Glitter and Grunge: Under the Seam with Kelly Dempsey of Rack Addik

(Video: Joe Loper of Guerilla Photography)

Interview with Kelly Dempsey of Rack Addik

Project Runway alum Kelly Dempsey recently debuted her FW17 collection at AMCONYC during New York Fashion week. The new collection was the latest from Rack Addik, her fashion-forward streetwear line (with some items already available for purchase online).

Rack Addik’s Fall/Winter 2017 collection was constructed with intent to exist in a “world without labels.” Dempsey says, “I believe that real beauty is present once you are able to look at someone and view them without confinement.”

FWO’s Melanie Sutrathada caught up with Dempsey backstage to ask her about the new collection.

Q: How would you describe the collection in 3 words?

Glitter and grunge.

Q: What inspired this amazing glitter and grunge collection?

What I love about the grunge era is that nobody gives a crap about anything. You know, I don’t believe in labels. I feel like when you put labels on things, it sort of constricts your creativity, and I really want to have a collection where — if I want to wear bright pink with black sparkle, sure — if I want to wear bell bottoms why not? Like who is going to tell me no. I wear what I want.

So I sort of want to put that message out. You can do whatever the hell you want.

When you put labels on things, it sort of constricts your creativity.

Q: I have to say that that is so Kelly on so many levels. I think if you’ve seen her on TV, she’s got such a vivacious personality, and it really shows through in her clothes. I feel like everyone who wears your clothes is just having a ball of a time.

Always fun.

Q: What would you be doing if you weren’t a designer?

I consider myself more of an artist than a designer. I love to make things and see it on the runway, it’s amazing.

Q: This is your second collection show with AMCONYC. Can you tell me a little bit about the process of making it all happen?

It was a little bit last-minute this season, which is always … what am I saying, it’s always like that. So running around crazy, but I feel like I do my best work last minute, pulling everything together, so I’m super excited to see how everything comes out.

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Learn More

www.rackaddik.com
www.amconyc.com

With love,

FWO

Paris Fashion Week Spring 2018

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Paris Fashion Week Dates

It rained. I was cold. My iPhone even died (as in, permanently), as I stepped off the plane at Charles de Gaulle.

And yet, even as we head into Summer, with Paris not due to start until September, we’re already looking forward to Paris Fashion Week.

I’ve even reserved my room at Le Narcisse Blanc, which will mean walking to shows at the Grand Palais … as opposed as to catching a cab like last time (with no phone to Uber, remember) only to realize I’ve forgotten my wallet back at the hotel, which means taking the cab back to the hotel, only to miss the show completely. Good times.

There were so many great shows last season — from DROMe to Manish Arora — not to mention show stoppers like Chanel. Fashion week may, indeed, be “brutal” (as a friend recently said to me; I immediately thought, “yes, that’s the word — brutal!”); but if you love beauty and art, especially in hallowed halls like those in Paris — there’s still nothing else like it.

The dates for Paris Fashion Week Spring / Fall 2018 are set for September 26 – October 3, 2017.

We’ll keep you posted with more news as we get close to the dates.

Have a beautiful summer.

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(Image: Manish Arora)

With love,

FWO

Interview with Super-Stylist Ty Hunter at Michael Costello

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(Main image via style.nine.com.au)

Video by Geoffrey Jones

Interview with Ty Hunter

Qeen Bey’s “forever stylist” Ty Hunter is a personality in his own right: he’s creator of the Ty-Lite, a selfie-lighting phone case for dark situations, styled Destiny’s Child, and he has his own clothing collection, With Passion.

Writer Eila Mell caught up with him backstage at Michael Costello.

Q: I’m here at Michael Costello show with one of my favorite people, Ty Hunter. How are you?

I love you. You’re one of my favorite people.

Q: Oh, you’re the best. I know that you are very special to Michael. How did you first meet?

I met Michael doing the Grammys a couple of years ago. I had all the racks and racks of dresses but — The Beyhive has a lot to do with this: Beyoncé’s fans always tagged me with Michael’s looks and stuff.

The Beyhive has a lot to do with this.

