MAN & Topman presented another amazing, adventurous show at this London Fashion Week Men’s. As always, the looks were artful and avant garde
The MAN project, established in 2005 by TOPMAN and Fashion East, was the first menswear scheme of its kind. MAN has launched and supported brands including: Kim Jones (Louis Vuitton), Craig Green, JW Anderson, Martine Rose, Christopher Shannon, Wales Bonner, James Long, Astrid Andersen, Liam Hodges, Per Gotesson, Charles Jeffrey LOVERBOY and more.
Its recipients are selected by a panel of industry experts including: Ben Reardon, Creative consultant; Charlie Porter, Financial Times; Jack Cassidy, Menswear buyer, Gordon Richardson; Creative Consultant, Luke Day, GQ Style; Lulu Kennedy, Fashion East; Sam Lobban, Mr Porte rand Tim Blanks, Business of Fashion.
Fashion East is a pioneering non-profit initiative established in 2000 by Lulu Kennedy and The Old Truman Brewery to nurture, develop and showcase emerging designers through the early stages of their career and has launched London’s top design talent.
London-based designer Stefan Cooke founded his brand with partner Jake Burt upon graduating from Central Saint Martins MA in March 2017. Whilst studying Cooke gained experience with Craig Green, Walter Van Beirendonck and assisted John Galliano in the lead up to his appointment as creative director of Maison Margiela. Cooke’s MA collection, which earned him the L’Oréal Professionnel Creative Award, explores sensory subversion by taking quintessentially ordinary clothes as a starting point, then photographing, digitally manipulating and transposing onto synthetic materials using digital and sublimation printing techniques. Stefan Cooke’s first collection will be stocked in Dover Street Market (London), Dover Street Market Ginza (Tokyo), Han Style (Seoul), Joyce (Hong Kong). Opening Ceremony (LA & New York). SS19 is Stefan Cooke’s second season with the support of MAN. / www.stefancooke.co.uk @stefan_cooke
ART SCHOOL is focused on redefining the limitations of gendered ready-to-wear fashion. Directed by the creative partnership of Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt, ART SCHOOL is a platform to express their collective ideas both in art and design using luxury fashion as a communicative too l to explore contemporary queerness. The label is informed by the founders and their friends’ non-binary gender identities and aims to celebrate the idiosyncratic individuality of queer style. ART SCHOOL is available from Selfridges (London), Shyness Concept Space (London) and Matchesfashion.com.
SS19 is ART SCHOOL’s third season with Fashion East’s MAN initiative. / www.artschool-london.com @artschool_london
This season, Alex Mullins showcased 27 looks, in a series of 9 triptychs.
CREDITS
Editorial: Alex Mullins
Instagram: @alexmullins111
Hair: Jonathan De Francesco at LGA Management using Fudge Professional
Make Up: Ciara O’Shea at LGA Management
Casting: Leila Azizi
Stylist: Victoria Sekrier @ LALALAND
Stylist’s Assistant: Millie Cullum
Music: FRERE – (Paul-Anthony Smith & Andy Savours)
Storm Ritter is one of those people who captures your attention right away. From running her eponymous studio at 14 W. 8th St. — just down the street from Hendrix’s extant Electric Lady sound studios — to petitioning to make 8th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues “Jimi Hendrix Way,” she’s both brilliant and driven.
She also personifies the best of both the “quirky” (which, in a sense, is just another word for someone who followers their unique interests, rather than blending into a pre-formed culture tribe) with the grounded.
As Bob Dylan sang in “Absolutely Sweet Marie,” “to live outside the law, you must be honest.” It’s a reminder that all great art is inherently both creative and destructive. In Jarry’s pre-Dada play Ubu Roi, Ubu says: “But we won’t have destroyed everything until we’ve destroyed the ruins, as well. And I can find no better way of doing so than by using these ruins to create fine, harmonious new edifices.”
In a world where matter is never destroyed, the final result of destruction is never nothingness: it’s conversion.
Storm knows how to challenge and destroy with colorful acts of creation.
My background is that of an authentic human. Work ethic is my art form. My history is rooted in theatrical design: scenic/costume/prop, editorial fashion styling, event production, fine art acrylic painting, expressionistic illustration, sculpture, and art/fashion/retro pop culture history. If there was a creative job open, I was at the door with my portfolio and résumé.
My background is that of an authentic human
Q: How long have you been an artist, and how did you begin?
Are you born an artist or do you become one? It’s all in your mind. I argue both sides, but the moment I stopped looking for influence from outside my head, I was officially an artist, so I’d say about ten years ago I felt the self-comfort to say so. Think, and let synchronicity happen.
