Icollect as one might gather stamps, yet without the comfort of sequence or theme.
Objects arrive as if summoned from different centuries: a sleeve once folded in a grandmother’s wardrobe, a fragment of silk that once brushed another life, a button rescued from a market thick with dust.
Each garment carries the ghost of a peak—an evening when it stood at the center of someone’s story—only to end, years later, abandoned in an antique shop, its drama reduced to quiet fabric and fading scent.
They do not form a lineage but a constellation: things without belonging that, through their silent proximity, begin to recognise one another.
It is compelling to work with memories that are not mine, to borrow the afterimage of another life and feel it settle.
Vautrait
To assemble them is not to impose design, but to offer a stage where these dust-covered presences can appear, each pointing to the other without urgency, each revealing the fragile thread of their encounter.
In this slow theatre of return, the notion of the new dissolves; what once was celebrated and what was forgotten share the same light.
Here, beginnings arrive disguised as remnants, and what we call fashion becomes less a chase of novelty than a patient listening—an opening for time itself to speak.
A pulsing “♥”: at once a symbol of love and vitality, each beat marks out a unique being – life force crystalized into form.
For Spring/Summer 2026, Kunihiko Morinaga honors the power of art to transcend boundaries through a collaboration with HERALBONY[1], a creative company based in Tokyo, Paris, and Morioka, empowering artists with disabilities to thrive and reframe perception.
Drawing on the passion and sincerity these creatives bring to their practice, the collection celebrates openness to new perspectives as eighteen artists contribute heartfelt works. Garments transform into canvases alive with boundless land-scapes, intimate impressions of deeply personal inner worlds. Patterned with prints produced by KYOCERA’s sustainable textile printer FOREARTH[2], each piece emerges as a spontaneous act of creation and a singular visualization of being.
Anrealage
Clothes burst with emotion as their motifs and shapes stir into life, an extraordinary, whimsical eruption of wired flounces that recall baroque and psychedelic primitive organisms. A dress swells like a heart, while hems of voluminous skirts, jackets and capes undulate as if alive, each a distinct entity. Accessories extend the vision: feline-shaped handbags with metronomic tails, developed with robotics startup Yukai Engineering Inc., inspired by the robotics product Qoobo, recall the soothing embrace of a purring cat.
Continuing last season’s collaboration with Thomas Bangalter, the soundtrack ̶ created with HERALBONY ̶ layers the rhythm of a heartbeat against quotidian ‘noises’ made by people with disabilities. The organic, evocative soundtrack underscores what it means to be human in an age increasingly shaped by AI and technology.
Building on the ethos of his Anrealage label, Morinaga uses clothing to probe the frontiers of perception: how each being experiences its environment in unique ways. Two parallel worlds, two different visions; how we see, and how others see. The viewer is invited to ask why we perceive different landscapes from the same place. Where does the boundary lie, and what is revealed when it is crossed? Fashion thus becomes a vessel for the heartbeat, honoring the beauty of difference as the purest celebration of life and resilience.
[1] HERALBONY is a creative company redefining culture through art by challenging preconceptions of disability. Managing the art licenses of over 250 artists with intellectual disabilities worldwide, it ensures fair royalties while empowering creators and helping brands communicate on diversity and inclusion.
Founded in Japan, the company expanded globally in 2024 with HERALBONY EUROPE, based at Station F in Paris. Its pioneering work has earned international recognition, including a 2024 LVMH Innovation Award (Employee Experience, Diversity & Inclusion) and a Gold Lion (Glass: The Lion for Change) at the 2025 Cannes Lions International Festival of Creativity. Through co-creation with leading organizations, HERALBONY continues to build a global platform that connects artists with disabilities and society, harnessing art’s power to reframe perceptions and open new cultural possibilities.
[2] As FOREARTH reduces water usage in textile printing to near zero, it eliminates the need for separate facilities for conventional preand post-treatment processes such as steaming and washing, thereby cutting energy consumption and CO₂ emissions significantly. At the same time, it preserves the natural softness of key fabrics widely used in the textile and apparel industries, while enabling high-definition printing on a broad range of materials including cotton, silk, polyester, nylon, and blended fabrics.
Discover DZHUS’ “ANTICON” phantasmagoria materialised at the one-of-a-kind CONCEPT_11 space. The project speculates on the humanity’s ‘Utopia codes’ generated to program happiness.
Deciphering her own intimate trauma, Irina Dzhus saturates this cathartic collection with narratives of sociocultural conformism. Convinced that frustration grows on expectations, the Ukrainian designer ironises about the conventional symbolism throughout the entire history of mankind.
Dzhus
“ANTICON” SHOT FILM WAS PREMIERED IN BERLIN ON AUGUST 23, 2025!
Irina Dzhus points out to a correlation between a desire for self-discovery and the urge for homecoming – and suggests navigation to a subjective idyll via randomised semantic references. DZHUS desaturates the spectrum, replacing colours with abbreviations. Social self-consumerism is traced to gastronomic sacraments and reflected in the ‘autophagia’ concept. Stoicism and self-sufficiency are cultivated through the ‘object=subject’ metaphor behind the multipurpose clothing. Homeware objects obtain wearability. Jewelled pockets commemorate Holocaust, a maze motif is a Sinai nostalgia, and the rainbow lining celebrates an introspection. Irina Dzhus caricatures the quasi-cultural dualism towards animals: from ‘food’ to ‘pet heaven‘. A manifestation of abstract symbolism, “ANTICON” carries a thought-provoking mission.
The “ANTICON” performance conquered catwalks in Berlin, Brussels, Prague, and Warsaw with a metamodernist version of the Last Supper mystery. The metaphorical, semi-interactive act evokes a sensation of a spiritual initiation as Irina Dzhus presents her innovative multipurpose designs.