So I ended up going to Grammy pre-party that night, and I ran into Michael and I was like “You know what? I want to come to your showroom tomorrow because I love your work.”

And I went to the showroom and he showed me all this stuff, and I saw a lot of beautiful things, but not “that one thing.”

Q: The dress that was special.

 
Thank you. And he said, “Well, let me go upstairs,” and that dress was laying there, with no zipper and I said, “That’s it.” And it made history; it’s in the Grammy Museum. And Michael is just an amazing person.

It made history; it’s in the Grammy Museum.

We built a relationship; I use him all the time, he is family, all the tours, everything. His turnaround is great, the quality is great, and he is just talented.

Q: What a great story that you went to him.

 
Yeah, and he has a tattoo of the day that Beyoncé wore his dress because it was very life-changing for him.

Q: Is that with the zipper?

 
No, he put the actual date on his arm.

Q: Wow.

 
Yeah.

Q: That’s awesome. We all know that Ty dresses Beyoncé, but who else are some of your clients?

Ty Hunter by Reflex at Six:02 (coming soon to Foot Locker)

You know, I dress everybody. But right now I’m just focusing on Ty Hunter and I’m building my brand. I have this amazing women athleisure line that I just did with Six:02, I collaborated with Reflex and it’s my designs, it’ll be in all the Foot Lockers on the 23rd, exclusive in New York for 7 days, and then everywhere else.

Right now I’m focusing on Ty Hunter and I’m building my brand.

Q: And online, too?

 
Yes. I’m really excited, and I’m going to get you a little something.

Q: Oh, I like that. Excellent. That’s the best part of my job. It was so great to see you.

You too, you look fabulous and I love you, always.

Q: Thank you. Oh, love you.

 
Anything for you.

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Learn More

Ty Hunter by Reflex at Six:02
@tytryone on IG

With love,

FWO

Interview with J. Alexander

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Video by Geoffrey Jones

Interview with Miss J.

Your already know J. Alexander from America’s Next Top Model.

Eila Mell caught up with Miss J. backstage at Michael Costello during New York Fashion Week for a little one-on-one.

Q: How are you?

 
I’m fine, a little bit cold but fine but I’m real snuggled up in my little GAS jeans.

Q: Looking great. So J., I don’t know if people know you really have taught so many of the most famous models how to walk.

Yeah, it all started back in the … (ahem)

Q: Right, yeah, we don’t want to say years.

It’s [not important] when it started … I just ended up with this really great TV career with America’s Next Top Model.

Q: Yes, everybody knows J. from that.

 
And I was strict, but — I always thought — a bit polite and nice to the girls. I was firm, very, very firm. And fashion has been a part of my life since birth.

Fashion has been a part of my life since birth.

I mean I think just creating things to be a part of a fashion movement over the years has been a great opportunity. It’s opened up my eyes a lot more than I thought, than I could imagine.

Even though I went to school to be an accountant when I’d been in Bronx.

Q: What?

 
Yeah, I went to school to be an accountant when I’d been in Bronx. I just took science to fashion.

I went to school to be an accountant. I just took science to fashion.

Q: What was the first show you ever went to?

 
The first show I went to was Geoffrey Beene.

Q: Did you sneak in or did you have an invite?

I snuck in. You know, it’s really funny, I snuck in to shows for about the first 20+ years and I’ve been living in Paris.

Q: One last question, who do you think has the best walk right now?

Anyone who can maneuver this ice and slush today has the best walk.

Q: Oh, then that could be me.

 
This is my first Michael Costello show actually.

Q: Oh, you’re going to love it. I saw the collection, it’s great.

I met his uncle once in a cafe once in L.A. Strange.

Q: That is funny.

 
He’s had great success, I’m really happy for him but it’s great to be supportive of people who went through emotion and have been doing pretty, pretty well. I’m happy for him.

Q: And you know, he is self-taught.

 
I love him even more, because so am I. Wow.

Q: Great talking to you. Thank you.

 
Michael, I didn’t know that. Wow. Bravo. Same thing here. Number seven of ten children, I’d recreate clothes when I would get the hand-me-downs.

I’d recreate clothes when I would get the hand-me-downs.

