Feathers, lace and crystals: Ulyana Sergeenko unveiled a kaleidoscope of images from Hollywood movies about cabaret and dance shows. The vivacious and vibrant Haute Couture collection draws from the chic of French variete, stage costumes of cinema divas and circus aesthetics.
The color palette blends combinations of red and fuchsia with shades of blue, coral, deep violet, and black-and-white accents. A playful joie de vivre shines through in the delicate cinematic references and homages to iconic cultural phenomena like the legendary Parisian cabaret Folies Bergere, and, most strikingly, in the intricate details of carved bone figurines, uniquely designed cigarette holders, and whimsical elements custom-made in Gus-Khrustalny.
The photoshoot in Paris was captured by Elizaveta Porodina, with Natalia Vodianova in front of the lens. The story’s styling was curated by Victoria Sekrier.
Ulyana Sergeenko
Movement Director Pat Boguslawski
MUAH: Konstantin Kochegov, Alena Moiseeva
Ulyana’s muse emerges as a true superstar, dazzling in spectacular costumes. Adorned with an extravagant headpiece swaying with ostrich feathers, she steps onto the stage in perfect harmony with shimmering gemstones and the chime of dangling embellishments. The sway of scalloped trims and the play of satin ruffles evoke the golden age of Hollywood, reminiscent of the 1948 film Ladies of the Chorus and the extravagant madness of Ziegfeld Follies on Broadway.
The collection’s leading ladies include the legendary actress and socialite of the last century Zsa Zsa Gabor and the dazzling French ballerina Zizi Jeanmaire, who could be easily imagined in a floor-length gowns of sequins and silk chrysanthemum petals, tailored satin jackets with a shawl collar, or hand-knitted beaded corset dresses adorned with voluminous ruffles.
Archival photographs of vintage circus tours and dance shows of the 20th century provided inspiration for the collection’s velvet, flowing muslin, chiffon, silk, and satin designs, all lavishly enriched with gemstones, intricate embroidery, and appliqués. Embellished fez hats with towering feathers and oversized pompoms, straw fezzes, shimmering marabou headbands, and delicately beaded lace caps transport us to the era of cabaret.
This season, Ulyana introduces couture pieces, creating the effect of bare skin, reminiscent of Venus emerging from the sea covered only by the shimmer of crystals that resemble glistening sea drops. Complementing this elegant nakedness are fully sequined corset gowns, vintage fur tailcoats in pink and black, and asymmetrical draped dresses.
The couture footwear line, an essential part of the collection, includes classic mules adorned with pompoms, bows, and crystals, as well as high-heeled shoes seemingly worn down by time on the Broadway stage and mirrored ballroom floors. One of the most theatrical designs is a pair of garter-style thigh-high boots. No collection would be complete without a range of exquisite accessories, from mitts and fur muffs with sculpted animal paws to knitted net bags with crystal-encrusted hens, clutches, and exquisite jewelry.
Bags, a signature focus for the couturier, are especially refined and sophisticated this season. A clutch crowned with a luxurious mesh bow, a beaded net bag adorned with crystal figurines, and the iconic ice-cream cone bag on a chain, now available in deep wine and rich black with circus-inspired embellishments, inlays, luxurious embroidery, and tassels. A whimsical silk carousel-shaped bag features such artistic details as hand-painting, embroidery, and a silk pompom.
Among the collection’s standout features are multi-layered chiffon ruffles, dazzling embroidery, and handwoven beaded crystal fringe, but the true signature motif is the pompom as an homage to circus performances. These playful details embellish headpieces, gowns, and accessories, requiring hundreds of hours of meticulous craftsmanship and ingenious construction techniques.
The spirit of the era is further captured in jeweled monocles, ear cuffs and earrings, floral-clasp cigarette holders, and even walking canes. The bold necklaces feature a special technique of stone-setting for large gemstones, in accordance with antique jewelry references.
Ulyana Sergeenko Fashion House remains deeply connected to the rich heritage of traditional craftsmanship, seamlessly integrating unique handmade techniques into its couture aesthetics and combining artisanal methods with the atelier’s in-house technological innovations. Yelets lace serves as the foundation for crystal-embroidered bodysuits and corset nets, while dresses are adorned with signature Gus-Khrustalny glass elements with charming feline faces and intricate heart-shaped compositions. Several types of hand-knitting techniques lend additional elegance to the design. Classic fine-thread hand knitting with beads and crystals transforms gloves and corsets into unparalleled fashion pieces. Select pieces feature the highly intricate Luneville embroidery technique, which combines fine needlework with crochet on the most delicate fabrics, ensuring a flawless finish inside and out.
One of the most extraordinary achievements of the atelier’s artisans is a breathtaking scarlet floral cape made of mesh entirely encrusted with pearls, crystals, and hand-sewn chiffon blossoms, requiring approximately 700 hours of meticulous handwork.
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