Denibi NYFW SS18: Wings of Desire

Represented by Seventh House PR.

During another hectic New York Fashion Week, I think we’re all in need of a little creative utopia. My personal utopia is pretty simple: I like to see relaxing works of art. And I’ve never doubted fashion is art. (Because if not, what is it?)

Fortunately, Barcelona-based fashion house Denibi is here to melt any exhausted feelings away, with an assortment of gorgeous, structured looks that are beautiful to the eye and soft to the touch.

As the press materials state:

“The name ‘Denibi’ symbolizes a utopia for creatives. An island never damaged or influenced by any negative foreign interference. Where creatives are able to push themselves to the fullest of their artistic abilities in the comfort of like minds and limitless possibility. That concept is what we know today as the future.”

 
Denibi: NYFW SS18

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The looks featured high-fashion silhouettes with clean, sculpted, slightly exaggerated lines à la Chloe, along with elegant, sparse floral motifs on dresses and separates.

The looks featured high-fashion silhouettes with clean, sculpted, slightly exaggerated lines

Denibi specializes in in high quality leather goods, ready-to-wear, and furniture, and the SS18 collection is inspired by their native Barcelona: the essence of traveling, African heritage, and minimalism.

the essence of traveling, African heritage, and minimalism

According to the fashion house: “Denibi has been preparing the future for years to bring fine taste and minimalism through design. The architecture and aesthetic of the islands is represented through the many tones of pastel colors and whites throughout each collection.”

This was one of our favorite collections of the season (made even nicer by one of our favorite new models on the scene, Shannon Thaler), and we’re looking forward to seeing more gorgeous, minimalist designs from this Spanish fashion house.

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FWO

Julianna Bass SS18: Future Frock

Represented by UFCG PR.

The Future (with a capital F) is one of our favorite topics. So we were so delighted to hear that Julianna Bass was venturing into ground-breaking new territory in the realm of wearable technology.

From dresses that literally changed color to the collaboration with Berlin artist Stefan Hirsig seen on various prints, this season at Julianna Bass was all about innovation and how beautifully magical these innovations can be.

this season was all about how beautifully magical innovation can be

 
Julianna Bass: NYFW SS18

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Shades of silver, gold, and rose gold-foiled lambskin stuck out in a sea of lilacs, ivory and rich orchid color schemes. Bass juxtaposed delicately draped chiffons and tulle with bold piping and sharp prints made by the Berlin artist Setfan Hirsig in the work titles “Desastres VI.” The faces on the prints were ambiguous and striking.

Standout pieces included dresses that actually changed color on the runway. Bass used a special thermochromic ink, bringing a true sense of where runway shows are heading 20 years down the road. Julianna Bass kept everyone on their toes once again this season, bringing another beautiful collection of wearable pieces to New York Fashion Week.

Bass gave us a sense of where runway shows are heading 20 years down the road

The cutting-edge “responsive garment” during her Spring / Summer 2018 fashion runway show was created in partnership with LOOMIA, an innovative technology company that specializes in adding intelligence to everyday objects. They’re also the engineering masterminds behind the Zac Posen Google LED dress Coco Rocha wore during NYFW 2015.

The “responsive garment”was created in partnership with LOOMIA

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FWO

Sechs Element: Eco Couture Designers Make Their NYFW Debut

Represented by Company Agenda.

It’s interesting how the moniker of “emerging” often connotes people who aren’t quite ready for prime time. So it’s a potent reminder of how much talent exists in the world when you see a group of “emerging” designers who are clearly already executing at a top level.

The collections from the seven designers of Sechs Element — walking the runway the first day of New York Fashion Week — showcased (often painstaking) artistry in a wide range of styles, from sporty to avant garde to formal.

The collections showcased artistry in a wide range of styles

And these designs were not only beautiful, but sustainable, as well.

The fashion show was these designers’ first in the United States and took place at IMG New York Fashion Week: First Stage.

