White, elegant and delightful – Les Copains celebrated its 60 year anniversary with a collection, which reminded us of a cocktail party on a warm summer evening in the Toscane. White, gold and beige outfits appeared on the catwalk after Michele Bravi’s opened the show, performing his song “Il diario degli errori”.
Les Copains, known for its elegant, high quality, Italian made products, celebrated 60 years of the brand, a milestone, which will be remembered in form of a stunning SS19 collection. The label, founded in the 60s by Cavalier Mario bandiera, drew our attention to chiffon dresses, gold-metallic jumpers and details as bands, plaits and suede fringes.
White and beige prevailed last night’s collection, gold gleam and metallic effects made it shine. We loved the light, white blouses under sparkling, sleeveless hoodies, worn over suede bermudas in grey, and finished up with flat shoes with embroidered crest. Knowing Bandiera, he put a lot of effort in the details and gave special care to the material and the texture of the items. He remained true to the brand’s philosophy and created a simple, but elegant collection without being excessive. The “Mini pull”, which became the symbol of the Italian fashion house in the 60’s,arrived with metallic stripes, while the recognizable knitwear was also present. A white, long off-shoulder-dress with suede seam and puffy sleeves made white underwear shine through.The mermaid train gave an elegant twist to the casual knitted dress, which could also be worn casually after a day at the beach.
At the end of the show the Palazzo Reale shrouded in red light, shining on the models standing on the stage. Guests were invited to take a closer look with a strong confidence about quality and the garment’s excellence.
The SS19 Beatrice b collection presents a new and eclectic journey.
New haute-tech researches, new colour combinations and visual impacts create different worlds that are all part of the same universe of Beatrice b. While rooted in the present, it pushes its stylistic language towards the future.
Timeless black and white is revisited with lilac and citrus accents, notes of colour that bring sophistication within a strong geometric frame. Black and white fringes and leather suits break the linearity of the silhouettes, giving a bold twist and a contemporary attitude. Fierce magenta is the heart from which hyper-glamorous sequins and abstract striped and micro-spotted dresses are born and which pay a tribute to a hyper-iconic style in which elegance meets new-tribal. Black brings this dynamic and visually-striking universe towards an elegant and sophisticated allure.
Vintage scarves prints are reinterpreted giving life to dynamic dresses in which patchwork creates different sections of colour and influences that reshape fluid and soft lines. Stamina orange-total looks contrast with saddle-stitched mixed linen fabrics in which a soft reference to country style is mixed with the strength of bold colours.
Haute-tech compact jersey and embroidered denim meet three-dimensional textures and backgrounds imbued with yellow and orange that create a mix between over-sized shapes and pleated suits where stands the continuous research of fine materials that have always characterised Beatrice b.
The second annual New York Denim Days took place Saturday, Sept. 22 and Sunday, Sept. 23 at Metropolitan Pavilion and featured some of the top brands in denim, new designers, vintage good and musical performances by Nikki Lane and Friends.
Title Sponsor TENCELTM branded fibers by Lenzing was on site with interactive displays and shop-in-shops stocked with a selection of garments using its fiber from top brands, including 3X1, Mavi, Reformation, Godfather of Denim and more.
+Denim Days Kick-Off
American Airlines and New York Denim Days welcomed more than 400 festival exhibitors and guests on Friday, Sept. 22 to kick-off the second annual festival. The event at Opry City Stage featured musical performances by headliner Nikki Lane, along with Edan Archer, Hugh Masterson and Daddy Long Legs. Specialty cocktails were provided by Stolen Spirits.
+Denim Speaker Series
Denim Days welcomed a selection of speakers including designers, makers and innovators for a Denim Talks speaker series featuring Q&As, panels and lectures. The speaker sessions included “The Evolution of Denim + A Peek at the Future” with Jordan Nodarse of Reformation, Adriano Goldschmied of Genius group, Scott Morrison of 3×1 and Tricia Care of Tencel; as well as an influencer panel with Lamont Howard, Kim Geronimo, Alexandra Machover, Sarah Funk and Bryan Griffin.
