Xu Zhi London Fashion Week FW18
Xuzhi Chen is the man behind the London-based label XU ZHI. The Chinese fashion designer graduated from Central Saint Martins and after edification at J.W. Anderson’s and Craig Green’s he established his fashion brand in 2014.
XU ZHI struck my fancy last year due to the F/W show at tremendous Teatro Armani, in Milan. I knew from the very first moment I saw his clothes, that Xuzhi Chen is a respectable designer; lacking experience numbered by years, having talent and skills instead. I am captivated by XU ZHI’s deconstruction and unfinished touches, which never feel neither messy nor informal.
Xu Zhi: London FW18
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Coloured with warm orange, dark green, navy blue and interspersed blonde and pink, XU ZHI’s signature braiding craftsmanship is again variously applied in the 2018 Autumn/Winter collection that was presented yesterday during London Fashion Week.
Decorative tassels deliberately prolonged to simulate the pallet and textured surface of classic oil paintings reveal Chen’s inspiration, Jane Morris. Jane was an English artists’ model, and the lover and muse for both textile designer William Morris, and painter Dante Gabriel Rossetti. For this collection, XU ZHI intends to discuss the complex relationship between creators and their muses.
The London-based brand defines what contemporary attitude to both aesthetic and craftsmanship is all about. We need more of this.