Featured talent selected by Sechs Element from applicants from around the world included Alice Potts (England), Apoorva Gupta (India), Cen Si (Finland), Peiyang Zou (China), Chenhui Zhang (China), Jiaren Du (China) and Daria Lutskevich (Belarus).

 
Sechs Element: NYFW SS18

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Founded in 2016, Sechs Element’s mission is to further awareness and education of sustainability in the fashion industry with a focus on China. Taking a leadership role in spreading the message of eco-consciousness, the firm will reprise its debut fashion show in China following NYFW, educating students and fashion industry professionals on sustainability resources and practices.

Sechs Element is taking a leadership role in spreading the message of eco-consciousness

Meet the seven designers who made their debut on the NYFW stage.

Alice Potts

Each of my pieces are exactly the same squares interlocked in different material. Each garment consists of 150-600 squares that can all be slotted together to create a whole garment, the idea being that one base of a garment can turn into a multiple of items such as jackets, dresses, trouser or handbags from the same number of squares. My customer would only need a set number of squares that can be changed into endless amounts of garments.

Each of my pieces are exactly the same squares interlocked in different material

Apoorva Gupta

Waste is a human invention and as it is up to us to design it out of the system. My collection focuses on being sustainable as all the pattern pieces have a function and fit together like a jigsaw puzzle, eliminating any waste. My collection reflects distinctive, fashion-forward clothes. My silhouettes are simple yet versatile and can be worn in multiple ways. Some of my pieces are even reversible. I believe that zero waste garments increase the value of the garment making it longer lasting and reducing the shopping frequency which further reduces the waste associated with the production.

Waste is a human invention and as it is up to us to design it out of the system

Cen Si

As a pianist and composer who studied music since I was young, I use a unique system to translate my musical compositions into fashion, incorporating technology and digital interaction to connect the boundaries of music, performance and fashion. With a heavy focus on print, design and color, I used a rich color palette in my collection to create a quirky, slightly athletic style inspired by my musical compositions – expressing a story about my childhood in Finland the same way an unpolished tune is transformed into a beautiful, complete piece.

I use a unique system to translate my musical compositions into fashion

Chenhui Zhang

Through storytelling I am able to connect the clothes with a deeper in relation with culture, history and customers. In SS18, I want to focus on sustainability and production transparency. This season’s story is one of consumerism, emphasizing 1990s Chinese workwear with historical references of sportswear, tailoring, and vintage workwear. For each piece, customers will have a direct and correct idea of what, why and how the pieces are produced. In my opinion, the excess waste in the fashion industry is produced through the lack of emotional connection between customers and products. By creating a story that is transparent, storytelling is my way to solve the problem of excess waste.

the excess waste in the fashion industry is produced through the lack of emotional connection between customers and products

Peiyang Zou

My concept is about “reconstruction.” I have gathered and recycled horsehair, which is commonly used in tailoring pieces, and cotton gauze, which is fundamental to everyday care. These massively produced and overlooked materials lost meanings in the fast-paced industry and became unwanted. My goal is to bring attention to over-consumption and give these materials new meanings. I am also using hand-made and ethically sourced fabrics from my hometown, quite the opposite idea of excessive consumption, to explore materiality and bring attention to sustainability.

I am also using hand-made and ethically sourced fabrics from my hometown

Jiaren Du

My idea is about when people want to dispose of their garment, they can take it apart easily and recycle them. In this collection, “The Walking Art,” the construction is about putting the printed paper and solid texture between two layers of clear plastic, giving an effect which looks like using the garment to exhibit art. And I use staples instead of the sewing machine to put all layers together. In my color story, I use different shade of grey to represent the pollutions; however, I also use light and soft spring colors to represent the beautiful lands.

when people want to dispose of their garment, they can take it apart easily and recycle them

We look forward to seeing more from these seven amazing international talents, at the vanguard of fashion. They are paving the way for the future of fashion, and helping to create a better earth for all of us in the process.

Onward!

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FWO

Taoray Wang NYFW SS18

Represented by Company Agenda.

