Fashion Future: Powered by Samsung | Part 2

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This past September, Samsung and FTL Moda got together with Fashion Week Online to create a singular experience during New York Fashion Week. The event was held at Space 404 in Manhattan and live-streamed at FWO.

But the event wasn’t just covered here at FWO; it appeared in People, The Wall Street Journal, MSN, The Today Show, Teen Vogue, USA Today, ABC News, CBS News, The Washington Post, Cosmopolitan, Oxygen, Glamour, Elle … among many other press outlets.

It’s all part of Samsung’s commitment to new technologies that make people’s lives better. Read on to learn more about the collaboration with Samsung, and how it aims to introduce a Fashion Future: Powered by Samsung.

Interview with Ron Gazzola,VP, Samsung Display

FWO: The new Samsung mirror technology was designed specifically with fashion in mind. How did the idea come about?

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Ron Gazzola, VP, Samsung Display

Ronald Gazzola: The idea of developing digital display science for the fashion industry came about when we looked at the retail space. We knew developing a mirror display for fashion would be all about how to incorporate that experience. So we wanted to create a dynamic, engaging interaction, to create one-on-one interactivity between the consumer and the brand.

FWO: What are some interesting ways the mirrors can be used?

rdi-event-digital-mirror-displayRonald Gazzola: One of the most basic would be the fitting room. Today you go into the fitting room and you’re trying on different designs and it’s a very static environment. You’re looking in a mirror and you’re seeing how something looks.

Now you can make that into a very interactive experience. I go into the fitting room, I try on a particular item, and now I want to try some different accessories. Now I want to look at some other colors. I can actually engage with that display. If you’re a fashion designer, suddenly you’ve created an endless aisle of opportunities for that customer.

“I can actually engage with that display.”

If you’re a retailer, the fitting room becomes another space where you can essentially engage and sell the consumer. And you really give shoppers another reason to want to come in … you give customers a brand new experience of your brand.

“You give shoppers another reason to want to come in.”

FWO: So the customers can see the garment on themselves, in the mirror?

Ronald Gazzola: Yes, but the digital display can accept almost any type of content that can be developed. So you would work with a content provider to create the experience the particular retailer wants to create. So in one instance you may want to show different sizes or different colors of that garment. You may want to show accessories that fit well with that garment.

“You would work with a content provider to create the experience.”

You can really create an endless amount of engagement opportunities in that display. The beauty of the display is that it’s an endpoint through which the consumer and the retailer can engage with one another.

“The consumer and the retailer can engage with one another.”

FWO: And this sort of brings us to the idea of the “Internet of Things.” Obviously Samsung has a suite of products — like virtual reality for example — which is something that’s coming to market that’s very exciting. How do you foresee multiple Samsung products working together? Smartphones, GPS displays, virtual reality, to deliver a “Fashion Future: Powered by Samsung?”

Ronald Gazzola: One of the exciting things is that we have such a broad portfolio of products, both in the consumer and enterprise space. And one of the commitments we’ve made to our customers is that we are going to lead IoT technology and connectivity. Our goal is to have all our devices connected by 2020.

“Our goal is to have all our devices connected by 2020.”

So when you think about that commitment in an R&D investment, now suddenly you have wearable devices, Samsung Gear VR, digital displays … all of those devices are operating together.

So the ability of those devices to “speak” together really creates a totally different and dynamic experience. And from a digital display perspective, we really look at the digital display as a sort of “window to IoT.”

The ability of the consumer and the business to now visualize and conceptualize all of that information — and that content — really makes it something a lot more tangible for the consumer and the business.

Interview with Ilaria Niccolini, Producer FTL Moda

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Ilaria Niccolini, Producer FTL Moda

FWO: Where do you foresee the future for FTL Moda in terms of shopping … and how do you think it will incorporate Samsung technology?

Ilaria: I could foresee incorporating the mirror displays into showrooms in New York, as well as in Tokyo, Paris, or Milan. Showroom space in these fashion capitals tends to be extremely expensive, and it’s really impossible to have an entire collection represented in those spaces. It’s really like having a magic wand.

