Knitting Rebellion for Hervé Léger FW16
The Hervé Léger brand is one of a kind: the first-ever French couture house to be acquired by an American. (Although that American was France-raised master couturier Max Azria.) One of the most fascinating aspects of Hervé Léger is that the entire line — almost unbelievably — is knitted, not woven.
Our Editor-in-Chief Chris Collie caught up with HL’s ever-beautiful Creative Director Lubov Azria prior to the Fall / Winter runway.
Q: So tell us about the collection this season, and what makes it different from last season’s collection?
Hervé Léger is always associated with glamour, sensuality, being unforgettable — as it should be. This time we wanted to turn it up a little bit. We wanted her to be bold, tough, cool, break the rules. So we started looking to alternative music, punk, hardcore rock: things like that.
Because we wanted to kind of shift the image of Hervé Léger. Instead of being just glamorous, to give it that edge, that coolness.
We started looking to alternative music, punk, hardcore rock.
Q: That sexiness …
Yes, always, that sexiness is always there. But in a way that makes you think. There’s a twist to it.
Sexiness in a way that makes you think.
A Backstage Look
Q: What about the color palette? What colors stood out to you in terms of what you wanted to coordinate in the collection?
Well, I love the idea of reds. And with the music, the whole idea of like greens and navys, and creams. You know the palette has to stay pretty neutral with a little bit of pops, because again, Hervé Léger is knitted, not woven, so it takes color very differently. So when you knit it up, it already has a kind of texture to it. It’s not a flat color.
It’s cool. This collection has less black, and there are a lot of textures. It’s all about texture and details with this collection.
It’s all about texture and details with this collection.
Q: Now tell our audience at Fashion Week Online something they may not know — but they should know — when they see the collection.
(laughs loudly) Well, let’s put it this way. It’s six months of work. For nine minutes. You really don’t know what’s going to happen. It’s all a hope. And it’s done once. It’s never repeated again.
It’s six months of work. For nine minutes.