The world annoys. Art soothes. Ultimately, that’s what fashion is all about. Art is always looking to create a better, more perfect world, even if the circumstances around art are less-than perfect. Fortunately, the world always seems to turn for the better, and meanwhile art is there to lend us a dose of inspiration while we wait.

On September 9, Chinese designer Wang Tao, founder of Taoray Wang, showcased her Spring-Summer 2018 collection at the latest installment of New York Fashion Week.

Wang Tao is one of China’s most celebrated and accomplished designers and a pioneer of contemporary Chinese women’s fashion. Over the past two decades, the graduate of the Institute Tokyo Mode Gakuen has grown from an aspiring designer to one of Asia’s most successful female entrepreneurs, launching her namesake brand TAORAY WANG at New York Fashion Week in September 2014.

 
Taoray Wang: NYFW SS18

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“East and West fusion” may not be a new concept in fashion, but everything relies on the execution. Wang Tao is a master of draping: that exquisite art wherein every wrinkle and fold becomes a part of the finished look with the certainty of Rembrandt or Rodin.

every wrinkle and fold becomes a part of the finished look with the certainty of Rembrandt or Rodin

The comparison isn’t too far off the mark, as the inspiration for Taoray Wang’s 2018 Spring Summer Collection came from Baroque musicians Purcell and Handel. Some of the flouncy peplums and exaggerations of the era made an appearance, but sharply reworked for a more modern look. An Elizabethan collar became a belt. A shirt took on an almost moto-like quality.

An Elizabethan collar became a belt. A shirt took on an almost moto-like quality.

One of the strengths of Taoray Wang comes from the fact that Tao is highly attuned to silhouette: that ghostly specter that seems to deliver a look directly to the subconscious.

As a result, the collection had a genuine high-fashion appeal: svelte and sexy, with more than enough wearability to ensure a warm reception at retail.

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With love,

FWO

Runa Ray NYFW SS18

Represented by The Riviere Agency.

When a political message takes center stage of a fashion show, it can be hard to remember that the art and fashion of the clothing is still important, too. At Runa Ray SS18 shown at New York Fashion Week, the clothing showcased the environmental message Ray firmly believes in through rich textile work and handcrafted details.

From the trees of Southeast Asia to the roses blooming in springtime, many species of plants and foliage were pressed on various fabrics and hand-embroidered onto the bodice or skirts of all the looks.

 
Runa Ray: NYFW SS18

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The more relaxed, billowy fit and drape of the fabrics gave the collection a whimsical feel that kept it dreamy. The best part about the collection was the innovative ways the fabrics were dyed and treated. Every look was colored beautifully, and you never would have guessed pomegranate peels, turmeric, and aloe vera were used amongst other natural elements.

you never would have guessed pomegranate peels, turmeric, and aloe vera were used amongst other natural elements

Runa Ray reminded us to take a step back and appreciate what nature has to offer, from the beauty of undergrowth illustrated through sequins and threadwork on a long white silk dress, to the functionality of the banana fiber used to create the woven menswear pieces.

Runa Ray used ancient techniques in treating the materials represented in her collection. “I have used hand-woven fabrics such as bamboo silks, bamboo cottons, and silks. Natural dyes such as Indian madder, indigo, pomegranate peels, and areca nut create the different tones of the materials. These natural fabrics are dipped in aloe vera to create a medicinal benefit found in the womenswear lining and fashionable menswear jackets and bottoms,” said the designer.

Runa Ray used ancient techniques in treating the materials represented in her collection

Using handwoven, organically dyed and printed fabrics gives the collection an enchanted forest type botanical feel.

The show opened with a series of neutral cream silk pieces printed with leaves and florals in a fossilized motif. Oversized, asymmetrical flutter sleeves were a theme in both her ivory and blush pieces sprinkled with a hint of sparkle detail. The collection included a variety of silhouettes extending from dresses and jumpsuits to separates and even menswear.

