Before the Door Opens: Christian Cowan Turns Intimacy into Spectacle for Fall/Winter 2026 NYFW

Christian Cowan unveiled his Fall/Winter 2026 collection this evening in New York, presenting a cinematic meditation on transformation, intimacy, and spectacle titled Before the Door Opens.

This season, Cowan shifts his focus from the public street to the private interior. The bedroom. The dressing room. The suspended breath before an entrance. Fall/Winter 2026 examines the ritual of getting dressed as both vulnerability and performance, where the private self is constructed into character and anticipation becomes its own form of theater.

Working with original 1950s textiles, antique lace trims, and traditional corsetry techniques, Cowan reimagined garments once meant to remain hidden. Bullet bras, waist cinchers, and foundation pieces stepped unapologetically into the spotlight. No longer structural afterthoughts, they became protagonists, exposed, empowered, and integral to the narrative.

Time moved fluidly throughout the collection. Backless silk gowns evoking the languor of the 1920s dissolved into sculptural mid-century underpinnings. Crisp contemporary tailoring softened beneath exaggerated fur, crystal embellishment, and heightened surface drama. Men appeared in corsets, challenging the gendered ownership of restriction and adornment. Torn slips were reconstructed over nude illusion. Crystal gowns revealed the body without surrendering control, striking a deliberate tension between provocation and precision. Two bespoke handbags by BSWANKY punctuated the runway with sculptural clarity, reinforcing the dialogue between intimacy and craftsmanship.

Christian Cowan


Photos: Launchmetrics

Headwear was created by London-based milliner Harvy Santos, whose couture hats and headpieces introduced a layer of theatrical duality. Jewelry by Jennifer Behr added romantic refinement and sculptural brilliance to the collection’s most cinematic moments.

Drawing inspiration from the fragile glamour of mid-century screen heroines and the emotional volatility of Tennessee Williams’ theatrical worlds, Cowan approached dressing as choreography. Fastening. Tightening. Unhooking. Becoming.

“I have always been fascinated by the moment before you step out the door,” said Christian Cowan. “There is something powerful about that private ritual, when you are alone with the mirror and deciding who you are about to be. This season, I wanted to expose that process and make it the spectacle itself.”

Styling and consulting were led by Jordan Kelsey, whose sharp and avant-garde visual language heightened the collection’s tension between intimacy and glamour. Movement direction was by Ed Munro, who transformed the runway into a living arc of restrained vulnerability evolving into heightened performance.

The show’s sonic landscape was mixed by New York-based multimedia artist Anderson Folsom. Known for narrative-driven audio visual storytelling, Folsom crafted a soundscape that deepened the emotional progression of the show, underscoring its cinematic shift from private ritual to public reveal.

Beauty played a defining role in the narrative’s evolution. TRESemmé served as the official hair partner, creating polished yet emotionally charged styles that that proved side parts are back. Skincare was led by The Face Shop, whose backstage preparation focused on radiant, perfected skin. Makeup was executed by Beautick, with Key Makeup Artist Nana Hiramatsu leading the team alongside artists from Beautick and Makeup School NYC. The beauty direction emphasized sculpted definition, cinematic depth, and a glow that felt intimate rather than overt.

The evening balanced high glamour with irreverence. Pizza Hut partnered with Christian Cowan on a custom invitation and surprised select VIP guests with personal pan pizzas placed at their seats, injecting a playful and distinctly New York energy into the experience. Perrier kept guests and backstage teams refreshed throughout the night with branded coolers and dedicated water service.

Behind the scenes, VIP dressing and time sensitive show deliveries were powered by Taskrabbit, supporting the seamless execution of the collection from private fittings to runway reveal.

The staging echoed the collection’s thesis. A deliberately stripped back set allowed the garments to carry the emotional weight. Guests were guided from the quiet intimacy of lingerie and innerwear through increasingly expressive silhouettes, culminating in a final procession of high octane evening looks fit for a party one might slip away from just before dawn. Fall/Winter 2026 exists in the charged space between the mirror and the door, where dressing becomes an act of desire, authorship, and control.

Notable guests included Julia Fox, Bebe Rexha, Maitreyi Ramakrishnan, Katherine Hughes, Branden Cook, Sonia Mena, Spencer House, B.o.B, Jenna Lyons, Rowan Henchy, and others.

About Christian Cowan

CHRISTIAN COWAN is a collection of womenswear and accessories, founded in 2017 by its namesake creative director who was born in Spain and raised in England.

Based in New York, the collection evolves with each new season, inspired by the city around it. Exceptional materials and exquisite details are the foundation of each garment. Renowned for occasion wear, the collection is a go-to for celebrities around the world.