Q: Growing up, what was your greatest frustration and greatest joy?
My age and overzealous passion to provide funds for myself and family.
Q: What are your artistic influences?
The colors and images you see when you shut your eyelids and stare in the blackness that turns into wonderment. Otherwise great artists in the realms of Surrealism, German Expressionism, Dada and French Impressionism, and the modern day homeless/struggling artists on the street in the Village. People of passion and hardworking nature, inspire.
Q: What is your artistic process?
You are what you eat: and what I consume is all art. Everything is process: archival is the key. As an ambidextrous artist, I work very fast. If I paint a canvas, the palette becomes artwork. If I am painting, drawing, sculpting, building, or screwing up, I am photographing it!
You are what you eat: and what I consume is all art
Q: What brought you to New York, and how long have you been in the West Village?
The History. The Energy. If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere. My work ethic matches NYC’s vibe. I have lived in Greenwich Village specifically for six years now. I opened Storm Ritter Studio at 14 West 8th Street in January 2016 and we are still going strong.
Q: You obviously have a great love of music. What are some of your favorite musical artists, and what turned you on to them?
Cat Stevens is a prophet. The Who writes the gospel. Jimi Hendrix plays the sounds of the angels. Cher preaches the struggle of the love. Dean Martin pours the wine. Depends on the era, but my love of music from 1919-1989 is quite vast. It’s music that makes me think and feel at home in different times.
Q: How does music today compare to music of the ’60s and ’70s?
Just like Adam and Eve’s poisonous apple, Apple iPhones have changed everything and everyone.
Q: Tell us about your petition to create a Jimi Hendrix Way? Where can people sign to support?
I am working with a passionate group of local NYC business owners, residents, and outsides parties to co-name and commemorate 8th Street between 5th and 6th Avenues as Jimi Hendrix Way. Hendrix founded Electric Lady Studios in 1970 and left a heavy legacy.
Q: What’s your favorite thing about the West Village? What would you like to see more of / what’s your vision for the area?
Historic preservation, street art, and more creative businesses.
I would love for the City to assist small business owners in not only finding the best possible location, but help them negotiate an affordable lease and terms.
I also think that a commercial lease should be more of a partnership between the landlord and tenant – a WIN WIN situation, not one person giving it all and another taking it.
I would love for the City to assist small business owners
Q: What are your fashion influences? What do you like and not like about the business? Are there any designers you like?
Edith Head and Bob Mackie.
The fashion industry is so commercial and inauthentic. I am more interested in a personal fashion lifestyle you make on your own. Living YOUR life and wearing what YOU are attracted to is what I am about. The collections I design and make are exactly that; I used to solely thrift-shop growing up, and never had a matching outfit to my peers. I make designer clothing intended to mimic this feeling, like you are finding a rare t-shirt or dress at a thrift store that you keep forever. Mass consumption is overrated.
I am more interested in personal fashion you make on your own
Q: Are you a spiritual person? If so, what is your concept of spirituality?
I am passionate in the esoteric world of palmistry and tarot. My very close friend, Frank Andrews, has taught me wisdom through practices of self-enlightenment, which in turn influence my surrealist paintings. There’s a book entitled The Consolation of Philosophy written by Boethius around AD 523 that changed my life.
Q: Why do you think people are so obsessed with celebrities and sensationalistic news?
People love to wear a shirt with Warhol on it. People like to idolize to associate themselves with someone dubbed cool instead of following in their fashion. Don’t wear a Marilyn Monroe shirt, wear what Marilyn wore if you’re a true fan. Be obsessed with YOUR brain — it’s brilliant & crazy in there.
Be obsessed with YOUR brain
Q: What do you think is missing from modern life (if anything), and what would you like to see more of?
An app that enables your phone to just call people, and do nothing else. Human nature would readjust and increase in deeper human interaction, successful collaborations, and meaningful philanthropic work.
Q: How did you meet your cat Velvet?
Our eyes met at the 92nd & 1st ASPCA when she was 5 months old in 2014. We’ve been an inseparable pair ever since.
Q: What kinds of things can people buy from your studio, and what does it mean to own or wear “a Storm Ritter?”
All of our products are made-in-house, one-of-a-kind, and f*cking cool. Owning a STORM RITTER means you purchased a work of art and a piece of West Village history. You’re buying a collectable, and we ensure endless compliments when you wear your new piece, or your money back.
Owning a STORM RITTER means you purchased a work of art
You can shop in store, order custom clothing, and/or shop online at www.stormritter.com.
