Private Policy | NYFW Men’s

Private Policy | New York Fashion Week: Men’s

We live in an interesting time, when different groups of people can profess to love “America and all it stands for,” while holding extremely divergent ideas about what that means.

Some of these divisions can be answered (I think), in a more pat manner. For example, it’s clear that some people feel the “American dream” is about plurality and heterogeneity, while others feel it only applies to a certain ethnic group.

Other questions are thornier.

If you want to ruin a Thanksgiving Day meal, for example, you might bring up the idea of flag burning. (Something I narrowly avoided last November.) It’s easy to see both sides. On the one, you might have someone who knows of a person who gave their life defending that flag. Who, in essence, gave their life for all of us. So the question boils down to what you think that person sacrificed for: the flag itself, or the right to live in a country where dissent is allowed.

Fashion serves several purposes. Two of its most rewarding are as an outlet for fantasy, and as a reflection of what society is going through.

For a little of the latter, look no further than Private Policy’s excellent SS18 NYFW: Men’s collection, beautifully captured in photos by Shxpir Huang, with styling by Mel Renee.

 
Private Policy | NYFW: Men’s

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(Photos: Shxpir Huang; Styling: Mel Renee)

According to the designers:

“Under the turbulence of the political climate, many Americans feel that their country is spinning out of control, and the definition of the American Dream seems to be lost. For spring/summer 2018, PRIVATE POLICY intends to be a gatherer; collecting bits and pieces of ordinary American life, in comparison to the impression imposed by politics and media. The designers named the collection Trinkets, because the small things can indeed reflect the big picture.

the definition of the American Dream seems to be lost

“Hints of Native American elements are seen in vests and jackets, as the designers expand upon their use of prints and patterns; western influences modeled in their signature silk wool fabrication are seen in reinvented ‘denim’ jackets and ‘denim’ pants, which are finished with touches of rhinestones to represent Hollywood glam; and Private Policy’s abstract touch finishes the collection with pieces made to resemble ‘Thank You, Thank You, Thank You’ plastic bags found in convenience stores across America.

“To pull the collections inspiration together, a capsule collection of wallet chains and hangtags, another signature piece from collections past, is incorporated into the collection and designed in collaboration with 11 NYC creatives. The hangtags which display phrases of whimsy, politicalism, pride and fun are meant to express the collaborators vision of America and/or their everyday life. Each chain was then customized with “trinket” charms, a way of linking together the collaborators vision and giving them a medium to express their views and wants for America. ”

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FWO

Resort 2018: Jourden | Paris Fashion Week

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Jourden | Resort 2018

Jourden is one of our favorite designers, which is why we couldn’t resist bring you a peek at Anais Jourden Mak‘s Resort 2018 collection.

There certainly is a lot happening in the fashion week continuum at the moment. Between Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture having wrapped, NYFW: Men’s happening now, and Miami Swim on the horizon, it’s almost hard to keep up with everything.

But as always, Jourden presents a collection worth a look.

 
Jourden | Resort 2018

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One of Mak’s hallmarks as a designer is creating looks with a sneaky subversive element. Her gift is in mixing up contradictions that work; in giving femininity a cheeky, rebellious spirit without restoring to streetwear or punk clichés. If a reborn Emily Dickinson decided to express her rebellion in fashion rather than in words, Jourden might be her brand of choice: especially in this latest collection.

If a reborn Emily Dickinson decided to express her rebellion in fashion

The cuts are conservative, but the colors and patterns are anything but. “Restraint” is the word that comes to mind: but it’s not the blanket restraint of the timid. Rather, it’s the disciplined restraint of a master.

Ultimately, Mak’s vision succeeds not because of facile “bad attitude” (ATTN: most streetwear brands today) or high concept, but because her looks are beautiful. So whereas someone like Vivienne Westwood might express rebellion in a series of awkward, defiant pairings, Mak’s rebellion is crafted from floral juxtapositions and one-of-a-kind silhouettes. Her skill with color and balance is so strong, the conversation is necessarily elevated.

it’s the disciplined restraint of a master

The collection shows more control than her Spring 2017 collection, and more focus than her Fall 2017 collection.