+Denim Book Store // Denim Author Book Signings
Denim Days featured on-site book signings and a chance to meet-and-greet with denim authors including Amy Leverton (Denim Dudes, Denim: Street Style, Vintage, Obsession), Andrew Luecke (COOL: Style, Sound and Subversion), Peter Van Rhoon (Book of Denim Vol. 2), Doug Gunn and Roy Lucket (Worn x Kingpins, The Vintage Showroom: An Archive of Menswear) and Nick Williams (Denim Branded: Jeanswear’s Evolving Design Details).
+Atelier & Repairs Design Competition
Cult-favorite brand Atelier & Repairs is an initiative to eliminate the world’s excess, one stitch at a time. They have a mission to not create anything new, but instead transform what already exists. At the 2018 Denim Days, Atelier & Repairs challenged students of New York City’s Fashion High School to transform a $5 T-shirt into a garment of their own design. The winners were two young women from the high school, who received a mentorship by Atelier & Repairs creator Maurizo Donaldi.
+HUDSON presents GET LIT
GET LIT is an award-winning youth poetry organization including the most watched poets on the internet. The inspiring performance entitled “United Voices of Peace, a celebration of the United Nations’ International Day of Peace” was sponsored by HUDSON and featured students of the GET LIT program.
+Madewell
Popular women’s fashion brand Madewell represented a “Blue Jeans Go Green” initiative, where guests were invited to recycle old pairs of denim in exchange for $20 toward a new pair.
+Michael Strahan Brand Launch
Former NFL defensive end Michael Strahan continues his foray into the fashion industry with a new collection of denim, which celebrated its launch at New York Denim Days. The collection was inspired by the direction of casual fashion in the industry, and the line features quality products at an affordable price.
+Nikki Lane and Friends
Musician and vintage purveyor Nikki Lane took to the stage on Sunday, Sept. 23 for an exclusive show for Denim Days attendees. Along with her own performance, Nikki curated a day of music to close out the second annual New York Denim Days, including Hugh Masterson and Eden Archer. Throughout the festival, Nikki could be found at a booth representing her Nashville vintage shop, High Class Hillbilly.
About Denim Days Festival
New York Denim Days and Nashville Denim Days are based on Amsterdam Denim Days. The new editions will act as a spotlight on the global denim scene from completely New York and Nashville perspectives by uniting the denim community and consumers, addicts and aficionados, and brands and buyers to celebrate their unique denim passion. New York Denim Days and Nashville Denim Days are initiated by House of Denim and organized by Modefabriek in collaboration with Kingpins Show and the fashion recruitment & consultancy HTNK. www.denim-days.com
Represented by Hong Kong Trade Development Council.
The Hong Kong Young Fashion Designers’ Contest 2018 came to a spectacular close on 8September, in a celebration of youthful talent, diversity and alternative visions.
Led by VIP judge designer Martine Rose, who flew in from the UK for the event, the panel of judges – comprised of renowned industry personalities – had a difficult decision to make, given the level of talent on display. Out of 16 finalists, four winners were eventually chosen to receive five awards, but the experience itself was rewarding for all.
The finalists presented drastically different aesthetics and design visions, with youthful fearlessness the only common thread. There were plenty of experimentations on fabrics, deconstructive cutting and sewing and knitting techniques, resulting in 16 collections difficult to typecast.
Champion: Leo Chan
Chan’s menswear collection aims to revive the spirit of the German movement ‘Wandervögel’, which embraces nature and freedom as an antidote to hectic city life.The black and green colour scheme reflects the great outdoors, nature and the unknown. His outerwear really stole the show, with stylish looks for day trips and excursions.
Chan’s focus on functional techwear led him to create a jacket that doubles as a one-man tent in his collection. The use of checkered flannel shirts for an outdoor ensemble is an unexpected stylish touch that adds to the versatility of the collection.
As champion, Chan won an internship with Martine Rose, an internationally renowned UK menswear brand.
