Academy of Art Spring 2018: New York Fashion Week

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Academy of Art NYFW SS18

The School of Fashion at Academy of Art University premiered the Spring 2018 and Fall 2018 collections of ten recent BFA and MFA graduates at New York Fashion Week. What was most surprising about the collection was the fact that this was “student” work. The craftsmanship and imagination displayed in a wide range of styles shows that these designers are already more-than ready for prime time.

 
Academy of Art: NYFW SS18

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Hailun Zhou @hailunzhou

Hailun Zhou, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Qing Dao, China. For this collection, Zhou was inspired by her observations and the photographs she took while “on a journey” from San Francisco to the Oakland Museum of California @oaklandmuseumca, as well as the abstract sculpture “Volume and Space Organization” by artist Knud Merrild.

“The combination of transparency and the use of letters are what I find most interesting,” said Zhou, who even incorporated the geographical location of the museum into her designs. Materials for her collection include vinyl and PVC, as well as fabrics she created by fusing different materials together.

Look 1: Richie: Silver Peter Pan color dress with clear raincoat Look 2: Militsa: Silver top with blue skirt
Look 3: Anastasia: Pink sleeveless vest with clear cape and silver pants Look 4: Chanel: Blue top and pink skirt
Look 5: Dominique: Pink Peter Pan color double layered top with double layered skirt Look 6: Bongjoo: Blue Peter Pan color jacket with silver pants

Eden Slezin @designereden

Eden Slezin, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in the Bay Area. Slezin was inspired by his “life and loves” for his sustainable menswear collection that he created with locally sourced organic fabrics and recycled materials including organic twill, organic denim, recycled cotton, and recycled rubber. The use of denim represents his working-class upbringing and favorite denim piece which is a1940s U.S. Navy uniform jacket replica.

He used natural dyes with no chemicals and electric hand sanders for the denim plaid, argyle and stripe surface prints. Other noticeable influences throughout his collection include school uniforms as a nod to his age and his celebration of eternal youth, fetish wear due to being a gay man in San Francisco and for his commitment to individuality, and the military because “I was a U.S. Marine Corps Officer for six years, and served in Operation Iraqi Freedom,” said Slezin.

He used natural dyes with no chemicals and electric hand sanders

Three companies sponsored his collection by donating fabric: @ConeDenim for organic denim, @AmourVert for white stripe and white check shirting, and @SportsBasement for recycled rubber bike tubes. While a student at the Academy, Slezin was a finalist in the Old Navy Design competition (2016), and the CFDA Elaine Gold Launch Pad (2017).

Look 7: Eli: White check shirt with weaved rubber tank top and with white denim shorts and rubber gaiters Look 8: Max: White denim dungarees and short sleeved white shirt and tie
Look 9: Lukas: Dark denim shirt with dark denim jacket and shorts with sanded treatment and rubber gaiters Look 10: Tay: Dark denim shirt and tie with flap fronted dark denim pants
Look 11: Cesar: Gray checked overalls
Look 12: Oumar: Denim overall with sanded treatment and rubber inserts
Look 13: Youssouf: Large checked poncho with sanded treatment white shirt and denim pants Look 14: Serge: Argyle denim tank top with rubber shorts and rubber gaiters

Additional information on the sponsors of Eden Slezin’s collection:
▪ Organic denim from @ConeDenim. With showrooms in New York and San Francisco, ConeDenim has been a leading supplier of denim fabrics to apparel brands since 1891. Formed out of the entrepreneurial spirit of brothers Moses and Ceasar Cone and grounded in American heritage, Cone Denim has been synonymous with authenticity and innovation. Cone Denim’s collections include denim created on vintage looms, denim made with 100% natural plant indigo, performance denim, and sustainable denim made with EarthSpun® recycled yarns.
▪ White stripe and white check shirting from Amour Vert, one of San Francisco’s ardent supporters of sustainability. Meaning ‘green love’ in French, the design house was founded on the belief that great fashion and social responsibility can coexist. In fact, Amour Vert practices their philosophy giving directly back to nature with their ‘tee to tree’ program; for every purchase of a tee (t-shirt), Amour Vert plants a tree in North America through their partner American Forest®. As a design intern for the retailer, Slezin expanded his education of sustainable design; Amour Vert supported Slezin’s vision with the donation of extra shirting yardage for his collection.
▪ Recycled rubber bike tubes from Sports Basement. Founded in 1998 in a warehouse located in San Francisco’s Mission Bay neighborhood, Sports Basement has since grown to eight huge stores throughout the Bay Area. A spokesperson for the company stated that they are “thrilled that one of their favorite general managers [Eden Slezin] has found such an inspiring way to support sustainability, and even more thrilled to be his source for materials!” Slezin integrated the company’s recycled bicycle tire tubes into his collection, weaving them together to enhance the garments and accessories. A supporter of sustainability, Sports Basement collect shoes for the needy, provides free refills for their re-useable propane canisters, and, collects energy bar wrappers, climbing ropes, and yoga mats for various new uses.

