While searching the name of the Fall-Winter 23 collection, I instinctively decided to call it Prelude,” says Ami. “In opera and classical music, a prelude represents an introduction, an opening to a piece or an act that follows.
“This collection is fundamental for me, as it has been in my mind ever since AMI was founded. In our quest to define a truly modern wardrobe, each season represented a new step towards a more precise and distinguished look. Season after season, show after show, it took me 12 years to give life to this collection. This moment, this Fall-Winter 23 show therefore marks the beginning of a new chapter, for AMI and for me.
Prelude, Ami’s
“Prelude goes back to the essence of AMI; it expresses my sincere wish to create a pure, fresh and genuine collection. One that perfectly depicts the Parisian, male and female alike. This season, AMI’S winter is lighter: materials, colors and shapes are very soft, fluid — almost romantic, I may say. Like a cocoon, like a whisper.”
Alexandre Mattiussi, Founder & Creative Director, AMI
THE CONCEPT & THE SET
AMI’s Fall-Winter 23 show was held at 8.30 pm at the Opéra Bastille, the modern facility of the Opéra National de Paris. Guests of the brand walked up the majestic stairs on Place de la Bastille, passing through the foyer and entering the main hall. They were then ushered through the parterre, past the orchestra pit and onto the Opéra’s stage, where they sat on rows of chairs on both sides and in the center of the stage, covered for the occasion by a neutral, elegant beige carpeting. This was the first time that a fashion show took place on the scene of the Opéra Bastille.
The scenography was kept deliberately simple and modest: the minimal set design contrasted massively with the surroundings, the backstage, the main room. In the end, everything around the stage faded away, so the only thing subsisting was the focus on the collection.
Right before the show’s finale, singer Moses entered the scene and sang his hit song Doomed in the dark, under a single spotlight illuminating him directly from above while the rest of the stage remained in total darkness.
THE CASTING
Walking down the runway at the Opéra Bastille this season was an eclectic mix of various generations: well-known faces and established models, with the likes of Charlotte Rampling, Amber Valetta, Scott Barnhill and Marie Sophie Wilson presented AMI’s Fall-Winter 23 collection and mingled on the catwalk with up-and-coming faces, like Noah Hanes.
AMI’s FRIENDS
AMI’s guests at the Fall-Winter 23 fashion show included Catherine Deneuve, Carla Bruni, Xavier Dolan, Noah Schnapp, Pierre Niney, Simona Tabasco, Hoshi (SEVENTEEN), Gwendoline Christie, Antonia Gentry, Usher and Dylan O’Brien.
THE COLLECTION
Following its quest to define a modern and lively wardrobe, AMI’s Fall-Winter 23 represents a new step and a clean slate towards establishing a more precise and distinguished look. The collection goes back to the essence of AMI, pure and pragmatic, fresh and flexible. It draws inspiration from the effortless and playful way French people dress and mix styles.
The specific codes that define AMI and its modernity are reinforced to create an even richer universe. The wardrobe’s fundamentals are reinterpreted in a more elevated way: their shapes are very authentic in their details, with a silhouette as relaxed and refined as easy to wear. Womenswear gets inspiration from the men’s wardrobe yet remains soft and romantic.
The color palette is poetical and harmonious, contrasting and sophisticated. Paired with sartorial darker tones, neutral and dusty pastel tones confer the collection much lightness. Soft and lush, crushed, brushed or fluffy, yet always on the light side, fabrics include silk, alpaca and cashmere. Luxurious embroideries are layered on sartorial, menswear-inspired pieces, adding character and artistry.
THE ACCESSORIES
A range of original stylish accessories completes the collection and underlines its spirit.
AMI’s bag of the season is the “Nap Bag”. Large and extra-padded, this shoulder bag in soft nappa leather recalls the shape of a pillow. Its deconstructed elegance is enhanced by its metallic, Ami de Cœur-shaped clasp.
The Fall-Winter 23 also features a stylish jewelry line, with pieces that look like they have been passed on repeatedly from one generation to the next. Deliberately imperfect, slightly asymmetric, the stones’ setting appears uneven — as if time had faintly contorted or melted them all.
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With love,
FWO