At first glance it almost looks like Yip is making a political statement. But she is in fact exploring a different dilemma in her collection: Is science taking genetic modification too far? She mixes colours and shapes in a way that challenges the norm to make her point, resulting in pieces that have a bizarre, Frankenstein-like quality, such as a cape with a singular sleeve attached to a sweater designed to be worn upside down, and a knitted top held together with straps.
It is clear that she is trying to push the boundaries of knitwear. The fabrication, such as tubular jacquard with inlay stitch or embroidery, is inspired by human cells. The eye-popping palette of sharp neon–lime, marigold and poppy red–seem to send out warning signals.
Yip’s first runner-up prize includes a study trip abroad.
Second runner-up and Best Footwear Design Award: Charlotte Ng
Ng presents a visual simulation of UK rock band Radiohead’s song “Everything in its Right Place”. By converting the track into sound waves, she works the lines and curves into her womenswear collection.
The silky-smooth fabric “grooves” freely, punctuated by the sturdy, double-faced wool to symbolise bold electronic beats. Each piece has a meticulously clean finish, with techniques from laser cut to hand stitching denoting perfect precision.
Ng serves up the collection with the same sentiment as Radiohead’s decade-old song: “It is perfect, it is everything!”
She matches this British rock-inspired ensemble with a pair of pointy ankle leather boots that earned the Best Footwear Design Award, which enabled her to launch a commercial capsule collection with i.tapparels Ltd. As second runner-up, she has also won an internship with CLOT Company Ltd.
A spin-off of Nietzsche’s concept of “will to power”, Yeung’s menswear collection manifests this in the literal sense of “combat” with designs that simultaneously empower and protect. The result is a visually powerful collection in burgundy, white and grey.
Elements from different martial arts merge to create the ultimate combat gear, with jackets in oversized silhouettes – some with high necks pad and tie belts – referencing judo, fencing and boxing wear. The underarm panels in particular allow for great flexibility and movement. The designs are made more durable and robust with stone washing and waxing.
As recipient of the New Talent Award, Yeung will be developing a commercial collection in collaboration with JOYCE, which will be for sale at the renowned retailer.
FASHIONALLY Presentation and FASHIONALLY Collection #12
Represented by Hong Kong Trade Development Council.
Three FASHIONALLY Presentations were held during CENTRESTAGE to offer guests first look at the latest collections by three up-and-coming designer labels, and their full-fledged visions.
Rather than a traditional runway, the presentations took place on a set, giving the designers the freedom to create a story that best served their collections. Guests were treated to an intimate look at the designs, enabling them to take in the choice of fabrics and workmanship at close range.
Tak Lee: A showcase of deconstruction
Tak Lee believes in the connection between form and construction and explores innovative sewing and craft techniques through his eponymous label. Using mainly natural fibres, his first collection “Season I” is an expression of clothing as an artistic embodiment of human sensation and history.
Inspired by an architect’s work on war-torn buildings, he uses draping and deconstruction to create unusual items with radical shapes. The neutral colour palette reflects the use of organic dyes such as teas and herbs.
Against a simple set that alluded to abandoned architecture, Lee presented a collection that brimming with conceptual flair and technique. Each item is meticulously cut to defy expectation, with numerous mix and match possibilities.
REDEMPTIVE by Wilson Choi: Socially conscious rebels
REDEMPTIVE, a new menswear label by Wilson Choi making its debut at FASHIONALLY, carries the DNA of a rebellious younger generation. Choi sees fashion as a way of thinking and uses his design to reflect on social issues he cares about.
Titled “The Stolen Soul”, REDEMPTIVE’s SS 2019 collection is inspired by the movie “Ondskan”, which tells a harrowing story of bullying and loneliness in a Swedish private school in the 1950s.
The presentation was set in a ransacked locker room, the disarray and bruised faces of the models telling a story of restlessness and rebellion. It was a versatile first collection that combines preppiness conveyed by classic stripes and checks, and outerwear that highlights the designer’s interest in high-tech, functional fabrics.
