The BALMAIN EXPLORER
This Fall/Winter collection is not just another collection; it’s the beginning of a new Balmain era.
It’s not merely another chapter, but the first chapter of a new book about the present and future of the house. Why a new book? Because, after 14 years, I have grown, my confidence has grown, and I’ve come to understand that true presence lies in truthfulness and consistency. Starting at a young age wasn’t easy, but the strength of this collection proves that time, resilience, and hard work are the pillars of a successful journey.
Pierre Balmain was a brave spirit who never backed down. Then as now, in times when we need to share energy and creativity, it’s crucial to stay grounded, hold onto your vision, and never deviate from your path. Balmain is about boldness, and confidence is one of its core values. Today, I want to show another kind of confidence, another kind of opulence, another kind of seduction. I believe this is the beauty of fashion – the beauty of my journey: the willingness to dare, create, and constantly strive for reinvention.
The Balmain woman is embarking on a new journey of self-discovery. She’s still audacious and powerful; she continues to exude the sexiness she is known for, but she is now softening it with a different approach to sensuality. Hence, this collection is my exploration of the modern Balmain explorer as she travels across various moods and landscapes, from the street to the savanna.
You can find many references to the house’s style from the ’50s and ’60s, with nods to the ’80s as well. You can sense the aesthetics of Monsieur Balmain but with a completely modern edge: the silhouettes of the coats, the cocooning shapes, the animal prints, and the crocodile textures, which I see as an intimate conversation between the two of us – a touch of Africa meeting Paris, a fusion of origins that sparks a palpable tension.
Balmain
Protective shapes envelope the Balmain woman throughout her day, in her everyday life, at her authentic pace. She dresses in uniforms crafted for comfort, instilling a utilitarian flair into peacoat jackets with sheltering collars and sleeves, as well as parkas and pants equipped with carry-all pockets. She loves the contrast between the gentle caress of cashmere and mohair and the fierce attitude of leather and armor-like garments.
The color palette reflects this same dynamic, with timeless greys and navy blues offset by splashes of yellow and lilac, and vivid shades of sage and mustard that amplify the tactile allure of shearling.
Wild animal motifs follow her into the city jungle, combining artisanal savoir-faire with innovative techniques: small resin tiles are assembled and articulated into 3D croco-effect dresses; the art of plissage replicates the movement of scales, elevated by metallic zippers and languid draping; micro-beaded embroideries shine in optical zebra liveries on fluid fabrics and on a form-fitting dress echoing the Jolie Madame silhouette; embossed finishes evoke crocodile skin on everything from cashmere jersey jumpsuits to a satin kimono cape that stands as another statement of force and femininity.
In accessories, our iconic bags take center stage, traversing all textures and materials, from draped leather to shearling. There’s the belted and cinched silhouette of the Anthem; the super-soft volume of the Sync, which you can grab and hold however you want, embellished with a logo-engraved padlock from the archives; the Shuffle design features a structured bustier body adorned with thin belts or zippers around the waist; the voluptuous shape of the Ebène highlights a half-moon profile with a curved wooden handle.
What a wonderful adventure this is, where jewelry acts as a reminder of our boundless journey, pairing bamboo and horn-effect earrings with monolithic resin bracelets that resemble the shell of an armadillo.
Ultimately, the shoes are built on a new sculpted wedge that shifts appearance based on the viewer’s perspective – the pumps sliced with elongated zips that completely close the upper, and the boots with rigid or draped shafts that can even cover the whole leg.
Olivier Rousteing
Credits
Casting: Anita Bitton (Establishment NY)
Make-Up: Diane Kendal for @MACcosmetics
Hair: Damien Boissinot
Music: Frédéric Sanchez
Production: LMEI
About Balmain
More than 75 years ago, when Pierre Balmain first introduced his “New French Style,” it immediately became clear to all that his eponymous house was offering a distinctly fresh, bold, and feminine conception of haute couture, one which broke with many of the well-established conventions of the era. His audaciousness paid off. Pierre Balmain became one of the handful of young French talents who ushered in the mid-century golden age of couture and helped to re-establish Paris as the world’s fashion capital.
Since 2011, Balmain Creative Director Olivier Rousteing has been inventively building upon Pierre Balmain’s extraordinary legacy, while always remaining true to his own determination to design clothes that reflect the way his inclusive, powerful, and global Balmain Army wishes to live today. The result is a unique and instantly recognizable Balmain silhouette, style and attitude that highlights the singular craftsmanship of the house’s celebrated ateliers, while consistently referencing a rich Parisian heritage.
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