FWO Goes to Fashion Hideaway Monarch Rooftop Lounge
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
Mission: Enjoy one of the “fashion crowd’s” secret rooftop hideaways. A warm, lodge-inspired locale that could easily have substituted for the Switzerland’s Mürren resort in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Except with a decidedly Midtown spin (and without Blofeld’s Angels of Death).
This could have been the setting for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, but without Blofeld’s Angels of Death.
Walk with me: A brisk yet clear evening in New York, fall newly in the air, and FWO is on our way to a cocktail / dinner menu media tasting at the Monarch Rooftop in Midtown. Boasting impressive views of the Manhattan skyline and a direct close-up view of the iconic Empire State Building, the Scandinavian décor doubles as the perfect atmosphere for a chic dining and drinking experience while still giving a history lesson in fine interior design.
As if the retro-modern ambiance and views of the legendary New York City weren’t enough, then came the food … the first platter shortbread wedges with a mildly spicy hummus dip, followed by a meats and cheese platter with a variety of thinly sliced meats and a selection of cheeses. Next, some of my favorites: mini crab cakes, Monarch flatbread drizzled with an amazing balsamic sauce, and two more platters featuring tiger shrimp dumplings and chipotle chicken empanadas … all exquisitely tasteful.
By now, any patron would be thirsty. The waitress, who was very knowledgeable about the drinks (thanks Katie), suggested the “Ryde or Die” drink first, but my eyes were set on the “Royal Cherry Banger,” with Grey Goose Vodka, Galliano, brandied cherries, fresh grapefruit juice, and orange peel. I made the right choice. Every element was on point, but after I ordered the “Painkiller” — and then the “Ryde or Die” — I was convinced Monarch’s mixologist was a pro. Each drink had its own distinct identity, in perfect balance. As I sipped the “Ryde or Die” (final drink of the evening ), I looked up at the Empire State Building and felt obligated to raise my glass and toast to Monarch and this great city of mine. Cheers.
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Editorial Note: Monarch NYC Rooftop is located at 71 W. 35th st. Corner of 6th Ave. (Avenue of the Americas) | Hours: M – Thur. 4pm-2am | Fri – Sat 4pm-4am | Sun 4pm – 2am. Thank you to Laura and Mav for the hospitality and the accommodations. (Also, apologies for the James Bond / Mission Impossible mixed metaphor. But it was totally worth it.)
What do celebrities such as Rosario Dawson, Rachel Bilson, Nina Dobrev, and Kendall Jenner have in common? They all wear Boy Meets Girl®, the fun, edgy brand worn created by Stacy Igel.
The brand’s iconic boy and girl silhouette logo has been featured in publications including InStyle, Teen Vogue, Lucky, Seventeen, Women’s Wear Daily, and The New York Times, is currently sold at Nordstrom, and has previously been seen on the racks of department stores such as Bergdorf Goodman and Bloomingdales.
Inspired by the vibrant New York art and music scenes, Boy Meets Girl® has been a staple and leader at New York Fashion Week, as well.
In 2011, Boy Meets Girl® launched Boy Meets Girl® University, an initiative to reach high school and college students and educate them about the fashion industry. Boy Meets Girl® also takes pride in its involvement with the Young Survival Coalition, helping to raise awareness for Breast Cancer since 2001, as well as the National School Climate Center’s BullyBust Campaign, helping to prevent and raise awareness of bullying in schools.
We caught up with her at her last New York Fashion Week show.
Q: I am sitting here with Stacy Igel, mastermind behind Boy Meets Girl.
(Does a drumroll on the table) I don’t know what I’ve just done. (Laughing)
Q: Let’s take it back to the beginning. What was the first concept of Boy Meets Girl; what did you originally envision?
Uh-oh; this is going to be a long one. Boy Meets Girl is about that time in your life … about your first concert, about that time you first walked by someone on the subway, just about that time where you go to the coffee shop, and that guy you always see, he knows your drink … it’s about the iconic, timeless story.
That’s what’s happening here tonight. It’s about collaboration … about artists, musicians, and dancers, and fusing that all together. That’s the ethos of the brand, and that’s why we’re in a small space tonight: to really show that, and be focused on who the brand is. It’s not a runway show; it’s all about the people wearing the clothes, such as the artists. We have some mannequins displaying some clothes, but it’s really about the collaboration between people. That’s what you’re going to see tonight.
It’s about the iconic, timeless story. It’s about collaboration.