You can finally think of representing an extended collection in the same environment where until just recently you could represent a very, very limited part of a collection.

Obviously the technology has many uses in and near fashion shows, as well, to drive engagement and real-time shopping.

FWO: This season’s FTL Moda featured Reshma Qureshi, an acid attack survivor from India. How do you think Samsung’s technology and the partnership this season with Samsung has allowed you to bring some of this social consciousness or some of this diversity to a larger audience?

Ilaria: All these months of preparation for participation of Reshma have been extremely touching, very emotional for me. That’s the mission behind FTL Moda. We want to improve the world a little bit, one step at a time. When we partner with a brand like Samsung and a partner like Fashion Week Online — where we have the opportunity to provide service and content to a worldwide audience — it’s really fantastic. Reshma had never even dreamed of walking the runway. Now her message is reaching millions of people.

It could have been a flat activation: technology exists all over. But having Samsung working with us and supporting a shared vision was fantastic. Seeing Reshma was something that made the audience really happy. That’s why all these people left with such big smiles on their faces, because they really experienced something. And having the opportunity to distribute this live streaming via Fashion Week Online was an absolutely great experience.

“Having Samsung working with us and supporting a shared vision was fantastic.”

FWO: It’s exciting because as you mentioned, technology actually has the ability to bring people together.

Ilaria: Yes.

FWO: One of the wonderful things about having Reshma was … when I first heard about the idea of hosting an acid attack survivor, I didn’t want to look. And the exciting thing is, looking is exactly what we need to do! Because the worst thing we can do is look away. One of the most painful parts of something like an acid attack I think is the social isolation that comes to the victim: because people are afraid; they’re afraid of having to see what’s happening in the world.

It was wonderful that so many people were supportive; there was so much press that came out in support of the runway show: not just in FWO, but in People, The Wall Street Journal, ABC News, CBS News, The Today Show, Washington Post, Teen Vogue, USA Today, Oxygen, Glamour, Elle … they all covered the show.

That’s the power of humanizing technology, and what happens when we work together.

And that’s exactly what we need, when somebody is hurting like this. We need to be there for them, and to not look away. So I think it’s a really exciting opportunity — especially with Samsung — to bring this to a large audience, and remind us that we’re all here together, working together. I want to thank you so much for letting us be a part of this journey, and all the things that you do with the diversity-enabling presentations at FTL Moda.

Ilaria: And I thank you, too. When it’s a good synergy, it puts together very good elements — creativity, technology, vision, communication, distribution. I hope to create more in the future.

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Sign O’ The Times: Valentino Coming to NY for Pre-Fall 2017

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Now that Pierpaolo Piccioli has had time to settle into his role as solo Creative Director at Valentino, probably it comes as no surprise he’ll be looking to branch out in more ways than one.

Offering one more sign of changes taking hold at the brand, the designer will hold his pre-fall 2017 runway show in New York. Although the date has been set for January 11, the show location is as-yet unconfirmed.

“I am thinking of New York for June, too,” he told WWD. “New York seems to me the ideal location for the pre-collections; it’s international and has such charm.”

New York is international and has such charm.

Pre-fall is one of those nebulous fashion week events, spread across the “Big 4” and organized not so much by design as whimsy: which makes it a breath of fresh air, in the cluster of producers and organizers jockeying for attention during the more “organized” fashion weeks of February and September.

Piccioli told WWD “pre-collections are becoming super important, where style is fundamental. These collections really represent the company.”

Pre-collections are becoming super important, where style is fundamental.

Ever since fashion week has become more of a consumer-facing proposition, we’ve seen some of the traditional boundaries between the “Big 4” dissolve a bit, as witnessed by Givenchy‘s NYFW spectacle just a few seasons ago.

We’ll keep you posted at the Pre-Fall ’17 season develops.

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With love,

FWO

WWD Awards Ralph Lauren at First-Ever WWD Honors

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What is “American fashion?” If designers like Anna Sui, Jason Wu, and Marc Jacobs have anything to say about it, those words are synonymous with Ralph Lauren.