The Berlin Fashion Week show also marked Irina Dzhus’ international poetic debut as she accompanied the catwalk with her intricate and sharply intimate multilingual verses.
The film premiere took place in Berlin, at the VOLIA Ukrainian art festival on August 23.
A brand with a Ukrainian soul, DZHUS considers its duty to support its countrymen in this challenging time. The collection was produced by Ukrainian craftswomen whilst Hennadii Biliaiev from Kharkiv composed the soundtrack, accompanying Irina Dzhus’ poetry.
The general partner of the campaign is CHOICE Ukraine, a leading sustainable manufacturer of natural care products for health, beauty, and home. OTOTO Art Foundation has provided organisational support.
PHOTO & VIDEO CREDITS
Brand: DZHUS @dzhus.conceptual.wear
Location: Concept_11 @concept_11_warsaw
Direction, poetry, styling, photo editing: Irina Dzhus @irina.dzhus
Sound design: Hennadii Biliaiev @man_without_one
Campaign photography: Marta Chudek @martachudek
Lookbook photography: Maria Salivonova @salivon_ph
Video: Yuliya Simutkina @sssimutkina
Styling assistance: Mariia Horbenko @mariia_horbenko
Makeup & hair: Karolina Żukowska @flying.brushes, Marta Kozłowska
@martakozlowska_makeup, Agata Kowalska @agatakowalska_makeuplover, Sveta Safronovskaya @sveta_saf_beauty
Technical production: Sviatoslav Mykhailov @mhlvsv, Gianluca Pica @notgianlu, Filip Kurczyński @filipkurczynski, Wojtek Nurzyński @wojteknurzynski, Oleh Shypkov @olegshypkov, Maciej Kowalewski @maciek_kowalewski
Backstage photography: Tina Zaborowska @ztinavl
Models & actors: Marta Gac @gacwoman, Adriana @_adrianqa_, Kolas Vodonovsky @vodonovsky, Yuri Vedenyapin @yurivedenyapin, Kate Artman @katesmile2121, Yeva Batriak @rosyands, Agnes Samuel @agnessitta, Barbara Dmowska @kosmiczna_trumna, Rita Jako @rita_jako @ Gaga Models, Denis Novikov @deonij, Lena Shtyk @lenashtyk, Ania Kos @ania.e.kos
Soft furniture: NOOM @noomhome
General partner: CHOICE Ukraine @brands_by_choice
Organisational support: OTOTO Art Foundation @ototo.art.foundation
Film premiere partner: Hotel Continental – Art Space in Exile, Berlin @artspaceinexile
As Fashion Week pulses with creativity and reinvention, I had the honor of speaking with Federico Marchetti, digital luxury pioneer and author of The Geek of Chic: An American Dream, Italian Style.
Released to coincide with September’s New York Fashion Week, Marchetti’s memoir is more than a personal journey; it’s a manifesto for visionary entrepreneurship, blending tech innovation with Italian elegance and craftsmanship.
In our conversation, Marchetti reflects on pivotal moments, his humanistic approach to business, and his current role as advisor to King Charles III on regenerative fashion and sustainability. The Geek of Chic offers not just a story of success, but a blueprint for a new generation of entrepreneurs seeking to merge AI, creativity, and purpose.
In the ever-evolving world of fashion, few figures have bridged the gap between technology and aesthetics as gracefully as Federico Marchetti. The founder of YOOX and architect of its merger with Net-a-Porter, Marchetti transformed the luxury retail landscape—and now, with his memoir, he offers a rare glimpse into the emotional and intellectual journey behind the disruption.
“I was that curious boy who sold Mickey Mouse comics on the beach and dreamed of faraway skylines,” Marchetti recalls.
Photo: Credits Yuma Martellanz
Born in Ravenna, a city steeped in Byzantine mosaics and artisanal heritage, he grew up with a reverence for beauty and craftsmanship. Yet it was the American ethos of ambition—homed in New York and Silicon Valley—that taught him how to turn vision into execution.
“My identity has always lived at the intersection of emotion and logic, of creativity and discipline.” He remarks.
Launching YOOX in 2000 was a leap into the unknown.
“The idea of buying luxury fashion online was almost science fiction,” he says.
Italy had the designers, but not the digital mindset. Marchetti had to build trust with skeptical brands, invent infrastructure, and prove that e-commerce could elevate—not dilute—the mystique of luxury.
“I overcame it by mixing American pragmatism with Italian flair, and by being obsessively focused on both beauty and performance.” The author points out.
His encounters with global icons like Bill Gates, Jeff Bezos, and Anna Wintour offered lessons in leadership and innovation.
“Meeting Bezos reminded me that true innovation requires both vision and relentless execution,” he reflects.
Yet it was Wintour’s “razor-sharp clarity on brand identity” that taught him the elegance of strategic restraint. Marchetti notes.
One of the most poetic threads in Marchetti’s story is his friendship with filmmaker Luca Guadagnino. Their collaboration on Marchetti’s Lake Como home, a restored silk mill, became a meditation on space and emotion.
“Working with Luca reminded me that emotion is architecture… every object, like every scene in his films, can carry memory, intention, and magic.” He comments.
Today, Marchetti is not only a board member at Armani but also Chairman of the Fashion Task Force within King Charles III’s Sustainable Markets Initiative. His vision for the future is clear:
“Luxury can and must lead the sustainability transition; not despite its exclusivity, but because of it.”
He champions regenerative fashion, blockchain traceability, and AI-enhanced supply chains—all in service of ethical beauty.
The Memoir Behind the Movement
The Geek of Chic: An American Dream, Italian Style is Federico Marchetti’s bold and poetic memoir—a manifesto for a new kind of entrepreneurship. With a foreword by Giorgio Armani, the book chronicles Marchetti’s rise from a small-town dreamer to a global innovator who redefined luxury for the digital age.
