” Couture unfolds “
Beauty, in a single passage : Opening look shown on Danielle Slavik, and closing look shown on Gia Bab
What is beauty. The question that is the bane of our industry’s existence. I believe it cannot be addressed with only the presentation of the end product on the runway. From the cuts that mold on the body, to embrace it, not claim; my inspiration with the Atelier is rooted in celebration of us people.
The creations, crafted by artisanal fabric manipulation, resulting in unique surfaces reinterpret suiting adapted to modern posture trough construction adapted to modern life[1],and flou-tailoring [2]. The exploration of organic shapes and the human anatomy through re-invented techno-pleat designs [3] is what the collection speaks to.
The myriad of human silhouettes. Each of them, entirely shaped and sewn by hand. “Cousu main” : a needle, a thread, creation without the use of a machine. Such creation is greatly personal at the base of it all, and inspired by the lives of the diverse group of individuals around me, the generations that inspire and teach me. And so, our inspiration at the Atelier is rooted in this celebration of people, and the myriad of their human silhouettes, that has been a guiding architect.
Reflection on life in this digital age. Silhouettes emerging from a storm, to honour resilience and movement of the body. You are meant to live in our clothes, to be : free. – Peet Dullaert
Peet Dullaert
Photos: Omri Rosengart
1. PEET DULLAERT Signature Suiting – Cut for modern posture. Our cuts allow you to type on your phone, bend your arms at angles needed to live today’s lifestyle, whilst maintaining a fluid sartorial look. This is achieved through the house’s signature turned cut that allows for dynamic movement of the body, achieved through a bias-cut direction on the back and the arms. As opposed to traditional linear position of seams, that does not allow the wearer to live an active life, our signature cut allows for free movement of the arms complimented by design aesthetic that makes our seams flow with the body’s movement.
2. Flou-tailoring – A technique where the fabric is shaped directly on a live body, without the process of creation on a mannequin. The genesis of every design created in this collection is through live draping on the body.
3. PEET DULLAERT Techno pleating – A unique innovation of the house in treating fabric, techno pleating is manipulation of the house trademark pleated-fabric to create shapes. Shapes that are either manipulated by hand or machine, by only one artisan that creates each piece. The way the fabric is pleated and structured, it allows for the wearer to move in the clothes; without feeling constrained by the hems of the clothing. Even though each piece is couture made, the buyer can be assured that they will comfortably be able to fit into the clothes through the journey of their life. The techno pleating material further allows the wearer to travel without worrying about creases. One can bunch up the clothes, such that it is compact and can be fit into a travel suitcase, unfolded and draped on the body. For a carefree wearer that is active and does not want to be worried about ironing, luggage space, but priorities aesthetics and cuts.
4. Care for earth – For every purchase made directly via PEET DULLAERT and through our retailers we support four causes : 1% of our revenue goes towards carbon removal as a Stripe Climate Member.
We fund the The Ocean Cleanup, while simultaneously raising awareness to protect and preserve the oceans and decaying coral reefs through our inspired collections.
Via ‘One Tree Planted’ we donate trees to be planted in the Amazon rainforest, and donate to the ‘Trees for the Future’ organisation; to help improve the livelihoods of impoverished families by aiding to revitalise degraded lands through Forest Gardens, to aid efforts to reverse deforestation.
5. Responsible in-house production cycle – On a made to order basis, for ready to wear and couture, translating to our goal of conscious production. As the house only uses materials to fulfil specific orders leading to minimal scope for waste. Our shipment process is end to end carbon neutral with fully recyclable packaging.
In collaboration with TENCEL™ the house continuous its search for innovative ways to offer a responsible alternative in luxury.
Discover looks developed in one of a kind creations entirely sewn by hand, and shaped to embrace the body, with true sustainable fabrics created in TENCEL™ LUXE.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS :
Artistic Director : Peet Dullaert
Atelier : PEET DULLAERT Paris
Make Up : Hannah Rosie Bennett for MAC Cosmetics
Hair : Ilham Mestour – The Wall Group
Manicure : Maho Ishikawa
Runway Photography : Omri Rosengart
Backstage Photography : Ketevan Tkhelidze
Videography : Nick Naida
Production : Manon Merlet
SPECIAL MENTION:
Baroness Hélène de Ludinghausen , Pierre Bergé †
Mouna Ayoub , Valérie Wertheimer
Pascal Morand , Riccardo Bellini , Florence Tétier
Emily Borich
Frederieke Broekgaarden, Thomas Petit Joseph, Gia Bab, Roni Levav, Diane Douvalle, Ronie Levav, Claire Werlan
Katariina Lamberg, Anna Ahonen : Ahonen & Lamberg
THE LEDE COMPANY
Christine Su, Olivier Bourgis, Carlos Freixeda
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With love,
FWO