Launched by Lilian Tsang and Matt Hui in 2017, YLYstudio gives the tradition crafts of knitwear and embroidery a modern facelift and new place in contemporary fashion.
The presentation featured the label’s second collection, Project B, which utilises French embroidery with metallic sequins to form distinctive shapes inspired by Baroque curves, while sheer tunics, jackets and skirts create rich layering. The candy-coloured palette is juxtaposed with metallic details and loose-fitting menswear styling to offer an interesting take on boyish girliness.
Models posing and taking selfies on the transparent sofa by the ball pond made for some interesting and delightful visuals.
The presentation illustrated that the young label is on the right track: keeping the traditions of embroidery, hand knitting and craftsmanship alive, but always with a contemporary point of view.
Apart from the three presentations, ten of Hong Kong’s emerging designers came together to present their Spring/Summer 2019 collections at the FASHIONALLY Collection #12 at CENTRESTAGE in early September. They proposed a multitude of looks for next season ranging from avant-garde and sporty to feminine and sexy, all the while injecting a fresh spin on perennial summer trends including florals, denim and transparency.
Two of the strongest collections in the bunch came from London College of Fashion graduate Kevin Ho and former YDC winner Necro Poon. KEVIN HO’s pared down collection included tailored blazers, waistcoats and trousers, which were accented by soft ruffles, folds of fabric or asymmetric hemlines. A stark white cocktail dress became a statement piece with its colourful rose embellishments.
KEVIN HO
In contrast, NECRO POON experimented with a more casual sporty look that centred around streetwear favourites such as sweatshirts – they were emblazoned with Roy Lichtenstein-style prints – and lightly-coloured denim. Instead of the typical cropped denim jacket he offered a much cooler duster-style coat with frayed edges and a risqué floor-length shirt dress with thigh-high slits up the sides.
NECRO POON
Prints were also a running theme. 112 mountainyam designer Mountain Yam contrasted a stark barbed wire print with a colourful graphic design that depicted birds and other motifs inspired by the natural world. The final look consisted of a skirt and T-shirt with the word “dream,” both trimmed in rainbow feathers.
112 mountainyam
Blind by JW designers Walter Kong and Jessica Lau said that their prints were inspired by popular icons found in local culture. On the catwalk they looked faded or textured, adding an artistic touch to the collection. The printed halter tops and off the shoulder dress ticked all the right boxes, although at times the proportions seemed overwhelming.
Blind by JW
On the topic of dresses – there will be plenty to choose from next season. CAR|2IE designer Carrie Kwok’slayered frocks came in shades of pink and purple, but looked complicated to wear. The oversized sheer nude dress with oversized ruffled sleeves was more appealing. Underneath the model wore a sexy nude slip dress for a cool yet confident look.
CAR2IE
With her background in couture, one would presume that Yannes Wong of Lapeewee would go all out with her eveningwear. Her vision of formalwear for women, however, was contemporary. A little black dress was updated with a panel of pleated navy fabric at the front, while a cocktail dress was re-envisaged in dark denim with a pleated skirt and sheer shoulder straps. Not a dress lover? No problem. She also proposed wide legged trousers that could double as a skirt and tailored pinstriped jackets.
Lapeewee
Shirley Wong also sent out some stellar evening looks under her brand, FromClothingOf. She referenced men’s wear, specifically from the turn of the 20th century, which she reworked into statement dresses that were both romantic and modern. A simple men’s waist coast formed the basis of many fantastic looks including a belted top and origami skirt combo and a sleeveless dress with asymmetric folds at the sides, layered on top of a sheer black blouse.
FromClothingOf
While most of the designers showed women’s wear, DEMO. designer Derek Chan took us to Paris for his men’s only collection. The berets and neckerchiefs may have added French flair but the clothes were wearable and included oversized trench coats, striped separates and shirts decorated with scripted handwriting (perhaps taken from French love letters?).