Set across Milan, Lake Como, New York, and Dubai, the memoir blends personal reflection with strategic insight. It explores how Marchetti merged American digital ambition with Italian craftsmanship, and how his vision continues to shape the future of fashion through sustainability, technology, and emotional design.
Whether you’re a fashion insider, a tech dreamer, or a creative entrepreneur, The Geek of Chic offers more than inspiration—it’s a blueprint for building beauty with purpose.
Credits: David Needleman
For the next generation of fashion entrepreneurs, Marchetti offers a challenge and a promise:
“We need a new Renaissance, one where algorithms and art walk hand in hand… The brands that will thrive are those that can program a platform while writing a poem.”
His advice to disruptors?
“Trust your instinct, but don’t fall in love with your first idea. Be prepared to rewrite the rules—but write them beautifully.”
Forget runway idealism! This year’s graduate show by eleven Royal Danish Academy graduates, brings together a new wave of talent from nine different countries, each using fashion as a tool to question — and reimagine — who we are, who we design for, and how we work, when the planet is in crisis.
Each collection is designed for people: complex, contradicting, authentic people and communities. The work deep dives into subcultures, identity politics, and shared lived experiences. They are not just designing around their audience — but with them in mind. It’s not about theory; it’s about making connections.
And while the silhouettes are fresh and future-facing, they carry the weight of heritage. Exploring craft techniques passed down through generations, queer and cultural histories folded into fabric, statements on class, taste, and power stitched into the seams. It’s fashion as autobiographies, voices of protests and offerings.
Radically inclusive, and unapologetically real
Fashion is changing, and the graduates aren’t waiting for permission — they’ve already started rewriting the rules. They don’t want to just make clothes. They want to start a movement.
Royal Danish Academy
Photos: James Cochrane
Their collective work stretches across continents, touch on diverse identi-ties, and build on multiple cultural perspectives. The eleven graduating designers from the Royal Danish Academy’s Fashion, Fashion, Clothing and Textiles – New Landscapes for Change, are taking stock of the past, preserving only the best parts, and creating a new, radically inclusive, and unapologetically real fashion future.
This year’s graduate show brings together a new wave of talent from nine different countries, each using fashion as a tool to question — and reimagine — who we are, who we design for, and how we work, when the planet is in crisis.
The graduates’ collections want to start a conversation. Two days after the runway, the designers are inviting the public into their world with a documentary screening at Autopoul Vinbar. Expect behind-the-scenes footage, honest reflections, and a raw, rare look into what it really takes to make meaningful fashion today.
The Royal Danish Academy, Class of 2025:
In order of Runway appearance
Leonie Winterhalter
Maria Çlara Pontes Leca
Jan-Niklas Jessen
Anya Belitskaya
Brigitta Timea Szekernyés
Mengjie Hui
Sofia Adell Parramon
Niels Frederik K. Petersen
Sofia Munk
Polina Feddersen
Clémentine Ollivier
Collection showcased during Copenhagen Fashion Week
Graduate collection by @royaldanishacademy_mafashion
showcased during @cphfw
Location: Politikens Hus Casting: KKH Management @kkhmanagement Showcaller: Marikka Lærke Pieterson @prinsesselalalaa Videographer: Aske Just @justlugonja Photographer: Simon Contreras Iori @sise_contrerasiori Backstage Photographers: Maja Maria Aaby @majamariaaaby, Sarah Fals Henríquez @sarahfalshenriquez Makeup Artist: Jenny Jansson using Kess Berlin @jenny_jansson @kessberlin Hair Stylist: Marianne Jensen @mariannejensenhair, Kao Nordic Guest Management: NAT Studio CPH @natstudio_cph Visual Communication: Viola Moth @viola.moth Music Artist: Divad Yaya @divad_yaya Funded by: Tuborg Fundet @tuborgfondet, MFK Almene Fond, Det Kongelige Akademi @kglakademi Sponsored by: @pometaldesign, h.u.g. bageri @h.u.g.bageri, @oakberry.nordic, Goldwell Nordic @goldwellnordic, Kess Berlin @kessberlin
This September, during Fashion Week in London, will once again ignite with bold creativity and global talent as House of iKons returns with its powerhouse platform for rising and established fashion visionaries. Taking place on Saturday 20th September 2025 at the Leonardo Royal Tower Bridge London Hotel, the show promises an immersive celebration of fashion, culture, and empowerment.
House of Ikons
Photos: Josh Rosales Photography, Cashino NDT, Johnny Jones, PixbyGG, Chris Rudio , Tony Hawthorne, Mariana MA
Now in its 11th year, House of iKons continues to spotlight designers from around the world — from sustainable fashion pioneers and tech-driven couture to culturally rich aesthetics and boundary-breaking silhouettes. This season will deliver not only high fashion, but wearable art and powerful storytelling from voices often underrepresented in the industry. The runway becomes more than a stage — it becomes a movement.
Founded in 2014, House of iKons is known for discovering untapped talent and propelling them to global recognition. Even during the pandemic, the brand maintained its momentum with a digital showcase in 2020 that reached over 180 countries. Worn by celebrities and featured on red carpets, iKons designers continue to disrupt with bold, inclusive creativity.
Just a few highlights from the designer line-up — with much more to be unveiled on the runway.
MALONGWENA PRIDE by DME returns with bold, culturally inspired designs. Created by Daisy Mariano Esguerra, Mrs. Universe England UK 2025, her collection blends heritage and elegance ahead of the Mrs. Universe coronation this October in Manila.
Clara Creations is led by Clara Ribad Beronilla, a proud Filipina and former overseas worker whose designs reflect resilience and heartfelt craftsmanship — debuting a dream 30 years in the making.
Cool Kimono Crafts by Marjorie Kobayashi transforms vintage Japanese kimonos into sustainable, cross-cultural masterpieces. Based in Japan, she blends Filipino silhouettes with traditional Japanese textiles in timeless, one-of-a-kind creations.
