KarlieKloss and Diane von Fürstenberg: “Double O” Stylish.
DVF and Karlie Kloss Release DVF: Secret Agent
by Chris Collie, New York Editor
Consider this a love letter of sorts. A warm breeze on a summer day. The smell of cookies baking. Good times with friends and family. These are the feelings that Karlie Kloss and Diane von Furstenberg summon up.
They’re special in that way. There’s a warmth and a love that radiates from them; a down-to-earthness that makes the fashion business a little brighter and better for their presence.
The smell of cookies baking.
Ego has no place in their combined universe — their energy is spent on an effusion of good vibes directed toward others — and that makes their world a very special place to live.
So, needless to say, we were very excited to hear about the new Fall 2015 Collection campaign, featuring a short film by Polish-born photographer Peter Lindbergh, called DVF: Secret Agent.
Needless to say, we were pretty excited to hear about DVF: Secret Agent.
According to Diane von Fürstenberg: “The DVF Secret Agent bag, and the character Karlie plays, are really metaphors for the DVF woman. She is a businesswoman, a mother, a lover, a friend. She is always on-the-go. Now we have created the ultimate accomplice for every facet of the life she lives fully.”
She is a businesswoman, a mother, a lover, a friend.
The multi-dimensional quality of the bag is aptly reflected in the choice of Karlie Kloss as model, who’s known for bringing sizzle, sexuality and Swan Lake-intensity to her runway and editorial appearances, even as she’s known for creating baked goods for charity and supporting young women in learning to code.
The multi-dimensional quality of the bag is aptly reflected in the choice of Karlie Kloss as model.
Back in 1972, the young Austrian Princess von Furstenberg poses in a traditional dirndl at Hubertushof in Austria.
And it goes without saying that Diane von Furstenberg, herself, has led an über-multi-faceted life, which has included life as an Austrian princess, Studio 54 attendee, friend to Andy Warhol, creator of the wrap dress — most importantly, as she’s known to say — wife and mother.
But beyond the shape-shifting and role-playing, the video exhibits another hallmark of both the DVF and Karlie Kloss “brands.” It’s playful, fun, and doesn’t take itself too seriously.
“Effortless, sexy and on-the-go, [the DVF woman, as portrayed by Karlie Kloss] transitions seamlessly from day to night with the help of a handsome accomplice, her multi-faceted DVF Secret Agent bag, and a series of standout looks from the Fall 2015 Seduction collection.”
Interview with Ensar Oud: The Man Who Brought Oud to the West
photo from theolfactive.com
Possibly all geniuses are obsessives. “Obsessive. Opinionated. Poetic.” These are just a few words that would fall short of describing the breathtaking devotion of Ensar Oud to his craft.
(Please note: We’re reprinting this interview from 2011 as a complement to our interview with one of our favorite master perfumers, Kilian Hennessy. And for yet another obsessive artisan — of a very different variety — see our interview with the irascible Brent Black.)
“Oud Royale” – $6,999 (3 ml.) No longer available.
In the beautiful case of Ensar, the obsession is oud oil, a substance distilled from agarwood. Agarwood is a dark aromatic resin that forms on evergreen trees in Southeast Asia. It’s also endangered, one of the complex scents on earth, and — not surprisingly, as a result — one of the most expensive materials in the world.
Oud is one of the complex scents on earth.
Oud’s cultural and religious significance stretches back time immemorial: it appears in the Vedas, the works of Wa Zhen of the Eastern Wu Dynasty, and the Sahih Muslim.
A number of modern fragrances attempt to synthesize some of the notes of oud; and some of these, I confess, I like. But nothing prepares you for the complexities of the real thing, which can contain notes of everything from peanut butter to mint, to animal, all in the same whiff.
In the end, your nose will educate you profoundly. In the end, it really depends on the purity of your own understanding and heart. — Ensar Oud
Among purveyors of Agarwood, Ensar Oud stands at the forefront, with one of the most storied histories, hands-on productions and the most expensive collection for sale (with 29-year-old “Oud Royale” at the pinnacle for $6,999).*
His surprisingly personal and honest blog details his journeys: India, Burma, Borneo, Malaysia, Brunei, Cambodia and beyond. The funny thing is how much it really reads like a spiritual quest.