Q: Well, we’re excited! One thing you mentioned was the intimacy, and I see your logo is always the boy and the girl facing each other. Are you big on the intimacy reflected through the creation of the clothes? Is that why you collaborated with everyone here tonight?
Yeah, it’s about their art. It’s a reflection of that time for you; it’s not about me. It’s about everybody.
It’s not about me. It’s about everybody.
Q: How do you feel you’ll grow in the next 10 years? Where do you see it going?
I want the brand to be a global brand. I brought Wil here [referring to Randy Jackson’s new artist], who’s an international pop star in Singapore. He’s not yet well-known here, but he’s known internationally, and I also brought the heart of New York here.
I’m bringing underground here, the street team, and I want everybody to know the ethos of what Boy Meets Girl is. So I want to expand globally, domestically, and internationally, and keep doing what we’re doing: working with incredible, talented people.
Tonight, actually, we’re launching our website, which is powered by Shopify, who’s my partner on the website. So that has happened.
Q: Wow, how did that come about?
They wanted to work with a designer and someone who they could collab with and do a whole new strategy. I wanted to work with them because, you know, I want the most sophisticated everything: the best apps, the best shopping experience, and who better to partner with than Shopify?
I want the most sophisticated everything: who better to partner with than Shopify?
Q: Very true, very true. Now from what I’m seeing in the clothes is you went in the direction of black and the whites … monochromatic.
Black, white, monotone grey: that’s what our girl buys, you know. (chuckles) We sprinkle in some iridescent and florals and stripes, but at the end of the day, she buys black white and grey from us. Every year I sell the same black hoodie and t-shirt like hotcakes, but of course, there’s more beyond this. Tonight though it’s a black, white, and grey story, it really is.
Black, white, monotone grey: that’s what our girl buys.
Q: Regarding New York Fashion Week, how have you seen it change? Do you like the direction? Is this why you’re doing a more intimate space?
I believe for me, you know, I always do something new and fresh and different, and work with different artists, and I think that fashion week has changed a lot. I think traditional runways are going away, and that you need to be creative. It has to be a new concept, and you have to think technology, and you have to think so many different ways. For me, I think it’s completely changing. Not everyone wants to go to a runway show. I love them; I’ve been going to them since I was very young. I still love going to them, but I think it’s become stagnant, so you have to be new and fresh and create something different. And that’s what I’m doing. [In her Austin Power’s imitation.]
You have to be new and fresh, and create something different
Q: Ok, one last question — and this is a doozie. What would you tell “you starting out” about the industry?
That’s a beautiful question, and I think I’m going to steal that one. I would say, keep doing what you’re doing, and believe in yourself. It is a f’ing hard hard-ass business. It’s tough, it’s really really tough. But if you can handle it, and stomach it … keep doing it.
So, would I tell myself not to do it? No. Because I believed in myself, and my vision, and I’m here today. It’s changed so much with “fast fashion,” and it’s a very different business. I would say to myself then, “Believe in yourself, kick ass, wake up, kick ass, repeat” … and that’s what I do!
Q: I want to thank you for taking the time. Love you, Stacy.
Editor’s Note: Naeem Khan has the distinction of being our #1 reader favorite for the season. Congratulations, Naeem!
Naeem Khan’s NYFW Show: Beyond Elegance
Every season, I make certain to mark Naeem Khan’s show on my calendar.
When I was a 21-year-old old man trying to sneak into the New York Fashion Week tents of Bryant Park, I knew fashion week meant glamour, sophistication, and elegance. That’s why I was so eager to get in and catch a glimpse of at least one of the shows. Fast-forward to the present day, and Naeem Khan is a designer who brings me back to that nostalgic moment of discovery. I am “21-year-old me,” carried away by it all, again.
Elegance. Glamour. Sophistication. All these words are synonymous with Naeem Khan’s collections. But when it comes to actually attending one of his NYFW shows, that’s really just the tip of the iceberg.
But at Khan’s NYFW runway show, “elegance” is just the tip of the iceberg.
Another widely-known aspect of Naeem Khan’s shows is the amazing backdrops of his runway. This year’s SS16 show unveiled a white garden door as the centerpiece of a beautiful red floral wall that easily exceeded 15 feet in height. My anticipation and love for Naeem Khan’s show was not in the least bit misplaced.
As the show began, I deeply appreciated my front row seat. The Spring Summer 2016 collection drew inspiration from the sun-drenched gardens of the South of France and azure blue waters of Capri, skillfully blending in the soft palette of the French Impressionists. Here was Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy, expertly channeled for vacation-ready clothing that still kept an air of sophistication and class.