The collection has been featured in publications including The New York Times, Vogue, WWD, The Financial Times, Business of Fashion, Harpers Bazaar, W, InStyle, Architectural Digest, Self Service, Vogue Paris and Vogue Italia.

christiancowan.com | @christiancowan

About Unilever in North America

Unilever is one of the world’s leading suppliers of Beauty & Wellbeing, Personal Care, Home Care, and Foods, with sales in over 190 countries and products used by 3.4 billion people every day. We have 128,000 employees and generated sales of €60.8 billion in 2024.

Our leading brands in North America include Dove, Hellmann’s, Vaseline, Degree, Axe, TRESemmé, Knorr, Nutrafol, Liquid I.V., Paula’s Choice, and Dermalogica.

For more information on Unilever U.S. and its brands visit: www.unileverusa.com
For more information on Unilever Canada and its brands visit: www.unilever.ca

About Pizza Hut®

Pizza Hut, a subsidiary of Yum! Brands, Inc. (NYSE: YUM), was founded in 1958 in Wichita, Kansas, and is a global leader in the pizza category with nearly 20,000 restaurants in more than 110 markets and territories. The brand has earned a reputation as a trailblazer in innovation with the creation of icons like Original Pan® and Original Stuffed Crust® pizzas. In 1994, Pizza Hut pizza was the very first online food order, and today Pizza Hut continues leading the way in the digital and technology space with over half of transactions worldwide coming from digital orders. In addition, Pizza Hut has Hut Rewards®, the brand’s loyalty program in the U.S. that offers points for every dollar spent on food any way you order. Leveraging its global presence, Pizza Hut also works to positively impact restaurant employees, the communities they serve and the environment through commitments across three priority areas: More Equity, Less Carbon and Better Packaging.

About BSWANKY

BSWANKY is a Luxury Design House founded by Artist Gretchen Bauer, renowned for its meticulously handcrafted, one-of-a-kind bespoke handbags. In their very own Atelier located in Sarasota, Florida, they are setting the standards in craftsmanship while fearlessly pairing rare exotics. Those in the world who can collect any brand, choose to collect and carry BSWANKY. It is more than just an accessory, it’s a timeless wearable work of art.

Learn more about the brand at bswanky.com and @BSWANKY.

About The Face Shop

Founded in 2003, The Face Shop is one of Korea’s leading beauty brands, renowned for blending nature-based ingredients and time-honored Korean skincare traditions with modern innovation. With a commitment to creating simple, effective, high-quality, and affordable skincare routines, the brand has grown to a global presence of more than 3,000 stores across 35 countries, including the United States, Canada, Asia, Australia, and the Middle East. For over two decades, The Face Shop’s vision has remained rooted in harnessing the power of nature whenever possible, developing products made with beneficial ingredients designed to help everyone achieve their best-looking skin. A leader in the Korean cleansing space, The Face Shop is especially recognized for its iconic Rice Water Bright collection, a longtime favorite among the global makeup community.

About Task Rabbit

Taskrabbit is a global digital platform that connects people seeking help with household tasks — such as furniture assembly, TV mounting, moving, and home improvements — to skilled, reliable Taskers in their communities. Acquired by the Ingka Group (IKEA) in 2017, Taskrabbit operates in thousands of cities across eight countries: Canada, France, Germany, Italy, Portugal, Spain, the United Kingdom, and the United States. Taskrabbit is also available in 240+ IKEA stores worldwide.

To find out more, please visit www.taskrabbit.com or join the conversation with @Taskrabbit on Instagram, TikTok, Facebook, X, LinkedIn, Pinterest, and YouTube.

About MAISON PERRIER beverages

MAISON PERRIER beverages are pioneering a new chapter from the makers of Perrier. MAISON PERRIER is an uplifting range of sparkling beverages offering a pleasurable and intense taste to meet your varying needs and taste preferences throughout the day. Whether you’re looking for an uplifting mid-afternoon treat or refined new flavors for mocktail drinks out with friends. Learn more at www.maisonperrier.us/ or follow them on Facebook and Instagram.

Beautick

Since 1993 BEAUTICK, provides Agency services for Hair & Make-Up to Top Fashion Brands and Private Clients, VIC & EVENTS all over the World thanks to its Passion, Experience and Glam. With its HQ in Milan, Beautick is also located in Europe, Asia and America.

