Lela Rose Fall 2016: The Name of the Rose

Last season, Lela Rose wowed us with a ceiling of pink roses, setting the mood for a fairy tale escape. This year, Lela went with a colorful palette somewhere between 1986’s Pretty in Pink and the unmistakably French interior of Fauchon at Place de la Madeleine. A huge warped mirror behind the runway added a larger-than-life surrealist touch. I found my seat and waited for the collection to begin. In the last moments I decided to read the show program insert, which took me completely by surprise.

 
The Collection

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“I think it is understood but not often emphasized,” read Lela’s program, “that every season and collection is a culmination of a large team effort. This season, it has been even more so. My father, Rusty Rose, passed away suddenly two weeks ago. The sadness of my family’s loss has has been profound and left me unable to devote the attention that I normally would give to every detail.”

The sadness of my family’s loss has has been profound,” read the program.

Having experienced the loss of my own father, I couldn’t even imagine how she had the strength to do anything, let alone a New York Fashion Week show. My heart ached for her. There is no pain that can describe the loss of a parent until one has experienced it.

After gathering myself, another tidbit caught my eye in small but bold font:

“For the first time, looks 4, 27 & 35 will be exclusively available for purchase beginning today at LelaRose.com.”

Looks 4, 27 & 35 will be exclusively available for purchase beginning today.”

Now I felt a sense of excitement. I found it refreshing that a designer of Lela’s stature would embrace technology — and satisfy her consumer base — by having runways looks available instantly.

This season a number of designers such as Burberry are exploring getting product to market for the season in which the runway actually occurs, rather than the season to come. Rose’s foray into the “instant purchase” model makes me wonder if this isn’t a test for something larger to come.

I wonder if this is a test for something larger to come.

The first piece set the tone immediately: an indigo vine-jacquard bell-sleeve top with matching pant and a leaf brooch, crisply presented, reassuring me Lela’s team had come through for her after her tragic loss.

For the next few minutes we were treated to texture and combinations that focused on separates, clean lines, and sleek feminine lines. Next came beautiful transitional pieces with a nod to Valentine’s Day (which has been the day before the show), in a versatile and eminently wearable collection that ran the gamut from sheer top dresses with heart appliqués to statement coats of mohair and cashmere, in color palettes from dusty pink, oxblood, black, charcoals, silver, to gold. The collection impressed me with its seamless transitions from fun flirty outfits to businesswoman chic.

Seeing Lela come out for the final bow made me want to run and give her a series of hugs, for her loss, her collection, and showing me resilience within a collection.

Lela, on behalf of FWO, our sincerest condolences for your loss: but always know your father is looking down, proud.

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Shop the Runway

LelaRose.com

 
With love,

FWO

Bibhu Mohapatra FW16

There comes a time in one’s career, hopefully, where he/she has a moment of clarity and understands exactly why they fell in love with their field. During this season’s New York Fashion Week FW16 season, that moment came at Bibhu Mohapatra’s runway show. Upon entering The Dock, Skylight at Moynihan Station, there was already a buzz in the air surrounding Bibhu’s show.

 
The Collection

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While talking to one of the PR reps, Fern Mallis walked by and we exchanged pleasantries. Then, turning to my left I noticed Steven Kolb (president and CEO of the CFDA) smiling and speaking to another colleague. The energy was building with each minute as people clamored in to scramble to their seats. (I want to thank the PR team for ensuring I had a front row view of the collection that was about to make me fall in love with fashion all over again.)

While sitting and looking through the run of show — reading the description of the pieces and trying to guess what could be the inspiration for this season — I noticed the show hands start removing tape from the sides of the plastic cover over the runway. This is the moment people start checking their cameras, prepping their note pads, making sure their pen’s ink is strong, and ensuring they have the best view of the show. Then — the last component that always makes me overflow with anticipation — the lights go completely black: it’s showtime!

This is the moment people start checking their cameras …

The moment the music started pumping through the speakers and the lights came up in perfect synchronicity with the first piece, I was thrilled: the most beautiful ebony and navy-pleated silk crêpe dress with self-harness tie; a lace top with a leather dragonfly choker and skin-graft hosiery; I knew it was time to forget about taking pictures and really experience this collection.

Thankfully, I managed to take some pictures for my memory, but for your viewing pleasure you will get the authenticity of each piece within the collection from the professional images. The collection’s cohesiveness was undeniable, but still showed so much depth in regard to texture and color palettes, incorporating everything from parkas to silver fox-lining to minks mixed with cocktail dresses.