Dina Marie Lam @f.r.o.m_dinamarie / Carlos Rodriguez @carlos.rodgz / Rheanna Oliver-Palanca @ropalanca

Dina Marie Lam, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Los Angeles, California. Inspired by the myriad of emotions surrounding the passing of her aunt, Lam wanted to convey a feeling of transition in her collection. She selected soft and luxurious materials to evoke warmth and comfort. Lam was honored with the BCBG Max Azria Super Intern (2017) recognition, presented annually one outstanding intern across the entire company.

Carlos Rodriguez, BFA Fashion Design, was born in Mexico City, Mexico and grew up in Clarksburg, California. He created the embroidery using a mixture of traditional hand and machine embroidery techniques to enhance the contemporary feel of Dina Marie’s collection. Recently, Rodriguez interned at fashion tech startup Savitude.

Rheanna Oliver-Palanca, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Kennebunk, Maine. Her wool blend knitwear mimicked Rodriguez’s embroidery and was worn by Oumie in look 17.

Look 15: Adela: Long embodied coat with shirt and pants
Look 16: Shiyi: White shirt with embroidery/printed long vest and pants
Look 17: Oumie: White shirt with dungarees and hanging jacket and embroidered knit sweater Look 18: Anett: White shirt with pants and quilted tunic jumpsuit with quilted coat
Look 19: Nova: Shirt with printed/embroidered tunic with split pants
Look 20: Nicole: Long shirt with quilted top with hanging jacket and short split pants Look 21: Darina: Long quilted coat with jumpsuit

Saya Shen @Shiin_Shen

Saya Shen, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Beijing, China. For her debut collection, she was inspired by the black and white photography of Michael Kenna for her own personal photographs that she took of scenes in nature such as landscapes, trees, ocean waves, and the topography of San Francisco. The snow forms she saw when visiting Hokkaido, Japan last winter were the inspiration for the oversized silhouette seen throughout her collection. “We were in the mountains where everything was completely covered in snow. We were surrounded by nature and the snow was untouched and beautiful. I designed the collection to be oversized like the snow forms, and to be comfortable as the scene was so peaceful,” says Saya in reference to her voluminous garments that wrapped around each of the show models like fluffy hills of snow.

The snow forms of Hokkaido were the inspiration

Saya worked with Kornit Digital @kornitdigital to digitally print the fabric used in her collection with her landscape photographs. Kornit Digital develops, manufactures and markets industrial and commercial solutions for the garment, apparel and fabric industry. Leading the digital textile industry with its integrated pretreatment solution and its NeoPigment™ inks, it directly caters to the needs of both designers and manufacturers. Kornit is revolutionizing the roll fabric industry by enabling printing with one ink set on all kinds of fabrics.

Look 22: Giedre: Printed quilted puff dress with Ocean beach print
Look 23: Danielle: Printed quilted puff jacket with one tree print and layered print pants Look 24: Mame: Printed quilted coat with blurred and one tree print and repeat print dress Look 25: Joony: Printed side split coat with hood and printed skirt and top
Look 26: Richie: Printed puff collar jacket with printed wide leg pants and printed top Look 27: Chanel: Printed A-Line Quilted puff coat and printed dress

Joanna Jadallah @joannajadallah / Cana Klebanoff @cana_klebanoff

Joanna Jadallah, BFA Menswear Design, was born in Chicago, Illinois and grew up in Orange County of California. For this collection, Jadallah was inspired by the strength of her ancestors who were forced to flee Palestine leaving their belongings and everything familiar behind. This collection captures the beauty of her culture and conveys elements of her ancestor’s story. The collection includes the use of light weight wool, suiting fabrics, lambskin leather, cashmere knits, and brocades.

Cana Klebanoff, BFA Knitwear Design, was born in Queens, New York and grew up in Monmouth County, New Jersey.

Inspired by the armor of a Japanese culture, samurai armor, as well as nature and the architecture of castles. His pieces communicate wearable comfort alongside a sense of pride and strength. Klebanoff interned for San Francisco-based designer, Joseph Domingo (2011-2014), and was awarded the San Francisco-Paris Sister City Scholarship Exchange to study for a full academic year in Paris, France at Studio Berçot (2017-2018).

Joanna and Cana combined their passions to create a menswear collection of interesting silhouettes and surprising textures. “While our inspirations were different, our silhouettes were similar,” said Joanna. “We bring complementary perspectives to the table,” added Cana who had flown in from Paris a few days before the Saturday show, flew back on Sunday in order to begin classes at Studio Berçot on Monday.