DEMO
The French weren’t the only culture referenced in the show. Designers Yeung Chin and Jane Ng from phenotypsetter embraced a more conceptual approach, as pioneered by Japanese designers. Ng’s collection, aptly titled “Shatters and Layers,” experimented with looks consisting multiple of layers of colours, prints and even textures. One of the best was the white T-shirt covered with strips of red fabric paired with the red and white tulle skirt layered under crumpled plastic.
phenotypsetter
While Ng’s designs were playful, YEUNG CHIN opted for more edgy separates including long tops, parachute skirts and ruched dresses accented with ribbon ties and strips of fabrics that bring to mind technical gear. Gold and silver jackets and skirts added a futuristic touch.
Chiara and Valentina Ferragni Special Guests of the Edgy Romance Cocktail Party where has been launched the first Fragiacomo capsule collection available in cryptocurrency and designed by Alessio Spinelli, the creative Director chosen and wanted by the President Federico Pozzi Chiesa.
A cocktail party attracted over a thousand of people what Fragiacomo held on September 21st in Via Turai 8 with – as special guests – Chiara and Valentina Ferragni. To welcome them, the CEO of the maison Federico Pozzi Chiesa, who presented an important novelty in front of the numerous public: the first capsule collection designed by Alessio Spinelli, immediately available on social media and in cryptocurrency.
A preview in which the Roman designer hints at the elements that characterise all his work: he dramatises classical forms and raises the seductive tones thanks to a combination of contrasts that lead to a new lexicon in which refined elegance always and exclusively triumphs. A capsule collection strongly backed by the house, which will have the bonus of being immediately available through social media channels and in cryptocurrency. Fragiacomo is actually the first luxury fashion house to make use of this technology. Cryptocurrencies – the most futuristic means of exchange to emerge in recent years, whose global value peaked at $900 billion – can in fact be used to make payments on the Rockerchain luxury e-commerce platform where the collection can be found.
An important project that reveals the foresight of the fashion house – among the first in the world to use this technology – which has been able to translate its historic footwear tradition into contemporary trends, without ever losing sight of its roots and always offering a smarter shopping experience.
Fragiacomo was founded in 1956 based on the creativity and intuition of Dante Fragiacomo, who combined all of his expertise with Made in Italy quality to create a footwear, leather goods and luxury accessories brand. In 2010 the brand was bought by Federico Pozzi Chiesa and his brother Massimo. The goal was an international relaunch, supported by a targeted strategy and constant oversight of the products and style by Federico Pozzi Chiesa, president and CEO of the company, and Massimo Pozzi Chiesa, Member of the board. Thanks to the new direction, in 2013 the first flagship store opened in Milan, a 120-square-meter space at Via Turati 8, designed by the the architect and designer Sergio Calatroni. Two years later, in July, a second boutique opened in Rome at Via Delle Carrozze 31, followed by the inauguration of the showroom at Via Montenapoleone 19. Fragiacomo is also establishing itself in the Middle East, with the next flagship store to be opened in Tehran; there are plans for future expansion in Europe. Over the years the brand has established several collaborations, such as the one with the René Caovilla fashion house in the 1980s, all the way up to the present day, where the design of the collections is entrusted to Alessio Spinelli.
Daizy Shely presented a collection heavy on the lights. From bright pink, to ultra-feminine lilac, sky blue and white, Shely defines what a fresh spring/summer collection’s color palette should be.
The collection introduced a retro-1970s, Studio 54-meets-modern-day-sportswear vibe, with contrasting silhouettes that complemented each other. A slinky dress was followed by a two-piece crop and bell-bottomed pant.
The highlight here is the body, and the clothes often served as a second skin in sensual cuts.
The details are what complete the characters Shely brings to life. She is invincible and bold, styled with oversized orchard and anthurium flowers worn at the neck and brightly colored bracelets. Whether it be sexy sequins, crystal and beaded embroideries or spunky, outlandish, psychedelic prints such as watermelons pierced by swords, it is clear that the Daisy Shely woman is definitely meant to stand out in the crowd.
After his FW2018 collection which was showcased in New York, Malan Breton returned to the global stage, that is London Fashion Week, with his SS19 collection “Show Girl”.