Sold in major department stores such as Bloomingdale’s, Saks Fifth Avenue, Nordstrom, and Neiman Marcus, independent boutiques, as well as their website, Cosabella lingerie offers comfort that has to be experienced to be believed.
Known for their blend of “American innovation and Italian artisanship,” Cosabella aims to provide high-end sex appeal at affordable price points. Offering sizes from 30A to 40 DD in all styles of bras and bralettes, they also aim to have a fit for everyone.
A personal favorite, the Never Say Never bra and panty set provides sexy and comfortable all in one. The Never Say Never push up bra adds a lift and provides shape without being difficult to wear on a daily basis. With innovative floral lace material, no awkward lines show through clothing, and the panties always remain in place.
Having some Cosabella in your lingerie collection is an absolute must!
Use Code: FASHIONWEEKONLINE for 10% off your purchase.
Miami Swim Week is the largest swim and resortwear event globally, combining a market week with runway shows. Brands, buyers, media and influencers come from all over the globe to mix, mingle and do business.
Miami Swim Week is not organized by one single producer or entity. Rather, “Miami Swim Week” is the name given for the week as a whole, made up of multiple producers, events, parties, and trade shows. This year Swim Week will be held from July 12-17, 2018, with most of the events and action occurring from July 13-17.
“Miami Swim Week” is the name given for the week as a whole
The Trade Shows
The trade shows — which are open only to buyers, media and a handful of invited influencers — will be happening during the day. There are three trade shows, Swim Show, Hammock and Cabana.
The Runways
Likewise, there are three major runway platforms, Funkshion (now renamed Paraiso), Art Hearts Fashion, and SWIMMIAMI, along with brand presentations and parties which have dominated the scene in the last few years.
This year there are a slew of new platforms, but only one that seems to be established, called Paraiso, formerly known as Funkshion. This year, Funkshion has rebranded as Paraiso and will be known under this name moving forward. Funkshion / Paraiso was one of the major runway platforms that took over when IMG left the market, and holds runway shows in a large tent in Collins Park, which is across the street from Cabana, caddy-corner to Hammock, and blocks away from Swim Show. They also have gorgeous shows with runways built over pools at The Setai and Nautlius South Beach.
There has been an interesting twist to the saga this season, as a company has secured the Instagram handle @miamiswimweek is apparently going to create a runway platform.
This has caused a lot of confusion for people, and I actually reached out to the producer to learn more about it, so I could provide insight for clients. I asked very simple questions about the production of the event, including where it would be held. The producer couldn’t answer any of my questions and actually got quite defensive with me.
this season, a company that has secured the Instagram handle @miamiswimweek has caused a lot of confusion for people
App-Tastic Fun at Paraiso
There will also be a slew of consumer-facing events, with an app to appear under the Paraiso umbrella!
According to their press release, PARAISO guests will be invited to use the app to collect a virtual AR token at every scheduled event.
Once participants have collected a token at four events, they will be rewarded with a VIP invitation to an exclusive, secret event that evening that will feature an A-list musical performance and mind-blowing experience.
I have spoken with the producers and it sounds really innovative, and some of the exclusive VIP events are going to have some major performers. Paraiso will run July 12-16, 2018.
PARAISO guests will be invited to use the app to collect a virtual AR token
SWIMMIAMI is using this season to thoughtfully analyze a bit, but may have a small footprint featuring some runway shows from recognizable brands that will be worth visiting.
The Trends
We have talked to a few of the top agencies for the “it” swimwear brands and it looks like this is going to be the “year of the party.”
Fashion Week Online is working with all of the agencies and brands to ensure a comprehensive and free calendar of all of the best events during Miami Swim Week, including contacts to request an invite.
Stay tuned for more information, brand bios, and more fun!
We’ve been watching “canine couturier” Anthony Rubio for some time, and this was just too good to keep to ourselves.
In Rubio’s tribute to Heavenly Bodies, the recent Met show (and the theme of the Met Gala earlier this month, expertly organized by the beautiful Eaddy Kiernan), Rubio creates some venerable vêtements around the theme, and it’s just a lot of fun to see in action.
Says Rubio: “Each year as soon as the announcements are made pertaining to the selected theme of the much-anticipated Met Gala, I begin researching and sketching … to decide how to execute my own renditions for dogs. Last year my designs were featured in world-renowned high fashion publications so, of course I went right to work on this year’s theme, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.
“The subject matter offered a plethora of inspirations as done by some of the greatest fashion designers of our times. I spared no expense on materials I chose, including crystal-encrusted chainmail. I toiled and strategized for each design to produce my master pieces. I worked to recreate some features and reinvented others which were executed meticulously.
