Barbara Fleskens
Barbara Fleskens
Having studied at the Amsterdam Fashion Institute, Barbara recently wrote her Master's thesis on the current state of fashion journalism. With her academic expertise, she (critically) assesses the runway and upcoming trends in the fashion hemisphere.

Edeline Lee Spring 2018: London Fashion Week

Mature Nature: Edeline Lee London Fashion Week SS18

On a constant search on what it is to be a woman and how to dress a woman, Edeline Lee developed a matured SS18 collection that might be her best work yet.

Always inspired by art, and simultaneously receiving great support from the art world, it was artist Georgia O’Keeffe that served as her muse this time around. Whilst Lee engaged in a surrealist conversation on gender for her ’17 winter/fall collection, being influenced by Dada artist Hannah Höch, she now relocated her focus on realist femininity only through O’Keeffe’s journey to self-being in the landscapes of New Mexico.

Edeline Lee: London Fashion Week SS18

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So, what does it mean to be a strong, courageous woman who has found her place in this world? According to Lee there lies vulnerability and strength at the core of every woman, which she translated in comfortable, semi loose-fitting dresses, suits and sweaters in traditional ladylike shapes, soft colors and fabrics.

According to Lee there lies vulnerability and strength at the core of every woman

O’Keeffe’s enlarged flowers were reconstructed through origami-like folds and knots, in azure blue and old pink, placed on white, effortless yet powerful dresses in Lee’s signature Flou Bubble Jacquard fabric. Twisted ties and knots on shoulders, arms, waists and even shoes played with shape and proportion, which formed a mimic juxtaposing against the delicate appliques in similar blues, pinks and golden metals on slightly transparent silk blouses and skirts.

O’Keeffe’s enlarged flowers were reconstructed through origami-like folds and knots

While her entire collection and its reference is so on-point, her choice of models might be criticized in the sense that, if Lee aimed to represent a woman in full like O’Keeffe, her choice of young girls (not yet women) seem slightly off. However, they did reflect girls/women of all cultures, and the fact that she put the hijab on such a fashionable pedestal, can only be applauded. Next to this, the models poetically embodied innocence with their messy, out-of-bed hairdos and au naturel make-up, whilst Lee’s sleek and sophisticated designs made them look strong and confident. And isn’t that exactly the essence of dress?

Maturity shines through both this collection and Lee herself. Whereas her previous work was more youthfully playful and frisky, it is interesting to see her grow towards a more quiet vocabulary.


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