His late theatrical collection was an ode to the glamour wear and power dressing.
This time, he was inspired by the Ziegfeld Follies and tales of his grandmother’s days as a showgirl and opera singer, Malan Breton’s new work highlights the glamor of traditional showbiz. The Ziegfeld Follies was a series of elaborate theatrical revue productions on Broadway from 1907 to 1931.
It all started with a perfect tailored, yellow metallic tuxedo with feathers on the sleeves. Bold trench coats with big bows, sequined maxi and leather corset dresses, feathers, rails of tulle, hand-beading and embroidery followed. The woman that Breton had on his mind while making this collection, has to be shown and she has to be seen.
A subtle revival of bold tailoring brings seventies influence to bear on Breton’s menswear. Charming prints in hues of blue and powder pink twinkle with unapologetic metallics. Malan’s Taiwanese origin stands as the collection’s foundation stitching East to West with powerful embossed brocade.
We loved his fresh approach to couture fashion. Proving once more that he is one of the greatest showmen, Malan Breton marries personal performative history to the sharp lines and tailored specificity of his designs.
I met Cassey Gan’s fashion through the Not Just A Label platform, and even though it is claimed that she is the “black sheep” of the contemporary fashion, I like the colour black and I definitely like Cassey’s work.
This collection was no exception.
So, on the second day of London Fashion Week, I attended the Gan’s show at the Fashion Scout. Although I very much like the prestige of Freemasons Hall, I think that would be many other better options, more suitable for the label to present the SS19 collection. Nevertheless, the Malaysian label celebrated individuality with clothes that are unique, heavy printed and unpredictable.
In an ongoing dialogue with the art world, the new collection was inspired by David Hockney — a pioneer of the British art movement through his vibrant and intimate portraits. Cassey Gan’s silhouettes are constructed with flowing structure and oversized shape.
The offbeat style is continued through the collection with print blocking which meticulously meld together like a puzzle with considered elements including detachable layers. Every piece in the collection can be paired with one another — a pallet of staple pieces creating a functional, relaxed and flamboyant wardrobe.
Cassey Gan’s innate experimental nature is evident in this season’s printing on different weights of cotton derived from Thailand. Cassey states ‘“Change is the only constant” Seasons, life and everything around us change all the time. As a result, we have to adapt and change accordingly. Bringing this into our designs, it is important for us to constantly evolve and constantly explore different techniques and materials to create something fresh every season. Innovation is key.”
Being innovative is one thing that makes a good designer, and another one is to be different and qualified. Cassey has all three, but there is something more about her. As she once stated: “[..]Coming from the far east and living in the west have resulted in my work being influenced by the juxtaposition of both.[..]”.
The music, the cinema, the stars; Brigitte Bardot, Diana Ross, David Bowie, the cities and the suburbs, the clubs, the poets, the pop-art, the underground but above all, the freedom and the expectation of change.
Aesthetically, glamour and luxury, have always been at the heart of JIRI KALFAR. The SS19 collection, filled with revisited 70’s silhouettes, glamorous dresses, trousers, skirts and tops made from sequins, silk, embroidery, hand woven wool, viscose and more, is no exception.
Though inspiration comes from the past, the main focus during the process was the future of our planet and its ecology. For this reason the brand has concentrated on zero waste patterns, recycled sequins and upcycled clothing.
Each piece has been handmade in the Czech Republic without the use of any fur or leather, by a team of seamstresses.
Combining new technological and sustainable materials such as muskin (mushroom leather) with hand-embroidery ensures that you can wear luxury, animal cruelty free, zero waste, fashion.
Because the real luxury nowadays is consciousness.
NEW THIS SEASON
Jiri Kalfar by Oldrich Voyta
For the first time JIRI KALFAR will introduce a new line of eco-friendly and sustainable (made of corn and wood), leather-free shoes. In collaboration with Czech designer Oldrich Voyta the shoes have been produced using 3D printers and a combination of semi-couture top layers.