Q: How long have you been in the oud “business” (or maybe it’s more of a calling)? How did you get started in scent in general, and oud in particular? How has it been catching on in the West?
I contracted my oud craving back when I started attending the mystical gatherings of the Sufis. They’d always have these little stalls at the “bazaar” section, where all sorts of Sufi goods would be on offer, among them little greasy vials of oil called “oud.” Most of them nameless oils obtained from nameless sources. But the scent had its appeal.
I contracted my oud craving back when I started attending the mystical gatherings of the Sufis
Being somewhat of a snob by nature who could never be pleased with anything but the finest quality in all things, I started looking for higher and higher quality oils. The quest, needless to say, was extremely difficult.
Believe it or not, as recently as 2004 there was almost no awareness of oud in the West. Far from the fad it has now become, most folks did not even know oud existed. I packed my bags and started looking around the Gulf, initially, for the “perfume of the sultans and rulers of the Eastern lands”.
Believe it or not, as recently as 2004 there was almost no awareness of oud in the West.
This led nowhere, and all I ended up with was a collection of DOP-laced oils similar to the offerings of the major oud companies from the Gulf: Arabian Oud, Abdul Samad al Qurashi, Al Haramain, etc. These companies openly mix their oils. I’ve visited their factories in the UAE, met the staff, the chemists, and the “artisans” as some rookie internet entrepreneurs like to call them. There was nothing artisanal about it is all I can say, and I was grossly disappointed.
Heading to Amman to live by my Sheikh in early 2005, the Sheikh ordered me to travel to the Far East in quest of oud. “I want you to bring me back the finest oud oils in the world,” the Sheikh ordered me. The story is re-told in my blog.
in early 2005, the Sheikh ordered me to travel to the Far East in quest of oud. “I want you to bring me back the finest oud oils in the world.”
With his blessing, and by the grace of God, we were able to fool certain Quixotic souls into the profitless venture of distilling artisanal oud oil for us. Not caring about the costs, the potential major losses if the distillations went bad, we soon ended up with oils that are to this date referred to as Oud Legends by fellow distillers, collectors, entrepreneurs, what have you: Kyara LTD, Borneo 3000, Royal Kinam, Borneo 4000. And the list went on.
How has it been catching on in the West? That is a funny question. And I crack up as I say this, because now everyone, including previous customers of Ensar Oud, have launched their own website, with their own “Beginner’s Guide,” “Starter’s Guide,” “Oud Guide,” Oud Regions, Origins, what have you; and everything else as we had it arranged on our old site.
Everyone now distills oils worthy of the title Oud Royale [an extremely famous Ensar Oud Legend]; and recently someone even juiced an “LTD” oil. No doubt, everyone is now a purveyor of “the highest quality oud oils in the world” in his own right.
I recall a poem by W.B. Yeats titled “To A Poet, Who Would Have Me Praise Certain Bad Poets, Imitators Of His And Mine.” It goes something like this:
You say, as I have often given tongue In praise of what another’s said or sung, ‘Twere politic to do the like by these; But was there ever dog that praised his fleas?
So in short, oud’s been catching on, that’s for sure. Needless to say, what money-driven exploits do is water down the meaning of the word “oud” in the West as it was watered down long ago in the East, where it no longer stands for the pure essential oil of the Aquilaria tree but for a mere scent family. “Oud” scented tissue papers are readily available in the supermarkets of Amman.
“Oud” scented tissue papers are readily available in the supermarkets of Amman.
Ever smelled “musk” hand lotion at your local pharmacy? How much genuine deer musk would you guess is in there? Well … that’s how much oud is in most “oud” fragrances being mass-marketed at present.
Q: You’ve been all over the world in search of oud. What drives you? What has been your most memorable experience?
This oil has a soul. It has the power to transcend the senses and put you in touch with a higher reality most people seldom get to experience, entrapped as they are in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Some meditate. Others do yoga. Others do drugs. Others dance. Yet others wear Oud Nuh. The spiritual pull is something very palpable and unmistakable in our oils.