The question was posed to attendees of WWD’s first-ever WWD Honors, recognizing leaders in the fashion and retail industry. Their first honoree, of course: Ralph Lauren.

First-Ever WWD Honors

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(Photos: Photos: Abel Fermin / WWD/REX/Shutterstock)

And what a night. The room was a “who’s who” of notables, from Anna Sui, Jason Wu, and Marc Jacobs to John Varvatos and Carolina Herrera. But the focus of the evening was the boy from the Bronx who built a necktie line into a $7.5 billion global empire — who, incredibly, will soon be entering his 50th year in business.

Asked by WWD 10 years ago about his achievements, Lauren said:”This is not work. It’s passion, and it’s love.”

This is not work. It’s passion.

Legendary editor John B. Fairchild
Legendary editor John B. Fairchild

Lauren was recipient of WWD’s inaugural John B. Fairchild honor, recognizing a career of influence and distinction. The accolade was named after John B. Fairchild, the brilliant and mischievous editor who transformed WWD — and the fashion industry — by bringing designers to the forefront while focusing on “society” as well.

According to WWD editor-in-chief Ed Nardoza, the new honors “will provide WWD with a platform to acknowledge real achievement and accomplishment, especially at a time when the fashion industry is facing the challenges of digitization, globalization, overheated celebrity, and unpredictable consumer behavior. We’re especially proud to establish a lasting honor in Mr. Fairchild’s name. And there isn’t a more deserving person than Ralph Lauren, whose incredible career Fairchild has chronicled every step of the way, from that first wide necktie.”

“We’re especially proud to establish a lasting honor in Mr. Fairchild’s name,” said WWD’s editor-in-chief Ed Nardoza.

Alongside Ralph Lauren, some true power names within the retail/consumer space were honored as well:

Christian Dior CEO Sidney Toledano took home the CEO/Creative Leadership Award for building Dior into a global powerhouse amid the ever-changing luxury market.

Inditex (owner of Zara) was honored for Corporate Citizenship, an award accepted by Felix Poza Peña, Corporate Social Responsibility Director, and Nacho Mora, Corporate Social Responsibility.

Pandora A/S CEO Anders Colding Friis accepted the award for Best-Performing Company-Large Cap for his company, while Jeffrey Fowler, CEO of Farfetch UK, accepted the award for Best-Performing Company-Small Cap.

This night felt like a true testament to longevity of icons within fashion: a blend of new and old personnel who have brought the fashion and retail industry into a new age: where digital is now a part of the landscape, but the art of clothing still takes center stage.

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With love,

FWO

CAT Footwear: The “Make a Scene” Tour Comes to NY

Ever since the entrance of the “trucker hat” into fashionable circles at least 10 years ago, there’s been a certain place in everyone’s heart for a few unapologetically, traditionally “blue-collar” wardrobe items.

Indeed, “couture” brands like DSquared2 have made an art of it, with perfectly distressed jeans, corduroy caps, and giant, enameled belt buckles.

So with the mix of “high and low” styles enjoying a level of unprecedented success — hopefully a sign of the further deterioration of classisim — it’s no surprise that CAT, most commonly known for construction vehicles, would be looking to conquer the fashion scene.

CAT is looking to conquer the fashion scene.

The result? A  line of durable, comfortable, trendy shoes … and a hip New York party to kick it off.

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(Photos: Alyson Roy)

The dimly lit industrial space off Bowery was the launchpad for the current Fall/Winter 2016 collection, with a first look at the upcoming Spring/Summer 2017 line. The collection on view was composed of fashionable boots, sandals, and shoes for men and women alongside the caption, “Make a Scene.”

The shoes are perfect for the city-life — the line offers a lightweight shoe, and some are even waterproof. They’re perfect for changing climates, and even fashionable enough to wear to music festivals.

They’re fashionable enough to wear to music festivals.