Bold harem pants and detailed tops wowed guests with the surprise of men’s pieces on the SS18 catwalk. Natural leaf embroideries trickled through several silhouettes for both men and women. Glitter overlays, rich florals and gold tones elevated the final series of the presentation. An easygoing aura permeated throughout the entire collection.

Closing the show was Runa Ray’s The Bleeding Dress, which made an impact scripted with “Imagination is the Only Weapon Against Reality.” Fast fashion is crowding the space for designers like Runa Ray who artistically and carefully craft every item. Runa Ray created this collection with a crying heart for Mother Earth who is currently suffering from the damage of humankind.

Fast fashion is crowding the space for designers like Runa Ray who craft every item

“Together we can save our planet from ecological waste and fast fashion. Fashion can be a powerful tool to educate and push people to join in saving and preserving our planet” said the designer.

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FWO

Vaishali NYFW SS18

Represented by The Riviere Agency.

Vaishali S dug deep into her culture and debuted a neutral-hued collection of handcrafted garments inspired by the natural elements in her homeland of India. New York Fashion Week: First Stage served as a standout platform for Vaishali S to expand into the United States market.

As the lights dimmed, traditional Indian melodies spread amongst the crowd. The first model glided down the catwalk in a stunning, black chiffon high low dress with subtle gold embroidery. Gorgeous drapery and handmade materials glistened under the bright, shining runway lights.

 
Vaishali S: NYFW SS18

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Muted gold and black striking combinations adorned coats and wrap dresses. The collection transformed with the introduction of bright corals and navy. Stitched embellishments covered waistlines of tea length garments.

Vaishali introduced unique layering techniques traditional of India with her shawls wrapped atop dresses, but modernized it by placing them atop sheer A-line mini dresses and skirts. Flowing mind green overlays also topped more traditional Western garments to give them a creative twist with cultural flair.

Vaishali introduced unique layering techniques traditional of India

Minute details like three dimensional floral appliqués and asymmetrical hemlines made Vaishali’s craftsmanship apparent. Most looks consisted of modest long sleeves and cape-like necklines as a part of Vaishali’s vision.

Minute details made Vaishali’s craftsmanship apparent

When asked about her debut collection Vaishali stated, “This collection is all about going back to your roots. I choose my own thread and I make my own fabrics and I create my own silhouettes. Everything is handcrafted. That’s the beauty of the collection.”

I choose my own thread and I make my own fabrics and I create my own silhouettes.

About Vaishali S

Vaishali S is a Mumbai-based luxury label founded by Vaishali Shadangule in 2001 that transforms authentic Indian handlooms into wearable works of art. Vaishali draws inspiration from her ability to observe and listen, allowing her designs to speak for themselves. Vaishali’s vision is to bring India’s centuries-old weaving technique to the forefront of the global fashion scene. The Vaishali S label uses an innovative approach that blends modern fashion trends with traditional Indian textiles. Her current collection is a mix of different types of traditional hand woven textiles of India. Vaishali has explored and worked with textiles developed across India’s many regional and cultural textile centers. She has brought traditional weaving techniques from many of India’s remote villages to its mainstream fashion centers, all the while supporting these local weavers and working towards extending her goodwill to many other parts of India.Vaishali S has successfully produced and presented 19 collections at prestigious events such as the New York Fashion Week, FDCI (Amazon/Wills) Fashion Week, New Delhi and Lakme Fashion Week, Mumbai, to date.

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FWO

Son Jung Wan NYFW SS18

Represented by Deborah Hughes Inc.

For SS18, Son Jung Wan debuted a truly stunning collection that incorporated floral appliqués, gauzy fabrics, and gorgeous prints on svelte separates.

The far-ranging collection included eveningwear, clothes for a daytime summer stroll, and even some menswear.

 
Son Jung Wan: NYFW SS18

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The unifying theme was The French Riviera — that part of the Mediterranean coastline that begins from the southeast corner of France and flows to the west.

And times blurring the line between sleepwear and casual wear, Son Jung Wan’s collection would prove a perfect accompaniment on a breezy day, leisurely strolling the promenade at Cannes.