This oil has a soul. It has the power to transcend the senses and put you in touch with a higher reality.
I’ve always wanted to go to Laos, and produce the foulest, most fecal specimens of oud the world has ever smelled. For some reason, I’ve never made it. While the appeal of “oud” has caught on in the West, the appeal of the “fecal” varieties of Assam and other types of Indo-Chinese oils has yet to develop.
Q: The search of oud seems like a developed intuition. What kind of climate is ideal? How do you know when you’re on the right track?
The extremely moist, tropical climates of Assam, Indochina and Indonesia are ideal for producing oud. While almost all over Indochina wild oud has been harvested to extinction, there are certain areas of Assam, Borneo and Papua that still produce wild agarwood. I have absolutely no interest in the cultivated varieties of agarwood. I’ve always meant to write an article to explain the differences, just never got to it.
Q: Very generally speaking, how do ouds differ from region to region?
The same way teas differ from climate to climate, so do ouds.
Each climate is unique, each soil has a different mineral content, the water used to treat the wood differs in each jungle; these are all factors that contribute to the different aromas of oud oils. Most importantly though, different species of oud trees grow in different jungles. This is the most significant factor that dictates the differences between each region’s juice.
Different species of oud trees grow in different jungles.
Q: You work hands-on with numerous distillers, and you have a reputation for being stringent and exacting. What sorts of things do you require from your distillers that are usually neglected?
For one, I demand that incense quality oud be used in the distillation of the oils. This will automatically disqualify most distillers. Many have even thought I was playing a practical joke when I presented this demand to them.
Secondly, I don’t want the oil to be “pasteurized and homogenized” as it is for distribution to the Gulf market and other Internet retailers. I want each batch to be labelled individually so I can study the different factors that went into the distillation and see the impact they carry on the resulting oil. Another distiller got into a mix-up with his brother when he tried to implement this for my sake. Now, thankfully, we have our own still in each distillery, and our oils are distilled separately from other suppliers’.
Q: It’s been said that one way to get in touch with the spiritual is through the senses. Although the senses are usually thought of as a “lower” faculty, in a way they can be said to be closer to the holy or spiritual because they are untainted by the vagaries of our mind, and a direct connection to the world as created by the Creator. Perhaps, as a sincere appreciation of the world as it is, they can be said to be an expression of gratitude, and thus a kind of prayer. Do you believe this? Or perhaps, what do you see as the connection between the olfactory and the spiritual?
With heart and soul, yes, that is exactly what I believe! You have summarized the spiritual journey most eloquently in your question, my friend. In our spiritual tradition, fragrance is perhaps the only material thing that carries a significance so great wearing it is considered an act of worship.
In our spiritual tradition, fragrance is perhaps the only material thing that carries a significance so great wearing it is considered an act of worship.
The Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings be upon him) used to say, “Beloved to me from your world are women and perfume, and the coolness of my eyes is in prayer.” If you study that statement closely, you’ll quickly realize the only material “thing” he really loved from the world was perfume. Women are people, one’s spiritual as well as physical partners and companions. And the prayer is an action, not a material “thing.” So perfume was the only worldly possession that the most spiritual of men was fond of. That says a lot.
Perfume was the only worldly possession that the most spiritual of men was fond of.
Fragrant greetings to you Pablo. Please do keep in touch.
##
(*Note: Most products from the original interview are no longer available. And the state of oud, as predicted by Ensar, has changed considerably as well. For current products and information updates, please visit EnsarOud.com.)
Wayin: A Cutting-Edge Accessory for Fashion-Forward Brands
These days, social media touches every aspect of our online experience. But as user-friendly as the front-end of sites such as Twitter, Instagram and Facebook has become (or tried to), the analytical side has traditionally left much to be desired. Until now.
Wayin has helped clients from Nike to Teen Vogue to track and create real-time experiences for their social media followings. “Visualizations” allow companies to track real-time trends in social media in ways that are user-friendly, even fun, for statistical analysis and interaction with core customers.
Wayin helps clients track real-time trends in social media in ways that are user-friendly, even fun
We like it so much, we’ve been using it this fashion week to give our readers a taste of what’s happening, from street style to notifications about real-time runway live streams.