Q: And you would rework them for yourself.

 
Back to this jacket here, the sleeves are too short and I hated them short, so I just added this on.

Thanks Andrew Morrison for letting me go to his showroom in a work room and grabbing a half yard of ribon and sewing it up and then attaching it to the lining, and here it is.

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Learn More

@Miss_JAlexander

With love,

FWO

So Much Better on Holiday: Georgine FW17

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Poetic Chic at Georgine FW17

Black, swinging curls, gold gleaming dresses and fancy fur — Georgine Ratelband and Chris Roshia presented their autumn / winter collection, which I would describe as “edgy, cool and elegant,” but also as one of my personal highlights for NYFW 2017.

The inspiration for the new collection came from permanent hotel dwellers, “those glamorous creatures that have called the world’s most interesting properties home. Ranging from Coco Chanel’s suite at The Ritz and Oscar Wilde’s chambers at Hotel d’Alsace, to Howard Hughes‘ bungalow at The Beverly Hills Hotel, and Edie Sedgwick’s room at The Chelsea Hotel, the energy of a chic enclave fueled their creativity and made everyday feel like a permanent vacation.”

Dark City

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Like all great designers, Georgine is sharply attuned to silhouettes, with pairings that created sharp, smart lines from top to bottom.

Much as in their SS17 collection, the luxury womenswear label presented a strong and confident look with feminine details like transparent lace and dazzling metallics. What’s the hottest trend we spotted? Clearly the skinny scarf, wrapped around the models’ necks, plus sexy lace under suits and pencil skirts.

What’s the hottest trend we spotted? Clearly the skinny scarf.

Olive green and purple leather coats, perfected by rich fur, will keep you warm as soon as trees start to shed their leaves.

Before the show we got a glimpse of Romero Jenning‘s work with the M.A.C Pro Team. The makeup was different on each girl, with smokey eyes, a nude lip, and highlighted cheekbones in common. The result?

A grungy, cool and edgy style for the downtown girl in posh Park Avenue clothes.

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Learn More

georgine.com

With love,

FWO

Less Mean Streets: Backstage at Gypsy Sport NYFW FW17

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Backstage at Gypsy Sport

Intro by Pablo Starr

There’s something just a little pretentious about the term “MADE Tribe” (MADE, of course, being the division of IMG entrusted with the production of the “coolest” shows on a world-class roster).

But there was nothing reprehensible in a joyously fun show from Gypsy Sport produced by MADE (and MADE “tribespeople”), inspired by street protests and people who call the street their home. Or the fact that a part of the show’s proceeds were given to the Bowery Mission.

If the show’s intent was to be a celebration of life, it was certainly a success, as the feeling of joy, and unbridled creativity, was in full effect.

If the show’s intent was to be a celebration of life, it was certainly a success.

The show presented a notion on the furthest end of the social continuum from “tribe” — a concept linked to “me on the inside,” “you on the outside,” “otherness,” and every other form of useless conflict.

This was a reminder that we are all one big human family, full of frailties and vulnerability, and every kind of odd-ballery.

A world where — like the “new fashion” — all are welcome to the party.

 
A Glimpse Backstage by Chris Lavish

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(Photos: Chris Lavish)

For more on this show, we recommend Chioma Nnadi‘s excellent writeup in the “mother of all inclusiveness,” Vogue.

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With love,

FWO

Inès de la Fressange x ELLE at Ritz Paris Concept Store

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Puttin’ on the Ritz with Inès de la Fressange x ELLE

There’s so much to tell about Inès de la Fressange, it’s actually difficult to know where to begin.

In the ’80s, she became the first model to sign an exclusive modeling contract with an haute couture house — possibly the greatest of all couture houses, Chanel — under the auspices of Karl Lagerfeld.

She was the first model to sign an exclusive modeling contract with an haute couture house.

She walked Gaultier at age 51, and lent her likeness to bust of Marianne, the ubiquitous symbol of the French Republic.

And she is, by all accounts, a beautiful person in the only way that matters: beauté intérieure, with smarts and wit, and rich in spirit (which is all we ever have).

