OVERCOAT Spring Summer 2022 “Evolution of Tailoring”
Represented by Kaleidoscope Consulting.
OVERCOAT Designer, Ryuhei Oomaru, manipulates the patternmaking process to create unisex silhouettes that highlight the fact that all body types are unique.
The structured and tailored aspect of each garment starts with a pattern that allows the fabric to drape so that it contours to different shoulder slopes while simultaneously pursuing comfort in the most minimal form.
Photos: Jesper Lund / Office Magazine
The OVERCOAT Brand Video encompasses this idea and Oomaru’s exploration of creating new silhouettes. You see Oomaru approach his form repeatedly, in this case a rectangular block, and draping fabric to create different silhouettes each time. By breaking away from the preconceived idea of the body, something new and unexpected can emerge.
This season Oomaru has further evolved the concept of tailoring with patterns that minimize construction while creating volume and drape at the same time. Proposing familiar shapes through unconventional patternmaking techniques.
Tailoring remains at the core of the collection with new fabrics and silhouettes bringing together an adaptable modern wardrobe.
- Cape Shoulder Overcoat with Rectangle Collar in Crispy Wool
This new coat silhouette incorporates a shoulder pattern which creates a cape-like drape and the collar is made from a rectangle pattern creating a more graphic collar shape. The coat can be worn in different ways either buttoned up for a more classic fit or tied with a belt around the waist highlighting the cape-like volume. The cape construction creates natural underarm openings for ventilation.
- Trouser with Back Cargo Pocket in Crispy Wool
A trouser with no side seams creating a beautifully clean drape with the detail of a sophisticated cargo pocket on the back. There is no waist belt loop but instead a back waistband for extra comfort.
- One Seam Hoodie in Peter Miles Studio Nylon Print
This hoodie style is made with just one seam from sleeve to side connecting two pieces of cloth together. The pattern allows for an unobstructed use of the fabric to showcase the print design while creating a graphic bias seam at the back. The use of a tubular drawstring in the hoodie creates an intentional graphic detail.
- Bandless Short in Peter Miles Studio Nylon Print
These shorts are stripped down to minimal construction without any unnecessary elements with no side seams or waist belt loop, only a back waistband. The construction of the front pockets are made nearly invisible without the use of any seams.
- Shirt Jacket in Silk Cotton
A jacket made from one pattern connecting the front, back and sleeves made to fit the wearer’s shoulder width and slope comfortably. The notched collar gives the feeling of a jacket while the shirting like sleeves provides a more casual feel.
Double Breasted Jacket and Drawstring Trouser in Tricotine
An interpretation of a double breasted suit. The jacket has a back armhole pattern which creates extra drape for ease of movement. The interior construction has been eliminated except for a light sleeve head to create a cardigan-like soft construction. The jacket is paired with a drawstring trouser for a more relaxed summer suit.
The fabrics this season have been chosen for utility and comfort. Tailoring pieces can be seen in Crispy Wool Gabardine which brings structure to softer silhouettes and Rayon Tricotine, a tightly twisted yarn in a twill weave giving the perfect balance of drape and structure. Rubberized Nylon in a bright yellow and muted beige used to create a water repellent shirt jacket. Silk Cotton in a light weight density basket weave provides a soft and airy touch to the skin. Yarn Dyed Cotton shirting in stripe patterns that look like thick bold stripes from a distance but upon closer inspection you can see the stripes are made up of very fine stripes. Yarn Dyed Linen with contrasting colored weft and weave create a graphic loose weave used in a hoodie style and 5 pocket “denim” trouser.
The collection focuses on updated neutrals such as navy and beige, with pops of acid green, yellow, pink and pale blue.
Peter Miles Studio Collaboration
Art Director Peter Miles created a handmade anti digital print as a part of an ongoing series and made an edit for OVERCOAT to work with. Since 2021, the prints of Miles’ artwork have been incorporated into OVERCOAT’s Spring collections, and this is the second collaboration, stemmed from years of working on various projects together and Oomaru’s great respect for his work.
OVERCOAT was launched in 2015 by Ryuhei Oomaru with the premise that the design of a garment should be generated by its underlying structure. Guided by this approach, Oomaru elevates its fashions to the level of art while simultaneously divorcing the innovator from traditional romantic associations with intuition and emotion. Oomaru applies a procedural approach, which allows new forms of creativity to be reached through the application of the designers’ background in all phases of fashion production, from design to pattern making to sewing.
Upon graduating from Bunka Fashion College in Tokyo, Oomaru joined and worked at Comme des Garcons for several years. After moving to New York, he was head tailor at Donna Karan. In 2008, he founded Oomaru Seisakusho 2, a product development studio which has collaborated with many international creators. All garments of OVERCOAT are designed and engineered at this studio and sold globally. Oomaru Seisakusho 2 is part of the CFDA Fashion Manufacturing Initiative.