Analogue fitting photographs shot by Mr. Gaultier himself were the starting point. Showcasing the 1997 collection, they were developed into a trompe-l’œil print.
For this first Pre-Spring 27 “Le Vestiaire 1” collection, designer Duran Lantink also takes inspiration from iconic Jean Paul Gaultier themes, reinterpreting them through a contemporary lens to create a range of wearable yet playful garments. The collection explores the development of a cohesive wardrobe composed of pieces designed to move effortlessly between seasons, occasions, and ways of dressing.
Jean Paul Gaultier
Sailor, military, and biker references run throughout the collection. Shirts and outerwear are adorned with printed medals and chevrons, high collars evoke protective gear, and anchor-detailed belts provide a finishing touch to the silhouettes. The exploration of proportion and transformation remains central to the collection’s design language, expressed through blown-up trompe-l’œil effects, a padded bomber dress, an inverted lapel skirt, and an upside-down slip-shirt dress. These introduce subtle disruption while remaining grounded in wearability.
A natural continuation of Fall/Winter 2026, tailoring, sportswear, and elegance meet once again. Brown pinstripes appear alongside a nylon suit-jacket dress and a drop-shoulder vest and jacket. Conical bras, tire-inspired jewelry, and distinctive footwear return not as seasonal statements, but as wardrobe staples.
For his first venture into a Pre-Spring collection, Duran Lantink approaches dressing as a wardrobe built through continuity, transformation, and lasting relevance.
