2015 was a year of some pretty wonderful revolutions: more rights for more people. More inclusivity both on and off the runway.
2015 was a year of some pretty wonderful revolutions.
And although it may seem small in the grand scheme of things, one of our favorite debuts of 2015 was Klossy — Karlie Kloss’ new YouTube channel produced by Casey Neistat, edited by a few great folks and helmed by associate producers Annalora von Pentz and Ruby Honerkamp.
It’s a channel where you may learn less about a life of international travel than the importance of using freshly ground peanut butter in gluten-free, vegan cookies. And that’s what makes the channel so refreshing.
You may learn less about international travel than the importance of freshly ground peanut butter.
One of the great, not-so-secret secrets of the entertainment business is that, behind the glitz and glamour, are — too-often — a lot of lost souls. For its apparently lightweight patina, Klossy shoulders a hefty load: functioning as a beacon for anyone — who may aspire to glamour, or feel shut out of glamour — to the things that really make us happy.*
And if Klossy has one persistent message, it’s that happiness comes not from clubbing ’til dawn, driving a luxury car, or appearing in print. It’s the same stuff that’s accessible to everyone.
Happiness comes from the same stuff that’s accessible to everyone.
It’s family. It’s friends. It’s taking the time to nurture others.
It’s the precious, underrated, present moment: as simple and tactile — and as real — as cookie dough.
Have a wonderful 2016!
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(p.s. We almost forgot! We’ll be showing one Klossy video per day between now and the new year. It should add up to 12, sort of. Either way, enjoy!)
Now “English” can mean a lot of things. When we say “English,” we mean a sort of pan-English Isles fantasy we have, that involves lots of friends who gather for fox-hunting on an English country estate: think Highclere Castle from Downton Abbey, except about 1/15th of the size. (Even in our fantasies we try to keep things realistic.) Except we don’t actually hunt the foxes; we all just try to take a photo. So it’s more like fox-startling. Though maybe that isn’t so nice, either. Apparently there are a lot of layers to this fantasy.
We wake up early in the morning as — one by one — our hale and hearty friends arrive on horseback, through the early morning mists. We gather in the great stone kitchen for a quick, hot breakfast before heading out on the moorland. Everyone’s decked up, and basically we go out riding around and goofing off.
Unfortunately, that’s about as in-depth as our imaginations go. But with that snippet of fantasy in mind, we found some of the stuff below: not all of it English, but most of it — we think — beautiful, adventurous, and fun. Full collection.
In the realm of social consciousness, fashion seems to have pushed to the absolute forefront in 2015.
Most popular music lost its way a long time ago — mired down in themes of cheap hyper-sexuality, status obsession and fantasies of eternal clubbing — and even comedy can’t seem to keep up. Fashion, long considered the ultimate status tool, reserved for a certain class or shape of people, has bitten back.
“Here,” fashion seems to be saying. “This is me. I am different. I am imperfect. And yet, I am fashion. I am BEAUTIFUL.”
“Here,” fashion seems to be saying. “This is me. I am different. I am BEAUTIFUL.”
From the advent of plus-size supermodels to the rise of humanistic blogs like Man Repeller, the revolution is on. And that new clarion call in fashion sounded perfectly — and beautifully — in the events from FTL Moda, in partnership with Art Hearts Fashion. The shows also feature some big name talent, in the form of Adriana Lima, among others.
From the advent of plus-size supermodels to the rise of humanistic blogs like Man Repeller, the revolution is on.
There are certain things in life you instantly realize you must own. Michael Kors’ silk Mandarin pajamas — as famously modeled by Grace Coddington — come to mind.
Grace wears Kors Mandarin Evening Pajamas at the airport. Via IG @TheRealGraceCoddington
It’s sort of like the first time you hear Joni Mitchell sing, “Watching your hairline recede, my vain darling,” and you think to yourself: “Wait, lyrics are allowed to do that?” But in the case of the pajamas, the revelation is more along the lines of: “Pajamas at the airport? Why did I think that was, somehow, off limits?” Suddenly the world seems to relax and make a little more sense.
The Row’s Olsen Twins wear Birkenstocks to the airport.
The next thing that comes to mind are the black Birkenstocks as worn by the The Row‘s Olsen twins. “Just slip your shoes off, mid-flight, without elbowing the businessman to your right, and bruising your elbow on the arm rest?” Genius!
