Interview with Viktor Luna at NYFW
ar from his leather-jacketed creations, Viktor Luna showed us a new side of his design abilities for SS17. His usual punk-fueled fervor of plaid, studs, and leather was absent, but his uncharacteristic collection was hardly an unwelcome addition to his repertoire.
Descending an elegant staircase in the newly renovated Museum of the City of New York, each model gave us a long look. The womenswear was structured yet loose, in hues of bright yellow and red. Each woman had a lace headpiece tied around her head and under her chin: a somber headpiece with subtle textured beauty. And many of them wore long leather gloves past their elbows, reminiscent of surgical wear. Even some of the jackets, white in color, had the look of a doctor’s coat.
Despite the medical overtones, one could also see military inspiration in the double-breasted jackets and blazers, while a clear athletic influence made its way into a yellow gown with racer stripes running down the sides. Another gown, red and floor-length, was accessorized with a sporty bomber jacket.
The menswear seemed interested in this same military style, which manifested itself in a trench coat with fringe epaulettes, the same arresting structure present in many of his famous leather jackets. With the menswear, the sense of medical anxiety was no longer present; the structure of the pieces along with the pops of color, like a yellow trench coat, rounded the collection out with optimism.
Certainly, we are saddened by our lack of fresh leather jackets, but the new aesthetic detour Viktor Luna has taken is different facet of his creative mind that we haven’t yet seen: a new perspective on a familiar favorite.