The  party featured a DIY cocktail bar hosted by master mixologist Pamela Wiznitzer, the Creative Director of Seamstress New York; a pop-up tattoo parlor featuring temporary ink by Tattly; a photo booth courtesy of @DrinkBai; tunes by DJ Jasper Stapleton; and a curation of great eats thanks to @TheBrotherBuoy, including cookies and brownies by @ovenly, charcuterie by @cherrypointnyc and mini pop tarts by @hailmarybk.

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Learn more

http://www.catfootwear.com/US/en/home

Want to Make It in Fashion? (Save $80 on Fashionistacon.)

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Save $80 with FWO and Fashionista

If you love fashion, you already know Fashionista.com as one of the top sites for fashion lovers.

Now, Fashionista.com wants to help you find a successful career in fashion, with Fashionistacon.

fashionista Fashionistacon is a 1-day event featuring career-focused panels, keynote speakers, mentoring sessions, valuable networking, and an amazing gift bag. The focus of the event will probably prove appealing to anyone who’s ever seen The Devil Wears Prada (assuming you didn’t heed any of its implicit warnings — in which case, welcome to the club) or perhaps — a bit more humanely — The September Issue.

Entitled “How to Make it in Fashion,” the annual event is designed to help you network, while giving you an important “insider’s perspective” on the business.

Fashionistacon is a 1-day event that aims to help you succeed in fashion.

For 2016, Fashionistacon will provide networking with friendly folks (no Miranda Priestlys, we swear), plus insight into the latest trends in menswear (and the move toward combining men’s and women’s shows, as we saw at various designers’ presentations last season, from Tom Ford to Vetements to — well, at lots of presentations ); how to create (and maintain) a fashion label; and all about “influencers,” among other topics.

Patricia Field, costume designer for Sex in the City
Patricia Field, costume designer for Sex in the City

You’ll also hear from Sex and the City‘s costume designer Patricia Field; Cathy Horyn of The Cut … and much more.

And now, Fashion Week Online readers can save a generous $80 off, with code FWO.And — we have to mention it again — you’ll also walk away with a swank gift bag.

If you’re ready to create a career for yourself, Fashionistacon is a great way to start … or to continue on your journey.

 

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Learn More

Fashionistacon: How to Make it in Fashion

(Save $80 with code “FWO”.)

With love,

FWO

Dangerous Dais: Naeem Khan Fall 2017 Bridal Collection

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Naeem Khan Fall 2017 Bridal

the
’70s
revival automatically presents fertile ground for a someone with a history like ex-Roy Halston protégé Naeem Khan. But international travel also occupies a certain top-of-mind awareness for a man who has dressed everyone from Kate Middleton to Michelle Obama to Queen Noor of Jordan.

Princess Leia-inspired veils
Princess Leia-inspired veils

It’s no wonder, then, that for Fall 2017, Khan created a collection that channeled ’70s-era, form-fitting, bias-cut glamour, while taking us on a tour of international destinations.

The show was fun and the dresses were sexy, thanks to elegant pearls, swinging fringes, and lots of transparency.

To keep it playful, he even added in little Star Wars-inspired touches for good measure (Leia Amidala wedding, anyone?).
Leia Amidala wedding, anyone?

After all, there are space princesses among us, too, right?

The Show

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We loved the ornate, Castilian-inspired looks best, followed by the ’70s eveningwear pieces.

One thing Naeem does best is allow a bride to look both sexy and on-point at the same time. For a perfect example of this sensibility in play, look no further than the bridal boots, which he created in collaboration with Christian Louboutin, and the statement earrings by Ranjana Khan (@ranjanakhannyc).

Bridal boots: Christian Louboutin collaboration
Bridal boots: Christian Louboutin collaboration

Naeem allows a bride to look both sexy and on-point at the same time.

Surprisingly refreshing were Khan’s last two pieces, in canary yellow, and one with a diagonal hem that looked ready for a night of salsa right after the ceremony.

From IG @NaeemKhanNYC

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Want to go bold? When you say “yes” next season, take a break from the expected, and try a bright yellow wedding dress — Khan dares you to try.