Look 28: Eli: Patterned pants with leather top long cardigan and leather belt strap Look 29: Max: Gray sweater with leather T-shirt and navy pants
Look 30: Lukas: Large cable knit sweater with woven top and wide leg pants Look 31: Tay: Ladder knit sweater with leather pant and woven top
Look 32: Cesar: Long purple sweater with knit pants and leather belt strap Look 33: Oumar: Ruched sleeved top with knitted pants
Look 34: Youssouf: Patterned knit top with leather T-shirt and ruffle wide leg pants Look 35: Serge: Leather T-shirt with wide leg navy pant and leather belt strap

Ryan Yu @zynewyork

Ryan Yu, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Shenyang, Liaoning, China. For his collection, Yu was inspired by the expression of light and the philosophy of how it leads us from darkness which came about while listening to his favorite song, “In the Light” by Led Zeppelin. He felt that the concept of darkness versus light would be “a good starting point for my collection” and conveyed this through the bold contrast of black and white in patent leather, jersey, and wool that he locally sourced in the Bay Area. Yu believes that construction is the foundation of fashion. To achieve the clean lines, shapes and silhouette, he focused on the construction of his garments.

While some in the audience at NYFW: The Shows commented on the futuristic silhouette of his debut collection, others saw an appreciable references to the 1980s. Both may be correct but one thing is for sure, he was correct. Construction is the foundation of fashion.

Look 36: Anastasia: Black and white long tunic with pant
Look 37: Dominique: Black and white graphic top with black and white graphic pants Look 38: Militsa: White top with black neck graphic and white pants with black graphic
Look 39: Bongjoo: Jersey black top with black and white graphic with black and white pants Look 40: Adela: Black and white graphic tunic with black and white graphic jumpsuit
Look 41: Shiyi: Black jumpsuit with white graphic

Jelly Shan @jellysss

Jelly Shan, MFA Fashion Design, was born and raised in Hangzhou, Zhejiang, China. Her collection was inspired by the sense of peace and joy she experienced while visiting Northwest China. The religious environment such as the monks, temples, and clothing were especially interesting to her. The prayer flags that covered the mountain sides and were faded by years in the wind and sun inspired her to try different techniques on her cotton fabrics so achieve the faded colors. “When people would pray, they prayed for goodness and for others,” said Shan. “I want my collection to make people feel peaceful and full of joy.” Shan has interned as a designer at the Shanghai-based womenswear label Shushu/Tong, and at Max Studio by Russian-American fashion designer and retailer Leon Max.

Look 42: Oumie: Yellow rope detailed dress over pant
Look 43: Nova: Blue long sleeve dress with long rope detailed vest Look 44: Nicole: Blue double layered top with rope detailed pant Look 45: Darina: Pink rope top with pink dot skirt
Look 46: Anett: Pink rope dot top with long rope and ruffle skirt Look 47: Joony: Yellow slashed sleeve top with yellow rope dress Look 48: Danielle: Pink rope jacket with pink long dress
Look 49: Mame: Rope skirt with top and pink ruffle slashed sleeved jacket

About Academy of Art University at NYFW

“The first New York Fashion Week (NYFW) show was in September 2005 when the Master of Fine Arts degree program in fashion design was a well established accredited degree program. In 1996, Bobby Hillson, founder of the MA at Central St Martins, Ike Rust, MA Menswear Course Director at Westminster, and Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, were brought in to rewrite the curriculum.

The caliber of work we saw from students enrolled in the program proved that the NYFW show was an ideal stage to debut the collections of recent graduates who had received their MFA in fashion design,” said Dr. Elisa Stephens, President of Academy of Art University. “We are committed to working with our graduates to help launch their careers, and are honored to have a platform of this magnitude at NYFW: The Shows to present their work. The show now includes BFA designers and each season there is an increase in the number of industry professionals in attendance such as retail executives, designers, recruiters, and the media.”

Ten designers presented a total of five womenswear and two menswear collections in the Academy NYFW show with two of the collections being collaborative efforts. Earlier in the year, four of the designers, Hailun Zhou, Eden Slezin, Dina Marie Lam, and Rheanna Oliver-Palanca, were selected to showcase their work on another amazing platform: the Fashion Future Graduate Showcase (FFGS) launched by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) and the New York City Economic Development Corporation (NYCEDC) in response to the vital need to support fashion graduates during their transition from education to career development.

Academy of Art University was honored to join the inaugural showcase along with four other schools. In total, 85 graduates were invited to participate with 23 of them from Academy of Art University. They were each provided a booth at the curated exhibition that took place on May 23rd and 24th at Center 415, an AES NYC Event Space, in Manhattan. A bespoke section of the CFDA’s website was created to provide a high-profile platform in which to market their work. Their profiles and lookbooks will remain on the site for an entire year, giving them exposure during this important next step in their careers.

“I am thrilled that this showcase for fashion graduates has been created,” said Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion at Academy of Art University. “This type of venue has been missing from the U.S. fashion education cycle for way too long, and it feels to be completely the right time to happen, and for Academy of Art University graduates to participate. It is deeply important for graduates from different schools to meet each other, share their work, and introduce themselves to industry as the next step to moving into their careers. The commitment to the industry and education shown by the CFDA and NYCEDC is what will lead us into the future.”

When asked about the ten designers selected to debut collections in the Academy NYFW show, Ungless responded, “working with them has been an honor for me. A group like this does not come along often enough. They have built solid friendships through the process of collection development and have become a team. Each collection has an individual spirit yet the process has been executed as a collective. The craftsmanship and techniques are couture and warrant a trip down the runway. Each designer has already achieved a level of success while maintaining maturity and humility that is rarely seen.”