Apparently one glance is all it takes to revolutionize your idea of glamorous travel. Grace may love her Louis Vuitton spinner, but to us, the height of style can only be achieved through the retro silhouette of this 119-year-old brand, whose clients have included Sir Winston Churchill, Queen Elizabeth II, and one of our favorite style icons, David Beckham.
One glance at Globe-Trotter is all it takes to revolutionize your idea of glamorous travel.
Globe-Trotter has a long and storied — one might even say, regal — history, but the brand still doesn’t shy away from partnerships with fun and cutting-edge brands such as Mastermind of Japan. Or, for that matter, James Bond.
Which brings us to Globe-Trotter’s new line of “Spectre” suitcases, produced to coincide with the release of the latest installment in the 50-year James Bond franchise.
While the James Bond aspect is appealing to a certain type of guy — or to a certain dimension of every guy — you don’t have to be a James Bond fan, or even a guy, to catch your breath while looking at a bag like this. (And if you saw Spectre, you may be pleased to see the Bond brand is undergoing an interesting bit of emotional maturation, which bodes well for a series refresh.)
Globe-Trotter’s new “Spectre” line comes in navy and black (although so far we’ve only seen the navy for sale), with brass hardware. Perhaps one of the most striking features is the luxe interior, that’s a little like staring into a pillowy night sky filled with stars.
One of the most striking features is the interior.
The line includes carry-on sizes for people like myself, too impatient to stand at the carousel, as well as a checked 30″ wheeled suitcase for those who actually like to prepare. The allure of Globe-Trotter, we think, is no less than the call of adventure itself. It’s hard to hold one without feeling you’re walking toward a Lockheed Electra on the eve of a mysterious journey. Picture a scene from Casablanca, Indiana Jones, or a page from Stephen Becker’s The Blue-Eyed Shan, and you’ve got the picture.
The allure of Globe-Trotter is the call of adventure itself.
Or if your inclinations tilt more amorous, consider the words of Anna Wintour (said of Oscar de la Renta), and picture yourself “hurrying across the Tuileries on a mysterious romantic assignment.”
Hurrying across the Tuileries on a mysterious romantic assignment — Anna Wintour
No matter where or how you travel this holiday season, we wish you safe and happy journeys.
Chances are pretty good you’ve seen the extremely popular Ambush Makeover segment during Hoda and Kathie Lee’s Today show hour.
If so, you’ve also probably heard both hosts singing the name of one of the key figures within that segment. His name is Louis Licari, “la, la, la, la, la, la” (in my best Hoda and Kathy Lee singing impression). Louis is the man who has worked with countless celebrities and projects, coloring women’s hair to perfectly match their skin tone, lifestyle and facial features.
Louis is the man who has worked with countless celebrities and projects, coloring women’s hair to perfection.
Tuesday evening of October 13th, 5th Ave. saw the likes of Calvin Klein, Grace Coddington, Sofia Coppola, Donna Karan, Fran Lebowitz, Katie Couric, and a host of other VIPs walking into a well lit-lobby and disappearing into an elevator. Their destination: the newly re-opened Louis Licari Salon. While in the elevator heading up to the opening, I wondered how the salon would look, who would come out to support, and how Louis would be in person: warm; off-putting; Hollywood-ish?
A magical, down-to-earth vibe carried the entire evening.
The moment the elevator door opened, I was immediately greeted by the receptionists with a warm welcome, and told to “go right in and enjoy.” That one statement was an indication of the magical, down-to-earth vibe that carried the entire evening. It seemed as the “who’s who” of New York turned out in support of one of the greatest colorists of our time.
It seemed as the “who’s who” of New York turned out in support of one of the greatest colorists of our time.
Immediately after turning the corner of the lobby I spotted Louis, Grace Coddington and Sofia Coppola: not a bad first sight, if I do say so myself. After calming myself from being in the presence of three people I’ve admired for years for their craft and genius, I shifted my attention to the salon itself.
The salon is beautifully appointed in every detail, from the washing chairs to the mirrors. But I don’t want to give too much away. Make an appointment and see for yourself. You will definitely thank me later.
I immediately spotted Grace Coddington and Sofia Coppola: not a bad first sight.
FWO Goes to Fashion Hideaway Monarch Rooftop Lounge
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
Mission: Enjoy one of the “fashion crowd’s” secret rooftop hideaways. A warm, lodge-inspired locale that could easily have substituted for the Switzerland’s Mürren resort in On Her Majesty’s Secret Service. Except with a decidedly Midtown spin (and without Blofeld’s Angels of Death).