Beppe D’Elia, Creative Director as well as Founder of BEAUTICK, coordinates the Backstage of the most important Fashion Industry Brands, including Alberta Ferretti, Alexis Mabille, Delvaux, Dolce&Gabbana, Ermanno Scervino, Fendi, Heliot Emil, Hugo Boss, Moncler, Philipp Plein, Versace, Zegna.

Over the years she has won trust and esteem of celebrities such as Sharon Stone, Paris Hilton, Uma Thurman, and Top Models such as Bella Hadid and Cara Delevigne.

Beautick has always stood out for its ability to offer Tailor-Made solutions for Private Client and Company Client, fulfilling every desire for beauty and always guaranteeing impeccable service. Editorials, Celebrities, Runways & Red Carpets are our DNA and Beating Heart.

High quality and discretion, dedication and empathy have always allowed us to combine Luxury and Excellence, the Souls of our Beautick Beauty Concept.

@Beautick_official
@Beautick_americas

About Chillhouse

Chillhouse is a modern and fast growing nail care brand redefining self-care through a celebration of self-expression, design-driven products, and innovative treatments. Known for its award-winning press-ons, polish, and nail care essentials, Chillhouse has become a category leader with placement in Target, Walmart, CVS, Urban Outfitters, Amazon, and hundreds of specialty and indie retailers worldwide. Alongside its product line, Chillhouse operates an experiential flagship in SoHo, NYC, offering nail art manicures, massages, and facials, serving as both a community hub and a destination for wellness enthusiasts. With a hyper-engaged global community and features in top-tier publications such as Vogue, The New York Times, and Oprah Magazine, Chillhouse continues to shape the future of nails, self-care, culture, and more.

About Harvy Santos

Harvy Santos is a modern milliner who creates hats and couture headpieces that fuse traditional techniques with new materials, and timeless elegance with fashion-forward flare. Featuring exquisite details and fine lines, each piece is a unique creation entirely hand made from luxurious materials in his London studio.

Born in the Philippines, Harvy trained as a dancer and joined the professional company of the Hong Kong Ballet for six seasons before moving to the UK to study millinery. He worked for the Royal Ballet & Opera as well as leading British milliners Noel Stewart and Stephen Jones, and has made hats for numerous film and television productions including Bridgerton, Queen Charlotte, Disney’s Snow White and Wicked. His classical training, both on stage and in the workshop, continues to inform his elegantly energetic work.

Winner of multiple awards for his personal work and recognised by the British Fashion Council as part of a new wave of British milliners, Harvy launched his own label in 2014 and has produced twenty-one collections. Harvy’s hats are on display in the National Museum of Scotland, were exhibited at the Spielzug Welten Museum in Switzerland and honoured with a major solo exhibition at Portugal’s Museu da Chapelaria in 2018.

Hats from his collections have appeared in glossy magazines around the world and graced many famous heads including Hebe Tien, Bibi Zhou, Isabella Rossellini, Natalie Dormer, Jamie Campbell Bower, Jonathan Bailey, Ethan Slater, Ncuti Gatwa, Lady Gaga and Cynthia Erivo.

ABOUT “TWO ONE”

“Two One” is the twenty-first couture collection of hats and headpieces from Harvy Santos London, combining spring/summer and autumn/winter seasons into a single theme of duality for 2026. Designs have been doubled and mirrored, with twin hats in alternate tones. Classic and signature shapes have been cloned, creating doppelgänger moods. All the designs in the “Two One” collection have been conceived and built from two main structural components, giving each hat a persona with two sides—just like every individual who chooses to wear one. All pieces are made to order and handcrafted in the London studio from man-made and natural materials, including stitched braids and luxurious leathers.

Website: harvysantos.com
Instagram: @harvysantoshats

About Jennifer Behr

Following studies in sculpture and art history, Jennifer Behr went on to create one of fashion’s pioneering luxury hair accessories brands. Launched in 2005, the eponymous line is crafted by hand in New York City.

With early endorsements from Bergdorf Goodman and Henri Bendel, it wasn’t long before the brand gained recognition with global press and celebrity exposure. Jennifer quickly became New York’s foremost atelier, designing elaborate and custom headpieces for fashion shoots and events, all interwoven with a sense of romanticism and ethereal appeal. After establishing her brand as the premiere name in headpieces worldwide, Jennifer broadened her collection to include exquisitely embellished cold-weather knit hats. Then in Spring 2017, she launched her jewelry line—an effortless brand expansion of modern femininity and timeless elegance.

Hannah Longman
Hannah Longman
From fashion school in NYC to the front row, Hannah works to promote fashion and lifestyle as the communications liaison of Fashion Week Online®, responsible for timely communication of press releases and must-see photo sets.

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