As each piece continued to cement Bibhu’s rightful place among the greats, I found myself now mentally placing each piece on a certain type of woman, such as the fabled Upper East side businesswoman; the socialite; the chic mogul, etc. There were definitely enough amazing looks to complement multiple modes of dress and vibe within this single, singular collection.

My prediction is, Bibhu will have a very powerful Fall / Winter ’16, and we can expect to see a few of his pieces on the red carpet this season.

We can expect to see a few of his pieces on the red carpet this season.

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With love,

FWO

Zac Posen Brooks Brothers FW16

On a blistering cold day in New York in the heart of the Art District in Chelsea, Zac Posen and Brooks Brothers presented their collaboration in an exclusive setting within The Glasshouses. Among the particularly exclusive fashion community of editors, buyers, photographers and journalists, which included the likes of celebrity stylist/author June Ambrose, Nina Garcia, Robert Verdi, and Miss J, the models stood tall and astute, instantly showing us this will be the “Year of the Power Woman.”

 
The Collection

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Zac Posen was able to capture the feel of today’s woman by giving her options for a power-chic wardrobe. With pieces that can be described as timeless, classic, ’70s-inspired — yet unmistakably modern in cut and silhouette — Zac took us into the realm of the modern day Brooks Brothers woman: chic, business oriented, but who sees her wardrobe as a collection of investment pieces rather than designer duds.

The modern Brooks Brothers woman sees her wardrobe as a collection of investment pieces.

The collection was shown in presentation form — in lieu of runway show — which meant journalists, editors, and photographers had time to set up their cameras and take close-up shots of the detailed stitching, textures used, and had enough time to take note of their favorite pieces, the feel of the clothing, and maybe even snatch a sound bite or two from Mr. Posen himself.

Between the well-cut blazers, suits, and beautiful camel-color trenches, one saw the dedication and precision that’s the signature of Posen’s collections.

Brooks Brothers, of course, is traditionally known for their classic suits for men. But now the Power Woman has a new wardrobe to explore, thanks to Zac Posen and Brooks Brothers.

Now the Power Woman has a new wardrobe to explore, thanks to Zac Posen and Brooks Brothers

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Shop Now

BrooksBrothers.com

With love,

FWO

Room With a Shoe: Chloe Gosselin FW16

In the 1950s, Andy Warhol painted shoes. And why not? No one who’s ever thought of shoes as art needs convincing that footwear is a genre of expression unto itself.

Chloe Gosselin, Creative Director of her eponymous women’s shoe brand, CHLOE GOSSELIN, unveiled her Valentine’s Day-inspired, Fall 2016 collection in a beautiful setting specially designed in collaboration with Nicole Fuller Interiors and flowers from Putnam & Putnum.

 
The Collection

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Photos: BFA

The season’s color and texture palette mysteriously marries black matte and patent leathers. Delicate camel suedes and dove-gray pony hairs flirt with rich, saturated shades of red and rose, and provocative, metallic silver snake skins. In addition to Gosselin’s beloved classic styles, the collection also includes a variety of new silhouettes, including the Narcissus — a delicate new sandal with sweeping ankle straps — and the Galanthus: an alluring leather or suede boot that continues undaunted to the wearer’s mid-thigh.

Each collection is handmade in Italy.

There seems to be no stopping the brand. Gosselin debuted her first shoe collection for Fall/Winter 2014.

Now Chloe Gosselin is coming to Barneys New York.

Chloe Gosselin is coming to Barneys New York.

The concept of the Fall / Winter presentation was to bring to life the inner sanctum of the Chloe Gosselin woman — her boudoir. Lori Bookstein Fine Art was transformed into this mythical space thanks to Nicole Fuller — the award-winning, celebrity interior designer — who worked with Chloe to design the concept.

The presentation brought to life the Chloe Gosselin boudoir.

The bed used in the presentation was from Nicole Fuller’s collaboration with Savoir Beds (the same company responsible for making the bed for Prince William and Princess Kate).

The bed was made by the same company who made the bed for Prince William and Princess Kate.

And as if that wasn’t enough, the headboard was made of Loro Piana cashmere. (In case you didn’t know, Loro Piana is widely considered the finest cashmere on the planet. And if you’re wondering what that means, just ask our publisher, who last winter almost shelled out $2k for a Loro Piana turtleneck before coming to his senses.)

Hollywood fashion illustrator Regina Yazdi was on hand creating watercolors of every guest’s favorite shoe.