Son Jung Wan’s collection would be a perfect accompaniment on a breezy day

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FWO

Maison the Faux New York Fashion Week SS18

Represented by EB Consults Worldwide.

In literature, the “intentional fallacy” is used to describe the erroneous notion that the artist’s interpretation of her / his own work should be believed. In the context of a ready to wear presentation, this means often the press information about a work of art contains the artist’s attempt to be not only the artist, but their own critic, as well.

Teasing apart the artist’s intent for the collection and the observer’s experience of it becomes especially important in the context of a presentation as strange as Maison the Faux’s at this New York Fashion Week.

(We should add here that we are big fans of the Dutch meta-fictional fashion house.)

 
Maison the Faux: NYFW SS18

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Maybe because of my awkwardly placed seat at the show — essentially in the back, to the side — I was able to appreciate the wild imagination of the looks for themselves without bearing witness to the dramatic staging. (This is, by the way, a rather fancy way of saying I had a crummy seat and couldn’t see what was happening.)

So it was only in the press photos and by watching the replay that I got to see the curious spectacle I (apparently) missed: what appeared to be some sort of strange being (to find the kindest interpretation, as other, less savory ones came to mind) tormenting, or possibly baptizing a number of people who seemed to be worker drones of the future.

Now that the yin (of my subjective observation) has been somewhat sketched out, we can blend in the yang of the press materials, which state:

“During the show of the Dutch fictional fashion house, all of the models joined into a FAUX ritual. A ritual in which they surrendered themselves to the false promise of a new and better world.

“During this ritual, models were baptised from a water dispenser, christening them as FAUXmosapiens, before entering vertical, incubator-like tanning beds. We posed the question: ‘Why and who do you choose to follow?’

“In a world that (still) struggles to see us all as individual human beings, MAISON the FAUX offers an alternate world; the FAUXmosapien world. An evolved world in which everyone can be themselves and let go of beauty ideals and trends.”

You can let me know if that made sense to you. (Fortunately, we have a feeling it was meant to be humorous.)

Returning to the weak watercolors of my yin, what I saw from my lugubrious little corner of the room was a number of extremely imaginative, colorful looks, that I could see being the common mode of dress in, say, 2455.

Like everything we’ve seen from Maison the Faux, the collection dazzled with the audacity of the best of modern art.

the collection dazzled with the audacity of the best of modern art

Most visions of the future are either utopian or dystopian. In this case, the fashion house’s vision seemed, in a sense, more measured. Both blissful and fearful elements were mixed in.

The fact that some of the looks seemed to be tattered bouclé jackets reminiscent of Chanel, might also lead you to imagine the garments were the result of some fashion apocalypse yet to come.

Such as, perhaps, more quasi-celebrities and self-obsessed selfie-takers taking up valuable space in the front row.

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FWO

Galtiscopio NYFW SS18

Represented by The Riviere Agency.

Galtiscopio debuted at NYFW: Fist Stage with A-list musical performances and embellished jewel-tone silks. An overflowing house of celebrities and fashion industry members sat at the edge of their seats awaiting the start of this much-anticipated ready-to-wear runway show by acclaimed accessories designer.

 
Galtiscopio: NYFW SS18

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Well-known throughout the music industry for her jewel encrusted watches and jewelry pieces, for NYFW SS18, Galtiscopio pulled inspiration from that very realm along with the brands overall theme — chic and feminine.

Galtiscopio is well-known throughout the music industry for her jewel encrusted watches and jewelry pieces

Ray J opened the show by performing his brand-new song “How Did I Know,” dedicated to his gorgeous wife, Princess Love sitting in the front row. The first looks to strut the catwalk were stark white with circular hip cutouts framed by Swarovski crystals, a motif we could see on Princess herself.

As top hip hop beats flooded the room, guests were taken on a journey of gorgeous gowns and jumpsuits in rich greys and eggplant hues.