But Resort is about taking it easy and relaxing. After all, even an iconoclast has to kick up her proverbial heels, sometimes.

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FWO

WOOD HOUSE | NYFW Men’s

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WOOD HOUSE | New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Here are some images from WOOD HOUSE’s latest collection as shown as New York Fashion Week Men’s.

From the designer:

“The socioeconomic and political fallout following this year’s election is rare but certainly not unprecedented. Julian Woodhouse spent enough time reflecting where we are as a collective. Although choosing to define our society has become a polarizing crisis in recent times, he concluded, nothing we see is new; it has happened to preceding generations and it is likely to happen again. Simultaneous occurrences of both civil and global tensions make the perfect environment for growth. As we grow, rifles fire, bombs are dropped, and lives are lost. During these crucibles, the public’s outcry demands a revolution — a counter culture.

“This collection was stitched with the hopes of a brighter future, and for us represents the new revolutionary and our counter culture. We are a politically and socioeconomically engaged society. Not caring is not an option, but from time to time we can take a break and enjoy life. So let’s have a field day!”

This collection was stitched with the hopes of a brighter future

 
WOOD HOUSE | NYFW: Men’s

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(Photos: Dan Lecca)

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Daniel Hechter | NYFW Men’s

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Daniel Hechter | New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Here are some images from Daniel Hechter’s latest collection as shown as New York Fashion Week Men’s.

According to designer Christophe Blondin Pechabrier: “For Spring 2018 we break the rules, mixing pique with nylon and stretch poplin for a fresh take on a springtime classic. With this new collection, Daniel Hechter Paris welcomes the millennial generation and brings the traditional Hechter man into the fold.”

 
Daniel Hechter | NYFW: Men’s

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Daniel Hechter Paris introduces a vibrant spring 2018 collection offering ready-to-wear options designed for the American man with a European sensibility. The spring 2018 collection pushes the boundaries of contemporary menswear, playing on different fabrications, textures, and color combinations to offer a fresh take on classics. With this new collection, Daniel Hechter Paris welcomes the millennial generation and brings the traditional Hechter man into the fold.

The brand is no stranger to using bold color and patterns in their offerings. This season, inspired by pattern designer Camilla Frances, a computerized floral design spices up jacket linings, shirts, and outerwear. A ‘motherboard’ print, inspired by the hardware computer’s of the 90s used, is superimposed on t-shirts and adds subtle detail to the backs of collars. Their classic silhouettes, previously offered in more demure neutrals, will be done this season in brighter fashion colors. Cherry reds and hunter greens provide a sharp, eye catching appeal among navy, white, and beige.

While new colors and prints provide an aesthetic allure, unique and inventive fabric combinations and details elevate the collection further. Pops of seersucker on a blazer, perforated suede details, and paper touch jackets are all new, exciting material additions to the line. A lambskin classic leather jacket with zipper details and outerwear with removable linings provide smart and savvy options for layering in spring weather. Simple, lightweight knit sweaters with an ultra-soft feel and hoodies with herringbone details alongside the zipper exemplify the unique attention to detail the Daniel Hechter Paris brand puts into every piece in its collection.

This line also offers the wearer a variety of different, unexpected outfit combinations. Windbreakers and bombers are reversible to provide the wearer with two looks in one garment and blazers are paired refreshingly with shorts or drawstring joggers for a relaxed look that is still polished. In keeping with the brand’s ethos, the price points continue to be competitive without sacrificing the high quality that customers have come to expect from Daniel Hechter Paris. Shorts start at $75, wovens and knits range from $80 to $95, and jackets and outerwear are offered at $195 to $578.

As the Daniel Hechter Paris empire continues to expand into the US market, the spring 2018 collection is a fine representation of the brand’s dedication to providing beautiful, accessible menswear to all.

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David Hart | NYFW Men’s

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David Hart | New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Here are some images from David Hart’s latest collection as shown as New York Fashion Week Men’s.

According to David Hart: “The Spring ’18 collection is inspired by tourism to Cuba. Unfortunately, since I started development, recent events in the USA have started a roll back on restrictions on easy travel there.

