Nehera Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by David Giroire.

NEHERA Fall 2018 pre-collection is grounded in the connection of divergent traits. A dialogue between control and spontaneity unearths conservative roots as well as primitive instincts. A composed woman keeps her freedom and fierce spirit by folding up a section of her skirt to reveal its silk lining or daring to wear an open back jumpsuit.

In line with Tadao Ando’s architecture, which lets the presence of nature flow past its concrete walls, the fluidity of a dress is outlined by a frame of geometrical piping. A line of pleats, highlighted by thick thread, subtly brings structure to a drape and even a usually straightforward box pleat turns into an asymmetric overlap.

Nehera: Paris FW18

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A combination of contrasts may create a symbiosis. Thus, an assortment of tree trunk rings creates a fresh camouflage print that melts into nature. In the same way wrapping oneself in a mysterious hooded coat creates a feeling of serenity. Elsewhere, an irregular check echoes through various fabrications emerging in graphic knits and quilted outerwear.

The earthy colour palette branches from a deep forest green to a light clay beige, illuminated by a lustrous rust and a hint of sky blue. The warmth of the autumnal palette is emphasized by the richness of textures in the collection, from a comfortable corduroy to a relaxed terry striped wool,
and a faux-fur.

Juxtaposing different materials occasionally creates a duality of textures. Thereby, a reversible jacket can be shortened by folding up its hem to reveal a contrasting fabric. More unusual mixtures of fabric emerge in an oversized leather and loden jacket or else a felted wool jacket, combined with a shiny fluid viscose. In addition, an asymmetric jacket can be fastened in a classic way or its closure folded back to create versatility. Finally, NEHERA’s essential men’s shirt for this collection has a double opening and a removable panel giving the impression of two different layers.

The NEHERA woman can focus on both her responsibilities and independence. She has established her confident sense of style almost like an inner world for herself. From this confidence a poetic allure and her unique style naturally emerges. Even her usually polished wood accessories are rerooted in
the beauty of rawness.

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Alain Mikli & Alexandre Vauthier Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by BPCM.

Alain Mikli is pleased to announce their 2018 collaboration with French designer Alexandre Vauthier. This evening, models marched down Vauthier’s Haute Couture runway wearing the provocatively unique eyewear. Since Alain Mikli’s launch in 1978, the brand has been synonymous with distinctiveness by aligning with iconic designers and artists. Alexandre Vauthier has made a mark in Haute Couture with his bold aesthetic, naturally making this eyewear collection unambiguously fierce.

 
Alain Mikli & Alexandre Vauthier: Paris FW18

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Drawing inspiration from the Vauthier runway and fashion photographers such as Helmut Newton and Guy Bourdin, the collection delivers the definition of the modern Parisian women. Bold, confident, and sexy these unique designs create glamorous moments reminiscent of 80’s nightlife. The collaboration includes four signature styles; Edwidge, Edwidge jeweled, Roselyne, and Nadége.

Inspired by the Mikli archive, Edwidge and Edwidge jeweled push boundaries with their shallow rectangular design. Roselyn, also inspired by the Mikli archive, is an ultra-feminine oversized frame adorned in Swarovski crystals. Nadége, a bid to Vauthier’s signature use of metallic, with its bold and futuristic design. These signature eyewear styles perfectly embody the Alain Mikli & Alexandre Vauthier woman.

The campaign stars’ fashion’s muse, Kate Moss captured by world renowned photographers Mert & Marcus. The campaign will appear beginning in April 2018 issues.

The collection will be available from April 2018. Pricing available upon request.

@alainmikliparis @alexandrevauthier

“For this collaboration I wanted to create a very distinctive selection of eyewear that felt like a natural extension of my collection and also which complements the confident personalities of the Alexandre Vauthier woman. The women who wear my collections around the world are both sensual and powerful and this collaboration with Alain Mikli was made for these bold and inspiring women. Giampiero understood this perfectly and together we chose these styles that took distinctive details of my couture collection and interpreted them into these varying styles.”

-Alexandre Vauthier

“Working with Alexandre on this unique collection of eyewear has been effortless and fun. Both brands are quintessential Parisian and share the same values and aesthetic. We combined Mikli’s distinctive and provocative approach to design with Vauthier’s powerful vision of a sexy yet sophisticated woman. The fierce styling of both brands exudes strength, power and femininity making this collaboration a perfect fit.”