It’s almost eerily simple to use.
For example, a short code snippet produces this “Collage” visualization:
(The above is an interactive, real-time example.)
And if you want to see how other fashion outlets are using it, take a look at this recent contest created for Teen Vogue:
Wayin campaign with Teen Vogue
But the metrics go further than accumulations of pictures from Instagram, Facebook and Twitter. The interface allows you to find out where buzz is being generated, and display it as a “Heat Map” visualization to team-members, or your readers, for a fun overview.
Your readers can point at different parts of the world to see where — and what — the buzz is happening. In the real-time example below, we’re curious to know which fashion week is most popular where, based on hashtag usage.
The colors of the map below will actually change as we pass through each fashion week, with different concentrations as different times.
The colors of the map below will actually change as we pass through each fashion week.
(The above is an interactive, real-time example.)
What about polls and contests? Are people more excited about Paris and New York fashion week, for example? Why not have them vote, with a “Tilt” visualization?
They can vote, with a “Tilt” visualization.
(This is an interactive, real-time example.)
Why not create a contest centered around your visitors’ (or customers’) social media interaction with you? The possibilities are vast, and you explore even more visualization here.
But what is Wayin, and how did it come about?
Co-founded by Scott McNealy, the former Sun Microsystems CEO and co-founder, Wayin is led by key Sun Microsystems alumni, as well as top digital and media industry veterans.
“It’s thrilling to see how Fashion Week is using the power of social display to maximize exposure of this week’s shows,” said Jordan Slabaugh, VP of Marketing, Wayin. “What was once an exclusive event for fashion’s most elite is now an engaging experience that fashion lovers everywhere can take part in. With a real-time look at the hottest trends and designers, a whole new circle of consumers can get a front row seat and instantly share in the excitement.”
It’s thrilling to see how Fashion Week is using the power of social display to maximize exposure of this week’s shows.
Wayin is based in Denver with offices in New York, San Francisco, Los Angeles, Atlanta, Japan, Brazil and Hong Kong.
For more information, to go wayin.com, and follow them @wayin.
Nestled between Noho/Soho is a beautifully decorated boutique that mixes modern luxury with contemporary chic.
Curve boutique encompasses a true melting pot of glam, statement piece, casual chic and RTW designed for the modern woman who loves to diversify her style while remaining ever true to fashionable self expression.
Already a mainstay in Los Angeles, Malibu, New York, San Francisco and Miami, Curve boutique introduces their new exclusive collaboration with designer Lyz Olko, known for her Obesity + Speed collection.
Curve boutique introduces their new exclusive collaboration with designer Lyz Olko, known for her Obesity + Speed collection.
Entering the posh boutique filled with mirrors, metal and chic architecture, my eyes are drawn to three well-merchandised mannequins showcasing the new Lyz Olko collection. First, a rustic denim-on-denim ensemble with a graphic tee to finish off the look. Next, a cotton candy, pink-colored graphic tee paired with a velvet flower-print, front-zipper skirt. And finally, a beautiful blazer in the same flower print, outlined with deep black lapels paired with a rich black graphic tee and deep-blue distressed jeans.
While perusing the collection, I had a chance to speak with the owner of Curve boutique, Nevena Borissova regarding the collaboration with Lyz, and the feel of the collection.
I had a chance to speak with the owner of Curve boutique, Nevena Borissova.
Nevena took me through the collection and explained how it involved redone distressed denim, an infusion of army-green button-down shirts and jackets, and the use of tattoo-like pins placed strategically on pieces. Other parts of the collection included sweatshirts showcasing distressed sleeves and powerful quotes centered as the eye-catcher.
The collection is aptly titled “Back to the Land.” Nevena went on to discuss how Lyz Olko’s collection would be merchandised with the other high-profile collections such as Balmain, Nina Ricci and Alexander McQueen.
The collection is aptly titled “Back to the Land.”
Shop the new Lyz Olko collection exclusively at Curve boutique, located in the heart of Noho/Soho in Manhattan, New York.
But we recommend hurrying. From the looks of the launch — and the eager crowd that filled the store — the Lyz Olko collection may not be in stock for long.