Jayne Foster, Graduate Director of Fashion, who works closely with Unlgess added, “Every year our designers have shown an amazing showcase of their talent and this year is no exception. This group has crafted each collection, and every piece within their collection has its own unique identity. They have stayed true to their vision and pushed their creative process into collections that show exploration of silhouette and textile techniques. These are the designers who will inspire and lead the next generation of new creatives. It has been a privilege to work with them.

About Academy of Art University

Academy of Art University, the largest private university of art and design in the United States, is educating students to excel in the jobs of the 21st century. Established in 1929, the Academy offers accredited degree programs in more than 30 areas of study, as well as continuing art education, pre-college art experience programs, professional development, certificates, and teacher grants. Students are taught by a faculty of professionals from the existing marketplace, both online and on campus in San Francisco, who provide them with an understanding of what it takes to succeed in today’s business environment. The Academy’s hands-on curriculum produces graduates who possess outstanding artistic and design skills, the ability to put those tools to work immediately after graduation, and an entrepreneurial spirit that tends to stick with them for life. AA, BA, BFA, BS, B.Arch, MA, MFA, and M.Arch degree programs are available in Acting, Advertising, Animation & Visual Effects, Architecture, Art Education, Art History, Art Teaching Credential, Automotive Restoration, Costume Design, Drone Production, Fashion, Fashion Journalism, Fashion Marketing, Fashion Merchandising, Fashion Product Development, Fashion Styling, Fashion Visual Merchandising, Fine Art, Game Development, Game Programming, Graphic Design, Illustration, Industrial Design (Transportation, Toy, & Product Design), Interior Architecture & Design, Jewelry & Metal Arts, Landscape Architecture, Motion Pictures & Television, Multimedia Communications, Music Production & Sound Design for Visual Media, Photography, Social Media, Studio Production for Advertising & Design, Virtual Reality, Visual Development, Web Design & New Media, Web Development, and Writing for Film, Television & Digital Media. Students can also enroll in flexible online degree programs in most areas of study. Academy of Art University is an accredited member of WSCUC, NASAD, CIDA (BFA-IAD, MFA-IAD), NAAB (B.ARCH., M.ARCH.) and CTC (California Teacher Credential).

About the School of Fashion

Students pursuing a Fashion Design degree from Academy of Art University learn from the finest creative minds working in fashion today, and have access to the tools and cutting-edge facilities needed for creating collections that garner accolades. Fashion students the world over gain experience designing styles that are the future of the industry the following areas of specialization: Fashion Design for Womenswear, Menswear, and Childrenswear; Technical Design; Textile Design; Knitwear Design; Accessory Design; Costume Design; Fashion Illustration; Fashion Journalism; Fashion Marketing and Brand Management; Fashion Styling; Fashion Merchandising; Fashion Product Development; and Visual Merchandising.

The University works with international brands and recruitment agencies on internships and job placement. Graduates have gone on to such companies as Abercrombie & Fitch, Adidas, Alexander McQueen, Azzedine Alaïa, Banana Republic, BCBG Max Azria, Bill Blass, Blanc de Chine, Burberry, Calvin Klein, Corso Como 10, Chloë, Diane von Fürstenberg, Donna Karan, Gap, Kate Spade, Kiton, L.A.M.B., L’Ecole Lesage Paris–Atelier de Broderie, Liz Claiborne, Louis Vuitton, Marc Jacobs, Martin Margiela, Martine Sitbon, Missoni, Nike, Nordstrom, The North Face, Old Navy, Oscar de la Renta, Phillip Lim, Pottery Barn, Ralph Lauren, Reebok, Roland Mouret, St. John, Threeasfour, Tocca, Viktor & Rolf, and Williams-Sonoma.

Guests to the School of Fashion include Zaid Affas, Azzedine Alaïa, Prosper and Martine Assouline, Max and Lubov Azria of BCBG Max Azria Group, Yigal Azrouël, Geoffrey Beene, Mickey Boardman of Paper Magazine, Rose Marie Bravo, Alex Brownless of Arts Thread, Sarah Jane Burton OBE for Alexander McQueen, Andrew Buckler, Julie Chaiken, Kenneth Cole, The Honorable Bertrand Delanoë Mayor of Paris, David Downton, Steven Cox and Daniel Silver of Duckie Brown, Patrik Ervell, Loulou de la Falaise, James Galanos, Lisa Smilor and Sara Kozlowski of the Council of Fashion Designers of America, Joan Kaner, Humberto Leon and Carol Lim of Opening Ceremony, Antonio Lopez, Fern Mallis, Alexander McQueen, Rosita and Tai Missoni, Angela Missoni, Margherita Maccapani Missoni, Isaac Mizrahi, Josie Natori, Ian Hannula and Joe Haller of N.I.C.E. Collective, Elisa Palomino, Laure du Pavillon, Lars Byrresen Petersen of Visionaire, Zac Posen, Oscar de la Renta, Zandra Rhodes CBE, Kate and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte, Ralph Rucci, Nathalie Rykiel, HRH Princess Reema Bandar Al-Saud, Jeremy Scott, Carla Sozzani, Philip Treacy, Walter Van Beirendonck, Dirk van Saene, and Dame Vivienne Westwood DBE, as well as Christophe Girard Director of Fashion Strategy of LVMH Fashion Group, Tim Blanks, Robin Givhan, Cathy Horyn, Suzy Peta Menkes OBE, Sarah Mower MBE, and Joe Zee.

