Malan Breton London Fashion Week FW19

After his FW2018 collection which was showcased in New York, Malan Breton returned to the global stage, that is London Fashion Week, with his SS19 collection “Show Girl”.

His late theatrical collection was an ode to the glamour wear and power dressing.

This time, he was inspired by the Ziegfeld Follies and tales of his grandmother’s days as a showgirl and opera singer, Malan Breton’s new work highlights the glamor of traditional showbiz. The Ziegfeld Follies was a series of elaborate theatrical revue productions on Broadway from 1907 to 1931.

 
Malan Breton: London FW19

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It all started with a perfect tailored, yellow metallic tuxedo with feathers on the sleeves. Bold trench coats with big bows, sequined maxi and leather corset dresses, feathers, rails of tulle, hand-beading and embroidery followed. The woman that Breton had on his mind while making this collection, has to be shown and she has to be seen.

A subtle revival of bold tailoring brings seventies influence to bear on Breton’s menswear. Charming prints in hues of blue and powder pink twinkle with unapologetic metallics. Malan’s Taiwanese origin stands as the collection’s foundation stitching East to West with powerful embossed brocade.

We loved his fresh approach to couture fashion. Proving once more that he is one of the greatest showmen, Malan Breton marries personal performative history to the sharp lines and tailored specificity of his designs.

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FWO

Cassey Gan London Fashion Week FW19

I met Cassey Gan’s fashion through the Not Just A Label platform, and even though it is claimed that she is the “black sheep” of the contemporary fashion, I like the colour black and I definitely like Cassey’s work.

This collection was no exception.

So, on the second day of London Fashion Week, I attended the Gan’s show at the Fashion Scout. Although I very much like the prestige of Freemasons Hall, I think that would be many other better options, more suitable for the label to present the SS19 collection. Nevertheless, the Malaysian label celebrated individuality with clothes that are unique, heavy printed and unpredictable.

 
Cassey Gan: London FW19

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In an ongoing dialogue with the art world, the new collection was inspired by David Hockney — a pioneer of the British art movement through his vibrant and intimate portraits. Cassey Gan’s silhouettes are constructed with flowing structure and oversized shape.

The offbeat style is continued through the collection with print blocking which meticulously meld together like a puzzle with considered elements including detachable layers. Every piece in the collection can be paired with one another — a pallet of staple pieces creating a functional, relaxed and flamboyant wardrobe.

Cassey Gan’s innate experimental nature is evident in this season’s printing on different weights of cotton derived from Thailand. Cassey states ‘“Change is the only constant” Seasons, life and everything around us change all the time. As a result, we have to adapt and change accordingly. Bringing this into our designs, it is important for us to constantly evolve and constantly explore different techniques and materials to create something fresh every season. Innovation is key.”

Being innovative is one thing that makes a good designer, and another one is to be different and qualified. Cassey has all three, but there is something more about her. As she once stated: “[..]Coming from the far east and living in the west have resulted in my work being influenced by the juxtaposition of both.[..]”.

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Jiri Kalfar London Fashion Week FW19

Represented by Dyelog.

Experience the legendary 1970s with Studio 54.

The music, the cinema, the stars; Brigitte Bardot, Diana Ross, David Bowie, the cities and the suburbs, the clubs, the poets, the pop-art, the underground but above all, the freedom and the expectation of change.

 
Jiri Kalfar: London FW19

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Aesthetically, glamour and luxury, have always been at the heart of JIRI KALFAR. The SS19 collection, filled with revisited 70’s silhouettes, glamorous dresses, trousers, skirts and tops made from sequins, silk, embroidery, hand woven wool, viscose and more, is no exception.

Though inspiration comes from the past, the main focus during the process was the future of our planet and its ecology. For this reason the brand has concentrated on zero waste patterns, recycled sequins and upcycled clothing.

Each piece has been handmade in the Czech Republic without the use of any fur or leather, by a team of seamstresses.
Combining new technological and sustainable materials such as muskin (mushroom leather) with hand-embroidery ensures that you can wear luxury, animal cruelty free, zero waste, fashion.

Because the real luxury nowadays is consciousness.

NEW THIS SEASON
Jiri Kalfar by Oldrich Voyta

For the first time JIRI KALFAR will introduce a new line of eco-friendly and sustainable (made of corn and wood), leather-free shoes. In collaboration with Czech designer Oldrich Voyta the shoes have been produced using 3D printers and a combination of semi-couture top layers.

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FWO

Paula Knorr London Fashion Week FW19

Represented by SPRING London.

In order to evoke the essence of comfortable, yet sensual, dressing, Paula Knorr’s SS19 collection plays with the contrast between volume and fitted silhouettes.