To break up the eveningwear pieces, Galtiscopio showed a capsule collection of graphic t-shirts with phrases draped across like “Time to Shine” and “Chic and Feminine.” Models strutted in the designer’s signature oversized style with hidden bottoms.

When asked about this collection, designer Ying Lau stated, “It is a mixture of creativity and contemporary. I would like every woman to show her unique, confident, splendid and elegant personality.”

Crystalized gunmetal mesh layered both over and underneath bodysuits paired beautifully with plunging necklines and maroon shades. The designer created custom embellished headphones which a select handful of models rocked on the runway to link her connection to the music industry.

Kingcombs rapped his new hit “Type Different” to close the show before designer Ying Lau made a statement with her squad of models all out on the floor. Floor-length muted gold sequin gowns dusted with feather embellishments sent jaws dropping.

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About Galtiscopio

Ying Lau has studied fashion design at Fashion Institute of Technology in New York, and established the fashion label, INITIAL in 2000. She developed the brand within years with her sharp business acumen. And since 2007, initial began to diversify. Besides its own-label brand, 50 brands by international designs have been introduced and marketed at the outlets. Moreover initial Fashion, initial Café, initial Hair, initial PORTE and initial Atelier have been established to enhance the attraction of the brand through various retail channels other than fashion; initial currently owns more than 80 branches all over Asia! The total revenue of the brand hits USD 100 million, and she is currently Director of initial. In 2014, she joined GALTISCOPIO as a director and the creative director, to lead the brand towards positive development with her vast experiences. As a person with great passion for delicate fashion sense and lifestyle, Ying Lau injects a brand-new culture into GALTISCOPIO with her excellent experience in corporate management and forward-looking senses & visions. She is definitely a young female entrepreneur equipped with both creativity and practical business concepts. In the early 2017, she is bringing the business to the United States and the first location will be at Beverly Hills, Los Angeles.

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Bibhu Mohapatra: Woman Warriors

Represented by Think Public Relations.

Bibhu Mohapatra’s fertile imagination flexed its range at this New York Fashion Week, showcasing a gorgeous array of wearable wonders that would be comfortably at home on any art gallery wall.

Truly, it’s collections like these that remind us that fashion is art. And the theme of strong women is very much in step with the tempo of the times.

 
Bibhu Mohapatra: NYFW SS18

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The BIBHU MOHAPATRA Spring Summer 2018 collection draws inspiration from art and life in traditional Eastern Asia. Reflecting on the mysterious female samurai, the collection strikes a balance between seduction and strength – a power dynamic interpreted in geometric silhouettes and artful, embellished fabrics.

“The role of the female samurai has, historically, been a battle of its own. She is always the exception and never the rule. Each piece has been designed to echo her extraordinary uniqueness through masterpieces of Japanese lace, sunburst pleated tulle, and silk mikado. There is war in art and there is art in war – this collection captures the vibrancy of it all,” explains Mohapatra.

The role of the female samurai has, historically, been a battle of its own

Rooted in conflict, the SS18 collection’s resolution is a synergistic mix of couture ready-to-wear and evening gowns. Highlights include necklines and drapework reminiscent of formal kimonos, geometrically inclined beadwork, and knotting inspired by Japanese Shibari – the artistic practice of bondage.

Mohapatra also collaborated with Christian Louboutin to customize two styles of shoes from the French luxury brand’s SS18 collection. Nosy, a pointy-toe pump, and Nosy Flat, a pointy-toe flat style combine two contrasting colors of leather with transparent PVC and floral lace accents. These sleek, ultra-feminine styles both reveal and conceal the foot, echoing the duality inherent to Mohapatra’s collection.

Mohapatra also collaborated with Christian Louboutin to customize two styles of shoes

For embellishments, Mohapatra collaborated with PreciosaGroup on fine crystals. “Preciosa is the perfect collaborator for us as we built this collection. Their product stands for incredible quality, refinement and modernity which enables me to take my collection from concept to realization.”

Explicitly designed from head to toe, the BIBHU MOHAPATRA SS18 collection introduces the image of a self-actualized warrior.

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FWO