July 13, 2016 9:00 am, Monday morning — the first day of New York Fashion Week Men’s — and I’m ready to embark on my first ever “men’s fashion week.”
Having covered and attended many New York Fashion Week: Women’s shows in the past (the shows referred to as “MB Fashion Week New York” until very recently), it was only right that my first experience of any “men’s fashion week” would begin here in New York. (Such menswear shows already existing in London, Milan and Paris.)
However, on Day 1, the feeling I have isn’t the same. I feel uncertainty — the nervousness of being a newbie within this sector of fashion. But I’m still excited to start my “freshman year” of covering and observing New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The feeling I usually experience on Day 1 isn’t the same.
Day 1
First Stop:
Industria Studios for NYMD presented by Cadillac
As I approach the entrance of Industria Studios — and the crowd of attendees gathering in front — excitement quickly overtakes my nervousness.
It’s the anticipation of viewing new collections before they enter the stores and are available for public consumption. This first day is all “presentations,” which I sometimes prefer. Presentations differ from runway shows in a few aspects: no seats; no runways; no models using their best walk to show how the garments move while being worn.
It’s the anticipation of viewing new collections before they enter the stores.
But the benefits of a presentation include the ability to be up close and personal with the fabric and garments for observation, feeling the quality of the craftsmanship and rich colors used in bold statements of style. They also allow for great pictures of the pieces, having time to set your shot and capture the angle you want.
Presentations differ from runway shows in a few aspects.
The morning presentations were as follows:
CADET
Cadet definitely paid tribute to the U.S. Army
by debuting their S/S16 collection with an assortment of paratrooper looks in tank tops, trench jackets (short), vests and shorts, making use of natural color tones such as rustic blue, olive green, concrete gray and tan.
I loved watching Steven Kolb, president of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) go through each selection and really observe the work. It showed he still cared about the new collections being presented, and his eye is not yet jaded by viewing tons of collections prior to New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
I loved watching Steven Kolb go through each selection.
BOYSWEAR
Boyswear’s spring/summer 2016 collection was titled “The Manson Family Singers”
and “colorful” would be an understatement. Though I did like the play on colors and some great prints overall, it took on a very California vibe, which I am sure will resonate internationally. However, I can see taking pieces from other collections in your ensemble and adding a great splash of color with the Boyswear SS16 collection.
I can see adding a great splash of color with the Boyswear SS16 collection.
CWST
CWST’s presentation included blue, black, and gray tones.
Linen blazers, tank tops, loosely woven shirts and a variety of tops were featured. However, the hit of the presentation for me was what the two designers described as “future seersucker”: a new way for a suit to be worn for the casual chic in all of us
The hit of the presentation was “future seersucker.”
GARCIAVELEZ
GarciaVelez, having worked at such famed design houses as Alexander McQueen,
brought us the “Lucent Stasis” collection, which included inspiration from exploring the ideas of reflecting, concealing, diffusing and capturing the qualities of light. “I wanted to experiment with how to suspend the temporal quality of light within the garment,” said designer Carlos Garciavelez. “The challenge for me was to capture a finite quality of an incandescent source, and how that relates to the human body.” The collection utilized the fluorescent blue lights within the background, giving way to beautiful, sophisticated casual chic wear.
I wanted to experiment with how to suspend the temporal quality of light within the garment
David Hart
This collection literally needed to be viewed in person to truly appreciate the geometric prints
and pastel colors inspired by the Bauhaus textiles of Annie Albers and Gunta Stolz. Styled to perfection and perfectly constructed, this was last on the tour of five presentations but definitely not least.
… geometric prints and pastel colors inspired by Bauhaus textiles …
Day 2
Public School
Public School NYC have been on fire racking up awards
for their men’s and women’s collections. After taking over as creative directors of Donna Karan International, it was solidified that Maxwell and Dao are the true “it” guys in fashion. Their collection for the NYFW Men’s SS16 was criminally creative, minimalist, with a swagger attached that only Max and Dao can deliver. Always a pleasure to view the growth of a future household name in fashion.
