Hair coloring in which ammonia is not present is sold as being gentle and harmless and ammonia is the bad guy.
The truth, exaggeration and omission are present in reality. Ammonia-free is not a single product, but it is a type of chemistries that have their own advantages and disadvantages.
There are those which are actually milder; and just a few others which merely replace one alkaline agent with another. Ammonia is an alkalising agent which increases the pH of hair compelling the cuticle to open allowing colour molecules to enter and peroxide to lighten melanin. It is highly effective, it swells the cuticle in an effective manner, it evaporates and leaves no residue.
Why replace it? Smell (harsh, acrid smell), sensitivity of the scalp (stinging and irritation), trauma on the cuticles (aggressive opening needs aggressive closing), and perception of the consumers (ammonia=damage).
The Ammonia-Free Alternatives
MEA (Monoethanolamine): The most widespread of replacements. Almost zero smell, less inhalation irritation, milder to sensitive scalps.
Trade-off: MEA does not evaporate, and it stays in the hair, which is not good and needs to be thoroughly rinsed not to accumulate and make hair dry.
Ethanolamine: This is like MEA and it is used in European and Japanese lines. Good penetration, good performance, low odor.
Same trade-off: must be carefully rinsed.
Low-pH/Acid Dyes: Colour is deposited on the surface of the cuticle as opposed to the deep penetration. Very soft, superior shine.
Trade-off: Demi or semi-permanent only – cannot lighten, lacks grey coverage, predictable fading.
Permanent Colour Ammonia-Free: MEA, ethanolamine, or other agents are used. Indestructible coverage, 1-3 degree uplift, low fragrance.
Precaution: Must be rinsed conditionally; different formulations have different efficacies.
The Benefits
Less Scalp Irritation: Ammonia evaporates and touches the scalp resulting in stinging. MEA/ethanolamine are liquid, which causes air irritation to a great extent.
Less Smell: Minimal smell at time of application, virtually none at any time after rinsing. Good in close-contact occupations, or pregnant clients or anyone who is sensitive to chemical aromas.
Gentler Cuticle Swelling: Agents free of ammonia swell the cuticle at a slower rate, and may cause less structural damage to the fine or fragile hair. Nonetheless, even the aggressive formulations may give rise to serious swelling.
Better Shine: The less cuticle disturbance is better, resulting in more glossy-looking hair at the end of the service.
Perceived Cleanliness: Psychological and real. Clients who feel that they use softer products are more satisfied and trusted.
The Trade-Offs
Lifting Limitations: The ammonia-free permanents lift 1-3 levels most. Ammonia-based formulations are more effective to use in case of dramatic lighting (brunette to platinum). There are luxury lines that are similar to the performance of ammonia but need very specific usage.
Grey Coverage variability: The cuticles of resistant grey hair are tightly closed, and do not easily penetrate. Ammonia is best in this, numerous ammonia free preparations are not as reliable in giving 100 percent grey coverage especially on coarse white hair.
Fading Profile: Certain ammonia-free colours have a deeper surface deposition and thus, pigment can dissipate more quickly. It is necessary to gloss the hair every 4-6 weeks to keep it vibrant.
Buildup Potential MEA and ethanolamine do not evaporate. Poorly rinsed hair is left behind which builds up with repeated services and gives rise to a coated, tough hair with uncertain future colour processing.
Who Should Choose Ammonia-Free?
Ideal candidates: Clients who have sensitive scalps, pregnant clients who desire little chemical exposure, clients who abhor the smells of ammonia, clients with coarse or delicate hair and clients who wish to have a slight improvement in their appearance but is not extreme lifting.
Less ideal: Clients who have 100 per cent grey resistance (plus those who want multi-level lift), who have limited budgets (ammonia-free lines by professional brands can be quite costly), and those who are not willing to change their maintenance routines.
Wash plan: 48 to 72 hours at least. Hot water to wash, ice to close. Sulfate-free shampoo only.
Condition religiously: Every mid-lengths to ends wash. Deep heat conditioning per week. Daily leave-in conditioner.
Apply gloss regularly: Professional gloss should be put on every 4-6 weeks to refresh tone and add shine.
Never leave the heat alone: Do not use any of your hot tools without protection, not even the blow dryer.
Filter water: Shower filters eliminate discoloured minerals. Chelating shampoo monthly.
Question your colourist: “I have a sensitive scalp, what is an ammonia-free permanent which will cover my grey? I would like to lose two levels – am I thin enough with ammonia? Which line is your particular line, what are its limitations? How would you recommend I change my home care?
Permanent and ammonia-free: 46 weeks vibrant colour, 8-10 weeks acceptable colour, then must be intervened upon.
Demi-permanent: 4-6 weeks in total, which is gradual in wearing away.
Semi-permanent: 2-4 weeks of temporary experimentalism.
These are the ranges that are based on sulfate-free shampoo, washing every 2-3 days, cool rinses, frequent conditioning, and no excessive sun/chlorine. Estimates are reduced by half with daily washing with sulfate shampoo.
Hair coloring without ammonia is not chemically free or harmless, it is a new chemical process. The most compelling case to go with it: scalp sensitivity, smell aversion or fine hair that does not react well to aggressive alkalizing agents. The most awful excuse: considering it to be naturally better. In the event that formulation and expectations are aligned with the technology, ammonia-free provides gorgeous long-lasting effects.