This could have been the setting for On Her Majesty’s Secret Service, but without Blofeld’s Angels of Death.
Walk with me: A brisk yet clear evening in New York, fall newly in the air, and FWO is on our way to a cocktail / dinner menu media tasting at the Monarch Rooftop in Midtown. Boasting impressive views of the Manhattan skyline and a direct close-up view of the iconic Empire State Building, the Scandinavian décor doubles as the perfect atmosphere for a chic dining and drinking experience while still giving a history lesson in fine interior design.
As if the retro-modern ambiance and views of the legendary New York City weren’t enough, then came the food … the first platter shortbread wedges with a mildly spicy hummus dip, followed by a meats and cheese platter with a variety of thinly sliced meats and a selection of cheeses. Next, some of my favorites: mini crab cakes, Monarch flatbread drizzled with an amazing balsamic sauce, and two more platters featuring tiger shrimp dumplings and chipotle chicken empanadas … all exquisitely tasteful.
By now, any patron would be thirsty. The waitress, who was very knowledgeable about the drinks (thanks Katie), suggested the “Ryde or Die” drink first, but my eyes were set on the “Royal Cherry Banger,” with Grey Goose Vodka, Galliano, brandied cherries, fresh grapefruit juice, and orange peel. I made the right choice. Every element was on point, but after I ordered the “Painkiller” — and then the “Ryde or Die” — I was convinced Monarch’s mixologist was a pro. Each drink had its own distinct identity, in perfect balance. As I sipped the “Ryde or Die” (final drink of the evening ), I looked up at the Empire State Building and felt obligated to raise my glass and toast to Monarch and this great city of mine. Cheers.
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Editorial Note: Monarch NYC Rooftop is located at 71 W. 35th st. Corner of 6th Ave. (Avenue of the Americas) | Hours: M – Thur. 4pm-2am | Fri – Sat 4pm-4am | Sun 4pm – 2am. Thank you to Laura and Mav for the hospitality and the accommodations. (Also, apologies for the James Bond / Mission Impossible mixed metaphor. But it was totally worth it.)
Contemporary lifestyle brand Boy Meets Girl celebrated their Spring / Summer 2016 collection on September 12, with an intimate event that brought out the likes of Kendall Jenner, Hailey Baldwin, OITNB’s Emma Myles, Kimiko Glenn, Joel Marsh Garland & Laura Gomez, Randy Jackson, Justine Skye, Wil, & more. The Fun
Boy Meets Girl® is an edgy, yet wearable, stylish yet casually classic, young contemporary brand. The brand, currently sold in Nordstrom and on Nordstrom.com, offers graphics tops and bottoms, as well as jackets, sweaters and accessories.
Boy Meets Girl® Founder and Creative Director, Stacy Igel, has received several design awards and honors. As one of today’s leading trendsetters, Stacy and the brand have been featured in premier publications including Elle, InStyle, Teen Vogue, WWD, Seventeen, and the New York Times, among others and has been worn by high-profile fashionistas such as Kendall Jenner, Hailee Steinfeld, and Brittany Snow.
Dolce Vita Collection’s Laid Back, Luxe Handbags are Made for the “On the Go” Woman
by Chris Collie, NY Senior Editorial Director
I recently heard a fashion expert say, “Bags are no longer an accessory for women; they’re now an integral part of a woman’s wardrobe.” No truer words have been spoken when it comes to the modern, on the go woman. Not coincidentally, “on the go” is the exact description of the ideal woman given by Dolce Vita Collection’s founder Liz Hwang.
The streets of NYC gave birth to these bags, which have struck a chord with the effortlessly chic woman who wants to travel from the board room to a night out on the town. Thanks to Dolce Vita Collection, it’s an easy transition. Running to catch a cab for an evening soirée? Easy. Some bags convert to backpacks.
Running to catch a cab for an evening soirée? Some bags convert to backpacks.
We recently sat down to discuss her brand, experience the current F/W ’15 collection, and get an exclusive peek at the S/S ’16 collection.
Entering DV’s showroom, I was immediately greeted by the Dolce Vita logo, and DV’s Head of E-Commerce/Marketing Lisa Jackson. As Lisa escorted me to the conference room where I would be sitting down for an in-depth conversation with Liz, she explained they were in the midst of Market Week prep, so I would be the first to see the new collection. (Fashion gods shining down on me.)