Here was Grace Kelly and Jackie Kennedy, expertly channeled for vacation-ready clothing.
From the moment the first piece of the collection made its way down the runway, I knew my love for this designer was well warranted. A collection boasting intricate embroidery, detailed beading, and even woven raffia cannot be wrong. And as if my mind wasn’t already in glam overload, the color palettes sent me into a state closer to euphoria.
Watching infusions of orange, azure, and vibrant hues of yellow, lilac, wine, and rose reds, piece after piece became a constant visual treat. Some of the standout pieces within the collection were a breathtaking natural raffia lace ball gown; a bolero with scarlet floral embroidery; a lemon floral-beaded caftan; a beautiful lilac gazar ball gown with floral-embroidered bodice; an anthracite floral-beaded jumpsuit; and a bougainvillea gazar ball gown with ruffle neckline.
As Naeem himself joined his models for the final walk, the bright colors mixed with beautiful construction and embroidery, demonstating why droves of celebrities and dignitaries choose his gowns for red carpet appearances and special occasions.
My love for fashion once again was renewed. Thanks Naeem.
Here it is. Your “edit.”
Okay: New York Fashion Week is not a competition. But the simple fact is, not everyone can “love” everything equally, all of the time. (Just ask Anna Wintour, who’s made a career out of making frank choices.) But the good news is, sometimes, people do want to show a little extra love. And that’s where you, our readers, come in.
So with that aside, the voting has been closed, and here they are, for Spring Summer 2016: the ones you loved to “love” — and loved to watch, regardless of whether they ended up being your favorite.
Here are the ones you loved, and loved to watch.
While you’re at it, be sure to take a longer look at some designers who may be new to you. Because they might be right here: in the Top 10.
Some designers who may be new to you are right here: in the Top 10.
Top 10 Most Loved
Here are the NYFW shows that made you smile, whisked you away to a magical land o’ dreams, or just caused you to say a small, inward “hurrah.” (A minimum of 15 “loves” was required.)
Naeem Khan, most “loved” for New York Fashion Week Spring 20161. Naeem Khan
There was almost universal love for the Mumbai-born designer whose timelessly elegant NYFW collection would make Cinderella blush.
Reader Comments
“One of my favorite collections for the S/S 2016 season!” — Monica Hampton
The American label from by Mark Badgley and James Mischka presented an imminently wearable NYFW collection that was at-once youthful, inventive and timeless. This was a collection that would be equally at home at the opera, having brunch with friends, or while strolling the Avenue George V. (You, wearing the collection, we mean. Not the clothes all by themselves. That would be kind of cool, though.)
The legend continues, with a collection that evoked Old World glamour and stayed true to its Dominican namesake’s roots. The man may be gone, but the tropical-by-way-of-Spain, Hispaniola looks live on, under Creative Director Peter Copping.
Herrera’s collection was svelte and minimalist, with sunglasses that seemed to combine Paris chic with just a touch of steampunk. (We know: it made us kind of nervous, too.)
Wylde’s collection was decidedly American, with elements of ’70s and ’80s vintage rock-chic. When you bring your Rubik’s Cube to the disco, better be wearing Thomas Wylde.
When you bring your Rubik’s Cube to the disco, better be wearing Thomas Wylde.
Givenchy gave the most memorable presentation of the season (with the exception perhaps of Prabal Gurung’s 30 monks: see #10). Certainly the most lavish (and rumoredly expensive) production of any NYFW to date. The collection also included menswear, prompting extra love from readers.
The collection was carried by Fritz Lang-inspired, 1920s-era Art Deco embellishments. But it was the ornate Byzantine face masks that really pushed Tisci’s latest collection into the stratosphere.
Reader Comments
“I’m really liking the men’s suits.” — Tony
“This is a statement, that must make people all over the world think. The most beautiful statement ever made in the fashion industry.” — Kirse
“This collection is so romantic and elegant! Joan definitely sported the night’s best piece.” — Michael Carr
“Just beautiful! One of those WOW moments.” — Jade
American designer Valvo presented a smart, balanced collection made up of his signature evening-wear and high-end cocktail dresses, with some sharply cut menswear pieces for good measure. It’s no wonder the designer has a best-selling swimwear line at Victoria’s Secret.
