David Koma SS19
The cinematic universe of Pedro Almodóvar creates the frame for spring/summer 2019. David Koma is transported into the atmospheric moods of films such as Talk to Her and Volver, and arrives at the expression of Spanish dance.
With all its grace and drama, flamenco informs the collection in silhouette, movement and aesthetic, interpreted through the modernist eye of David Koma. Slender, elongated structures burst out into jaunty flares and peplums, crafting sculptural but fluid lines echoing the ruffles and flounces associated with the dance. Here, the designer’s signature scant hems extend into floor-length evening gowns, amplified in rich surface decoration fuelling an overall sense of enhanced glamour. The polka dots native to the flamenco wardrobe are referenced in form through a variety of embellishments.
The masculine sensuality of Romani flamenco dancer Carmen Amaya – who would wear trousers rather than skirts as to emphasise movement – inspires a focus on the trouser. Slick and streamlined, its high-waisted tailored lines break with the voluminous shapes of peplums and bell cuffs, simplifying and modernising the contour of the body. Neon yellow, vivid green and bright lavender make for a bold colour palette; accentuated by the contrast of black and white. The kinetic metal sculptures of American artist Anthony Howe guide the construction and dancelike movement of garments in a tension between rigid and soft, echoed in curved laser cut-outs and swirls of adornment fashioned in circular plexi discs.
Fabrications correspond to the architectural values of garments. A multi-peplum dress appears in quilted silk, a skirt suit in crepe, bustiers take shape in patent leather, while a dress in silk tulle forms stripes with interchanging transparency. Dresses covered in plexi chainmail create a kaleidoscope of hues, fading from one colour into another. Gowns – a first for David Koma – materialise floor-length and bedazzled in mirror embellishment.
David Koma : London SS19