Through this exploration of extremes, Knorr reveals obscured shapes, together with figure-hugging silhouettes. Body-con one-sleeved ruffled styles are set in contrast to oversized cape-like contours and fluid feminine pieces which highlight Knorr’s signature cutting techniques.

 
Paula Knorr: London FW19

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Fabrics include soft viscose crepe, light stretched cotton and shiny metallic lamé. Soft jersey gowns and light cotton tunics are fused with bold, Swarovski crystal embroidered mini-dresses and voluminous trousers. Illusion tulle is printed with glittery clouds to create translucent textures.

The colour palette combines soft pastel and crème tones with warm pink, oranges and steel blue. Transparent sequins and soft lamé fabrics are interwoven with light cottons to introduce a summery feel to the evening-focussed collection.

Multicolour Swarovski crystal banding is embroidered on draped shift dresses, creating a fringe like movement at the hem. The Swarovski crystals trace and accentuate the natural body lines, creating an illusion of movement.

Alongside ready-to-wear, Knorr has also collaborated with design duo RÄTHEL&WOLF to create statement jewellery featuring SWAROVSKI crystals in new ways; the minimal and bold language of the jewellery elevates the collection by contrasting with Knorr’s signature fluid shapes.

Credits

Styling / Kim Howells
Casting / Paul Isaac
Make up / Lottie for BEAUTYBLENDER
Hair / Bea Watson for AVEDA
Jewellery / Räthel&Wolf
Music / Dj Henri
Shoes / TOPSHOP
PR / SPRING London
Photography / Zoe Lower
Production / BLONSTEIN

A Special Thanks to:
The British Fashion Council and the NEWGEN Panel,
Phillip Bodenham, Michelle Ewin, Tilly Prowse
and all the team at SPRING London.
Barbara Grispini, Alessio Cervo
and all the team at D/ARK.
Rainer Schwaiger and Patricia Burgholzer and
all the team at SIBUDESIGN for the beautiful mirrored set.
Caroline Adams and Charley Baxter at TOPSHOP.
Lotte Knorr and Jason Chan for setting up and designing the set.
Una Curran, Melissandre Despax, Julianne Courtois,
Chenee Tabayoyong, Marie Fuchs and
Carla Tejedor Profitosfor all their energy.
Jennifer Koch and Daniel Fraser for the non stop help.

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FWO

UNDERAGE London Fashion Week FW19

Represented by MAY Concepts.

Inspired by the ‘Club Kid’ era that flourished during the late 80s and early 90s, the UNDERAGE SS19 collectionis a nod to absurdity and transformation.

It celebrates a much-loved culture that is currently repeating itself within the youth psyche and makes it relevant by mixing these iconic ideals with modern casualwear.

The collection is titled ‘Lucid Dreams’ in which there is a psychedelic and vibrant undertone to each look, yet the garments have a pop sensibility. Quiet sexual images can be discovered within the prints and bold colours, they have been subtly placed there to encourage the wearers to embrace their inner desires and set themselves free.

 
UNDERAGE: London FW19

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Credit: Olivier Claisse

The Lucid Dream that UNDERAGE envisions is one where members of society are prisoners to their own notions of identity and much of the collection is based on Erik Erikson’s ‘Four stages of the identity crisis’.

While distressed denim may be ubiquitous, the collection approaches the fabric in a new manner. Denim mixed with shirting and tailored fabrics, embroidery and bright colours inspires new possibilities in the distressed denim trend. With new ways of manipulating fabrics, UNDERAGE are considering if the future of fashion can enhance consumer’s liberation from identity categorisation imposed on them, by themselves.

Empowering womenswear with an androgynous feel, ‘transformation’ is an important word to UNDERAGE this season, not only because of the collection’s desire to disrupt the conventional way that women feel in clothes but also for the way that the collection deconstructs day-wear and recreates it again with an aspect of it completely reimagined.

MATERIALS

Distressed denim, traditional tailoring fabrics including wool & cotton and sportswear inspired polyester.

COLOURS

Denim blue, yellow, green, floral patterns and bursts of random vivid neon colours.

ABOUT THE BRAND AND DESIGNER

UNDERAGE is a British contemporary womenswear brand with Asian roots that plays on irony and the romanticism born from the merging of both cultures. The brand celebrates the unconventionally fearless woman while also having unisex sensibilities. While avant-garde in nature, UNDERAGE continues to move in a more commercial direction.

Ying Shen is the head designer, born in Beijing China, she initially studied graphic design and focused on multiple disciplines including: film, animation and 3D modelling, before coming to London to pursue fashion. She soon enlisted at Central Saint Martin’s School of Art & Design where she honed her various design skills into garment design and construction, whilst also gaining a specific interest in dying and printing textiles.

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FWO