… criminally creative, minimalist, with a swagger …
Calvin Klein
Calvin Klein Collection’s Menswear Spring/Summer show
truly lived up to the name the name of a “spring / summer” show. From the tonal shirts and matching suits — representations of summer waves and palm trees — on laminated jerseys and sheer sweaters, this was summer in motion, expressed through a collection. Some of my close colleagues have accused me of favoring Calvin Klein due to us growing up in close neighborhoods. However, for this show no favoritism was needed. Truly a work of art.
Some of my close colleagues have accused me of favoring Calvin Klein …
Day 3
Michael Kors
Who better to motivate the fashion community collectively to rise early for Day 3 than Michael Kors.
The collection was described as “island life,” which included seersucker suits (prepare for a major comeback next spring / summer), double-breasted two-piece suits and casual knits. And to complete the look, each model wore athletic-style sandals.
Prepare for a seersucker comeback next spring / summer.
(Editorial Note: At the risk of this coverage turning into a 16 chapter book, I will highlight some of our favorite moments of the next day and a half. Feel free to explore the collections further if you happen to see an outfit we have highlighted that may fit your style.)
Story by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
One of the nation’s most in-demand underground fashion designers in New York, Christian Benner is one-of-a-kind. Well,
“underground” may not be the best word for someone who has outfitted the likes of Kate Moss, Lady Gaga and Bruno Mars with his custom leather jackets and vintage-distressed t-shirts with an iconic, rock n’ roll feel.
The famed designer whose work has been seen in the pages of Italian Vogue, Rolling Stone, W Magazine, Interview and countless others, granted us a rare interview to learn more behind the genius of his creations.
Supermodel Kate Moss in vintage Christian Benner jacket
Q:What was your inspiration for starting a collection?
I’ve been working in the fashion industry for years, and want to get away from the cookie-cutter pieces you see everywhere. My collection gives people the chance to express their individuality.
My collection gives people the chance to express their individuality.
Q:What would you say is your style aesthetic?
Rock and roll mixed with my personal form of art.
Q:If you could collaborate with any designer, past or present day, who would it be, and why?
Firstly, Jackson Pollock because he never really planned any of his art. He used the canvas to express what was going on in his head, which is my approach when making jackets. I also would have liked to collaborate with Steven Sprouse because he treated clothes with the same aesthetic that I do by retreating vintage pieces and adding his own flare.
Jackson Pollock used the canvas to express what was going on in his head.
Q:Of all the pieces you’ve created, what has been your favorite, that always stands out in your mind?
My Jackson Pollock jacket. I’m really inspired by Jackson Pollack at the moment, and treated the jacket as my own canvas by splattering paint all over it.
Q:Do you see fashion changing toward the consumer preferring more custom pieces; do you believe it’s an extended trend?
The consumer absolutely prefers custom pieces because the consumer feels special wearing something made for them. Most people are usually wearing the same or similar things, so when something is custom, it really stands out.
The consumer feels special wearing something made for them.
Q:Whom would you say is the ideal Christian Benner male or female?
Sid Vicious or Prince.
Q:What do you feel about Men’s Fashion Week finally being brought back to New York?
I feel it’s great. It will allow men to get out of their shell more and see / try different fashion trends.
Q:When was the moment you knew you were destined to be a mainstay in fashion?
I knew I wanted to stay in fashion when I finally got the chance to clear my head and realized that I wanted to create my art and share it with the public.
Q:Do you feel the new era of designers are good for the industry with their new collaboration collections, or is it hurting the individualism that fashion was known for?
Certain brands are staple brands and should keep doing what they are doing instead of trying to monetize and reach more clients through collaborations. New designers are what we need to introduce a new style. It can go both ways … if done right, it could be cool.
New designers are what we need to introduce a new style.
FWO
We want to thank Christian Benner for giving us the time to explore the mentality of such a unique and famed designer. During NY Fashion Week: Men’s, we couldn’t think of a better person to interview who captures creativity, individualism, and what menswear truly is about: a self-expression of one’s style through clothes worn as art.
Valentino’s show “Mirabilia Romae” is taking place in Rome this year, aimed at celebrating their new flagship store, and the house’s Roman heritage — an important source of inspiration for creative directors Maria Grazia and Pierpaolo.
