Review: AFC Brings Fresh Asian Design Perspective to NYFW February 2025

Ifound myself particularly intrigued by the thoughtful curation at the Asia Fashion Collection (AFC) NYFW February 2025 Runway Show on February 11th. The showcase, organized by Vantan and PARCO Co. Ltd., offered a genuine glimpse into the evolving design language of emerging Asian talents.

The runway featured five distinct brands across menswear and womenswear categories. What caught my attention was the subtle regional influences woven throughout each collection. From Japan, Yousuke Haga (@yousuke_haga) presented work that felt both technically precise and conceptually rich, while the BILL BILL collaboration between Kouki Sera & Kotarou Kawamura (@billbill_official) brought an unexpectedly fresh perspective. Sora Komatsu’s LITTLE BEDROOM (@little_bedroom_) offered intimate design narratives that stayed with me long after the show. Taiwan’s representation through PCES by Yu Chi Lee, Chih Yun Chang, and Bruno Hayon Chung (@pces_studio) demonstrated a compelling cross-cultural approach, while South Korea’s MEG KIM (@megk1m) showed a sophisticated understanding of contemporary silhouettes.

The production elements complemented the collections without overshadowing them – KuRoKo Inc.’s understated direction and Eric Cano’s thoughtful casting choices allowed the designs to speak for themselves. Kien Hoang for Oribe created hairstyles that enhanced rather than distracted, while Michelle Webb for AOFMPro developed makeup concepts that felt cohesive with each designer’s vision. Fernando Colon’s photography captured the nuanced details that might otherwise go unnoticed. New York Tokyo’s PR and creative direction tied these elements together with considered restraint.

For those who haven’t followed AFC’s development, it functions as an incubation project that provides emerging East Asian designers with significant global exposure. The selection process begins with Tokyo preliminaries, with winners earning their place at NYFW for AFC’s culminating showcase. What makes this platform valuable is its focus on designers who might otherwise remain within regional markets despite their evident talent.

The judging panel included notable industry figures with diverse perspectives – from Kaname Murakami (Editor-in-Chief of WWD JAPAN) as Chief Jury Member to buyers like Ren Osawa from Midwest who understand commercial viability, alongside creatives such as Yoshiro Kawasaki (CEO of Aout Inc.).

For more information on this initiative: https://asiafashioncollection.com/

Vantan, one of the organizing forces, has been developing “practical education” since 1965 with a philosophy centered on creating “the world’s closest school to society.” Their presence in Tokyo, Osaka, and Nagoya has yielded approximately 200,000 graduates spanning numerous creative fields. Their alumni roster includes significant names like Kunihiko Morinaga (ANREALAGE) and Daiki Suzuki (Engineered Garments) – evidence of their effective approach. More details at https://www.vantan.jp

PARCO CO., LTD has been steadily cultivating cultural conversations since establishing Ikebukuro PARCO in 1969. While fashion forms their foundation, their reach extends into music, visual arts, and theater – consistently providing space for emerging cultural movements to take shape. Learn more: https://www.parco.co.jp

I left with a renewed appreciation for these cross-cultural design exchanges and the quiet innovation happening at the intersection of traditional techniques and contemporary vision.

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