“This collection is a celebration of the world’s view of Cuba and not a literal one. I personally have never been to Cuba, so this collection is based on an idea of Cuba I’ve been exposed to through books, media, and cinema as an American.”

 
David Hart | NYFW: Men’s

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This season David Hart featured three styles of TOMS shoes. The men were wearing the Deconstructed Alpargatas, a new take on the iconic TOMS style, and the Huarache slip on, a loafer style with a breezy construction and a classic jute-wrapped sole. The women were wearing the Stella Wedge, an effortlessly stylish peep toe wedge with a cork heel.

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Krammer & Stoudt | NYFW Men’s

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Krammer & Stoudt | New York Fashion Week: Men’s

Here are some images from Krammer & Stoudt’s latest collection as shown as New York Fashion Week Men’s.

The theme of this season’s collection is “Baja Dreams.”

 
 
Krammer & Stoudt | NYFW: Men’s

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Miami Swim Week: Funkshion (Now Paraiso)

A Funkshion of Success

Founded in 2002, Funkshion is one of the largest and most established creators of shows during Miami Swim Week.

Founded by Aleksandar Sale Stojanovic and Alain Perez, it’s helmed by Aleksandar and Natalija Dedic Stojanovic. Funkshion has attracted high-profile designers from Tommy Hilfiger to Betsey Johnson, among many others.

 
Q: How did Funkshion come about, and when? And who’s behind it?

Funkshion was established to fill a need for fashion week in Miami/Miami Beach. We made it very relaxed and attractive, so in the first two seasons we already had designers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Betsey Johnson, Nicole Miller, M+F Girbaud, Ted Baker, Fred Perry, and others.

We made it very relaxed and attractive

In the beginning it was twice a year (March and October) and in 2004 we added Swim Fashion Week in July, a year before IMG came to Miami. Alain Perez and I started it back in 2002 and Natalija Dedic joined the team some 10 years ago as a Creative Director.

Over the years we’ve received many recognitions such as a Fashion Group International Award, three proclamations by the City of Miami Beach, and Key to the City of Miami Beach.

Q: What was Miami Swim Week like when you first started producing shows?

Originally we started with the tent in Collins Park, where we still do shows, and then added three Hotels: W Hotel, The Setai Hotel, and The Soho Beach House.

We were concentrated in tents on brands such as Cosabella, Eberjay, Liliana Montoya and in hotels on more exclusive brands such as Chloe, Trina Turk, Sinesia Karol, and others. Over the years we switched the W Hotel to the SLS hotel and last two years to The Nautilus Hotel.

So this year we are in the main tent in Collins Park in front of Bass Museum, the Setai Hotel, the Nautilus Hotel, and 11 11 Garage on Lincoln Rd. In a sense there was more harmony back in the day, as we had a great communication with IMG and the schedule was seamless. We were supporting each other in any possible way to make the week perfect.

this year we are in the main tent in Collins Park

Q: What’s it like now, post-IMG? What are the challenges and what are the positives?

As I mentioned, we had a great communication with IMG and were doing the schedule together. After IMG left, a few production companies started doing remote shows and communication was lost. I tried to communicate with them but without success. That said, the biggest challenge is making a Miami Swim Week schedule work for all. The positive is that all the big brands still do shows, and are pushing the limits creatively. On the other hand, activewear, resort, and lingerie designers started taking part in Swim Week, which just shows the strength of the week.

the big brands still do shows, and are pushing the limits creatively

Q: What makes Miami Beach special as a place for swimwear collections?

Miami Beach is a perfect city for any convention. Just look at Art Basel, Food and Wine. … Miami Beach is a perfect city because everything is a walk away. Hotels, restaurants, the Convention Center, are all within 3-4 blocks. Miami Beach is also perfectly placed geographically, between Europe and South and North America, and very accessible from other parts of the world. Now add an amazing beach and ocean, and you get perfect setting for swimwear collections. Many designers do their photo shoots while in Miami.

Miami Beach is also perfectly placed geographically

Q: What do you see for the future of Miami Swim Week? What’s the dream?