The flowers were by Putnam & Putnum, who Chloe works with every season creatively. After all, all of Chloe’s shoes are named after poisonous flowers.

All of Chloe’s shoes are named after poisonous flowers.

 
Into the Sanctum

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Photos: BFA

Chloe’s team goes on to explain, “the inner sanctum of the Chloe Gosselin woman is not only physical, but also psychological: shared only with those she deems worthy. We explore her intimate moments spent in the retreat of her boudoir. She wears her shoes as an object of empowerment. In these moments, her Chloe Gosselin shoes are not worn to seduce anyone but herself.”

Indeed, the shoes exude sex appeal, but for a very specific audience.

The designer says: “Every woman who wears these shoes should be wearing them for herself, to make herself feel great.”

She wears her shoes to make herself feel great.

Strong and confident shoes for the strong and confident woman; we couldn’t be more excited for this collection.

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With love,

FWO

Vivienne Tam: The Warming Fire

An expressive, color-rich collection from Vivienne Tam this season reminds us why we’re such huge fans of this brilliantly imaginative designer.

From the first look, Tam’s unerring command of color and pattern was obvious. She is nothing less than a visual master at work: her designs would be at home on the walls of any museum of modern art. If fashion truly is “wearable art,” Tam’s works are the proof.

Her designs would be at home on the walls of any museum of modern art.

The other dominant element, this season, was comfort. From the start of the show, you could sense the little warming touches that were discreetly interlaced into the Fall / Winter 2016 collection. With cozy geometric knits — paired with stretch-metallic midi skirts — the Tam lady is bringing in the season with a bit of 1970s feminine nostalgia with a little added snuggliness.

In an interview before the show, Ms. Vivienne Tam shared with me how inspiration brought her to such a successful collection.

Tam says, “My customers are ‘world girls.’ They love fashion, and at the same time they love culture. They have this sense of the world and they love it. They are aware of what’s happening, not just about fashion.”

An impressive girl to be.

My customers love fashion, and at the same time they love culture.

 
The Collection

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Photos by Dan Lecca

An infusion of carefully curated jacquards matched with boxed knits immediately shows the globe-trotting Tam customer in her element.

The metallics with subdued earthtones showed how playful she can be. The depth in color incorporated a feminine palette of the ’70s — with soft pinks, muddy browns, and olives — marked by expressive bursts of bold red and purple.

My favorite blend of color was the not-so-shocking bubblegum pink mixed with subdued-though-unexpected gray Lurex (which also made an appearance in BCBG this season), which shakes one to the core when you realize just how feminine it all truly is.

Tam carefully grounds the collection with the occasional gray/black palette, but lets her customer live on in the colorways of Eastern travel. On more serious outerwear pieces, Tam introduced bouts of youth and a ’70s flare through trim on the back yoke and sleeves with long Saint Laurent-like fringe.

Tam’s ability to offer boxy silhouettes with feminine appeal shows her strength, not just in experience, but in knowing what falls so well on a woman’s body and what complements the Tam girl: this traveler who stops at nothing. The casualization of jacquard suiting can be seen with their pairing alongside knits and freestanding neckties, to mimic the far-too-proper bow blouse. Clearly, the culotte is not going away, proving to be a comfortable travel bottom, finishing at times with a flare.

Tam’s ability to offer boxy silhouettes with feminine appeal shows her strength.

It wouldn’t be a Tam collection without the bridge between East and West, and she delivered her signature in key silhouettes with rich East Asian prints that carry us on the magical journey Tam describes. Having designed the rich jacquards herself, Tam notes that she toned down the colors from the original source to translate her vision into designs that knows no limitations, but still effectively emits her message to the masses.

To sign off, I asked Vivienne Tam how she felt about inviting the consumer to the fashion shows, and her response would be music to her customer’s ears.

“I love the idea. The world is changing. I like the idea like D to C, designer to consumer … maybe next season we will do something.”

I love the idea of design to consumer.

Until next season.

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With love,

FWO

Knitting Rebellion for Hervé Léger FW16

 
The Hervé Léger brand is one of a kind: the first-ever French couture house to be acquired by an American. (Although that American was France-raised master couturier Max Azria.) One of the most fascinating aspects of Hervé Léger is that the entire line — almost unbelievably — is knitted, not woven.

Our Editor-in-Chief Chris Collie caught up with HL’s ever-beautiful Creative Director Lubov Azria prior to the Fall / Winter runway.

Q: So tell us about the collection this season, and what makes it different from last season’s collection?