 
Ritz’s “Concept Store”
 
Now Inès has come to The Ritz‘s Concept Store: a modern cabinet of very fashionable curiosities that would make founder César Ritz proud of the way the hotel has continued pushing the envelope, beginning with the legendary hotel’s recent $450 million, four-year renovation.

The new Ritz isn’t kidding around, with a CHANEL Spa (with 3 amazing “universes:” fragrance, makeup and skin care), shopping gallery, 5 exclusive boutiques (Tasaki, Reza, Maison Ullens, Colombo Via della Spiga, Heroes), 95 “showcases” of Ritz Paris brand products (jewelry, timepieces, R2W, accessories, home, haute couture) … and more.

The new Ritz isn’t kidding around, with a CHANEL Spa and more.

Not to mention a personalized shopping service and cooking classes.

If the Ritz Paris looks just a little like Versailles, that’s probably no accident. Staying here would make anyone feel regal, and given the means, you could probably live in this self-contained universe, and still step right into the Place Vendôme as a launchpad for your daily adventures.

you could probably live in this self-contained universe …

At the Inès de la Fressange x ELLE capsule collection (running through June 30), you’ll find a curated selection of the designer’s favorite objects, an assortment of books and tips, addresses, ELLE guides and a collection of ELLE perfumes for children. In short, all the essentials for a life lived in Parisian style.

The Inès de la Fressange x ELLE capsule collection runs through June 30.

If you’re traveling to Paris for Paris Fashion Week — or any other occasion — the new Inès de la Fressange x ELLE collection is a “must-see.”

 
Ritzy Business: Inside The New Ritz

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It’s also a great excuse to come take a tour of the newly renovated Ritz. Everyone should go at least once in their lives.

We might even see you there.

(Main image: PurePeople.com. Ritz photos courtesy Ritz Paris.)

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Learn More

ritzparis.com

With love,

FWO

Song of Fire and Spice: Nicholas K FW17

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Nuthin’ But a “K” Thing

They say troubled times make for great art, and maybe that’s what drove such a spectacular collection, and show, from the Nicholas K team for FW17.

As is tradition, Mother Nature — jealous that she cannot attend the shows — came gate-crashing with her most powerful blow at the start of New York Fashion Week. A bone-chilling blizzard descended upon New York as all fashion professionals prepped for Day 1.

Fortunately, another Day 1 tradition is Nicholas K’s show, which always kicks off the season, and the design duo’s runway immediately turned up the heat, with an uncharacteristic show of warmer color, layering, and exquisite draping, creating one of NK’s most inspired collections in recent memory.

Nicholas K FW17

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Also on fire was an extraordinary, thought-provoking track by Rob Swift and Latasha Alcinor (where can we buy this track?), that spoke directly to some of the angst and anguish of the current era, where it feel like gains in equality and social justice have taken a big step back in a somewhat perverse turn of political events.

Also on fire was an extraordinary, thought-provoking track by Rob Swift and Latasha Alcinor.

As the team said themselves: “The 90s was a decade promising communal diversity and unity. This decade was also the golden age of hip hop. … Experimentalism became celebration of diverse widespread cultural acceptance. The late ’90s … brought the promise of a global humanitarian community. Recent events seem to unravel this progress and it’s now relevant to revisit the promise of the 90s.”

The late ’90s … brought the promise of a global humanitarian community.

Nicholas K — a collaboration of Christopher Kunz and Nicholas Kunz — is traditionally filled with neutrals and a very minimalist aesthetic: their own brand of “urban nomad chic.”

But from the moment the hard 808 first hit the air — and look appeared on the runway — this was a new Nicholas K, leather tams replacing Kangol hats, with beautiful winter coats that were chic while still creating a rugged RTW proposition. From start to finish, the brand played with fresh color and fabric combinations, enhanced by jewelry from K/LLER.

This was a new Nicholas K.

A beautiful play of velour, with an exaggerated copper color palette, made for elegance while still being sporty. The collection was extremely cohesive yet very diversified.

In short, they nailed it. Some pieces within the collection may not be for everyone; however, I would challenge anyone to not find at least 5-10 pieces from the collection they do not love.

