New York Fashion Week: Men’s Recap
Story by Chris Collie, New York Editor
July 13, 2016 9:00 am, Monday morning — the first day of New York Fashion Week Men’s — and I’m ready to embark on my first ever “men’s fashion week.”
Having covered and attended many New York Fashion Week: Women’s shows in the past (the shows referred to as “MB Fashion Week New York” until very recently), it was only right that my first experience of any “men’s fashion week” would begin here in New York. (Such menswear shows already existing in London, Milan and Paris.)
However, on Day 1, the feeling I have isn’t the same. I feel uncertainty — the nervousness of being a newbie within this sector of fashion. But I’m still excited to start my “freshman year” of covering and observing New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
The feeling I usually experience on Day 1 isn’t the same.
Industria Studios for NYMD presented by Cadillac
As I approach the entrance of Industria Studios — and the crowd of attendees gathering in front — excitement quickly overtakes my nervousness.
It’s the anticipation of viewing new collections before they enter the stores and are available for public consumption. This first day is all “presentations,” which I sometimes prefer. Presentations differ from runway shows in a few aspects: no seats; no runways; no models using their best walk to show how the garments move while being worn.
It’s the anticipation of viewing new collections before they enter the stores.
But the benefits of a presentation include the ability to be up close and personal with the fabric and garments for observation, feeling the quality of the craftsmanship and rich colors used in bold statements of style. They also allow for great pictures of the pieces, having time to set your shot and capture the angle you want.
Presentations differ from runway shows in a few aspects.
The morning presentations were as follows:
Cadet definitely paid tribute to the U.S. Army
by debuting their S/S16 collection with an assortment of paratrooper looks in tank tops, trench jackets (short), vests and shorts, making use of natural color tones such as rustic blue, olive green, concrete gray and tan.
I loved watching Steven Kolb, president of the CFDA (Council of Fashion Designers of America) go through each selection and really observe the work. It showed he still cared about the new collections being presented, and his eye is not yet jaded by viewing tons of collections prior to New York Fashion Week: Men’s.
I loved watching Steven Kolb go through each selection.
Boyswear’s spring/summer 2016 collection was titled “The Manson Family Singers”
and “colorful” would be an understatement. Though I did like the play on colors and some great prints overall, it took on a very California vibe, which I am sure will resonate internationally. However, I can see taking pieces from other collections in your ensemble and adding a great splash of color with the Boyswear SS16 collection.
I can see adding a great splash of color with the Boyswear SS16 collection.
CWST’s presentation included blue, black, and gray tones.
Linen blazers, tank tops, loosely woven shirts and a variety of tops were featured. However, the hit of the presentation for me was what the two designers described as “future seersucker”: a new way for a suit to be worn for the casual chic in all of us
The hit of the presentation was “future seersucker.”
GarciaVelez, having worked at such famed design houses as Alexander McQueen,
brought us the “Lucent Stasis” collection, which included inspiration from exploring the ideas of reflecting, concealing, diffusing and capturing the qualities of light. “I wanted to experiment with how to suspend the temporal quality of light within the garment,” said designer Carlos Garciavelez. “The challenge for me was to capture a finite quality of an incandescent source, and how that relates to the human body.” The collection utilized the fluorescent blue lights within the background, giving way to beautiful, sophisticated casual chic wear.
I wanted to experiment with how to suspend the temporal quality of light within the garment
This collection literally needed to be viewed in person to truly appreciate the geometric prints
and pastel colors inspired by the Bauhaus textiles of Annie Albers and Gunta Stolz. Styled to perfection and perfectly constructed, this was last on the tour of five presentations but definitely not least.
… geometric prints and pastel colors inspired by Bauhaus textiles …
Public School NYC have been on fire racking up awards
for their men’s and women’s collections. After taking over as creative directors of Donna Karan International, it was solidified that Maxwell and Dao are the true “it” guys in fashion. Their collection for the NYFW Men’s SS16 was criminally creative, minimalist, with a swagger attached that only Max and Dao can deliver. Always a pleasure to view the growth of a future household name in fashion.
… criminally creative, minimalist, with a swagger …
Calvin Klein Collection’s Menswear Spring/Summer show
truly lived up to the name the name of a “spring / summer” show. From the tonal shirts and matching suits — representations of summer waves and palm trees — on laminated jerseys and sheer sweaters, this was summer in motion, expressed through a collection. Some of my close colleagues have accused me of favoring Calvin Klein due to us growing up in close neighborhoods. However, for this show no favoritism was needed. Truly a work of art.
Some of my close colleagues have accused me of favoring Calvin Klein …
Who better to motivate the fashion community collectively to rise early for Day 3 than Michael Kors.
The collection was described as “island life,” which included seersucker suits (prepare for a major comeback next spring / summer), double-breasted two-piece suits and casual knits. And to complete the look, each model wore athletic-style sandals.
Prepare for a seersucker comeback next spring / summer.
(Editorial Note: At the risk of this coverage turning into a 16 chapter book, I will highlight some of our favorite moments of the next day and a half. Feel free to explore the collections further if you happen to see an outfit we have highlighted that may fit your style.)
Parke and Ronen