About School of Fashion Directors

Simon Ungless, Executive Director of the School of Fashion, graduated from Central Saint Martins School of Art and Design in 1992 and was awarded the prestigious M.A. Degree in Fashion with Distinction. He collaborated with Alexander McQueen on the first 10 collections shown in London and New York, and personally introduced Sarah Burton, Creative Director of Alexander McQueen, to the late designer. In 2002, he was named Creative Director of Member Holiday, a Korean-based contemporary brand, launching both men’s and women’s collections with 37 freestanding stores. His work experience spans fashion design, textile design, forecasting, brand development, and marketing for such clients as Givenchy, Paul Smith, and Versace. In addition to his duties as the Executive Director of the School of Fashion overseeing both M.F.A. and B.F.A. programs, he is the editorial director of the School of Fashion’s 180 Magazine, as well as the executive producer of the annual Graduation Fashion Show, Portfolio Review, and Scholarship Award Ceremony, and the biannual New York Fashion Week show. Currently, Ungless operates two artisanal design companies, When Simon Met Ralph, which focuses on apparel, and Blackened, which centers on accessories and home. Both projects are the culmination of Ungless’ inspirational development work over his career.

Jayne Foster, Graduate Director of Fashion, graduated from The Royal College of Art with a M.A. in Womenswear. She has designed for a private label that showed in London, Paris, and New York. Her freelance clients included House of Fraser, Urban Outfitters, and Whistles. She created a collection of concept designs for Burton Snowboards the main women’s range and the younger B by Burton range, designed textiles for Hop Lun Lingerie, and had her fashion illustration work exhibited in London galleries. Before joining the School of Fashion in 2012, she taught design for eight years in London, and designed for the British brand Monsoon.

Gary Miller, Director of Fashion, has more than 16 years of experience in New York and London as a fashion director. His design scope encompasses building and maintaining a brand’s identity, initiating a start-up concept, reinvigorating an existing line, and nurturing an ongoing successful brand. For many years, he worked as a Design Director for men’s sportswear division at Macy’s Merchandising Group in New York. Previously, he worked at The Men’s Wearhouse, Wilke-Rodriguez, Here and There (now part of The Doneger Group), and Michiko Koshino. He holds a B.A. in Fashion Design with Textiles from Ravensbourne College of Design and Communication in the U.K.

Sharon Murphy, Graduate Director of Fashion Merchandising, graduated with a B.A. from Ohio State University, and has held management positions in product development, sourcing, manufacturing, and fashion retailing. She worked for Esprit de Corp on domestic and international levels with a focus on the development of fabrics and apparel for contemporary, junior, and children’s markets. Murphy joined the School of Fashion as an instructor in 2001. She continues to work with Venice Collaborative, sourcing textiles and related materials for the group’s architecturally and artistically expressive residential projects in Venice, California.

Jinah Oh, Director of Fashion Merchandising, earned her M.B.A. in Marketing at Golden Gate University in San Francisco, as well as a B.S. in Clothing and Textiles and a B.A. in Philosophy from EWHA Women’s University in Seoul, Korea. She has extensive experience in international fashion and luxury brands. With Escada Asia, she developed business and market strategies, managed merchandising and buying for multiple brands, pioneered and initiated brick and mortar and e-commerce channel development. Later with Cartier, Richemont Korea Ltd., she oversaw retail operations and all aspects of retail marketing activities for the Korean market.

Iliana Ricketts, was appointed to Director of Online Fashion in 2014, Assistant Director of Online Fashion in 2009, and held the position of Fashion Department Coordinator since 2005. Prior to arriving to the U.S., Iliana was established as a recognized designer in her country of Bulgaria. She received her M.F.A. in Fashion Design from Academy of Art University. In 2002, she launched ‘ILYA,’ a designer ready-to-wear label sold nationally in stores such as Henri Bendel. Her line was also seen on the HBO television series, Sex And The City. In 2004, she became head designer of the boutique and golf line GGblue. Under her creative direction, GGblue became one of the most successful and fashion- forward brands in the golf and leisure industry.

Stephan Rabimov, Director of Fashion Journalism & Social Media Center, has ten years of experience in digital and print publishing, journalism, social media, public relations and marketing. He is Publisher/Editor-in-Chief of DEPESHA, and a contributing writer to The Huffington Post and Forbes International. Stephan has lectured at Johns Hopkins University and at The Museum at Fashion Institute of Technology. Stephan was also Executive Fashion Editor for FourTwoNine magazine since May 2011, and Founder of RABIMOV Public Relations Agency since May 2010, successfully launching Thom Browne, Rubin Singer, and Custo Barcelona in Russia. Stephan directly managed the opening of Nicola Formichetti’s pop-up store in New York City as well as produced runway shows featuring emerging international designers during New York, St. Petersburg, Toronto, and Vancouver Fashion Weeks. Stephan has been interviewed and published across dozens of publications, including The New York Times, Russia Beyond The Headlines Edition, Women’s Wear Daily, L’Officiel Ukraine, Vogue Russia, Wall Street Journal, Forbes, CNN, Yahoo Style, Examiner, and The Huffington Post.