Although Max Azria’s BCBG collection wasn’t received as strongly this season as last, there was a lot of love for Hervé Léger, and a lot to love. A sexy moog number provided the musical backdrop for a geometric collection with Azria’s always gorgeous patterns and silhouettes.
Reader Comments
“Always a fashion week favorite!!!!! The line never fails to disappoint me. In awe from start to finish. The details are to die for!!” – Michael Carr
Our 10th favorite show (of 272 shows, no small feat) — as chosen by readers — was by Nepalese-American designer Prabal Gurung. Showing the wearability that brought him to Target, his collection was introduced by 30 monks from Tibet and Nepal, assembled with the help of the Dalai Lama (no less). The collection itself was minimalist, sleek and sexy, with Eastern-inspired fabrics and patterns reminiscent of 1970s fabric art.
Top 10 Most Watched
Just seeing how many “loves” these designers had should give you some idea of just how popular they are. Givenchy, on their first New York Fashion Week appearance, was edged out by perennial favorite Alexander Wang’s more poorly received collection … but not by much.
Alexander Wang garnered mixed reviews — and a range of “loves,” from “I’m Melting” to “Maybe Next Season” — for NYFW Spring 2016.
Reader Comments
“Wow, they’re so tough and ‘street.’ We get it.” — Jillson
“Honestly one of my favorites so far! Alex’s enthusiasm and love for everything real and streetwear transcends. The music is great, the pieces are great, and I loved the tribute at the end! He’s definitely had a great 10-year run.” — Michael Carr
“Very old school feel and the music gives it a great intensity. I give it 5 hearts.” — Tony
“LOVE IT” — Thomas E. Ruffin
“Just breathtaking! The fabric is exquisite!” — Deborah Netzela-Jenkins
For NYFW SS16, Michael Kors ended up with 3 hearts (“Warm Fuzzies”), at 59 votes. Viewers seemed to feel the collection was disjointed and unflattering. Although we aren’t Kors fans per se, we saw an awful lot to like in this collection.
The instrumental version of Joni Mitchell’s “Ladies of the Canyon” probably didn’t hurt.
Reader Comments
“Disjointed and certainly not complimentary to the female body.” — Jane Schlachter
“Yes and no … the no’s outweigh the yes’s though. There’s soooooomething off about this … I can’t put my finger on it.” — Michael Carr
Our Favorite Show of Spring-Summer 2016 (So Far): Moschino
If anyone can fire a self-referential, confetti-filled bazooka at branding while still putting on one of the most playful and fashionable shows of 2016, surely that man is Jeremy Scott. With his unabashedly fun, cartoon-inspired sensibility, he was also surely the right man to succeed Rossella Jardini at Moschino.
Scott’s latest collection does what all great fashion collections do. Rather like Versace’s collection last season, push the boundaries forward while channeling the best of multiple cultures and eras. In this case, Scott mashes Japanime with swinging London, ‘50s prom dress chic, 1800s saloon burlesque, and a retro-futuristic industrial sensibility reminiscent of Kraftwerk and Looney Tunes.
If that seems like an awful lot of ground to cover in one show, it’s only because an awful lot happened in 17 minutes.
If that seems like an awful lot of ground to cover in one show, it’s only because an awful lot happened.
$500? Why pay rent? We’ll take 2!
Topping it all off was the bit of fun at the brand’s own expense. After all, if you’ve ever wanted to spend $500 on a cap — rather than, say, rent — that’s 90% branding, Moschino has always been the place to do that.
And yet, there’s something comforting and refreshing about the honesty. Leave the not-very-subtle, status-building brands like Louis Vuitton and Gucci to the people who feel they need a bit of a push among their peers. (Probably the same people who live out of their Lexus, BMW or Mercedes.)
This logo shows you’re not to be trifled withThese stripes show you’re a big shotThis pattern means you’re “rich”
Moschino’s branding is right where it needs to be: with a good bit of not taking itself too seriously.
Moschino’s branding is right where it needs to be.
FWO Talks to Zev Norotsky of Panasonic Beauty Bar at NYFW
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
Pampering. What would fashion be without it? (Much less fashion week?)
We all dream of a little extra love and attention from time to time — whether in the form of a terry bathrobe from Target, a splurge on a Scottish cashmere sweater, or a long hug from someone we love. If there’s a right way and a wrong way to bring branding to New York Fashion Week, this is definitely the right way.
Q: What inspired you to put this all together, and what’s the premise behind it?