-Giampiero Tagliaferri, Alain Mikli Creative Director

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Yumi Katsura Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by New Kid.

This season’s haute couture collection revolves around Katsura’s love for the arts and the exuberance they give to their admirers. Working with the prints of globally recognized artists, she gives the masterpieces another life, having created her very own in the same moment.

The prints are gentle and have a resounding feeling of east and west, particularly because of the florals resembling those in an ancient eastern miniature painting and those more romantic iterations found in the western school of the arts. This example shows Katsura’s profound understanding of the arts, (potentially a patron herself) because even the very style and perspective of such a pure symbol, the flower, in art is such a carefully considered detail. Having juxtaposed these two visions in look #2 is not just bold, but transcendent.

 
Yumi Katsura: Paris FW18

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In true Yumi fashion, she continues to test the capabilities of certain fabrics and asks them to give additional dimension, feeling, that is not typically done. The way she drapes and layers really plays on the magic of volume.

This collection can quite simply be described as exuding an old idea of luxury and elegance that is accessible, young and sensual, yet relaxed. More feminine it couldn’t be, considering the carefully selected motifs and the designer’s care for the feminine figure. She knows form so well that it’s impossible not to acknowledge the perfection and balance in each individual extraordinary gown.

She also adorned the models with a vast collection of impressive jewels- hair accessories and extraordinary earrings that can only be described as fascinators for the ears.

I am personally a big fan of volume and unconventional sleeves. Combined, I couldn’t possibly dream of a more beautiful iteration than that of Katsura’s look number 19, a cocktail-length off the shoulder number, donning the famous Japanese painting the Great Wave of Kanagawa by Katsushika Hokusai, which knocks dimension and volume of its socks and takes it a step further considering the texture involved. If it was even possible, it even looks comfortable. The gathers/pleats alone, where the sleeve begins, is an example of great skill.

We always love the Yumi Katsura experience.

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Flora Miranda Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by Totem Fashion.

This collection explores the interspace.
„(…) show the active function of emptiness. Far from being a kind of no-man ́s-land that would imply neutralisation or compromise, emptiness makes possible the process of interiorisation and transformation through which each thing actualises its sameness and otherness and, in so doing, attains totality.“ (Empty and Full, The Language of Chinese Painting, p. 38)

 
Flora Miranda: Paris FW18

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The garment is what lies between the body and the world. The invisible, the air around the body is the space of possibilities for the garment – up to the nearest tangible element.

What is this body-environment made of? With her “Pneuma” collection, Flora Miranda makes this invisible matter, the ambient space, wearable on the human body. The dresses are built in meticulous manual craft. Bodies of fine reflective plastic particles, high precision injected silicone shapes, 3d woven metallic vaporised film and lightweight colour spectrums composed from feathers are set in motion. The shapes of the human body are abstracted and become one with the fleeting, sculptural clothes.

Each garment strikes with its own material qualities. Belgian choreographer Arco Renz explores these features by the explicitly breathing bodies of ten dancers. The presentation is highlighted with a light design by Philippe Rahm Architects: the performance takes place inside of two separate rooms, using hue variation to reflect the contrast between a winter and summer atmosphere. Through the use of warm and cold lighting, two distinct atmospheres create the physical setting of fashion, in the sense of an autumn-winter and spring-summer collection.

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Georges Hobeika Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by Station Service.

Georges Hobeika’s couture collection had resounding vibes of a marvelous golden era, of peak Grecian times. To deliver said message, the designer leveraged the luxury that fabrics like chiffon and silk charmeuse to demonstrate the lightness, purity and delicacy that comes with such a look. The stunning gowns were beautifully created in cascading fabrics ready for the coast of the Aegean Sea, whose colors are well integrated in the collection at large.

 
Georges Hobeika: Paris FFW18

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Definitely a noticeable contrast, the sheer, elegant fabrics contrasted with the heavy stones, embroidery and jewelry which adorned the looks and models. Quite elegantly, in this fashion, the designer mixed the delicate with the decadent.

The patterns and arrangements in which the crystals were placed had a pretty wide range, leading me to believe that he missed grounding each dimension of the collection. It signaling a bit of a weakened vision in this perspective of detail.