I really think it has a potential to be Art Basel of Swim. More and more brands are doing extra things in addition to trade shows and fashions shows. There are brunches, day events, parties. The core of Swim Week is the same as Art Basel — trade shows. However, fashion shows are crucial for the development of this week, as well as all other side events. That is what made Art Basel so huge. They attract celebrities, press, blogger, influencers, and guests in general.

it has a potential to be Art Basel of Swim

Q: What’s the BEST part of being involved in Miami Swim Week?

We’ve been producing events and fashion shows for more than 20 years. We’ve done some major shows and events for mega brands like Chloe, YSL, Ralph Laurent, Missoni, Moschino, Lanvin, Versace, and many others.

However, swimwear is unique, as these brands do not have major budgets like other brands, which forces them to be very creative. I love seeing that process transform on our runways. We always offer them a blank canvas, and then their creativity makes each show look like a different venue. And I love being a part of that process. Every year they reinvent themselves.

their creativity makes each show look like a different venue

Q: What can we expect to see this upcoming season?

This season we are expanding our venues and events. There will be social events, influencers brunches, panel discussions, pop up shops, designers, and models “Lips and Sips” headquarters, and many more. For the first time we will incorporate an LED screen in the back of the runway, and I am looking forward to seeing designers’ creative juices flowing.

We also added an extra venue this year, so I am looking forward to see how will that play out.

This season we are expanding our venues and events

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FWO

Interview with Yumi Katsura | Paris Fashion Week Exclusive

Interview with Yumi Katsura

Yumi Katsura’s dresses are considered modern masterpieces.

Born in Tokyo, Katsura studied the techniques of haute couture in Paris at École de la Chambre Syndicale de La Couture Parisienne.

In 1964, Katsura opened her first bridal salon, and presented the first bridal collection show ever held in Japan. Some of the most exclusive stores in the States, such as Saks Fifth Avenue, Bergdorf Goodman, Henri Bendel, and Neiman Marcus, purchased her dresses.

After another successful Haute Couture Paris Fashion Week show — held at the town hall of Paris’ 4th arrondissement — we spoke with the designer backstage .

Q: Thank you for having us! Is there someone in your professional or personal life you turn to as a source of inspiration? Who do you think about when you’re designing your pieces?

It’s very difficult to say one person, but maybe I can say Mr. Pierre Balmain. It was 1975 when he came to the Tokyo boutiques, and he visited us by chance. He stopped by and he was very, very impressed.

 
Yumi Katsura Haute Couture

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Pierre Balmain visited us and he was very, very impressed

As you know, my career started as a wedding dress designer, so my boutiques were all wedding dresses. He said, “Oh, my God, I am very, very jealous of you because you are working in weddings, in a person’s happiest moment.” So I decided to proceed as a wedding dress designer. This is one of my mentors, Pierre Balmain.

Q: I see that your Japanese roots are very important to your designs. I know you reinvent the kimono each time you present. How do you do this?

The prototype of the kimono doesn’t change. It’s always the kimono. But for me, the kimono is like a picture. A painting. If you want to try expressing the painting in a normal jacket, you cannot do that because of the length of the jacket. In the kimono you can express the beauty of the picture, and that is why I use the kimono. The details. It’s very important. It’s very modern and also it changes all the time.

The kimono is very modern and also changes all the time

Q: Are there any particular markets you would like to enter or experiment with that you haven’t had the opportunity to yet?

Russia, Germany, and the Arab World. I don’t know much about them yet, but the people working in the boutiques in New York say that Russian and German people are very interested in the product. I also see many Arab customers in our Paris shop. I have done a lot of work in New York, Japan, China, and even Myanmar. But yes, why not try Russia, Germany, and the Arab world?

That’s what I am looking forward to.

I am looking forward to Russia, Germany, and the Arab world?

Q: That’s very exciting!

 
Yes, I have lots of things to do!

My mission is to make women happy all over the world. For example, that’s what I am looking for in all my work — and all my career. For example, the calligraphy dress that’s behind you, that is a poem I did, which talks about happiness and thanks to all the people around me. So since I started my career, I love the moment that makes women happy. That is what I am looking for. That is why I am doing this.

I love the moment that makes women happy.