Lisa explained I would be the first to see the new collection.
Next Liz walked into the conference room with the most pleasant smile and immediately thanked me for taking the time to show interest in the collection. Then she made me a friend for life, by offering me free reign of the giant candy jar at the centerpiece of the conference room table. I immediately thanked her and took note for indulging post-interview.
Q: Thank you Liz, for taking the time to sit with me. I know your time is limited, so I’ll make this brief. Considering how vast the handbag industry is, what differentiates Dolce Vita Collection in the marketplace?
Liz: We saw a white space in the handbag industry. So we focus on design as our differentiator, and translate it to the “Dolce Vita Woman.” This woman is stylish, aware, and constantly on-the-go.
Q: If you could have a conversation, and give advice to your younger self, what would that advice be?
Liz: Always listen to your customer because this [looking into the showroom area from the conference room] is all for them. They are your bosses in terms of what you do. They vote with their dollars.
Always listen to your customer because they vote with their dollars.
Q: What direction do you see for the identity of Dolce Vita Collection going forward?
Liz: I continue to see the collection making a mark as a niche brand. It is — and will continue to be — for the woman who wants something different and special.
Dolce Vita is for the woman who wants something different and special.
Q: Thank you Liz, for your answers; I wish you well with Dolce Vita and thank you for allowing me this tour of the S/S’16 Collection.
After shooting pictures of the showroom and the new collection, I spoke with Lisa, and informed her I would be following up with more questions to try and get a better idea of brand’s DNA.
Q: What’s the origin and background of the name, Dolce Vita?
Lisa: Dolce Vita Collection was founded in New York to empower the effortlessly cool individual who knows the “Sweet Life.” We provide timeless styles with a twist, so our handbags can sustain the on-the-go lifestyle of go-getters.
We want to empower the effortlessly cool individual who knows “the Sweet Life.”
Q: Which handbag in the collection has really resonated with your customer? Is there a signature piece that’s a staple of Dolce Vita Collection?
Catch a cab with ease. It converts to a backpack.
Lisa: The convertible backpacks have been extremely popular. Each of these handbags features removable shoulder straps, so they can be worn as a backpack or a shoulder bag, which has become an essential feature for women who need to seamlessly transition from day to night. These are signature features affiliated with the brand. Designed with the “Dolce Vita Woman” in mind, we’re known for offering convertible designs, bold colors, and beautiful custom hardware.
The convertible backpacks have been extremely popular.
Q: How did Liz decide that handbags were the niche of fashion where she thought she could excel?
Lisa: Liz has always had an exceptional talent for design and attention to detail. She also witnessed her father found our parent company, which continues to flourish 31 years to date! These are two of many factors that have played a role in her pursuit of developing her passion.
Q: With the digital age catching up with fashion, how is Dolce Vita Collection positioning itself to adapt?
Lisa: We recently relaunched our website to include integrated social content. Instagram photos from @DolceVitaHandbags are fed into the homepage and index page content streams. We also launched a new social media campaign on Instagram, Facebook, and Google+ featuring the inspiration of New York City coffee culture, plus a content series featuring young women who personify the Dolce Vita brand and our commitment to on-the-go fashion.
We recently relaunched our website to include integrated social content.
Q: What is coming down the pipeline for Dolce Vita in the near future?
Lisa: As a relatively new brand, we are consistently seeking out new ways to show appreciation to our customers. Therefore, stay tuned this holiday season to see a series of digital and offline appreciation events tailored with the “Dolce Vita Woman” in mind!
Stay tuned for a series of digital and offline appreciation events!
Editorial Note: The entire team at Dolce Vita Handbags were not only very welcoming, but knew their brand DNA and had a definite vision for their growth and expansion. They are definitely a brand FWO will be keeping an eye on.
What could be better than good-vibe, fashion week stars like DVF and Karlie Kloss?
Answer: Both of them together, in one playful project. Enjoy this new shopping collection, featuring items from the new “DVF: Secret Agent” collection, plus some jeans from the “Karlie Kloss Forever” collection from Frame Denim.
KarlieKloss and Diane von Fürstenberg: “Double O” Stylish.