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FWO

Malone Souliers Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Into the Woods: Malone Souliers London Fashion Week SS18

Atimeless space imagination and the surrealism of fairytales — source and inspiration for the new SS18 shoe collection of designer Mary Alice Malone, which was presented in a playful woodland forest next to Buckingham Palace at London Fashion Week.

Surrounded by darkness, equipped with a torch in lipstick-size, London’s fashion society flocked to 12 Hay Hill, London, to find Malone as colorful as furry shoes between moss and fern.

 
Malone Souliers: London Fashion Week SS18

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Feminine British footwear brand Malone Souliers disrupted London’s sparkling fashion scene with a fairytale landscape that welcomed us on a journey of surrealism and a timeless space of reckless imagination.

By channeling stories from once upon a time, Malone emphasizes her collection is a guide to self-discovery and gratitude for the human heart.

Everlasting shoes co-created by supermodel and philanthropist Natalia Vodianova were lit up in lurex glitter, shades of green, turquoise, and fuchsia.

Believing in the happy ending, fifty percent of proceeds will benefit the Naked Heart Foundation.

50% of proceeds will benefit the Naked Heart Foundation

Following the women’s line, the second collection of Malone’s children’s footwear — perfectly fitted and supporting the feet of three girls dangling on swings — was also introduced.

Dive deep into the woods to discover that which exists somewhere, somehow, eternally -– much like Malone’s shoes.

The Malone Souliers Spring/Summer collection will be available to purchase in store and online beginning in November.

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Caitlin Price Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Caitlin Price London Fashion Week SS18

Caitlin Price’s SS18, shown at London Fashion Week, is a refined collection of shining two pieces and elegant jumpsuits. Taking inspiration from her trip to America, Price updates her statement silhouettes with opulence and class.

Inside The White Space in central London, models stood color-coded on ascending plinths. Burnt orange, pale blue, lime green white and black -– each outfit consisted of dresses, two pieces and jumpsuits.

A black, skin-tight jumpsuit stuck close to the knees and elbows, then plumed over the hands and feet. Ribbons of fabric gathered around the bodice then cascaded over the hips. Fans of the green and blue were appliquéd on top of their matching shirts, and pearl detailing was scattered across a high neck black track suit.

 
Caitlin Price: London Fashion Week SS18

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This collection oozes Hollywood and London influences. Working on her signature style, Caitlin Price’s sixth collection is streamlined and feminine.

The collection oozes Hollywood and London

About the Designer

Caitlin Price is from South London. She graduated from the Central Saint Martins MA Fashion Womenswear course in 2013, where she was awarded the Armani Scholarship under the late Professor Louise Wilson. Since launching her eponymous brand in 2015 with Fashion East, she has shown at the ICA, Tate Britain and Selfridges. In 2016, Price was shortlisted as a semi-finalist for the prestigious LVMH prize for young fashion designers in Paris. Since its first season, the brand has received commercial support internationally from Selfridges, Boon the Shop, Harvey Nichols and Nordstrom.

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Dumpty Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Dumpty London Fashion Week SS18

Opening the London Fashion Week show for Dumpty SS18, two unconventional models wore even more unconventional attire. To follow was a demonstration of deconstructed and reconstructed everyday tailored pieces with a few embroidered penises thrown in for good measure.

Walking hand in hand, two models opened the London show; the woman was wearing a giant knitted penis/backpack. Over a Dumpty logo t-shirt, the male model wore knit braces with an array of nipples and breasts appliquéd on top.

The hints of body parts continued throughout the rest of the collection –- cut away shoulders, nipples attached to a t-shirt and a perfect ear-shaped hole cut out of a rain mac hood. Finding inspiration from Richard Barnett’s “Crucial Interventions,” the collection of surgical illustrations was evident throughout.

 
Dumpty: London Fashion Week SS18

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The garments consisted of sportswear and functional outerwear. Shirts were cut up and repositioned, collars were now on the back, and button plackets were twisted out of shape –- reinforcing the surgical influences. The collection was made out of leatherette, PU and knitwear, juxtaposing the shiny, functional sportswear against bulky knitted objects and embellishments.

Refinement came from the colour scheme; blackish green, blue, dusty pink, black and white were the basis of the collection. This allowed a muted background for the embellishments and bold burnt orange pieces to stand out.

By readjusting lines and panels through pattern work, Dumpty has created a modern version of functional outerwear, while adding NSFW embellishments to keep the Dumpty humour throughout the seasons.