Emily Sy returns with her signature blend of elegance and empowerment. Her intricate detailing and graceful silhouettes have earned her a global following and a legacy of mentoring emerging talent.
Marjorie Renner brings bold sophistication to the runway with luxurious silhouettes that celebrate feminine strength, merging classic couture with modern edge.
Sierra Zurich is a contemporary label redefining minimalism. Known for sharp lines and refined craftsmanship, each piece is a statement in confident simplicity.
Level Up Designs by India Anderson celebrates individuality through vibrant prints, daring cuts, and urban couture. Her designs empower wearers to stand tall and express fearlessly.
RasaNari by Radika offers a soulful fusion of Indian tradition and contemporary elegance, honouring the divine feminine through rich textiles and flowing silhouettes.
Chelo Valencia, British designer and Amaya for Africa Ambassador, presents a sustainable denim collection rooted in bold creativity and eco-conscious design. Her work with Estilo de Amor brings passion and purpose to the Autumn 2025 show.
A Night to Remember
Held during one of the most exciting weeks in the global fashion calendar, House of iKons Fashion Week London is a must-attend event for industry leaders, celebrities, influencers, and fashion enthusiasts alike. This season promises immersive experiences, breathtaking collections, and unforgettable moments that capture the essence of creativity and artistry.
House of iKons is not just a fashion show—it’s a celebration of dreams, innovation, and the limitless possibilities of what fashion can achieve. Save the date: September 20th, 2025, and join the revolution.
The event is Sponsored by: MadeUpbySamuel & The Fashion Life Tour
Segment ONE 1.00pm
Grand Opening: MALONGWENA PRIDE BY DME
Archie Brown represented by The Fashion Life Tour
Estilo de Amor presents Chelo Valencia
CLC Couture (children)
Clara Creations
The Beauty Athlete
Segment Two Show: 3.00pm
GRAND OPENING: Majorie Kobayashi
Christopher Alexander represented by The Fashion Life Tour
Endless by Adrianna
Daniel Gram represented by The Fashion Life Tour
CLC Couture
Elon’Son represented by The Fashion Life Tour
Sierra Zurich
GRAND FINALE: Lynette Couture London
Segment Three Show: 6.00pm
GRAND OPENING: Emily Sy
Grayson B Apparel represented by The Fashion Life Tour
RasaNari
Hafanana represented by The Fashion Life Tour
Has Handicraft
Level Up Designs by India Anderson
Maria Mauro
SAVVI Kids represented by The Fashion Life Tour
GRAND FINALE: Renner Fashion House by Majorie Renner
The 17th edition of Feeric Fashion Week, a prestigious event on the East European fashion calendar, officially concluded last week in Sibiu, showcasing an array of stunning presentations held in unconventional venues.
This year’s theme revolved around pressing contemporary issues, including sustainability, collective memory, responsibility and visual research, setting the stage for an inspiring dialogue between past and future within the fashion industry. Feeric Fashion Week successfully culminated last Saturday evening following a final day of breathtaking presentations that transformed Sibiu once more into a global fashion stage. The concluding day brought together emerging designers alongside prestigious academic institutions, offering spectators a visual marathon that traversed unexpected spaces and contrasting aesthetic paradigms.
Michał Duraj, Andrada Negru, and Blanka Gotic were the winners of free study awards in the IED – Istituto Europeo di Design competition, while the list of talented graduates such as Wilczewska Emilia, Olivia Kobeissi, Ioulia Louvari, Almog Pinto Cohen, Coralia Dubou, Akvilė Bernotaitė, and Kaylee Johnson was complemented by the academic section of the festival, which highlighted universities from Romania and abroad: University of Arts and Design Cluj-Napoca, Ukrainian Fashion Education Group, National University of Arts Bucharest, Newgiza University Egypt, SAPU Fashion School Krakow, West University of Timișoara, New Bulgarian University, George Enescu University of Iași, Donja Gorica University powered by Arizona State University, University of Oradea, IDA- International Design Academy & IFM Academy, “Aurel Vlaicu” University of Arad, The Eugeniusz Geppert Academy of Art and Design in Wroclaw, Galala University Egypt, National Academy of Art Sofia, Notre Dame University-Louaize Lebanon, Viamoda Poland, Technical University of Moldova, Faculty of Textile Technology Zagreb, University of Haifa Israel, North Macedonia-International Balkan University, Kaunas University of Applied Sciences Lithuania, AthensFashionClub School. The presented projects demonstrated that artistic education and visual research play an essential role in reshaping the future of the fashion industry.
The first day of Feeric Fashion Week opened with a striking visual manifesto titled “Timeless Threads” by Hooldra, marking the fifth initiative under the Feeric Hub banner. This innovative collection exemplified how creativity and responsibility can coalesce to create exceptional pieces derived from the deconstruction and regeneration of second-hand clothing. Drawing inspiration from the aesthetics of the 1960s and featuring contributions from emerging designers throughout Europe, the presentation served as a powerful tribute to ethical fashion and sustainable practices. The set design featured newly implemented textile waste collection bins specific to Sibiu County, alongside an impressive display of over 3,000 kilograms of textile waste that had been collected within just six weeks of the project’s inception. During the show the textile waste was discarded in the city of Sibiu, collected for recycling by the sanitation company Soma. “Recycling is not enough!” was the message of the collection, accompanied by diversity and inclusion through collaboration with Cardinalia Models. Set in a backdrop of collection trucks and clothing waste, the collection advocated for conscious consumption and waste reduction.
Mitichi Preda, president of Feeric Fashion Week and the visionary behind Feeric Hub, emphasized, “We are all striving to recycle, transform, and make better choices. However, real change begins before the trash can with conscious consumption, responsibility, and a commitment to reducing waste at the source. Let’s not merely transform what’s already been discarded. It is imperative that we rethink how we consume.”
