There was a palpable sense of anticipation as I settled into my seat at the Balmain Fall/Winter 2024 show. I could feel it in the air – this wasn’t just another seasonal collection, but what Creative Director Olivier Rousteing himself has declared “the beginning of a new Balmain era.”
After 14 years at the helm, I’ve observed Rousteing’s evolution both personally and professionally. The confidence he exuded throughout this collection was unmistakable. He described it as “the first chapter of a new book about the present and future of the house” – and I could sense this maturity, clearly born from years of resilience and dedication to his craft.
Pierre Balmain’s legacy – that fearless spirit who never compromised – visibly influences Rousteing’s approach. In today’s climate where sharing energy and creativity feels essential, Rousteing stands firm in his vision. While boldness has always been central to Balmain’s DNA, I found this collection revealed something different – a new kind of confidence, a different opulence, a fresh interpretation of seduction.
What captivated me most was the evolution of the Balmain woman. Still audacious and powerful with her trademark sensuality, she now expresses herself through a softer lens. Watching the show felt like witnessing an expedition of the modern Balmain explorer traversing various emotional landscapes – from urban streets to wild savannas.
I noticed thoughtful historical references woven throughout the collection. The nods to house styles from the ’50s and ’60s were distinct, with subtle ’80s influences. The aesthetic honors Monsieur Balmain while remaining decidedly contemporary: elegant coat silhouettes, cocooning shapes, bold animal prints, and textured crocodile finishes created what Rousteing calls “an intimate conversation” between himself and the founder – a fusion of African influences and Parisian sophistication.
Protection and Practical Luxury
The protective, enveloping shapes defined the collection’s practical approach. I particularly appreciated the utilitarian elements in peacoat jackets with sheltering collars, functional parkas, and pants with generous pockets. The contrasting textures worked exceptionally well – soft cashmere and mohair against commanding leather and armor-like constructions.
This duality was reinforced through the color story. Classic greys and navy blues provided the foundation, while unexpected pops of yellow and lilac created moments of surprise. I found the vibrant sage and mustard tones particularly effective in enhancing the tactile appeal of the shearling pieces.
Wildlife Reimagined
Wildlife motifs translated brilliantly into urban contexts. The craftsmanship was nothing short of extraordinary – small resin tiles meticulously assembled into three-dimensional crocodile-effect dresses; plissé techniques mimicking the movement of scales, enhanced by metallic zippers and fluid draping; micro-beaded embroideries creating optical zebra patterns on flowing fabrics; and a form-fitting dress echoing the iconic “Jolie Madame” silhouette. I noted embossed crocodile finishes on everything from cashmere jersey jumpsuits to a dramatic satin kimono cape.
The accessories commanded attention without overwhelming. Iconic Balmain bags appeared in various textures, from draped leather to plush shearling. The belted Anthem silhouette made a strong statement, as did the super-soft Sync with its archive-inspired logo-engraved padlock. I was drawn to the structured Shuffle design with its corseted body accented with thin belts and zipper details. Perhaps most striking was the Ebène with its half-moon profile and curved wooden handle.
The jewelry extended the collection’s nomadic narrative – bamboo and horn-effect earrings paired with substantial resin bracelets reminiscent of armadillo shells. The footwear was built on sculpted wedges that shift appearance depending on viewing angle, featuring pumps with elongated zippers and boots with rigid or draped shafts extending to thigh-high lengths.
Since 2011, I’ve watched Rousteing brilliantly honor Pierre Balmain’s extraordinary legacy while designing for his inclusive, powerful, global Balmain Army. This collection continues that tradition, showcasing the house’s celebrated ateliers and rich Parisian heritage, while pushing firmly into the future.
