The Cloud-Making Factory
We are living in the world where virtual and real coexist.
The theme of every season by APUJAN is inspired by literature, and associated with chaotic timelines and imaginations within parallel worlds. Through different topics and imagination of virtual worlds, APUJAN creates a unique worldview by interlacing different timelines. In the season of Autumn/Winter 2020, APUJAN brings another whimsical chapter “The Cloud-Making Factory” to London Fashion Week, using elements such as fantastic factories, gears, chimneys, robots and islands, to transport his audience to the places where clouds, stars and moons are created.
There are many books that inspire the story of this season, such as “Tents in the Clouds” by Monica Jackson and Elizabeth Stark, “The Cloudspotter’s Guide: The Science, History, and Culture of Clouds” by Gavin Pretor-Pinney, “Stories of Your Life and Others” by Ted Chiang and “The Paper Managerie and Other Stories” by Ken Liu.
The Cloud-Making Factory
In this imaginary world, all the wonderful things are from the same origin, where vast arrays of machines operate to create clouds and the starry sky. There are pterodactyls, spaceships, and antique expedition aircraft travelling among the clouds. Below them are the chimneys of the cloud-making factory, where gears, conveyor belts, and islands float between the black, white and blue sky.
This is an imaginary world behind the imaginary world, an imaginary word behind the island B of Jurassic Park. This is a glimpse of the storybook through the accidental split. In the printed patterns, by using the outline of vector file, APUJAN implies that the world we see is actually drawn. We are in a world where virtual and real coexist. In this world, we don’t know where we are, and which part is real.
The Autumn/Winter collection contains over 100 individual pieces. APUJAN will be displaying 36 outfits on the runway, featuring headwear, scarves, knitwear, evening gowns and ready to wear. The overarching theme continues in the brand’s signature style, featuring oriental details and western contours, with additional elements that draw on the traditions of fantasy and imagination. This season, the details of oriental clothing elements such as cheongsam buckle, oriental collar and sleeve, and traditional festive headwear can be found integrated into different modern style garments such as shirts, coats, dresses and gowns. There are also more sports and leisure styles. The accessories that can be seen on the runway include hand-woven hats, floral headwear and 3-D printed gears.
As with previous collections, APUJAN works with his original and exclusively developed fabrics, using a wide range of techniques such as digital embroidery, semi 3-D jacquard fabric, transparent embroidery and digital print. He also works with varies materials such as silk, cotton and cashmere, as well as lamb and merino wools. A variety of knitted styles are created with these raw materials using both manual and automated weaving. A large number of computer-generated techniques are also used this season to create the knitted styles.
In recent seasons, APUJAN has also incorporated sports and leisure elements into the design. This season, he is collaborating with NIKE again, using the upcoming Air Max as the shoes on the show, which links to, and echoes with the clothing. A set of knitwear created by APUJAN to pay tribute to NIKE AIR MAX will also feature on this show, which explores new design possibilities for clothing for the future (This item is not for sale).
DJ QuestionMark (Chi-Shuan Ying), music director of APUJAN, produces original music according to the theme of the show. This season, using the glitch and future beat styles; he mixes strong electronic sound with soulful funk and jazz texture to set the atmosphere for the show. 4 original tracks will premier at the show, including a sample from the top ranking tune in Taiwan, “On Cloud 9” by RPG &V!CKY, echoing the topic of this season “The Cloud-Making Factory”. The music will be performed by DJ QuestionMark Live which consists of a group of UK musicians, including Jack Banjo Courtney/Trumpet, Adam McLoughlin/Tenor saxophone, Sophie Watson/Alto saxophone, Jeremy Paul/Drum.
APUJAN is proud to welcome Australian born, Taiwanese R&B singer, Julia Wu as this season’s special guest. In addition to visiting the UK for the first time, it is also the first time Julia to be invited overseas as special guest at Fashion Week. She will be wearing the APUJAN 2020 Spring/Summer collection “A Strange Thief of Time” dinosaurs and starry sky jacquard side cut-out gown on the day of the fashion show. Through APUJAN designs, she interprets the soft and delicate side hidden behind the distinctive character.
APUJAN is a London-based womenswear label founded by designer Apu Jan, debuting in Autumn/Winter 2013 London Fashion Week. The designs are renowned for integrating patterns and knitwear techniques to illustrate themes inspired by fantasy and literature. The juxtaposition of traditional and oriental elements with a contemporary twist, and the interweaving of bold and casual elements are at the heart of APUJAN’s unique style, and have become the hallmarks of the label. APUJAN design can often be seen on the cover of many influential magazines in Asia. Many Asian actresses also chose APUJAN on the red carpet and as their preferred brand.
The inspiration for the designs came from many different places, often associated with books, space fantasy and imagination of the past. Each season, inspired by a list of books, Apu Jan creates a story containing his favourite elements, leading the audience to experience the fantasy world of his imagination. Surrounded by beautiful material, elements such as fossils of dinosaurs, roses, sheep, and space related objects could often be found in APUJAN designs, threading through the stories of every season.
APUJAN had attracted international media attention. It was the top 10 culture and creative brands in Taiwan, and the designer was One of the GQ Men of the Year, Taiwan. The collections were featured in major fashion and design publications including Vogue, GQ, ELLE, Bazaar, and WALLPAPER. Furthermore, APUJAN designs were shown at the La Cite de la Dentelle et de la mode in Calais, France; and showroom during Paris Fashion Week.
Outside of runway collection, APUJAN have collaborated with various industries by utilising the storytelling method to connect with different audiences: most recently with McDonald’s Taiwan for the packaging of a seasonal meal. Other projects include In-flight loungewear for EVA airline, branding for Kuo Yuan Ye, a traditional oriental pastry company, and the dancers’ costumes for the Cloud Gate Dance Theatre of Taiwan.
APUJAN collection can be found from the official online shop (shop.apujan.com) and the concept stores located in Shin Kong Place department stores in Suzhou and Chongqing, China. Part of the designs are also displayed and sold in selected stores in Taipei and London.
About Music DJ QuestionMark (Chi-Shuan Ying) is a DJ, music producer and flutist based in the UK. He is the champion of the DMC World DJ Championship Taiwan and had been nominated for best producer in Taiwan’s Golden Melody Awards,
Sponsorship The trainers featured in the show are sponsored by NIKE. The hairstyles featured in the show are sponsored by Takuya Morimoto at Daniel Gavin using L’Oréal Professionnel. Makeup by Yin Lee using Ellis FAAS Cosmetics and Dermalogica skincare for AofmPro. The goody bag (at the show) are sponsored by jacked and Emily.