I think fashion week as a whole is just a tremendous backdrop. So we decided to create the Beauty Bar platform, which gives back to the influencers, celebrities and VIPs who are coming in to New York Fashion Week. It’s a hectic week; there’s a lot going on. And this has sort of become an oasis away from the tents and all the craziness from the night before, or for planning the night ahead.
This has become an oasis from all the craziness.
Folks come by the Beauty Bar to get their hair done, makeup applied, or their nails done. And we’re very fortunate to be able to work with a brand like Panasonic, which allows us to create this environment. Today is as much about creating a hang, and giving people a place to network, generate some social media and meet celebrities, as much as it is about the beauty treatments. We like that balance, and I think it works really well.
It’s as much about creating a hang, and giving people a place to network and meet celebrities, as much it is about the beauty treatments.
We’ve been doing this for 10 years now, so ….
Q: I saw a few celebrities here. Do they reach out to you, or do you reach out to them, or is it a mutual ….
It’s a combination. The fact that Beauty Bar has become sort of an institution on the circuit gives us a lot of credibility. Folks know when they come they’re going to get first-class stylists, service and treatments, and that gives them a level of comfort that I think you have to build up over time. So we pound the pavement; we put out feelers to agents and managers and things like that. But for the most part, it’s a relationship game, and we’re in a good position.
Folks know they’re going to get first-class stylists, service and treatments.
Q: Where do you see the Beauty Bar going in the next 10 years? Do you want it to be a whole week of the Panasonic Beauty Bar?
What I’ve seen this year in particular, which is sort of a good indication of where things are going, is we’ve traditionally done the Panasonic Beauty Bar in hubs like New York and Los Angeles. We’re now starting to see some of the “B” markets having some demand for Beauty Bar. Like the Latin Grammys in Las Vegas; you’re bringing out such a key group of influencers. This has become an amenity that they want to see in those places. So I think that’s been the greatest evolution for Beauty Bar.
And that’s also a testament to the level of service we’re able to provide here.
Lela Rose’s Spring Summer 2016 Show, New York Fashion Week
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director with Pablo Starr
Lela Rose launched her collection in 1996 out of her apartment. Her signature style is airy, feminine, colorful and gossamer: like something hatched from Shakespeare’s A Midsummer Night’s Dream, attended by will-o’-the-wisps and conjured to life by Queen Mab’s wand.
But it’s Rose’s mastery of color that makes her designs a standout. The Show
[portfolio_slideshow id=7034 align=center width=699 click=advance thumbnailsize=40 showcaps=true] Show Report
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
As I walked into the Skylight Clarkson space for Lela Rose’s show, and made my way through the maze of lines, I was wondering what the décor would be this season. She didn’t disappoint. Guests were greeted with hundreds of tulips, illuminated by rose-colored light.
As the lights went low, I was immediately transported into a natural landscape. There’s always a quick moment before the first model struts out where extreme anticipation and euphoric pleasure comes over me. It reminds me that, when it comes to fashion, I’m not too far removed from the 21-year-old who used to try to sneak into the shows in Bryant Park.
There’s something wonderful about seeing these collections six months before they arrive in stores.
There’s something wonderful about seeing these collections six months before they arrive in stores.
(Above, a fun report from Elle)
Lela’s first piece was a bias stripe fringe tweed dress, which could be seen as a transitional piece from “chic working woman” to “after work” style. The collection overall consisted of 45 pieces, which ranged from tweeds to dresses with paper-light fringe, in colors that included softer hues of posy with an infusion of citrine and radiant orange.
Beautiful long dresses with flowered embroidery are Lela’s hallmark, and this show was no exception.
Overall, the collection was cohesive and intricate. Well done, Ms. Rose.
Contemporary lifestyle brand Boy Meets Girl celebrated their Spring / Summer 2016 collection on September 12, with an intimate event that brought out the likes of Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, OITNB’s Emma Myles, Kimiko Glenn, Joel Marsh Garland & Laura Gomez, Randy Jackson, Justine Skye, Wil, & more. The Fun
Boy Meets Girl® is an edgy, yet wearable, stylish yet casually classic, young contemporary brand. The brand, currently sold in Nordstrom and on Nordstrom.com, offers graphics tops and bottoms, as well as jackets, sweaters and accessories.
Boy Meets Girl® Founder and Creative Director, Stacy Igel, has received several design awards and honors. As one of today’s leading trendsetters, Stacy and the brand have been featured in premier publications including Elle, InStyle, Teen Vogue, WWD, Seventeen, and the New York Times, among others and has been worn by high-profile fashionistas such as Kendall Jenner, Hailee Steinfeld, and Brittany Snow.
