The 1980s might have ended more than thirty years ago, but the era’s fashion and style is still going strong during 2024’s fashion month. We’re seeing an inclusive and reimagined version of the original movement, allowing more people to take part in the iconic look on catwalks across the globe.
Leather outerwear is an area of fashion usually in conflict. Some designers are more experimental, allowing models to hit the catwalk wearing leather blazers and short tees. Meanwhile the moto purists are also often out in force, wanting their side to win out in the argument, believing in the ability of leather to speak for itself.
But this fall, things are changing. Everyone now seems to be in agreement that the classic bomber is back in vogue (if it ever went out of it), and that it is a valued part of the 1980s worth celebrating (just like permed hair and grunge metal).
“The degree to which the bomber jacket craze has taken off this year has been a real surprise to us,” says custom leather jacket maker Independence Brothers. “You now have major magazines talking about clothing that was once relegated to the market zones of many major cities, not high-brow fashion stores. It’s an indication of how changes are coming and a longing for the past.“
Some fashion influencers believe the current trend toward bomber leather jackets is a trailblazing movement. In their eyes, this option makes fewer compromises. Fashionistas don’t have the sense that they are about to saddle up on a Harley-Davidson motorcycle as they do with full leathers. However, they also get away from the strong style connotations of leather blazers, which most ordinary people don’t want to wear in their daily lives.
Therefore, the bomber is what Aristotle would call the “the balanced approach” or what the Buddha would refer to as the “middle way.” It’s a return to the leather that people love, but it isn’t trying to be something completely new. Instead, it fits into today’s vibe – it feels at home.
Part of the joy of these leather bomber jackets is that they can be worn how the wearer chooses. Hailey Bieber, for instance, recently showed what the new bomber movement means to her audience when she donned an unusual outfit for a church service. The wife of singer Justin Bieber decided to kickstart fall fashion week by pairing her jacket with yoga pants and kitten heels, displaying the versatility of the bomber in the modern context. The idea is to put it with anything, including sushi dates with her husband.
Fashion designers are also taking more interest in the value of leather on the catwalk. Anthony Vaccarello from Saint Laurent concurs with Hailey’s approach to style, donning his models with 1980s bomber jackets in the upcoming 2025 Spring show.
“The degree to which the top designers are jumping on the leather bomber jacket trend is remarkable,” Independence Brothers explains. “You now have many designers jumping on a movement that essentially died in the 1990s and became relegated to bargain bins in thrift stores. Now, we’re seeing the entire situation turning on a dime, with several big names muscling into the space and trying to make it their own. It’s incredible when you think about it, really.”
The new cast of leather bomber jackets pay homage to the originals, but with a twist. Over the last thirty years, an evolution has taken place, and these jackets are more artistic than ever. Saint Laurent, for instance, is pairing matte black, brown and suede leather with boho maxi dresses and oversized suits.
Even the Hadids seem to be trying to step into leather’s newfound limelight. The sisters have been donning gently sloping jackets while they shop and spend big bucks downtime in extravagant locations in Paris. Some of the completion of their outfits is left to the imagination to avoid looking one hundred percent perfect at all times. After all, bikers don’t sweat the details.
Interestingly, nobody is saying that leather jackets are something radically new. These garments are still staples in many wardrobes. But what designers like Saint Laurent are doing is making them fresh again. The popped-collar pieces are more of a romantic musing than a serious foray into a new era of fashion. But the current trickle of these ideas is turning into a stream and fast becoming a torrent as we head into the cooler, winter months.
“The idea isn’t to look razor sharp in a leather jacket,” Independence Brothers explains. “It’s more about slipping into a particular mode of being and what it says about you as an individual. It’s about being free to be casual but also have some swagger, like a motorcyclist might enjoy. Those roots are still visible.”
Of course, numerous designers are trying to do their bit to capitalize on leather’s moment in the sun. And that’s no different as we head into fall 2024. JW Anderson has a selection of burnished jackets in a distinctive moto style while Dilara Findikoglu has some attractive corseted options for those wanting to suck in the waist. Burberry’s Daniel Lee has also been busy, as reported by the fashion press, creating some belted heritage-chic designs for catwalk audiences to fawn over. And YSL also has a range of leather bombers for its audience to peruse.
The goal of these efforts is to turn leathers into garments their owners can love, like their favorite dresses or shoes. While bombers are a mainstay of thrift stores, these more recent versions add more love to the mix. The idea is to invest in these clothes and make them a part of the wearer.
“The number of people looking for bespoke leather jackets is rising substantially,” Independence Brothers explains. “It’s now almost become a given that if you are going to invest in a leather jacket, it needs to be made to size. After all, many people identify with them. At the same time, people want to live in their jackets; they don’t want them to live ingloriously on their shelves.”
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