To live the vision of the Hobeika woman requires a certain aloofness and elegance — more like Elvira in Scarface. She screams seduction and purity while standing overpoweringly sexy.

The models paraded these luxurious looks while also being overly decked out in jewels from dress to knuckles and ankles. The collection featured quite exciting footwear – seemingly leg stockings with matching encrusted designs to the corresponding dress. I will admit, quite frankly, that it would be a bit too much to wear with the designs. For the show, however, more is more in couture.

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Stéphane Rolland Paris Fashion Week FW18

If architecture is one of the major starting points in his creative process, this season Stéphane Rolland presents a softened allure, lighter and brighter.

Like letting go of a grip, tee shirts turn Into flying sculptures on lamé slim pants. Wrapping themselves around the bust to turn into crinolines made of creased gazar, on some white leather shorts. Tops paired with wide pants made In a summery flannel or jumpsuits made of white crepe emphasize a nonchalant attitude.

 
Stéphane Rolland: Paris FW18

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The magnitude of the movement accentuates simplicity and comfort. Long and oversized coats In platinum lamé or In black wool Illustrate a sort of androgyny.

This season, the spotlight is on crepe satin. On a long dress with a mane-bust, a pearl-grey or caramel tunic, on a sand color scarf-dress, the woman’s silhouette is pushed under the light.

Shades are soft, whitened, sandy, amber toned and embroideries are made out of sculpted silver reflections or foliages and twigs in 3D.
Although, the ultimate luxury Is presented on six exceptional gowns embroidered with Fine Jewellery. They are announcing the beginning of a creative partnership between the jeweller Albert Boghossian and Stéphane Rolland.

Presented in the Favart room of the Opéra Comique, this new season Is offered to the eyes of the widest audience; with the purpose of nurturing the joy of sharing, transmitting the particularity of the movement and the exception Haute Couture represents.

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A.F. Vandevorst Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by Spring London.

This year A.F. Vandevorst celebrates their 20th anniversary. In honour of this, the Haute Couture show for AW18 presents A.F.Vandevorst ALWAYS+FOREVER – a carefully curated selection from the archives. This is not a retrospective, it is a re-imagination. 40 looks, from 40 seasons were considered in a contemporary light; unquestionably wearable today. The looks are in chronological order, starting with the first season and ending with the most recent. Upon reflection, the integrity of A.F. Vandevorst is beautifully apparent in their homogeneous colour scheme, feminine/masculine contrasting, and paradoxical combinations.

 
A.F. Vandevorst: Paris FW18

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ALWAYS+FOREVER embraces A.F. Vandevorst’s recent decision to design without the boundaries of speed – to truly allow for the space and process it takes to create garments that excite us on a profound level, for years to come. The collection reminisces the art- and life- journey embarked on together by the designer duo. In each and every silhouette, both are and were present. The attached white archive tickets, are like emotional passports, representing the memories of their story. A.F. Vandevorst’s anniversary show challenges the industry’s notion that the ‘old’ loses value for the sole reason that it is not new.

The designers’ hommage to traditional rigid military uniform and horse riding wear, consistently styled with soft volume, showcases the captivating marriage between lines and curves. This returns with tough nailed blazers and soft plissé soleil dresses. The extravagant thigh high boots remind us of the duo’s great love for grand foot wear, whilst the typical A.F.Vandevorst layering, present in all looks, is metaphorical of their dedication to depth. The t-shirt capsule is a collaboration with famed fashion activist B. Akerlund, bringing the perfect modern undertone, subtly visible beneath the A.F.Vandevorst classics. A.F.Vandevorst’s memorable red cross emblem naturally appears, as do their hospital references. More A.F.Vandevorst iconics include the AW98/99 saddle corset, SS01 leather waistcoat, and AW9/10 felt trench.

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Valentino Spring 2018 Haute Couture Collection

By Rachel Neuman, Designer of C’est Moi Clothing

Hitting the runways and the red carpets this spring are a surge of modestly relatable looks intriguing women around the world. Valentino’s Spring 2018 Haute Couture Collection has been my favorite show in Paris Fashion Week so far. In my mind, these gorgeous long-skirted and dress looks can be an inspiration to women at just how appealing modest fashion can be. These looks will be at the top of my #ootd list for inspiration all season long.