V ivienne Tam is widely regarded as the doyenne of “East-meets-West fusion” couture. She made her debut with 1983’s “East Wind Code,” and she’s a humble presence and soft-spoken person. But whether it’s writing about Sean Combs for TIME, creating a controversial line around a despot, or embracing the latest technology: Tam is anything but shy.
She began by selling her designs out of a duffel bag to Henri Bendel.
Chairman Mao via FIDM Museum & Library
But her breakthrough came with a collection centered around Chairman Mao Zedong — a controversial figure credited variously with driving imperialism out of China, modernizing the nation, and causing the deaths of 40 to 70 million people through starvation, forced labor and executions. In the collection, Mao is depicted playfully, even charmingly. The effect is at once lighthearted and disturbing; rather like Richard Grayson’s surrealist story, “With Hitler in New York.”
Tam will make you think.
Last season, our reporter Julia Zeldin was able to interview Tam via live stream. This season, Editor-in-Chief Chris Collie was able to sit down for a longer chat. The New Collection
Whether it’s writing about Sean Combs for TIME, creating a controversial line around a despot, or embracing the latest technology: Tam is anything but shy.
Q: We’re definitely honored today to be sitting with famed designer Vivienne Tam. Thank you so much. I want to go back to a little to the beginning. So you were born in the largest city in the south, Guangzhou.
We call it Canton.
Q: You are renowned for being an East to West fusion fashion designer. So when were you introduced to Western style and how did you become known as the best of both worlds?
I grew up in Hong Kong. You know, Hong Kong is like “East meets West,” and I am the embodiment of “East meets West culture”; I grew up with it. We used chopsticks at home, but when we go out, we use fork and knife.
We used chopsticks at home, but forks and knives when we went out.
Tam’s book, China Chic (First Edition)
We grew up in a Chinese Buddhist culture, and I would go to temples with my parents. But in Catholic school, we sang hymns and read Bibles.
I would go to temples with my parents. But in Catholic school, we sang hymns and read Bibles./blockquote>
It’s a bit confused how we grew up, but it’s part of me and I loved it. We would study English and Chinese history and Chinese literature. And it’s really because of the mixed culture that I became who I am. Therefore it’s my work. I am who I am.
I didn’t understand why we were Chinese but only looking to Western culture.
When I grew up I didn’t understand why we’re Chinese but are only looking to the Western culture; and Chinese history is so amazing, especially the art, the artifacts and the handcrafts: it’s amazing.
I didn’t know it was called “fashion”; I just loved making clothes for myself.
And I grew up shopping in Chinese department stores, and the Chinese department store products are amazing. I wanted to transform them into modern and contemporary products. I’ve always had that passion, especially when I make my own clothes. My mother taught me how to make clothes for myself. I didn’t know that was called “fashion” at that time; I just loved making clothes for myself. And I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress for myself, dress up myself, myself become a doll.
I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress and become a doll.
And I didn’t have money for dolls, so I would make a dress for myself, dress up myself, myself become a doll.
Q:So you were your first model. Yes. I was my first model and I loved dressing myself and I love when I make my own clothes, and when I wear it and people would say, “Oh you look beautiful, I love your dress,” and I would feel really happy. I think that is my driving force and my passion, as well as the Chinese culture. I want to share what I’m doing and inject “Chinese-ness” into my work, and I can share my culture to the world through my work. I become the bridge between two cultures.
Q:The East and West, yes, you really have.
And when I came over here, I love you New York. It gives me the opportunity to become who I am. Because in Hong Kong you would never be successful, because people are only looking to the West for their fashions. And you have a Chinese name, using China as an inspiration, in China, it’s never going to be successful.
I said “I want to be who I am. I want to really share my culture with the world.” That’s how I started. It’s my passion, my culture and the mix of the East and the West, the modern and the old history, constantly trying to balance: the yin and yang philosophy.
We are constantly living in the world as a yin-yang you know, five elements. I want to share the culture and philosophies with the world of how we live.
We are constantly living in the world as a yin-yang.
Q:It translates really well.
Thank you. And there are so many beautiful patterns and workmanship. Each collection has a different theme, and I translate them into the clothing and then when people wear it, it’s like we are creating a conversation. I believe that the work it has a voice; you create your own voice through your work.
