For Spring Summer 25 Dreaming Eli returns to Sicily to delve into the rich mythology steeped in her native enchanted island, drawing inspiration from the Greek myth of Scylla and Charybdis, two monsters that inhabited opposite sides of the Strait of Messina, the channel of water separating Italy from Sicily.
The collection gets its inspiration particularly from the figures of Scylla, described in the Odyssey Homer as a supernatural female creature, with 12 feet and 6 heads on long snaky necks, each head having a triple row of sharklike teeth, while her loins were girdled by the heads of baying dogs. From her lair in a cave, she would devour whatever ventured within reach, including six of Odysseus’s companions.
In the West, the image of the fecund female has often been associated with monstrosity; encoded as an emblem of lust, the fecund female and her yelping, parasitic progeny evoke the seemingly uncontrollable nature of femininity, and not surprisingly, the image functions as a locus of male disgust with, and fear of, sexuality and reproduction.
For Spring Summer 25 Dreaming Eli focuses her attention on the villainised character to give her back her humanity and softness. Monster and human, repulsive and beautiful, hard and soft; the sea-monster Scylla is characterized by a duality that first and foremost manifests itself in her physical hybridity. Through the exploration of this duality, Dreaming Eli’s aim is to give her muse the power to reclaim the narration around her own sexuality and fertility.
Dreaming Eli
“Mother of Pearl, Daughter of Flesh is my ode to myself. To my body, to my soul.
With each sketch, each draping and each intricate embroidery I’ve explored and written a story of self love. It’s rough and crude, dark and brutal, but also so unbelievably beautiful. A beauty that strikes to the soul, like the mother of pearl inside an oyster. A protective layer: that’s how pearls are born.
With “Mother of Pearl, Daughter of Flesh” I found myself. Layer after layer after layer.
I felt myself. I touched my core and stroke the intricacy of my veins.
It’s me in me.
I feel it deeply.
The love, the joy, the sex, the cuts on my soul.
I feel it deeply.
The surprise of a heart that beats faster and faster.
I feel it deeply,
THE LOVE FOR MYSELF.
I HUG MY BEAUTY TIGHT.
ALWAYS FIERCE. ALWAYS BOLD. ALWAYS POWERFUL.
I feel it deeply.
With my flesh, and the veins under my skin.
With my core, and the tightening of my hip.
With my tongue, and the taste of my own blood. Of life. Of salt.
I feel it deeply.
Till feelings is all I feel”
-Elisa Trombatore, Dreaming Eli
The references to the underwater are translated into the textiles with subtle powder blue making its entrance for the first time alongside shades of creams and champagnes to embrace the inside of an oyster, fading from one to the other and intermingling strong contrast visible in the ombré effect present, accentuated by the rich beading, encrusted fresh water pearls in white, pinks and blacks almost like shells growing one over the other. Distressed gauzes are embossed onto corsets and dresses, crawling up the body like sea moss on rocks and like waves on the sea the fabric travels up the models legs creating mermaid trousers and skirts. The fine Chantilly lace’s flowers are carefully cut out and blending into the skin, giving it a delicate texture, reminding of mermaid flesh.
Spring Summer 25 explores signature Dreaming Eli corsetry, vintage corsetry elements, such as crinolines, fan laces, busks and suspenders bring structure to the organic textures. The iconic Dreaming Eli triple corset is here deconstructed and developed in new intricate designs. The art of draping and layering makes each piece unique and one of a kind promoting Dreaming Eli ethos of handmade production, which alongside the continuation of exploration of upcycled denim which for the season is cut out and enriched with the delicate lace.
New for this season is the second ever Dreaming Eli shoes design, a Ballerina Platform for everyday use. Dramatic like its predecessor Wild Hearts Platform heels, the chunky ballerina has a square point toe with ribbons fastenings and a bold platform to give its wearer an edge. The Ballerina Platform will come in four colours: ivory, pale pink, mocha and black.
Dreaming Eli and renowned artist Sophie Tea is for Spring Summer 25 collaborating on a live painted dress, creating during Dreaming Eli SS25 LFW presentation. The final art piece will be live auctioned later this Autumn.
I felt myself for the first time, walking on waves, made of suffering and grace.
It’s me, in me – the sea is a woman.
Styling by Matt King
Art Direction by Arian De Vos
Casting by Chloe Rosolek
Production by Antony Waller @ AW+C
Makeup by Carly Utting and the M·A·C PRO Team for @ maccosmeticsuki
Hair by Aaron Firmstone for @ BumblebumbleUK @ Bumbleandbumble
Nails by Hannah Bent for ORLY Nails UK
Photography by Aitor Rosas for Iker Aldama
Videography by Jordan Fox
Music by Arian De Vos
PR by IPR London
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With love,
FWO