Hervé Léger is always associated with glamour, sensuality, being unforgettable — as it should be. This time we wanted to turn it up a little bit. We wanted her to be bold, tough, cool, break the rules. So we started looking to alternative music, punk, hardcore rock: things like that.

Because we wanted to kind of shift the image of Hervé Léger. Instead of being just glamorous, to give it that edge, that coolness.

We started looking to alternative music, punk, hardcore rock.

Q: That sexiness …

 
Yes, always, that sexiness is always there. But in a way that makes you think. There’s a twist to it.

Sexiness in a way that makes you think.

 
A Backstage Look

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Photos: BFA

Q: What about the color palette? What colors stood out to you in terms of what you wanted to coordinate in the collection?

Well, I love the idea of reds. And with the music, the whole idea of like greens and navys, and creams. You know the palette has to stay pretty neutral with a little bit of pops, because again, Hervé Léger is knitted, not woven, so it takes color very differently. So when you knit it up, it already has a kind of texture to it. It’s not a flat color.

It’s cool. This collection has less black, and there are a lot of textures. It’s all about texture and details with this collection.

It’s all about texture and details with this collection.

Q: Now tell our audience at Fashion Week Online something they may not know — but they should know — when they see the collection.

(laughs loudly) Well, let’s put it this way. It’s six months of work. For nine minutes. You really don’t know what’s going to happen. It’s all a hope. And it’s done once. It’s never repeated again.

It’s six months of work. For nine minutes.

Shop here

herveleger.com

 
With love,

FWO

Jill Haber: Fall / Winter 2016

Serendipity strikes (by definition we suppose) when you least expect it. Or maybe it’s just fate. No matter how you look at it, Jill Haber has been on an adventure ever since a boutique owner noticed one of the bags she’d been designing for friends. Now, for Fall / Winter 2016, she’s ready to take her fans on a trip to an enchanted forest.

Q: How did you get your start in fashion?

 
I started out designing handbags privately for myself and some friends. The store manager of an amazing boutique asked my friend whose bag she was wearing, he called me, placed an order and the Jill Haber collection was on its way.

I started out designing handbags privately for myself and some friends.

 
The SS16 Collection

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Q: What are some of your earliest memories related to fashion, and how do you think that influenced you in becoming the designer you are now?

My grandmother was a really chic lady. Her clothing and accessories were nothing short of fabulous. She went to work everyday in either an incredible suit or dress, high heels, and always carried a very structured handbag.

I think she was probably responsible for my early love of fashion … and certainly accessories.

My grandmother’s clothing and accessories were nothing short of fabulous.

Q: What are your influences: from the fashion world and nonfashion
world?

I shop for vintage bags in flea markets and I try to reimagine them for a modern woman.

I love to travel and I take pictures of everything: architecture, people, food, nature. I use all my photos as a huge source of inspiration for a color palette or a general vibe for a collection.

I also look at every woman I see on the street; in a store; restaurant; and look at the bag she’s wearing. I don’t even see faces at this point, I only see handbags!

I don’t even see faces at this point: only handbags!

Q: It seems like the Jill Haber brand is very fun and flirty. What’s the
“mission” behind the brand?

I think handbags should be fun and flirty. No reason why something practical can’t be pretty.

As a woman designer, I am very much in tune with what needs to fit inside my bag. And I know — like myself — no one wants to carry a bag that’s too heavy or too precious.

A Jill Haber handbag isn’t meant to sit in your closet. #LifeisShortWearYourBags

#LifeisShortWearYourBags

 
The FW16 Collection

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Photos: BFA

Q: What type of person buys Jill Haber?

 
She appreciates quality. She’s super confident, trend aware, but not trend driven. She buys what she likes.

Q: What’s the inspiration behind the Fall / Winter 2016 collection?

The enchanted forest. This collection is dedicated to all the fair maidens out there conquering the world.

This collection is dedicated to all the fair maidens out there conquering the world.

Q: What do you see looking ahead, both for the brand and yourself?

I would love to open an intimate boutique here in New York so I can feature the entire collection in a really beautiful space.

For me: a vacation — someplace warm — with no cell reception!

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Shop here

jillhaber.com

 
With love,

FWO

This story is a part of ABC News and Fashion Week Online’s partnership for NYFW FW16.
 

Naeem Khan FW16, Starring Trinity Moran

She walked the runway in a dress she helped design with Naeem Khan. “I really want to be a model,” said Trinity, “and that’s what’s happening right now.”

Interview by ABC News’ Charli James