They’re sharing this special moment with fans around the world, inviting them to be a part of the experience.
The Valentino Haute Couture “Mirabilia Romae” show will stream live on Thursday, July 9th at 1:30PM EST, in the player above.
Follow @MaisonValentino, and hashtag the show with #MirabiliaRomae!
Let’s face it: New York (well, to be fair, the entire world) could probably take a little menswear style advice from Italy.
While New York Fashion Week: Men’s is finally making its debut this summer, Italy’s passion for menswear has a long and storied history, including a Milan Mens’ Fashion Week (Milano Uomo), as well as the menswear event Pitti Uomo.
Italy’s passion for menswear has a long and storied history.
Gianni Fontana, aka The Style Buff, is a marketing and communications professional, passionate about clothing, menswear, and style. He’s also the principal of the Milan Style Academy, an Italian fashion school with more than 25 years in the business. He’s behind the family’s brand Fontana 1961, producing handmade ties and scarves, and Belloveso Milano for luxury leather goods.
Almost incidentally, he’s one of the best-known and most photographed style icons in Italy.
Q: Tell us about the genesis of The Style Buff?
When I decided to start my first blog, several years ago, my intention was to represent menswear style and lifestyle from the Italian point of view. A kind of observer that selects and spreads. That’s why I’ve chosen the name The Style Buff. The word “buff” was originally applied to enthusiastic fire-watchers, because of the buff uniforms formerly worn by New York volunteer firemen. Now, of course, it’s used to define a person who is enthusiastically interested in — and very knowledgeable about — a particular subject.
The word “buff” come from the original uniforms of New York volunteer firemen.
Q: What does a typical day look like in the life of “The Style Buff?”
Milan offers a frenzied life. The city is at the crossroads of business, style and art. (As is Italy itself, actually.) Being Italian, I think we have that kind of “crossroads” attitude for aesthetics. Or perhaps it’s inherited from our long history.
In any case, the day flows according to the classic formula: work, leisure and rest. Traveling frequently is when this rule is broken.
Q: You’re well-known for the amazing hats you wear. Is there a specific designer you prefer? Is there another accessory you won’t leave home without?
Yes. It’s true. Actually, “Borsalino” is more than a brand name: it’s a type of wide-brimmed hat. I like SuperDuper hats, too. Accessories, in general, are half the outfit. After hat: shoes, ties, jewelry, pocket squares, etc.
Accessories, in general, are half the outfit. Hat, shoes, ties, jewelry, pocket squares.
Q:What are the most important factors for men when getting dressed?
If my answer seems vague here, but it’s because I do not like rules. Every man should be comfortable in his appearance, looking clean and not too noisy, in conformity with his circumstance. Less is better than more, if you are not confident. In Italian “sprezzatura” is our word for that sense of imperfect nonchalance: when you do not just select items, but you melt your personality into the stuff you wear or carry.
In Italian “sprezzatura” is our word for that sense of imperfect nonchalance.
Q:Name 3 – 5 items EVERY man should own.
A blue blazer, a tie, white pants, a good pair of shoes, a suit and a hat. Not enough, but just the base. I think we can dress well with just a few good pieces. Investing in quality is always a good choice. I own very old items, or buy pre-owned, and I’m proud of it. Everyone should select a vintage item for every outfit.
Everyone should select a vintage item for every outfit.
Q: Each region in Italy has its own sense of style. What sets Milan apart?
Milan is probably more international. In Italy there are well-known cities such as Rome, Florence, and Venice, but these are more visited more for tourism. Milan is the engine of the fashion business. It’s very multicultural, and for fashion, art and design, Milan has the right mix.
Q: Pitti Uomo and Moda Uomo begin mid-June. What sets them apart? And why are they important to the fashion industry?
I’m in love with Pitti. Pitti is an outstanding event that fits nicely into the classic series of international fashion weeks. Traditionally coming between London, Milano and Paris, it plays to a different beat, almost a variation on the theme of fashion that runway shows have accustomed us to.
La Piazzetta: this is the nickname for the courtyard outside the show’s central pavilion. Piazzetta means a small square: somewhere to meet up, for talking or playing. It’s also a favorite place for photographers where, in fact, the best photos are taken, that leave Florence and travel around the world in blogs and magazines.