Here’s how to style these at home with pieces we all have in our closets:

Not courageous enough to try a bold print? Start with a more subtle design to break you out of your comfort zone. This shimmery dress lends an air of sophistication while embodying whimsical youthfulness in its appearance.

Start with a more subtle design

Want to keep to replicate this look with a modest demure? Line a sheer article of clothing with a nude color camisole, under shirt, or turtleneck on a colder day! You’ll feel great without drawing any unwanted attention. A similar-cut top can also be tucked into a belted black skirt for a unique-but-chic take on a black outfit.

Although seemingly flamboyant, this look can be so easily recreated for a night out! How about that bold silk scarf that you have somewhere in your closet? Fashion it into a (albeit smaller) bow, throw a sweater over a slip dress (be fierce on color, too), and you are officially set to make the street your runway!

I absolutely love the color mix in this look! Valentino nailed this perfect example of how to go bold, keeping elements in the wardrobe consistent — as achieved here by keeping the print the same. Stunning.

High fashion, to many working women, is a daunting and seemingly overwhelming task (understandably so). However, I think Valentino taught us here that modest fashion can have a cutting edge look, styled with many different basics cohesively together.

Valentino taught us that modest fashion can have a cutting-edge look

With essential pieces of all different colors, it is a great opportunity to be inspired, and to add a little bit of life back into your office and everyday wardrobe. It’s definitely time to disassociate modest fashion with archaic fashion, and explore the endless possibilities for you #ootd.

XO, Rachel Neuman

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For more information on C’est Moi Clothing, visit www.cestmoi.nyc.

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FWO

Yuima Nakazato Paris Fashion Week FW18

Represented by Totem Fashion.

Through our mindful thoughts and daily inspirations we arrived at a symbolic word, HARMONIZE. The word illustrates the state in which two very different entities, the human body and garment, continue to develop while complementing each other. This delicate balance, a harmony of entities themselves, is the way YUIMA NAKAZATO envisions as the future of mankind and clothing.

 
Yuima Nakazato: PFW FW18

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In order to evoke such vision of future, our focus and attention was drawn to one thing: outer space. Throughout time mankind have dreamed of a world beyond their own. Symbolized by the Armstrong’s marking of humans’ first footprints on the moon and Kubrick’s 2001: A Space Odyssey, the 1960s was a time when humans had grown in enthusiasm and adoration for the universe above them. Space was yet a subject of unreachable aspiration far far away from us that time. More than half a century has passed since then, and with the endless advancement of technology reaching out beyond our world is no longer a dream.
It is our reality.

Eventually, there will be a time where humans live a life outside the confines of this Earth. How we dress ourselves will be how we represent humans in space. The future of fashion is the future of us, humans. We, at YUIMA NAKAZATO, believe that the clothes should always be beautiful no matter how harsh their surrounding environments or circumstances may be.

Unit Constructed Textile is a unique idea and technology that we have been developing over the last few years, exploring the possibility of more sustainable fashion. Upon its research, it became clear that the principle philosophy of our technique was in common with that of many other methods found in various fields from Japanese traditional custom of mending ragged textiles (‘Boro’) to the exterior structure of spaceships. A conversation with the spacesuit research team at Japan Aerospace Exploration Agency gave us vital inspiration as we learnt the importance of having various recyclable system in order to sustain a long-term stay with limited resources in space.

Taking our research and development into consideration, for this collection we sourced disposed industrial products originally designed to protect humans such as airbags and parachutes from around the world. By dismantling and reassembling through digital fabrication and craftsmanship, we were able to repurpose these discarded products into an innovative and viable material.

Through this process, we succeeded in developing a new and unique manufacturing system that would allow us to make partial updates to garment time to time in response to changing environments and wearer’s body shape, significantly extending the lifespan of the item to semi-permanent. With this system, clothing can truly harmonize with each wearer and adapt to the world the they live in.

“That’s one small step for man, one giant leap for mankind.’’
Armstrong’s words never left our minds throughout the creative process. We put together this collection with the hope of expanding the possibilities of mankind, even if it is a small step. These are the garments designed for pioneers who dare venture into the new age. This collection is our message to the future.

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