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Learn More

NaeemKhan.com
IG @NaeemKhanNYC
IG @NaeemKhanBride

With love,

FWO

#VogueVIP Party with Matthew Williamson for CB2

(Story with Lisa Panke)

Matthew Williamson: True Colors

matthew-williamson-cb2What does Vogue do, when it wants to celebrate iconic British designer Matthew Williamson‘s new collection at CB2? Throw a party, of course.

The event was held at the CB2 Soho store in conjunction with Vogue VIP. (And if you haven’t gotten your new Clare V. clutch, what are you waiting for? (Our publisher is calling it his new “navy suede hunting pouch” to macho it up, although the only thing he hunts for is parking spaces in L.A.: insert rimshot.)

You know Williamson as (among other things), the former creative director for Emilio Pucci … or possibly via his collaboration with Prince for the “Chelsea Rogers” video.

He’s a designer of phantasmagoric color combinations that live somewhere between Fauvism and 1969 Joni Mitchell.

But you may know him better as a designer of phantasmagoric color combinations that live somewhere between Fauvism and what one might expect to see in Joni Mitchell‘s apartment circa 1969. Or — as we got to see at the CB2 opening — simply a gentle person, alive with brilliant ideas.

SoHo Fun

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Attendees sipped lychee martinis, champagne, and nibbled on little bites like butternut squash cucumbers and curry chicken tacos. On-the-go screen-printing was also available for guests, so they could take home a canvas tote customized with the British flag in Matthew’s signature prints.

FWO editors Emily Burnette and Lisa Panke
FWO editors Emily Burnette and Lisa Panke

There was also a cutting-edge photo booth by TheBosco.com.

Williamson created this line of furniture interiors and home accessories for CB2, which can be shopped here. The collection includes flamingo table toppers, gold accents, and rich turquoises and pinks. If interiors aren’t your thing, Williamson also designs ready-to-wear clothing and stationary.

Williamson created this line of furniture interiors and home accessories for CB2.

When I spoke to Williamson, he was polished, polite, and so charming.

“Do you own any of the CB2 pieces,” I asked? “Of course!” he said, laughing. “I have the Atol Bamboo Table, and I didn’t realize at first the legs screwed off. So now, when I’m between Spain and my newly purchased home in London, I take it with me!”

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Learn More

CB2.com
MatthewWilliamson.com
Vogue VIP

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With love,

FWO

FWO Special Recognition: Elisabetta Franchi Spring ’17

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Panic at the Italian Disco

D
on’t tell the PR people, but a great show isn’t about how many “celebrities” you can pack into the front row (“John Lozenge was in the front row? THE John Lozenge of the soon-to-be-released Space Dogs, according to IMDB? What did he think of the collection? He LOVED it???”); how many “it” girls you can pay to walk the runway; or how many self-obsessed bloggers you can whip into a selfie frenzy (who may or may not bring any attention to the actual show: if a tree falls in front of 700,000 Instagram followers — but isn’t actually recorded — does it make a sound?).

No. (Or at least, that’s our opinion, for what it’s worth.) A great show is about creating a spell: mainly — oddly enough — with the style and clothes.

Power Glamour

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(more pictures)

A great show is about creating a spell.

There’s no question that celebrity culture is good for fashion: like it or hate it. But ultimately, it’s about what you see on the models that counts.

By that metric, of so many amazing shows this season (although Paris hasn’t yet wrapped), it’s Elisabetta Franchi that’s gotten our pulses pounding the loudest.

The ’70s exploration that began in February 2015 (Fall 2015 collections) is still in pretty high gear, if the collections we’ve seen on the runway are any indicator (even Elie Saab got in on the act this season). But why the 1970s, anyway? It’s worth plumbing some of the (possible) reasons.

The 1970s posed a peculiar duality: the earthiness of the hippy movement, recast as boho (think suede fringe vests), and Studio 54 glitz as personified by Halston (bias cut evening dresses with shimmer). It’s not hard to see how this translates into larger modern cravings: on one hand, the desire to reconnect with something without a touchscreen — a “remember the earth!” aesthetic shouted from the racks of Free People; and on the other, a desire for bling that doesn’t require Swarovski crystals.