People meet up in the Piazzetta, talk, compare, exchange ideas, and create new projects. It’s a mood that’s difficult to find in other circumstances linked to the world of fashion. A mood that personifies that feeling that modern social networks have reduced to an exclusively virtual experience. A mood that is worth feeling at least once.
It’s a mood that’s difficult to find in other parts of the world of fashion
Obviously both Pitti and Milano Uomo are important events for Italians, not only for the menswear market. They’re just separated by a thin border that gently divides the classic from the contemporary.
Q:What makes a “style icon” or “best-dressed” man?
Clothes are what we put on, but elegance is who we are, what we have inside. There’s no way to be elegant or well-dressed if you’re not a gentleman. It’s not a matter of money or brands.
There’s no way to be elegant or well-dressed if you’re not a gentleman. It’s not a matter of money
Being a “style icon” denotes a breakthrough: when you are the hub, and others look to you for reference. But you can’t decide to become it, you have to be it.
Q:Who are your top-5 “style icons,” past and present, and why?
Gianni Agnelli, 1979Except myself? Joking! Making charts is not my style, especially for the present. From the past, and among Italians, I will say Marcello Mastroianni and Gianni Agnelli.
Style icons: Marcello Mastroianni and Gianni Agnelli.
Q:Best / top-3 bespoke tailors in Milan?
Definitely A. Caraceni and Rubinacci. They have a long tradition that goes back generations. We also have to consider non-Milanese tailors coming to town for their clients, and some of them have their own ateliers in Milan, such as Sciamat, Dalcuore or SartoriaRipense.
Q:Do you have your eye on any up-and-coming menswear designers in Milan?
All throughout MFW there are so many young and talented designers. The Camera della Moda (Italian Fashion Organization) — and big brands as Giorgio Armani and Vogue — give big support to the emergent ones. One young designer I like is Christian Pellizzari.
Q: How would you describe the difference between American and Italian men’s fashion?
It’s difficult to explain in few words. Italian fashion has a very long and strong tradition. Italian designers set the rules for more than a century. Today the world is more connected; the market has to be considered as a whole entity. There are fewer boundaries than in the past. People travel more, and the Internet sets every culture closer.
American designers are appreciated in many countries. I will say that maybe the style between Americans and Italians is still different. But even this difference is getting thinner, year after year.
Italian designers set the rules for more than a century. Today American designers are appreciated in many countries.
Q: What trends do you foresee in the next year?
We’re still living an understatement period. The economy, globally, is not strong, and fashion is affected by this, too. So “back-to-basics, without excess.”
Q: What’s next for Gianni Fontana?
I’m working on several projects right now. For me it’s really important to face new challenges. My work is divided between consulting, teaching and design. There is no time to be bored!
Consider this a love letter of sorts. A warm breeze on a summer day. The smell of cookies baking. Good times with friends and family. These are the feelings that Karlie Kloss and Diane von Furstenberg summon up.
The focus of the campaign is the uber-customizable DVF Secret Agent handbag.
But beyond the shape-shifting and role-playing, the video exhibits another hallmark of both the DVF and Karlie Kloss “brands.” It’s playful, fun, and doesn’t take itself too seriously.
With his blessing, and by the grace of God, we were able to fool certain Quixotic souls into the profitless venture of distilling artisanal oud oil for us. Not caring about the costs, the potential major losses if the distillations went bad, we soon ended up with oils that are to this date referred to as 
Co-founded by Scott McNealy, the former Sun Microsystems CEO and co-founder, Wayin is led by key Sun Microsystems alumni, as well as top digital and media industry veterans.
Having covered and attended many New York Fashion Week: Women’s shows in the past (the shows referred to as “MB Fashion Week New York” until very recently), it was only right that my first experience of any “men’s fashion week” would begin here in New York. (Such menswear shows already existing in London, Milan and Paris.)
Certain brands are staple brands and should keep doing what they are doing instead of trying to monetize and reach more clients through collaborations. New designers are what we need to introduce a new style. It can go both ways … if done right, it could be cool.