Following this impactful opening, the collection OP:1 by designer Wijnruit was showcased in a salt storage facility used for city snow removal. This collection explored themes of memory and identity, utilizing recycled materials such as military canvas, lace, wool, lycra, and custom prints to create modular pieces with adjustably short jackets and detachable sleeves, evoking cherished memories and values handed down through generations.
Among the transformed spaces into fashion stages were the underground parking of Promenada Sibiu, the Fortified Church of Cisnădie, the Moara Cibin of the Boromir group, and even the Municipal Stadium.
At the end of the collective presentations, attendees were invited to experience an exhibition by Ana Farima titled “Bodaprosti.” Inspired by a fragile corner of childhood, this collection reconstructed the imagery shaped by words and spells of grandmothers, translating memories into garments with a profound visual impact. Each piece employed traditional craftsmanship techniques combined with an innovative eco-leather material sourced from plant waste, stimulating a subtle dialogue between heritage and experimentation. The exhibition was further enhanced by an observational short film crafted from personal archival recordings and contemporary materials, offering a rich exploration of memory, identity, and the continuity of tradition and innovation.
The underground parking lot of Promenada Sibiu was transformed into an extraordinary contemporary art gallery featuring two dynamic fashion shows. INSIDE Upcycling Couture presented the collection “Appearance of Transition │ Transition of Appearance,” a visual study of metamorphosis, showcasing hand-crafted pieces made from abandoned materials. This collection juxtaposed light and darkness, vibrant color against monochrome elements. Subsequently, the brand WE – Wilczewska Emilia unveiled “DOM,” inspired by the concept of home as a sanctuary. Utilizing materials such as pillows, quilts, and curtains, the pieces were transformed into spacious silhouettes that embody comfort and solace.
As the week progressed, the same industrial backdrop of the underground parking lot continued its aesthetic evolution, featuring presentations from the Fashion Department of the National University of Arts Bucharest, which introduced a selection of bachelor’s and master’s works. These pieces examined fashion as a platform for critical reflection and visual inquiry, surprising audiences with their variety, personal themes, and experimental forms. The evening culminated with “Escapism” by Michal Duraj from the Faculty of Art in Wroclaw, Poland, which drew inspiration from the film The Virgin Suicides and the nostalgia associated with imaginary summers. The collection featured washed-out hues, patinated textures, and sustainable materials, culminating in a wardrobe that emanated poetics and fragility.
Feeric Fashion Week 2025 commenced as a powerful showcase of creative innovation and a steadfast commitment to sustainability, education, and diversity. The opening presentations reaffirmed Sibiu’s position as a reference point in the international fashion scene — a vibrant locale where history and future aspirations converge on the runway.
The second day of Feeric Fashion Week 2025 brought an impressive array of artistic concepts and expressions, utilizing distinctive venues throughout Sibiu and the surrounding areas.
In the historically rich courtyard of the Evangelical Church in Cisnădie, the day commenced with a series of presentations. The collective collection from the Technical University of Moldova proposed an artistic vision deeply inspired by themes of femininity, solitude, astral archetypes, and a reimagining of the poem Luceafărul, emphasizing decorative refinement and creative material combinations. Following this, Blanka Gotić presented “Obedience in Fragments,” inspired by the symbolism inherent within the Mormon religious community, incorporating materials such as poplin, sheer fabrics, and natural twine, crafting a poetic meditation on faith and feminine identity.
The Feeric Venue then transformed into a platform for six diverse collections promoting messages centered on transformation, sustainability, and diversity. Galala University showcased “Transformation,” where emotions, paintings, and fairy tales morphed into wearable art, utilizing cotton, linen, and velvet processed with innovative techniques.
The University of Oradea presented “Error,” exploring post-human silhouettes characterized by ample volumes and industrial materials, while Notre Dame University – Louaize concluded the series with “Prism Thinking,” a collection emphasizing resilience, exemplified through sculpted corsets and contrasting materials.
Later, at Baia Populară, Viktor Spasov presented for VERÈDIA the collection “NOCTERA,” introducing an innovative take on “power dressing” that merges authority with delicacy using rich black velvet, flowing organza, and precious detailing. The Dualitae brand, designed by Alina Lazariu, highlighted the timeless appeal of the white shirt through the collection “The Quiet Icon,” illustrating how simplicity remains a potent statement of style. Established in 1904 in a Jugendstil style, Baia Populară uniquely offered pioneering health and relaxation services, quickly becoming a renowned sanatorium. Recently restored with over 20 million RON invested, it now harmonizes historic charm with contemporary wellness facilities, positioning itself as a sought-after spa destination for residents and visitors alike.
The evening concluded on the terrace of Promenada Sibiu, offering a breathtaking view of the city. The collection “SYNERGIA 2025” by Promenada Sibiu x Raluca Elena Cînean, titled “Summer is Calling,” encapsulated the essence of summer with its lightweight fabrics, pastel tones, and sea-inspired accents. The creations seamlessly intertwined comfort and elegance, heralding a refreshing new direction for the brand focused on simplicity, identity, and freedom.
Feeric Fashion Week 2025 remains dedicated to being a nexus where fashion transforms into a universal language of creativity and innovation, embarking on a captivating journey through art, history, and modern visions. Individual presentations took place at Fabrica Boromir and Municipal Stadium Sibiu, culminating in the highly anticipated Gala Feeric Fashion Week, which showcased a vibrant display of creativity and fashion forwardness.
The third day premiered with a special initiative, Haide, a project coordinated by Karla Ciambur and residing under the Feeric Hub umbrella. HAIDE represents a cultural initiative designed to seamlessly integrate Romanian traditions into contemporary dialogue, ensuring the authentic values of folklore resonate with modern generations. This project convened artists, artisans, researchers, and contemporary creators in a symbolic “horă” that celebrates the arts and Romanian cultural identity. The event took place at Cinegold.