People want to be seen as never before. We could invoke the old Warhol quotation about “15 minutes of fame,” but the Sly Stone song “Everybody is a Star” seems more appropriate. And in a sense, it’s true: every one of us is pretty important, in that peculiar way that life is both “cheap” (the miracle of life is being cranked out, price-free, daily) and infinitely precious: even those beautiful human and non-human creatures not on IG.

People want to be seen as never before.

But no matter your interpretation, the dual 1970s aesthetics — from riding on the back of a palomino to an entrance on the disco floor — are still very much in vogue.

This season, no one captured the era, while bringing in bold swashes of ’60s and even ’80s, like Elisabetta Franchi. Most importantly, this was no mere pastiche: this was wearable couture that worked.

This was wearable couture that worked.

Here was pulse-pounding elegance; Dior “New Look”-worthy Y-line silhouettes that would look great even as shadows; chunky belts and necklaces; complex shimmer; and power-suits that channeled ’60s, ’70s, and even Dynasty-era ’80s with aplomb.

To wear one of these outfits to an event would mean making the rest of the room dim upon entering. And that’s where the show — and collection — succeeded best: in the magic of its spell.

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Learn More

elisabettafranchi.it

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With love,

FWO

5 Beauty Trends from London Fashion Week Spring 2017

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Lisiana Carterby Lisiana Carter

#LFW #Beauty #Trends

beauty-tipsLondon Fashion Week, which took place September 15 – 19, showcased creations from some the world’s best and most fashion-forward designers.

Solvaderm Skin Care

Despite the BREXIT vote that happened a few months back, London Fashion Week is simply too irresistible to make a similar exit from the hearts (and closets) of the people who truly love fashion.

But what about beauty? These are the only five things you need to take from London Fashion Week to help sculpt a style that’s all yours:

Trending Style No. 1

bella-hadid-versus-versace-wet-hair-lookWet and damp hairdos. Yup! Although the drenched hairstyle has been around since last season, it has never been as wet and damp as on Bella Hadid at Versus Versace. Bella was hot, hot, hot in a black leather jacket, and in what was inspired to be rain-soaked locks, donning a black one-piece black swimsuit underneath.

Her face, equally drenched, had an almost-no-makeup look that can be helped along by eye treatment formulations like Teamine or a more pricey option like SkinCeuticals. But really there are many excellent products on the market, so you may want to consult your dermatologist for best results.

It has never been as wet and damp as on Bella Hadid at Versus Versace.

Try this hairdo by immediately styling up your freshly washed hair. No need to towel dry. Simply comb your hair using a wide-toothed comb. Take a cosmetic-grade essential oil, possibly unscented coconut oil or sunflower oil and spread all over on your hair to lock in the wetness. Comb your hair into place. While you’re at it, why not voluminously divide your hair to one side? Hold the style with a stronghold gel. Bring a spray bottle with water and oil to spray on your hair throughout the day and night.

Use a cosmetic-grade essential oil to lock in the wetness.

Trending Style No. 2

Bows. Bows were everywhere — used as substitute for buttons, on braided locks on the Erdem runway, on bow-collared blouses, and bow-stringed flats. Keep it dainty, simple, and sweet, with “in” black or white ribbons. You can even use it as bracelet on your arms or, or let it hang loosely from your neck.

Erdem by Gio Staiano/Nowfashion
Erdem by Gio Staiano/Nowfashion

As a hair accessory, take inspiration from the hairstyles of models at the Erdem fashion show. The models’ hairs were given a low braid and then tucked up. The bow was wrapped around the head and then tied to a bow on the side of the neck and behind an ear.
Trending Style No. 3

Nude makeup or just blush. Again, these are two makeup trends that are already a mainstay, but also work perfectly well for your damp, brushed-up hairdo. Spend less time covering up your skin imperfections and even lesser time to put on your pigments. Make sure to give your skin the ultimate treatment with lightweight and sheer moisturizers, including essences, ampoules, serums, and eye creams, such as Teamine. It contains antioxidants, peptides and skin brightening ingredients which, combined, work out a formulation that is suitably matched to the needs of skin around your eyes.