In short, they nailed it.

The intention, vibe, and mastery of form were a welcome start to such a cold winter day of fashion week, and perhaps longer, in the deathly chill of a freezing political climate.

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With love,

FWO

Interview with Pamella Roland at NYFW FW17

On a Roll

Not everyone decides to become a fashion designer in their 40s. And not many designers of any age experience the kind of tremendous success enjoyed by Pamella DeVos, of Pamella Roland, who boasts an extended celebrity clientele (as if that mattered).

But as Pamella tells us in this interview, her greatest joy is in making anyone feel special.

Writer Kyleigh McCollam of C’est Le Style caught up with Pamella after the show to ask her a few questions about the collection.

Walking Art

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Q: What was the inspiration behind this season’s collection?

Our customer loves to wear jewel tones in the fall. I love all the berries and garnets and aubergine. So I told my design team, this is what we’re doing this year. Because I love these colors.

Q: What’s your creative process when designing each collection, from the fabrics to the silhouettes?

It depends what you start with. This time, I started with a painting. [The collection was inspired in part by Mark Rothko.] Then you start looking through fabrics. I love fabrics. Obviously we’re doing beaded dresses, so we go through a lot of samples looking at beading. Let me tell you; that can take awhile. It’s fun, but they can start looking alike after awhile.

This time, I started with a painting.

Q: What is your favorite piece from this collection and why?

You know what, my favorite is the one that opened the finale; the strapless, the one with the ribbons in all the different colors. What was so great about that is it has all of our inspiration colors. And there was a lot of hand work in that dress.

Q: Describe the ideal “Pamella Roland woman” — who is she, and what does she represent?

I get asked this often, and they’re really all ages.

I’ve dressed the daughters, and their mothers, and grandmothers. Obviously we’re known for our gowns and cocktail dresses. So a lot of the time, it’s a really special event they’re going to.

I’ve dressed daughters, mothers, and grandmothers.

So more than anything, I just want them to feel good in it, and feel good about themselves in our dresses.

They’re kind of a piece of art. A walking piece of art.

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Learn More

www.pamellaroland.com

With love,

FWO

Desigual-ity: Desigual Explores Equality and Freedom at New York Fashion Week

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Interview with Desigual Brand Communications Director Daniel Perez

Intro by Pablo Starr

If there’s any time when it feels like the forces of freedom and containment are marshalling at opposite ends of a battlefield (or just political spectrum … or maybe both) that time is now.

But wait: this has happened before. And it’s part of the larger dialectic: that sometimes painful push-pull between thesis and antithesis that brings about change.

Indeed, rebellion has gotten us to where we are today: an age, simply put, of more rights for more people. With more work to come.

Desigual’s FW2017 collection is here to remind us of that.

Rebellion has gotten us where we are today: more rights for more people.

 
Status Quo Vadis

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Interview by Lisa Panke

“For Fall 2017, the Desigual collection was inspired by the female uprisings of the ’60s, ’70s and ’80s – reinterpreted for the 21st century woman of today. A countercultural mix of West Coast love-ins, European New Wave, and East Coast Voguing Balls are punctuated by the signature lightheartedness and playfulness that define the Desigual brand.”

Lisa Panke met backstage with Desigual Brand Communications Director Daniel Perez backstage to find out more.


(Photos: Chris Lavish)

Q: What can we expect today, Daniel?

 
We’re going to see a collection that is very much Desigual, but you’re going to see a very refreshed proposal. Very much what Desigual is known for, which is handmade, color, mixing elements. But very refreshing, very young, and very contemporary.

The collection takes its inspiration from the subcultures of the ’60s, ’70s, and ’80s … especially subcultures that talked about women and questioned the status quo, gender, and freedom.

Q: That’s sounds so amazing. I can’t wait to see it! What’s it like coming here to New York every year to present this collection?

It’s very, very exciting for us. We’ve been coming here every six months for a few years, and every time it’s just as exciting as the beginning. We always want to make it better. You have to keep surprising people, which is not easy.

You have to keep surprising people, which is not easy.

That’s why we always want to do new things.

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More info.

desigual.com

With love,

FWO