I spared no expense on materials I chose, including crystal-encrusted chainmail.
The end products are the following as modeled by my Chihuahua boys Bogie (tri-colored) and Kimba (blonde). I am proud to unveil these and hope that you will appreciate my works and all the work and imagination that went into these.”
Canine Couture Coffee Table Book
Rubio’s team says: “Anthony Rubio’s hard cover coffee table book Canine Couture will feature shelter pets in editorial outfits. The book will consist of grand editorial creations of high fashion, rock/pop stars, iconic red carpet looks, and other themed looks. The book will be a huge 9×12 coffee table book with 250 pages. We have gathered 5 amazing photographers, each with a unique point of view to shoot for the book. The book will consist of 90% new images.”
You can support the book (which also supports pet adoption) here.
About Anthony Rubio
New York-based Anthony Rubio is an internationally acclaimed pet couturier. His Canine Couture is meticulously handcrafted by the designer, utilizing the finest materials to produce a one-of-a-kind creation for your four-legged family member, taking into full consideration comfort and safety above all.
For the 4th consecutive year, Monaco Madame magazine will be organizing its very exclusive Monaco Madame’s Night during the Monaco Yacht Show, in a magical place, the only hotel with its private beach in the Principality: Le Méridien Beach Plaza.
In a very contemporary and bright space, with a breathtaking sea view, more than one hundred “happy few” will discover emerging international luxury brands.
Created in 2001, the Principality’s first women’s magazine is a quarterly reflection of the world of luxury, lifestyle, fashion, beauty, well-being, and people associated with Monaco.
Fifteen years later, it is sold not only in Monaco but also in France, Switzerland, and Belgium.
Coloured Raine Founder Loraine Dowdy Takes Us Through Her Home and Talks Her Brand
Most cosmetic brand founders don’t have a background, much less work experience, in the finance industry.
And it’s certainly not the origin one would expect after seeing the array of colors and daring products that Coloured Raine produces.
Yet Loraine Dowdy, founder of cult cosmetic brand, exudes an idiosyncratic charm. You’d never guess she came from a world known for its utilitarian attitude and gray-on-gray aesthetic. She’s bubbly, kind, and gives the distinct impression that she is wise.
We asked Loraine to answer some questions in the comfort of her home about Coloured Raine’s mission, who she is, and what we can expect to see from Coloured Raine, which is already wonderfully unique, and on a very different path than mainstream cosmetics.
DZHUS’ Spring/Summer 2018 line unveils the designer’s secret passion: palaeontology.
Having explored the phenomenon of generation and development of life on Earth for years, simultaneously with her patternmaking experiments, Irina Dzhus has eventually come up with unique zoomorphic silhouettes and geologic textures of the “Archaea” collection.
The conceptual cut of the multifunctional transformer garments pays honour to fossils of ammonites and trilobites, evolution of charnia and arthropleura, long-gone Carbon and Ordovician.
Along with the biological leitmotif, the collection carries an association with the scientific avant-garde of late 19th – early 20th centuries, appealing to the Victorian aesthetics as well as laboratory uniforms.
DZHUS’ Spring/Summer line features a vast variety of edgy yet exquisite textiles: crushed silk, mélange linen, sheer crepe, finest woollen gauze, cotton with a distressed effect. Traditionally, DZHUS have used alternative fabric finishes, accentuating the technological background of their design.
ABOUT DZHUS
DZHUS is a conceptual womenswear brand launched in 2010 by Ukrainian designer and stylist Irina Dzhus.Avant-garde yet utilitarian, DZHUS is known for innovative cut, multifunctional transformer garments and austere industrial aesthetics. Inspired by the complex structure of the ambient, Irina Dzhus generates unique experimental constructions.
Short-listed for the International Woolmark Prize in 2015, DZHUS present their collections during Ukrainian Fashion Week, Paris Fashion Week and International Fashion Showcase in London.
DZHUS vegetarian-friendly clothing is stocked at concept stores in the USA, Austria, Japan, China, Australia, UAE, Saudi Arabia and Ukraine and sold online worldwide. DZHUS’ customer is a nonconformist intellectual in search of the perfect shell for her unique inner world.
The brand has been featured in the top international media: Vogue, Dazed&Confused, Harper’s Bazaar, Marie Claire, Elle, Elle Decoration, Cosmopolitan, L’Officiel, Noi.Se, Dash, Remark, Status, Jute, Giuseppina, Lucy’s, Dezeen.com and many more.