DVF and Karlie Kloss Release DVF: Secret Agent
by Chris Collie, New York Editor
Consider this a love letter of sorts. A warm breeze on a summer day. The smell of cookies baking. Good times with friends and family. These are the feelings that Karlie Kloss and Diane von Furstenberg summon up.
They’re special in that way. There’s a warmth and a love that radiates from them; a down-to-earthness that makes the fashion business a little brighter and better for their presence.
The smell of cookies baking.
Ego has no place in their combined universe — their energy is spent on an effusion of good vibes directed toward others — and that makes their world a very special place to live.
So, needless to say, we were very excited to hear about the new Fall 2015 Collection campaign, featuring a short film by Polish-born photographer Peter Lindbergh, called DVF: Secret Agent.
Needless to say, we were pretty excited to hear about DVF: Secret Agent.
According to Diane von Fürstenberg: “The DVF Secret Agent bag, and the character Karlie plays, are really metaphors for the DVF woman. She is a businesswoman, a mother, a lover, a friend. She is always on-the-go. Now we have created the ultimate accomplice for every facet of the life she lives fully.”
She is a businesswoman, a mother, a lover, a friend.
The multi-dimensional quality of the bag is aptly reflected in the choice of Karlie Kloss as model, who’s known for bringing sizzle, sexuality and Swan Lake-intensity to her runway and editorial appearances, even as she’s known for creating baked goods for charity and supporting young women in learning to code.
The multi-dimensional quality of the bag is aptly reflected in the choice of Karlie Kloss as model.
Back in 1972, the young Austrian Princess von Furstenberg poses in a traditional dirndl at Hubertushof in Austria.
And it goes without saying that Diane von Furstenberg, herself, has led an über-multi-faceted life, which has included life as an Austrian princess, Studio 54 attendee, friend to Andy Warhol, creator of the wrap dress — most importantly, as she’s known to say — wife and mother.
But beyond the shape-shifting and role-playing, the video exhibits another hallmark of both the DVF and Karlie Kloss “brands.” It’s playful, fun, and doesn’t take itself too seriously.
“Effortless, sexy and on-the-go, [the DVF woman, as portrayed by Karlie Kloss] transitions seamlessly from day to night with the help of a handsome accomplice, her multi-faceted DVF Secret Agent bag, and a series of standout looks from the Fall 2015 Seduction collection.”
Interview with Ensar Oud: The Man Who Brought Oud to the West
photo from theolfactive.com
Possibly all geniuses are obsessives. “Obsessive. Opinionated. Poetic.” These are just a few words that would fall short of describing the breathtaking devotion of Ensar Oud to his craft.
(Please note: We’re reprinting this interview from 2011 as a complement to our interview with one of our favorite master perfumers, Kilian Hennessy. And for yet another obsessive artisan — of a very different variety — see our interview with the irascible Brent Black.)
“Oud Royale” – $6,999 (3 ml.) No longer available.
In the beautiful case of Ensar, the obsession is oud oil, a substance distilled from agarwood. Agarwood is a dark aromatic resin that forms on evergreen trees in Southeast Asia. It’s also endangered, one of the complex scents on earth, and — not surprisingly, as a result — one of the most expensive materials in the world.
Oud is one of the complex scents on earth.
Oud’s cultural and religious significance stretches back time immemorial: it appears in the Vedas, the works of Wa Zhen of the Eastern Wu Dynasty, and the Sahih Muslim.
A number of modern fragrances attempt to synthesize some of the notes of oud; and some of these, I confess, I like. But nothing prepares you for the complexities of the real thing, which can contain notes of everything from peanut butter to mint, to animal, all in the same whiff.
In the end, your nose will educate you profoundly. In the end, it really depends on the purity of your own understanding and heart. — Ensar Oud
Among purveyors of Agarwood, Ensar Oud stands at the forefront, with one of the most storied histories, hands-on productions and the most expensive collection for sale (with 29-year-old “Oud Royale” at the pinnacle for $6,999).*
His surprisingly personal and honest blog details his journeys: India, Burma, Borneo, Malaysia, Brunei, Cambodia and beyond. The funny thing is how much it really reads like a spiritual quest.
Q: How long have you been in the oud “business” (or maybe it’s more of a calling)? How did you get started in scent in general, and oud in particular? How has it been catching on in the West?
I contracted my oud craving back when I started attending the mystical gatherings of the Sufis. They’d always have these little stalls at the “bazaar” section, where all sorts of Sufi goods would be on offer, among them little greasy vials of oil called “oud.” Most of them nameless oils obtained from nameless sources. But the scent had its appeal.