When people wear the work, it’s like we’re having a conversation
Q:Absolutely. A lot of you may not know you used to sell your designs from a duffle bag to Henri Bendel and other New York stores. Who was there for you in the beginning and what would you say was your biggest break? When do you think that turning point came?
Tam’s Designer Netbook for HP
I didn’t know anything when I started. I didn’t know there was a gallon bag; I sorted everything into duffel bags. And then went to the opening day. I think Henri Bendel had an opening day. I was wearing one of my outfits under this big Chinese army coat. And duffel bags with like 20-something pieces of my work. The buyer loved it. She said “the whole year I haven’t seen something this exciting.” It was really exciting for me and she wrote, every day, you should call Sacks, you should call Barneys, and she gave me so many suggestions: who I should talk to and gave me such great advice, and said “Vivienne I will give you the window.” It’s America, it’s New York that gave me the opportunities to become who I am, and I feel really excited to be here and then go into the other stores.
New York gave me the opportunities to become who I am.
Of course it’s very difficult in the very beginning trying to call the stores. I am a Chinese designer coming from Hong Kong, where there were no designers, only manufacturers. But I really wanted to, that was the driving force. I wanted to show them there are Chinese designers, not just manufacturers; there is creativity there; there’s so much of in our history and culture there. I wanted to show the world that world that my country …
Q:That there are people out there who are talented. Absolutely. Absolutely.
We’re not just manufacturers; there is creativity; there are designers there; there is such great history there.
China isn’t just manufacturers; there is creativity there. There are designers there.
Q:Now let me ask you this, a lot of our viewers know you from “East Wind Code” and the Mao Collection. You and Zhang Hong–
Zhang Hongtu.
Q:Zhang Hongtu? There, you see? Gotta get the names right. Struck a chord with the Chinese market during that time. Now was there ever a point where you felt you were bringing too much Chinese culture into your work, or did you always know that this was working, and you wanted to stay in that vein?
“Last Banquet” by Zhang Hongtu
That collection gave me the world recognition. There were so many problems when I was doing the collection, but I really loved it. It was the beginning of me mixing art and fashion together. And working with the artist and reinforced to me that I am an artist, using clothing as a vehicle to express my feelings and my passion.
It was the beginning of me mixing art and fashion together. And it reinforced to me that I am an artist, using clothing as a vehicle.
So every collection I’m trying to choose the theme, and I use embroideries and fabrics, mixing the fabrics to interpret art into fashion that people can wear and look good, and that will also sell well too. I have to think about art and also commerce at the same time; it’s very, very important; and then it looks good on the person and also there is a conversation between the designer and the wearer.
I have to think about art and also commerce at the same time.
I feel that my show is like a gallery; people come in to see my work. But it’s wearable art, and they can see how I interpret the ideas through my embroideries, the treatments and the embellishments, and how I mix the fabrics and the forms, and all combine together to create the art and they will look good on the person. And that’s my challenge and that’s my excitement for every collection: how I am going to do it.
My show is like a gallery; people come in to see my work. It’s wearable art.
Q:Your new collection is coming soon. What can they expect from the collection, and is there going to be a new fusion of some art that you’ve seen? Do you go and look at artwork and then …?
All the time. I go to all the art shows and galleries, always thinking about using fabric and technology, different kinds of fabrics to create something new: new textures, new surface-like effects. I’m looking at new ways of light mixing, sewing techniques and fabrications to really make it new. That’s my challenge now. Of course in this collection you will see some more of that and the combinations together. Technology fabric and more traditional fabrics mixing together: you will see some like new directions too in the coming collection.
I go to art shows, always thinking about using fabric to create something new: new textures, new surface-like effects.
Q:Now, it’s funny you said technology because I know you did the collaboration with Netbook, with HP? Is that a lane you want to go in? More technology based, because there’s such a big technology spill in the world today as far as everyone using technology? Was that your goal was that, or it just kind of naturally organically happen?
I think it’s a naturally happening because we can’t live without technology, like technology fabrics; like this piece that I’m wearing. And it’s very interesting you know; it’s like mixing old and new materials together to create a new visual interest and surface textures.
And then partnering with different types of technology companies enabled me to learn more about technology and how to communicate with my customers. I can’t say that they are customers, they are my fans: expanding my fan base, you know. And I learn about the other side of the business and its win-win situation, and it’s really, really great you know.
Partnering with different types of technology companies enabled me to learn more about technology and how to communicate with my customers.
I can use technology to express my creativity and my view of fashion, and I think it’s really, really great. It’s a great opportunity. We can’t live without technology. Every day, every month you have a new form of communication. And it’s just different forms of creativity.
