including myself — and that must be a huge personal accomplishment. What advice can you give men out there who want to follow in your footsteps in developing their own style?
Be yourself, every day, and don’t be afraid to experiment; to invent.
Don’t be afraid to experiment; to invent.
Travel, listen to the music you like, read a lot, find someone like you, and together live your dream.
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Thank you for sharing your story with us Fabrizio, and we wish you the best in your adventure in NYC!
Complimentary hair styling, makeup, and manicures will be offered by appointment only and based on availability, during New York Fashion Week at the Caravan Stylist Studio on the mezzanine of The Gregory Hotel, sponsored by OGX, Christo styling team, Pixi & Pop make-up, Color Club nail polish, beverages by KeVita, Volvic and Belvoir, and snacks from Nature Addicts.
Caravan Stylist Studio is an innovative wardrobe and beauty studio that pairs actresses from top TV shows, including Orange Is The New Black, Jane the Virgin, Younger, The Americans, and Blacklist, among others, as well as tastemakers and media influencers with top fashion designers and beauty experts.
Fashion Week Online will be streaming designer runway shows and presentations during New York Fashion Week at The Liquor Cabinet at The Gregory Hotel. Guests and locals can enjoy an all-access experience and watch models showcase the new Fall/Winter collections on the catwalk.
February 11th – 13th, 9 AM – 6 PM
NYC designer KahriAnne Kerr will preview her new, original art-printed collection of dresses, shirts, fashion dolls, pillows and bags. Kahri’s designs are sold in over 20 boutiques worldwide, including in the U.S. England, Scotland, Austria, Spain and Israel as well as 30 online boutiques. (No reservation required! Just come out to The Gregory Hotel.)
February 15th – 17th, 9 AM – 6 PM
Sarah Carson, founder of Leota New York, will preview her brand’s new Spring 2016 collection, featuring New York City-made dresses, where comfort, confidence, and style take center stage; bringing you from desk-to-dinner effortlessly. Sold in over 300 fine retailers worldwide, the line includes a range of silhouettes and style categories fit for Contemporary, Maternity, and special sizes. (No reservation required! Just come out to The Gregory Hotel.)
February 16th, 6 PM
Fashion Week Online‘s NY Editorial Director — and founder of FashionsGuyNY.com — Chris Collie, will host a Fireside Session at The Gregory Hotel, presenting a recap of the fashion and beauty trends seen at February Fashion Week in New York. Held in the lobby, around the fireplace, hotel guests and fashion enthusiasts can expect to learn about Fall/Winter trends shown at New York Fashion Week, while enjoying cocktails from The Liquor Cabinet, and will have the opportunity to ask Collie questions to help tailor the discussion.
Via HadidNewsParis Homme (Men’s) shows have just wrapped. These are followed by Paris’ “haute couture” shows … without a doubt, the most intense series of fashion events on the planet.
We’ll be updating our Paris channel as replays roll in. Enjoy!
Invitations will soon be going out for the #IAMNYFW pre-show event with FTL Moda and Fashion Week Online, in conjunction with the Global Disability Network.
We’ve been talking about a beautiful revolution in the fashion industry for some time. “You are beautiful.” “The Age of Us.” No matter how you slice it, “inclusivity” is the watchword, with an emphasis on being true to yourself.
It’s a trend fueled by a new sense of acceptance, culturally led by everyone from Amy Schumer to Caitlyn Jenner to super-blogs like Man Repeller.
“Inclusivity” is the watchword, with an emphasis on being true to yourself.
The Revolution: From Models With Down’s Syndrome To Body Acceptance
The trend has come to fashion in a big way: This the era of your style. Your look. Your body type. Even, your “disability.”
At the forefront of this ideal has been FTL Moda, which will be turning 10 in 2016. They’ve featured models such as Madeline Stuart, the model with Down’s Syndrome, Jack Eyers, nominated Man of the Year by Men’s Health Magazine, Rebekah Marine, the “bionic model,” and Shaholly Ayers, the first model to walk in NYFW without a prosthesis.
Shaholly — a congenital amputee — suffered horrible bullying when she was a child. At age 18 she left her native Ohio to become a role model for the many who would have never believed they had a shot in the industry. She is also a 2016 brand ambassador for Global Disability Inclusion, who has partnered with FTL Moda for the past two years to bring disability to NYFW. Shaholly’s journey has been shaped by this partnership and she has modeled in New York and Milan Fashion Week, as well as for Nordstrom and Wilhelmina.
These models have already paraded to showcase emerging and established international designers to general applause and industry appreciation, garnering press in everything from Vogue Italia to US Magazine to Cosmopolitan to E! Online, Today.com … among many others.
FTL Moda is preparing for its FW2016 runway presentation of international designers at New York Fashion Week on February 15th.
#IAmNYFW EVENT
FTL MODA will be celebrating the launch of a new Midtown Manhattan showroom, and kicking of Fall Winter 2016, with its new “#IAmNYFW” pre-show launch event, on February 13th, to be attended by Shaholly Ayers and Rebekah Marine. The event will be realized in partnership with Carlsberg Italia, introducing the Birrificio Angelo Poretti label to the US market.
Although the event is primarily industry focused, some tickets will be available for the general public, so stay tuned. After all, you are #NYFW, too.
Milano uomo! (“Uomo” means “man.” Yep: we totally researched that.)
The menswear season is in full swing, with its latest stop in Italy (like mixed metaphors? a little specialty of ours), where fashion is sort of like sunlight, or espresso: everywhere, and impressively great.
We’ll be updating our Milan channel as replays roll in. Enjoy!
Streetwear brand Sixth June was founded in 2008.
The art of choosing a perfume is a delicate and serious one. 
The bags quickly gained a celebrity following, and were worn by celebrities such as Brooke Shields and New York stylist June Ambrose.
At the forefront of this ideal has been FTL Moda, which will be turning 10 in 2016. They’ve featured models such as Madeline Stuart, the model with Down’s Syndrome, Jack Eyers, nominated Man of the Year by Men’s Health Magazine, Rebekah Marine, the “bionic model,” and Shaholly Ayers, the first model to walk in NYFW without a prosthesis.