I contracted my oud craving back when I started attending the mystical gatherings of the Sufis
Being somewhat of a snob by nature who could never be pleased with anything but the finest quality in all things, I started looking for higher and higher quality oils. The quest, needless to say, was extremely difficult.
Believe it or not, as recently as 2004 there was almost no awareness of oud in the West. Far from the fad it has now become, most folks did not even know oud existed. I packed my bags and started looking around the Gulf, initially, for the “perfume of the sultans and rulers of the Eastern lands”.
Believe it or not, as recently as 2004 there was almost no awareness of oud in the West.
This led nowhere, and all I ended up with was a collection of DOP-laced oils similar to the offerings of the major oud companies from the Gulf: Arabian Oud, Abdul Samad al Qurashi, Al Haramain, etc. These companies openly mix their oils. I’ve visited their factories in the UAE, met the staff, the chemists, and the “artisans” as some rookie internet entrepreneurs like to call them. There was nothing artisanal about it is all I can say, and I was grossly disappointed.
Heading to Amman to live by my Sheikh in early 2005, the Sheikh ordered me to travel to the Far East in quest of oud. “I want you to bring me back the finest oud oils in the world,” the Sheikh ordered me. The story is re-told in my blog.
in early 2005, the Sheikh ordered me to travel to the Far East in quest of oud. “I want you to bring me back the finest oud oils in the world.”
With his blessing, and by the grace of God, we were able to fool certain Quixotic souls into the profitless venture of distilling artisanal oud oil for us. Not caring about the costs, the potential major losses if the distillations went bad, we soon ended up with oils that are to this date referred to as Oud Legends by fellow distillers, collectors, entrepreneurs, what have you: Kyara LTD, Borneo 3000, Royal Kinam, Borneo 4000. And the list went on.
How has it been catching on in the West? That is a funny question. And I crack up as I say this, because now everyone, including previous customers of Ensar Oud, have launched their own website, with their own “Beginner’s Guide,” “Starter’s Guide,” “Oud Guide,” Oud Regions, Origins, what have you; and everything else as we had it arranged on our old site.
Everyone now distills oils worthy of the title Oud Royale [an extremely famous Ensar Oud Legend]; and recently someone even juiced an “LTD” oil. No doubt, everyone is now a purveyor of “the highest quality oud oils in the world” in his own right.
I recall a poem by W.B. Yeats titled “To A Poet, Who Would Have Me Praise Certain Bad Poets, Imitators Of His And Mine.” It goes something like this:
You say, as I have often given tongue In praise of what another’s said or sung, ‘Twere politic to do the like by these; But was there ever dog that praised his fleas?
So in short, oud’s been catching on, that’s for sure. Needless to say, what money-driven exploits do is water down the meaning of the word “oud” in the West as it was watered down long ago in the East, where it no longer stands for the pure essential oil of the Aquilaria tree but for a mere scent family. “Oud” scented tissue papers are readily available in the supermarkets of Amman.
“Oud” scented tissue papers are readily available in the supermarkets of Amman.
Ever smelled “musk” hand lotion at your local pharmacy? How much genuine deer musk would you guess is in there? Well … that’s how much oud is in most “oud” fragrances being mass-marketed at present.
Q: You’ve been all over the world in search of oud. What drives you? What has been your most memorable experience?
This oil has a soul. It has the power to transcend the senses and put you in touch with a higher reality most people seldom get to experience, entrapped as they are in the hustle and bustle of everyday life. Some meditate. Others do yoga. Others do drugs. Others dance. Yet others wear Oud Nuh. The spiritual pull is something very palpable and unmistakable in our oils.
This oil has a soul. It has the power to transcend the senses and put you in touch with a higher reality.
I’ve always wanted to go to Laos, and produce the foulest, most fecal specimens of oud the world has ever smelled. For some reason, I’ve never made it. While the appeal of “oud” has caught on in the West, the appeal of the “fecal” varieties of Assam and other types of Indo-Chinese oils has yet to develop.
Q: The search of oud seems like a developed intuition. What kind of climate is ideal? How do you know when you’re on the right track?