The initial presentations of the day unfolded in the basement of Morii Boromir, featuring the collection “Paper Dolls” by Natalie Soto. This reflective collection addressed themes of healing and reinvention, showcasing romantic silhouettes imbued with edgy accents: reinterpreted shirts, cargo pants, bubble skirts, and babydoll dresses in shades of black, pink, and yellow. The collection was crafted from repurposed fabrics—jerseys, remnants of suits, lace, organza, and handwoven textile scraps—augmented with hand-stitched details, pearls, bows, and woven bags, exemplifying that from fragments, something braver and more beautiful can emerge.
The subsequent presentations moved to the Stadionul Municipal Sibiu, where student designs offered daring perspectives on contemporary societal challenges. Students from the West University of Timișoara engaged in a contemporary discourse addressing collective memory, identity, trauma, rebirth, fragility, and digital alienation, all expressed through innovative volumes, textures, and materials. Designers from the National University of Arts “George Enescu” in Iași—Alexandra Țigăeru, Delia Briceag, and Teodora Gaciu—orchestrated a visual journey where past symbolism and future visions existed within a harmonious contrast, merging reinterpreted tradition, spiritual symbolism, and sustainable deconstruction.
The evening reached its zenith with the Gala Feeric held in Piața Huet, serving as the centerpiece of the week’s events. The collections showcased a remarkable array of styles and ideas, celebrating a vibrant diversity within the fashion industry:
Mild Power – Kauno Kolegija HEI: “Cuoricini,” a dialogue between delicacy and strength, femininity and struggle, in knitwear, velvet, and raw denim.
Daiana-Mihaela Stăncioiu: “UNAPOLOGETIC,” an artistic project from UAD Cluj-Napoca merging the bidimensionality of photography with the tridimensionality of garments, featuring botanical details, embroidery, and 3D elements.
International Balkan University: “Reflections,” a blend of sustainability, streetwear, and contrasting aesthetics featuring fluid draping and recycled materials.
Kaunas University of Applied Sciences: “Does She Speak Samogitian?” by Akvilė Bernotaitė, revitalizing Samogitian tradition, and “Grief” by Kaylee Johnson, inspired by brutalist architecture.
Viamoda: Eight designers exploring gender identity, from androgyny to historical femininity, through lace, embroidery, and functional sustainable pieces.
Hosted by the dynamic TV personality Cosmina Păsărin, the Gala Feeric Fashion Week successfully concluded the 17th edition, reaffirming Sibiu’s status as an international hub for emerging fashion. The unconventional venues, bold concepts, and creative energies from the designers transformed the city into a vivid landscape where fashion became a universal dialect, ever-evolving toward the future.
Feeric Fashion Week 2025 is co-financed by the City Hall of Sibiu and the Sibiu County Council, with significant support from primary partners NEPI Rockcastle and Promenada Sibiu. International collaborators included the French Institute, the French Embassy, Euronews, IED Milan, Ford, CineGold and Boromir.
The 32nd edition of INSPIRAMAIS, the leading trade show for materials launches for the footwear, apparel, furniture, automotive upholstery, decoration, and jewelry industries in Latin America, concluded with more than 150 exhibitors and US$8 million in international business. The event took place on July 15th and 16th at the Pro Magno Event Center in São Paulo/SP. The attendance of over 8,000 buyers and industry professionals was a record for all of its 30+ editions.
Walter Rodrigues, visionary designer and head of the Design and Research Center at Assintecal (the Brazilian Association of Companies for Components in Leather, Footwear and Artifacts), emphasized that INSPIRAMAIS is far more than a materials trade fair — it’s a cultural map outlining fashion’s direction. His research provides the foundation for each season’s launches, guided by the Product Development Pyramid, divided into 3 parts:
10% Laboratory/ research, innovation with a purpose generates value.
Where innovation lives, for runway, art, and concept pieces.
30%, strategy, planning/process generates assertiveness.
Reflects current trends, tuned to the global circuit of textures, colors, and silhouettes.
60%, know-how, sureness generates price/competitiveness.
It is the engine of commercial viability—mass-market materials adapted from experimental ideas.
Rodrigues emphasized that these levels are not defined by price, but by purpose and pace.
10% Human: Designing Hope
Human, the central theme guiding this season’s curated materials at INSPIRAMAIS, embraces a philosophy of healing — expressed through tactile softness, pastel palettes, and emotionally resonant textures. Korean German philosopher Byung-Chul Han’s stark observation that “tragedy sells” inspired a counter-narrative rooted in resilience. As Walter Rodrigues explained in our interview, “We are fighting fear with committed hope.”
This wasn’t just an abstract concept — it was a strategic design response to a national trauma: devastating floods in Rio Grande do Sul that halted production and shattered communities. Rather than retreat, the fashion industry leaned into unity, crafting materials that offer comfort, connection, and care. Rodrigues described hope not as naïveté, but as a dynamic design mechanism — resistance against cultural fatigue. In an era dominated by doomscrolling, emotional fabrics become powerful tools: muted corals, powder blues, and softened textures serve as gentle reminders of safety and optimism.
The fair also drew inspiration from Ursula de Castro, whose words during political upheaval — “If each of us does one good thing a day, we can overcome waves of negativity” — shaped the ethos of micro-resistance behind this season’s collection. Every curated material was designed to uplift, to soothe, and to foster meaningful human connection.
This season’s 10% innovation tier placed hope front and center — offering the kind of emotional storytelling that designers need in times of tension. Whether it’s for a collection inspired by community resilience or a fashion show designed to inspire optimism, INSPIRAMAIS made clear: the next big trend isn’t a color or silhouette — it’s emotional relevance.