Q: I love the simplicity in some of the colors but the complexity of the prints — how you manipulate the color to give it so much life? Where do you draw your inspiration?

This motif of the plant on some looks is drawn by Suzuki Kiitsu, a painter living in the Edo period. Some are not so vivid, just a little bit modest. But the lines are very feminine, girly. I wanted to point out that the ruffles up top have gradations in color. That’s why I love it. Of course, we can do it without the gradation, but with it, it’s just a bit more special. Also, as I said, they’re always in the line of tradition and the modern.

The motif of the plant is drawn by Suzuki Kiitsu of the Edo period

Q: Thank you very much for the opportunity to interview you! We look forward to spotting the coming season’s looks on happy women across the world.

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FWO

Alexis Mabille Review | Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture 2017 / 18

Alexis Mabille | Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

The Alexis Mabille presentation took place in a traditional elegant Parisian apartment with extraordinary décor and a precise level of decadence to match the designs.

Having ditched the traditional runway presentation, the designer used the large and open space wisely by museuming the garments and installing them on bust forms, as if in conversation with their surroundings. The designer also affirmed dimension was to be felt, with one main screen displaying the garments as they moved. And do they move.

In the way Mabille presented his designs, most of the senses had a moment in couture paradise. With drinks generously available to showgoers and an exciting playlist to match, working our way through the space was as smooth and alluring as it could have been.

most of the senses had a moment in couture paradise

His rich and brilliant designs all existed individually, with one consistent thread bringing them in harmony — classic lines and decadent detailing. Sometimes obvious, other times not.

My personal favorite number was a particular tiered pink gown that transmitted a demure and classic tale of beauty, with a palpable sense of high fashion. It was almost too sweet to be among the other very strong looks; however, its scale and distinct presence gave it exactly the couture momentum it needed. It also brought to my mind how Dior’s New Look is often depicted — womanly, mature but young, and incredibly modern.

It also brought to my mind Dior’s New Look

The designer included a couple of more traditional silhouettes in the collection, although featuring intricate patchwork and hand-sewn crafts worth ogling. In the same room, one could even find other pieces showered in gold shimmer, still perfectly chic.

One particular treasure was the surprise ombré ruffle sleeves on a beautiful red evening gown in velvet, that gave its wearer an extraordinary presence, impossible to ignore.

The collection was ultra feminine and conscious of the body, with the sensuality and strength of a woman on full display, as successfully conveyed in the video footage.

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Paris Fashion Week

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FWO

Idan Cohen Review | Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture 2017 / 18

Idan Cohen | Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

In a world of glitz and elegance, designer Idan Cohen states he drew from nature to reimagine his designs from bridal into couture for this season’s inspiration — his very first in the couture space.

The very first look had a way of its own, a reverse slip gown with a playful tutu tail. The ombre effect in the basket-patterned beading was almost hypnotizing and was an incredibly strong start to the presentation.

 
Idan Cohen | Paris Haute Couture Fashion Week

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Each look came together to present a strong, modern and otherworldly collection that I can definitely anticipate seeing in the performing arts and some red carpets in the months to come.

His bridal background shone through at times, most notably with the occasional headpiece, which reenvisioned the veil as a high fashion accessory, at times with a silk charmeuse train, at others with bunches of beads.

he reenvisioned the veil as a high fashion accessory

It has caught my eye that designers are continuously looking to reinvent sleeves this season, and Cohen is no exception. The elegant and slightly dramatized sleeves in look #4 would make anyone swoon, providing a baggy contrast to the dress itself, while still sending a polished statement.

The designer certainly brought new silhouettes forward, such as the waist cutout X-line cocktail dress. Even moreso, the thigh-high embroidered crystal stockings were exciting and tasteful — both sexy and elegant.

The cohesive message Cohen brought to the runway was of high-price stitching and fairytale special occasion wear. The beading techniques were the highlight of the collection, especially so on the cocktail-length dresses and bodysuits. They were unfussy, far from predictable, and still so sumptuous. Though easy to overlook because of the excitement that crowded the room, this is where Cohen shone and delivered. Bravo, Idan.

The beading techniques were the highlight of the collection

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Paris Fashion Week

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FWO