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FWO

Tata Naka Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Tata Naka London Fashion Week SS18

For Tata Naka’s SS18 London Fashion Week collection, the design duo Tamara and Natasha Surguladze created a nostalgic collection influenced by classic 1940s and 1950s style, making for a flirty tribute to American cruise wear.

Displayed on the top floor of the National Portrait Gallery in London, the demure models were poised in front of great pieces of art –- seeming to recreate the poses of the painted subjects. Busy sundresses, skirted board shorts, and tailored jumpsuits we the chosen styles at Tata Naka, capturing the summer theme.

 
Tata Naka: London Fashion Week SS18

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The colour spectrum was muted and retro, as though providing the viewer with rose-tinted glasses. Saffron, sage, aubergine and powdered pink created a soft femininity. Inspired by American photographers Frances McLaughlin and Louise Dahl-Wolfe, the softness of their images were reflected in the delicate colours of the collection.

For the silhouettes, the designers have also taken inspiration from Claire McCadell’s “American Sportswear.” A line of clothes that are decadent yet easy to move in is at the core of Tata Naka’s collection. Hemlines that flowed from the tight waistline down to the knees enforced the pure romantic femininity, while the plunging v-necks and bare shoulders added a modern touch.

A line of clothes that are decadent yet easy to move in

Tata Naka’s SS18 collection is a tribute to a hot summer romance, designed with nostalgic femininity yet designed with the movement for the modern day woman.

Sandals were provided by Capri Touch.

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tatanaka.com
London Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

Leaf Xia Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Leaf Xia London Fashion Week SS18

Leaf Xia’s SS18 London Fashion Week collection was a rainbow of panelled coats laced with ribbons and frills. The collection focussed on bold colours sculpted around the female form. Billowing silk dresses added volume to the collection of rigid outerwear.

It took inspiration from artist Leonard Knight, who painted California’s Salvation Mountain, which took 24 years to complete. Xia draws parallels from the fast-paced fashion industry and the environment. Xia’s consideration to detail and colour combinations reflects the beauty shown in the world around us, whilst not taking the pressures of the brutal fashion industry too seriously.

 
Leaf Xia: London Fashion Week SS18

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Red tartan and corseted ribbon detailing added a punk-inspired edge to the collection of baby doll dresses and frill binding, with Xia’s customary Alice in Wonderland appeal.

As usual, it was Xia’s remarkable and playful sense of colour that stood out. Leaf Xia’s SS18 collection was short and sweet: an explosion of colour crafted into tailored A-line jackets and plumes of delicate silk.

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leafxiastudio.com
London Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

Dilara Findikoglu Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Dilara Findikoglu London Fashion Week SS18

Dilara Findikoglu’s SS18 London Fashion Week show was a twisted punk romance of religious motifs and yards of silk. Hosted in London’s Saint Andrews church, a parade of diverse models from tattooist Grace Neutral to Instagram star Jazelle a.k.a @UglyWorldWide wore gothic dresses in blood red, cream and black.

As the audience eagerly waited, all hushed as if waiting for a sermon, a large cardboard set design sat at the front by the alter. Orange, hot pink and red were the fiery colours of choice, and dog tooth fabrics lay by the side.

 
Dilara Findikoglu: London Fashion Week SS18

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High-collared dresses with puffed sleeves came out one by one. Sparkling embellishments garnished the full skirts; appliquéd illustrations that mirrored the set design adorned the sleeves and backs of jackets. Meanwhile, contrasting ribbons hung down from the shoulders and cuff, adding drama to the movement.

A bright pink and black patchwork suit was studded with silver and was followed by a cropped black hoodie with exaggerated sleeves. One model had spiked gold hair that matched her shimmering longline gold jacket. To finish a billowing red off the shoulder dress was hitched to expose red PVC briefs.

Unconventionally beautiful, Findikoglu’s collection was a mash-up of nightmarishly gothic garments and flowing romantic fabrics.

From the Designer

You are beside me, winter trees, a comrade to the world, a home, the TV is playing war, we hope for peaceful sunlight. A whole heart of blood, resting on a whole heart of blood.

The children are dressed in black, they are throwing petrol bombs at the embassies, throwing electric flowers into the graveyard of capitalism.

The philosopher is counting the slow candles of the icebergs, noting how many summers we have left. She is brilliant in her sunlight hat. Her chest is a pyramid.

The president has retreated to the golf club, he rules in half sentences. Coughing up the 1950’s his mind is a puddle where broken dreams sit on the rooftops of libraries.

New weddings and empty churches, the minarets talk to the dawn before the sun lights up the city. The priests are whirling like dervishes in circles, they pinball off the walls, singing silence.

Diana and the swan ride an open topped red London bus, the trumpets beside them play rave music, LSD trips to the sound brass bands. CCTV diamonds for Oyster cards.

God is bored of us now. She sides with the animals and the weather and they watch our digital alien rampage, with cool sad eves.