Technology is just a different form of creativity.
Q:New apps, new everything, every day.
New apps, communications, I mean new design; it’s so exciting; we’re in a very exciting century.
Q: If you met the younger version of you, when you first started, what advice would you give the younger version of you, now that you know what you know?
It’s very tough business. You’ve got believe in what you’re doing. You have to go for it.
It’s very tough business, you know, a very, very difficult business. You constantly need to know what is new this season. So you’ve got to really truly believe in what you’re doing and have passion in what you’re doing. You have to go for it. There are difficulties, ups and downs, in the fashion world. This one season they love the work, the next season they didn’t love you; it’s not that they didn’t love you, but there is a somebody new they …
Q:They went to someone else.
They went to somebody else. Then you have to stay true to yourself, keep growing, keep going there, and then you will find your own voice, and then your customer will see your belief and the customer will loves you. They’ll keep loving you and go better if your work is going better. You have to keep growing, keep yourself growing. Never give up, never give up, persistency is so important.
You have to keep growing. Never give up. Persistence is so important.
Q:And because, I know that was the last question but I just wanted to ask you one thing because you mentioned it and it’s a good point. When you have a season where the press, or the media, or the buyers don’t receive it well, how do you get over that? How would you find the motivation to keep going? Does it really hurt, or do you just kind of brush it off?
Yeah, people are constantly telling me “no Vivienne, don’t do this; too much Chinese. But I love what I’m doing; I need to please myself with what I do; I need to be happy with what I’m doing.
I need to keep doing what I’m doing but bring some newness. Reinventing yourself I think is most important. And being positive, not saying “Oh, they don’t like my work, they’ll go to somebody else,” and then giving up, no. You listen to the buyers, you listen to your fans to see what they want. For me it’s very important to be able to deliver beautiful collections that are great looking and sell well, because when the person is wearing it, people love it.
I want to deliver beautiful collections that are great looking and sell well, because when the person wears it, people love it.
Never give up, infuse newness in your work and challenge yourself.
Q:Now that’s a good note to end on … Where there is a difficulty, it’s really making you stronger. How you go through that difficulty is the challenge.
Difficulty makes you stronger.
Q:How you survive it.
The survivor. That’s where creativity is.
Q:You see, words from the genius herself.
That’s the challenge of every season, but it’s part of life.
As if the retro-modern ambiance and views of the legendary New York City weren’t enough, then came the food … the first platter shortbread wedges with a mildly spicy hummus dip, followed by a meats and cheese platter with a variety of thinly sliced meats and a selection of cheeses. Next, some of my favorites: mini crab cakes, Monarch flatbread drizzled with an amazing balsamic sauce, and two more platters featuring tiger shrimp dumplings and chipotle chicken empanadas … all exquisitely tasteful.
By now, any patron would be thirsty. The waitress, who was very knowledgeable about the drinks (thanks Katie), suggested the “Ryde or Die” drink first, but my eyes were set on the “Royal Cherry Banger,” with Grey Goose Vodka, Galliano, brandied cherries, fresh grapefruit juice, and orange peel. I made the right choice. Every element was on point, but after I ordered the “Painkiller” — and then the “Ryde or Die” — I was convinced Monarch’s mixologist was a pro. Each drink had its own distinct identity, in perfect balance. As I sipped the “Ryde or Die” (final drink of the evening ), I looked up at the Empire State Building and felt obligated to raise my glass and toast to Monarch and this great city of mine. Cheers.
Inspired by the vibrant New York art and music scenes, Boy Meets Girl® has been a staple and leader at New York Fashion Week, as well.
Yeah, it’s about their art. It’s a reflection of that time for you; it’s not about me. It’s about everybody. 
Givenchy gave the most memorable presentation of the season (with the exception perhaps of Prabal Gurung’s 30 monks: see #10). Certainly the most lavish (and rumoredly expensive) production of any NYFW to date. The collection also included menswear, prompting extra love from readers. 
Yes. I was my first model and I loved dressing myself and I love when I make my own clothes, and when I wear it and people would say, “Oh you look beautiful, I love your dress,” and I would feel really happy. I think that is my driving force and my passion, as well as the Chinese culture. I want to share what I’m doing and inject “Chinese-ness” into my work, and I can share my culture to the world through my work. I become the bridge between two cultures.
Where there is a difficulty, it’s really making you stronger. How you go through that difficulty is the challenge.