The extremely moist, tropical climates of Assam, Indochina and Indonesia are ideal for producing oud. While almost all over Indochina wild oud has been harvested to extinction, there are certain areas of Assam, Borneo and Papua that still produce wild agarwood. I have absolutely no interest in the cultivated varieties of agarwood. I’ve always meant to write an article to explain the differences, just never got to it.
Q: Very generally speaking, how do ouds differ from region to region?
The same way teas differ from climate to climate, so do ouds.
Each climate is unique, each soil has a different mineral content, the water used to treat the wood differs in each jungle; these are all factors that contribute to the different aromas of oud oils. Most importantly though, different species of oud trees grow in different jungles. This is the most significant factor that dictates the differences between each region’s juice.
Different species of oud trees grow in different jungles.
Q: You work hands-on with numerous distillers, and you have a reputation for being stringent and exacting. What sorts of things do you require from your distillers that are usually neglected?
For one, I demand that incense quality oud be used in the distillation of the oils. This will automatically disqualify most distillers. Many have even thought I was playing a practical joke when I presented this demand to them.
Secondly, I don’t want the oil to be “pasteurized and homogenized” as it is for distribution to the Gulf market and other Internet retailers. I want each batch to be labelled individually so I can study the different factors that went into the distillation and see the impact they carry on the resulting oil. Another distiller got into a mix-up with his brother when he tried to implement this for my sake. Now, thankfully, we have our own still in each distillery, and our oils are distilled separately from other suppliers’.
Q: It’s been said that one way to get in touch with the spiritual is through the senses. Although the senses are usually thought of as a “lower” faculty, in a way they can be said to be closer to the holy or spiritual because they are untainted by the vagaries of our mind, and a direct connection to the world as created by the Creator. Perhaps, as a sincere appreciation of the world as it is, they can be said to be an expression of gratitude, and thus a kind of prayer. Do you believe this? Or perhaps, what do you see as the connection between the olfactory and the spiritual?
With heart and soul, yes, that is exactly what I believe! You have summarized the spiritual journey most eloquently in your question, my friend. In our spiritual tradition, fragrance is perhaps the only material thing that carries a significance so great wearing it is considered an act of worship.
In our spiritual tradition, fragrance is perhaps the only material thing that carries a significance so great wearing it is considered an act of worship.
The Prophet Muhammad (peace and blessings be upon him) used to say, “Beloved to me from your world are women and perfume, and the coolness of my eyes is in prayer.” If you study that statement closely, you’ll quickly realize the only material “thing” he really loved from the world was perfume. Women are people, one’s spiritual as well as physical partners and companions. And the prayer is an action, not a material “thing.” So perfume was the only worldly possession that the most spiritual of men was fond of. That says a lot.
Perfume was the only worldly possession that the most spiritual of men was fond of.
Fragrant greetings to you Pablo. Please do keep in touch.
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(*Note: Most products from the original interview are no longer available. And the state of oud, as predicted by Ensar, has changed considerably as well. For current products and information updates, please visit EnsarOud.com.)
2015 was a year of some pretty wonderful revolutions: more rights for more people. More inclusivity both on and off the runway.
As if the retro-modern ambiance and views of the legendary New York City weren’t enough, then came the food … the first platter shortbread wedges with a mildly spicy hummus dip, followed by a meats and cheese platter with a variety of thinly sliced meats and a selection of cheeses. Next, some of my favorites: mini crab cakes, Monarch flatbread drizzled with an amazing balsamic sauce, and two more platters featuring tiger shrimp dumplings and chipotle chicken empanadas … all exquisitely tasteful.
By now, any patron would be thirsty. The waitress, who was very knowledgeable about the drinks (thanks Katie), suggested the “Ryde or Die” drink first, but my eyes were set on the “Royal Cherry Banger,” with Grey Goose Vodka, Galliano, brandied cherries, fresh grapefruit juice, and orange peel. I made the right choice. Every element was on point, but after I ordered the “Painkiller” — and then the “Ryde or Die” — I was convinced Monarch’s mixologist was a pro. Each drink had its own distinct identity, in perfect balance. As I sipped the “Ryde or Die” (final drink of the evening ), I looked up at the Empire State Building and felt obligated to raise my glass and toast to Monarch and this great city of mine. Cheers.
With his blessing, and by the grace of God, we were able to fool certain Quixotic souls into the profitless venture of distilling artisanal oud oil for us. Not caring about the costs, the potential major losses if the distillations went bad, we soon ended up with oils that are to this date referred to as 