Order:
Believers
Rebels
Thinkers
Politicians
Religious Leaders
Royals
The God

Words by Greta Bellamacina + Robert Montgomery

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dilarafindikoglu.com
London Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

Billie Jacobina Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

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Billie Jacobina London Fashion Week SS18

For SS16, there was a pastry party at Billie’s Bakery. After showcasing at Graduate Fashion Week in 2016, Billie Jacobina continued on to win Fashion Scout’s “One to Watch.” Drawing from experiences of working in a bakery, designer Billie Jacobina has create a bold and exuberant collection.

 
Billie Jacobina: London Fashion Week SS18

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The models danced on the stage at the Fashion Scout venue; taking selfies, eating cupcakes, and creating a party atmosphere. The flood of hot pink, which is the color of choice for most of Jacobina’s collections, mingled with tangerine to recreate the early mornings and the sweet treats at the bakery.

Interchangeable two pieces were made up of bandeau tops, leggings and sequined high waist trousers. Jacobina combined hand printing and digital printing to create a mashup of patterns, alongside faux fur and glittering sequins –- Billie’s Bakery is a feast for the eyes.

Jacobina combined hand printing and digital printing to create a mashup of patterns

For her SS16, Jacobina collaborated with No Basic Bombshell to create dazzling earrings in the shape of cakes and doughnuts. Jacobina has also collaborated with the quirky British shoe brand Irregular Choice to add to the display of bakery motifs and bold prints.

Billie Jacobina isn’t afraid to go bold, whether is with texture or print, making sure to bring playfulness to the fashion game.

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billiejacobina.com
London Fashion Week

With love,

FWO

Zang Toi Spring 2018: New York Fashion Week

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Zang Toi NYFW SS18

Represented by La Presse PR.

Zang Toi is a designer, yes, but was also nominated as “one of the most stylish New Yorkers” by US Weekly.

For SS18, Toi’s collection “Luxe Life on Lake Garda” took inspiration from the luxury Italian hotels Villa Feltrinelli and Villa Borghese on Lake Garda.

Playgrounds for the super rich are always a great escapist fantasy: at least for those of us who can generally only go in fantasy. Indeed, entire careers such as that of Slim Aarons (or product lines — see any of the Vogue décor books) have been hammered out to transport consumers to that storied other side.

 
Zang Toi: NYFW SS18

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Although the sometimes-loneliness of such getaways has been portrayed in films such as Last Year at Marienbad, the idea of being surrounded by lavish luxury — especially all the other, more important parts of one’s life being in good shape — has an irresistible appeal.

For Spring-Summer 2018, Zang Toi presented an elegant collection with the merest Italianate touches, relaxed but formal, in crisp silhouettes ready for Capri, Positano, Portofino — or anyplace else your imagination (or wallet) may take you.

Zang Toi presented an elegant collection with the merest Italianate touches

For those wanting to see the collection up close, never fear: House of Toi just opened its flagship boutique on the Upper East Side.

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zangtoi.com
NYFW schedule

With love,

FWO

Style Fashion Week Spring 2018: New York Fashion Week

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Style Fashion Week NYFW SS18

Style Fashion Week opened the 2017 season at the Intrepid Museum, Sept. 7th in NY. Day 1 featured incredible runway shows, live performances and great activations! The designers featured were: Malan Breton, Ionica, Jessie Zhao, Peyman Umay, Gregorio Sanchez, Meriem Belkhayat, and Marco Marco. Live performances by Christine W, Amanda Holley, and Mikhayla Hughes-Shaw.

Style Fashion Week and Christine Brenner of Brenner Foundation have produced a globally recognized event on the famous battle ship, USS Intrepid, in order to raise awareness surrounding our Veterans and homeless.

Style Fashion Week used its own platform of over 2.3 billion media impressions and industry professionals in attendance at our 2017 Style Fashion Week shows in NY on the USS Intrepid. The goal was to promote the Brenner Foundation and its mission to motivate, inspire and transform individuals, corporations and organizations by creating awareness to mobilize support to a national community of patriotic individuals for the benefit of our Veterans and homeless.

style fashion week

 
Style Fashion Week: NYFW SS18

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Style Fashion Week 2017 NY, Day 2, at the Intrepid Museum featured another amazing line up of incredible runway shows featuring designers: Romeo Hunte, Brittany Nicole, Misha Kaura, On Point Oz, Adriana Sahar, Chicago Playground, Eddie Eddie by Billy Tommy, Richard Hallmarq, Grace Moon, David Tupaz, and Honee. Live performances were by the music industries next big stars, Symon and Rilan and a continuation of activations.

Style Fashion Week 2017 NY, Day 3, started with an elegant lineup of kidswear runway shows and ended with streetwear inspired runway shows, a live performance by up and coming artist Jae Hall and a continuation of amazing activations. The day 3 designers featured were: Janelle Funari, KK Swimwear, Linda Gail, Elena Collection, Janay Deann, Ydamys Simo, Michelle Ann, Piu Piu Amore, Lord Burchen, Adrian Alicea, and Brian Wood.

Partners and sponsors included Blk. Water, Notorious Pink, Cristo Curlisto, The MKT @ Mercedes House, Guy & Gallard, Lalita, Stain, Coco Organics, and Dazzling Lashes.

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stylefashionweek.com
NYFW schedule

With love,

FWO