Holographic Lip Gloss by Inglot
Holographic Lip Gloss by Inglot

Trending Style No. 4

Bold lipstick. Whether they’re glittered or deep and dark, even this season’s nude or just blush makeup looks will look extravagant and surprisingly attractive when topped with a bold lipstick. You can even try holographic, cruelty-free lip gloss from a company like Inglot. The bolder lip color that you are wearing, the better cover-up you should have on. Get ready to razzle and dazzle.

Trending Style No. 5

Flowers everywhere. From prints to embroideries, all the way to footwear, bags, jewelries, and hair accessories, the coming spring season will be in full bloom, as colorful flowers continue to dominate the creative and styling scene. Wear your flowers everywhere from your head, down to your toes.

More Trend Takeaways

This season will also be marked by bold, statement-puffed sleeves and equally bold layers of ginghams and stripes in monotones and multi-color themed outfits. Remember, anybody can wear these, but only a handful can bring the right attitude. If you feel confident owning these styles, then go ahead and be the first to wear them. But, if it makes you feel awkward, drop the idea; there’s always something else out there that’s right for you.

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Lisiana Carter is a renowned independent researcher and is studying the impact of technology in the beauty industry. She is passionate about beauty, makeup, fashion and skincare industry. She holds a Ph.D. in beauty and thereby has been consistently sharing her experience by writing various articles related to makeup, beauty, fashion and skin care. She has been writing on beauty and skin care related topics from the past 10 years. Follow her at www.thebeautyinsiders.com.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017 Ready-to-Wear Collection

Minimal Graffiti

01-yohji-yamamoto-s_s-2017-mainThe crowd was gathered in the rain. I immediately knew I was at the right place for the Yohji Yamamoto défilé: everyone was wearing black.

An occasional touch of white, but mostly head-to-toe black. It was a foreshadowing of the journey we were about to embark on, with the ferry arriving just beyond the elegantly carved double doors.

Yohji Yamamoto Spring 2017

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As the models emerged one by one, the clothes were what we were there to see, but the hair kept us all on our toes. The cowlick is back at Yohji Yamamoto, and it was first rather off-putting: but as more looks emerged, one immediately realized that the hair mirrored the bare-bones, shapely collection put before us by the man himself. Even the stroke of white paint on their faces added to the effect.

The cowlick is back.

Chunks of fabric wrapped around — and later loosely hung from — the models’ arms, as if bonded to the body of the outfit. Revamped overalls made an appearance and they looked damn stunning. Is Yamamoto showing us the future direction of the trendy neckband?

Revamped overalls made an appearance.

A major takeaway, season after season, is how easy Yamamoto makes his talent seem. His brilliance is in making it appear as if he just grabs a large square of fabric, rips a head and an armhole into it, decisively drapes it over a model, and sends her out to show the world. A major motif was raw-edged fabrics, hanging just over a shoulder or off the back of a jacket — or lazily down from a top. They sometimes appeared as an uneven and incomplete layer, although really it was just an accessory.

A sub-collection was shown in the middle, of mainly white garments with strategic paint spatters and smears that was a bit alternative to the norm — it had a rocker chick vibe: and just then, the music changed.

Just then, the music changed.

One very exciting and unexpected bit was the large, exterior breast pocket, just as I saw in Aalto‘s presentation at the start of the week. Get ready to expose what you’re carrying.

The one piece I am coveting is a black silk top layer which had an elegant “Yamamoto” engraved across the back, with its yarns hanging freely, just as the Yamamoto girl lives. It made me want to be a Yamamoto girl, strolling the streets in a relaxed and calculated assortment of fabric straps.

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Learn More

yohjiyamamoto.co.jp/en

With love,

FWO