30% Burnout: Fashion’s Emotional Wake-Up Call
Rodrigues described BURN OUT as a collective state of tension and paralysis, triggered by the catastrophic floods in Rio Grande do Sul. The disaster not only disrupted production but exposed the fragility of the fashion ecosystem under pressure.
Burnout wasn’t just psychological — it was social, political, and industrial. It marked a moment when creativity stalled, and the industry had to confront its emotional limits. This led to a deeper investigation into how design could offer relief, reconnection, and resilience. The transition from Burnout to Human reflects a shift from crisis to care — a movement toward materials that soothe, colors that embrace, and textures that invite healing.
60% Peripherals: The Power of the Global South
Rodrigues also spoke passionately about the Peripherals—the creative explosion coming from the Global South. “We have fewer resources, but more color, more courage,” he said. INSPIRAMAIS embraces this vibrancy, showcasing artisanal techniques and street-level creativity from Brazil, Colombia, India, and China, and pushing back against Eurocentric standards of taste. Key characteristics of peripheral materials include: The use of dense, metallic tones with strong references to the 1980s, such as gold and silver finishes. A prominent presence of animal prints, applied across leather, synthetic laminates, and textiles. An emphasis on production speed and price competitiveness, without compromising creativity. A deliberate mix of synthetics, leathers, and fabrics to explore new material possibilities.
Streaming as Trend Incubator
One of the most striking insights from the conversation: the influence of streaming platforms as cultural engines. “Fashion must anticipate demand created by media,” Rodrigues said, referencing the upcoming Harry Potter reboot. Materials were already being prepared for fan merchandise, costumes, and retail collections. Designers were urged to stay alert to streaming trends as behavioral catalysts.
Turning Point: What’s Next
Looking ahead, Turning Point will be the theme of the next INSPIRAMAIS edition. Leather goods, for example, will explore two visual directions: Gaseous: watercolor effects, fluidity, and soft movement. Rupture: structured pieces with metallic finishes and textural breaks. Each serves as a metaphor for transformation—whether a whisper or a crack in the system.
INSPIRAMAIS is proof that fashion’s future isn’t just about form or function, but about feeling. Walter Rodrigues reminded me that creativity is not only reactive but redemptive. And in this corner of the Global South, hope isn’t just a theme—it’s a design strategy.
INSPIRAMAIS was organized by Assintecal in partnership with the Center for the Brazilian Tanning Industries (CICB), the Brazilian Association of the Textile and Apparel Industry (Abit), and the Brazilian Association of Furniture Industries (Abimóvel). It was produced by Brazilian Materials and partnered with Sebrae Nacional. The next edition of the event will take place on January 27 and 28, 2026, at the FIERGS Events Center, in Porto Alegre/RS.
Luxury Belgian brand Delvaux – the world’s oldest fine leather goods house – has unveiled its ‘Language of Nature’ pop-up at Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp, blending art, craftsmanship, and nature with the stylish backdrop of the city’s best hotel. This activation marks the final chapter of a floral installation journey, which has previously seen audiences in California and Hong Kong.
A CELEBRATION OF BELGIAN ELEGANCE AND ARTISTRY
The installation, set within the tranquil monastery gardens of Botanic Sanctuary, features a romantic, reimagined ‘Flower Kiosk’, inspired by the fluid lines of Art Nouveau and the visionary legacy of architect Victor Horta. Delvaux also presents exclusive pieces from its ‘Language of Nature’ collection in a pop-up shop where Belgian blooms – tulips, daisies, irises – are embroidered, sculpted, and stylised across the Maison’s trademark leather designs. The takeover continues in an adjoining ‘Delvaux café’, situated in the gardens and open daily from 10 AM to 10 PM, seamlessly blending the exceptional dining Botanic Sanctuary is known for, and Delvaux’s luxury design.
ABOUT DELVAUX
Delvaux, founded in 1829 in Brussels, is the world’s oldest fine leather goods house. Known for its timeless craftsmanship and pioneering spirit, Delvaux has designed iconic handbags, blending elegance and innovation for nearly two centuries. The Maison’s creations continue to uphold a commitment to exceptional quality and enduring artistry. As official purveyor to the Royal Court of Belgium since 1883, Delvaux remains committed to honoring Belgian cultural excellence. With over 60 boutiques worldwide, the Maison continues to inspire with creations that embody heritage, innovation, and artistry.
ABOUT BOTANIC SANCTUARY ANTWERP
Hidden behind ancient walls within the city’s Botanic Gardens, Botanic Sanctuary Antwerp is a five-star, 108-room hospitality haven in the heart of Europe’s Diamond Capital. Home to five exceptional restaurants – three of which boast Michelin stars – the property also includes a state-of-the-art spa, a 15th-century chapel, a screening theatre, and The Unprecedented, one of the world’s most exclusive invitation-only whisky investment clubs.
The 5th edition of Africa Fashion Up concluded with a memorable evening on Thursday,
June 26, cementing its status as a major event during Paris Fashion Week and an essential platform for emerging African talent.
Throughout a week marked by discovery, exchange, and emotion, designers, experts, luxury houses, and institutions came together to celebrate the boldness and diversity of African fashion through a rich and dynamic program: masterclasses, the Africa Now pop-up store at Galeries Lafayette, immersive visits, and a spectacular final runway show at the Bridge Pont Alexandre III.
By offering a true stage to these young talents, Valérie Ka, founder of the event, celebrates the creativity and innovation of the African continent, while reaffirming her ambition to structure and promote the African fashion industry on the international stage.
Valérie Ka, Founder of Share Africa – Africa Fashion Up (left), Hawi Midekssa, winner of the Women’s Entrepreneurship Award and Best Designer Africa (center), Margot Lalanne, Global Internal Communication Director at Balenciaga (right)
An Award Lineup Reflecting a New Generation
Among the 300 applications received this year, five committed designers were honored. Ethiopian designer Hawi Midekssa stood out by winning two major awards: the Women’s Entrepreneurship Award, presented by Alexandre Liot (Galeries Lafayette), and the prestigious Best Designer Africa Award, presented by Margot Lalanne (Balenciaga).
