Antonio Grimaldi has chosen to present his new haute couture collection through a short movie, directed by Simone Guidarelli and starring Saudi model Taleedah Tamer and Iranian model Farnoush Hamidian Savadkouhi.
Antonio Grimaldi: “A tribute to women’s freedom. The protagonists of my new collection are two strong and courageous women: Taleedah, the first Saudi supermodel who made her debut on my catwalk in 2018 in Paris and who comes from a society that is proudly opening up to rights, and Farnoush, who instead represents a parallel world where rights are nowadays being denied.”
Inspiration then comes from George Bizet’s Carmen, a nonconformist woman, a fatal and fearless gypsy, capable of living a love story worthy of a heroine of classical tragedies. “L’amour est un oiseau rebelle,” as Bizet’s verses in his Habanera read: a love that is born, grows, and dies in ardent and impetuous hearts, which sees Carmen, a beautiful and passionate gypsy in love with freedom and independence, die after seducing Jose and abandoning him to follow another man.
The collection, which amounts to a total of 25 outfits, is divided into 3 main garments: jumpsuits, mini-dresses and evening gowns.
The first ones, to be used as day and cocktail dresses, are characterized by high waist and structured with wide shoulders whose silhouette resembles a bolero. While the mini dresses feature both an A-line silhouette that leaves the shoulders bare as well as voluminous sleeves. However, the evening gowns predominate, featured by sculptural yet sensual lines, characterized by silhouettes squeezed from the waist down to the knee, and exploding into voluminous ruffles.
Flounces and ruffles are indeed one of the leitmotifs of this collection. Giant or small in size, ruffles become sculptural, they are repeated in layers, in sleeves, in the back of silhouettes. Applied with great expertise on skirts, they give volume or develop on the waist like a large basque.
Another recurring theme: polka dots, in micro and macro versions, made of vinyl or crystals, applied or embroidered, hand-sewn on the veils or three-dimensional that seem to spill out of the garments like spikes.
Once again, the bangs, which return in many outfits going all over the dresses and falling long on the waist.
The color palette is tinged with passion and vitality: in addition to whites and blacks, Viva Magenta (the 2023 color identified by the Pantone Color Institute) stands out, along with vibrant and bold shades ranging from light and shocking pinks to red tones, almost as if it were a vibrant Lipstick Palette.
The main fabric of this collection is Radzmir, a heavy silk fabric with a twill weave, which goes along with many other familiar fabrics of the Maison, such as cady, moiré taffeta, and faille: all doubled and reinforced with silk tundra to give body to the whole structure of the dress.
The looks are completed by crystal-embroidered, thread-embroidered gloves on tulle, matching both the gown and the veils.
Movie and Creative Direction
Maurizio Morreale @ julianwatsonagency
Anna Maria Negri + Maurizio Calabró and Team sponsor by @narsissist
Andrea Spezzigu | Perfectogether
A special thanks to
Antonio Grimaldi Team