Liot (Galeries Lafayette), and the Best Designer Africa Award, presented by Ludivine Pont (Balenciaga), celebrated the young designer’s bold vision and creative power.
Clarisse Reille, jury president and director of DEFI, awarded the Jury’s Special Prize to Frank Aghuno (Fruché). Élisabeth Moreno, former minister and committed patron of the event, praised “this beauty that unites and tells a story” before presenting the Eco-Responsibility Award to Peter Oshobor (Oshobor) and Samkelo Xaba (Boyde) for their commitment to sustainable fashion.
Elizabeth Tchoungui, CSR Director at Orange Group, awarded the Digital Creation Prize to Cameroonian designer Fese Ndumbe-Eyoh (Eloli World). This award includes enhanced strategic support in digital marketing and business development to accelerate the brand’s international reach.
The runway show also featured the collections of Collé Sow, Algueye, Mina Binebine (2022 winner), and Yoni Alousseni as guests of honor.
A festive and artistic evening.
Over 300 guests attended the runway show held at Bridge – Pont Alexandre III, a legendary venue between Les Invalides and the Grand Palais. The event welcomed prominent figures from the worlds of culture and politics, including Flora Coquerel, Miss France 2014 ; Aïssa Maïga actress ; Aboudia Abdoulaye Diarrassouba, artist ; Nadège Beausson-Diagne, actress ; Diarra Dime Labille, Africa-Diaspora Advisor (Élysée) ; Gabriel Wenyen, basket-ball player; Élie de Rothschild Jr. ; Élisabeth Richard, Director of Civil Society Relations at ENGIE ; Raphaël Say, model, influencer and Sacko Camara, comedian. The evening concluded with performances by Hiro, Papi Del Sol, La Team Paiya and Moh Green, named Best DJ Africa at the Trace Awards.
Representatives from major brands were also in attendance. : Ludivine Pont, Chief Marketing Officer at Balenciaga ; Alexandre Liot Director of Galeries Lafayette France; Yann Rivoallan, President of the French Federation of Women’s Ready-to-Wear Fashion ; Clarisse Reille, Managing Director of IFTH and DEFI, the incubator and growth accelerator for the clothing industry in France, and Thomas du Pré de Saint Maur, Creative Director of Chanel Fragrance & Beauty.
Committed partners supporting emerging talent
Africa Fashion Up is much more than a fashion show it is a springboard for a new generation of African designers. In 2025, long-standing partners strengthened their commitment:
Balenciaga continues its personalized mentorship program
Orange supports the digital strategy of the brand Eloli World
HEC Paris offers a tailored support program including masterclasses and coaching
Istituto Marangoni provides specialized training in fashion and business
For the second consecutive year, Galeries Lafayette hosted an international pop-up store under their iconic dome from June 18 to July 8
Studio Ka, the flagship brand of Africa Fashion Up, returned for the second year to Galeries Lafayette as part of the Africa Now pop-up store, following the organization of its very first sales event by young African designers in the iconic department store. The label, founded by Valérie Ka, has established itself as a key showcase for contemporary African fashion in the heart of the Parisian retail landmark, presenting this year the designers Collé Sow, Algueye, and Bandama from June 18 to July 8.
“For the fifth consecutive year, Balenciaga is a proud partner of Share Africa – Africa Fashion Up, reaffirming its commitment to diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry. Through this partnership, the House supports the development of creativity in fashion by guiding emerging African designers in their entrepreneurial journey,” said Gianfranco Gianangeli, CEO of Balenciaga.
Celebrating five years of spotlighting African talent and driving impact
Since 2021, Africa Fashion Up has established itself as a key event in Paris for African creativity. Over five editions, dozens of designers from Nigeria, South Africa, Morocco, Senegal, Madagascar, Cameroon, Ethiopia, and Côte d’Ivoire have been brought into the spotlight. They’ve had the opportunity to showcase their collections in Paris, gain access to influential networks, and benefit from high-level mentorship programs. Through this initiative, the Share Africa association continues its mission: to empower African designers to shine on the international stage while staying true to their roots.
“I would like to warmly thank all the designers who have joined this adventure, as well as all our partners for their loyalty and commitment. For the past five years, Africa Fashion Up has been celebrating the richness and diversity of Africa with boldness and kindness, and we will continue on this path,” emphasized Valérie Ka, founder of Share Africa – Africa Fashion Up.
St. Thomas University in Miami proudly hosted a TEDx event featuring Tobi Rubinstein, renowned religious leader, fashion insider, and founder of The House of Faith & Fashion. Her talk, titled “Faith & Fashion,” takes audiences on a deeply personal journey through the intersection of style, spirituality, and identity.
In an industry built on trends and image, Rubinstein offers a rare perspective: that fashion is more than fabric—it’s a form of faith. Sharing stories from her upbringing in a stylish yet deeply devout family, to her transformative path through the world of couture and belief, she unveils a multilevel relationship between what we wear and what we believe.
“God is the master couturier,” Rubinstein declares in the talk, weaving together anecdotes, spiritual insights, and industry truths to highlight how clothing can become a sacred language. Whether dressing for empowerment, modesty, or divine purpose, Rubinstein explores how style can serve as a spiritual expression, revealing “God’s dress code” embedded in culture, tradition, and personal transformation.
From embracing moments of being a self-described “haute mess” to embracing modesty as a modern strength, Rubinstein’s TEDx talk affirms that faith is not separate from fashion—it is stitched into every fiber of the human experience.
For those who’ve ever questioned how outward appearance can reflect inward conviction, this talk offers a powerful new lens.
Photo: Credits Yuma Martellanz
Credits: David Needleman
