Gabriela Billini is a non-native New Yorker who travels the world to understand why people wear what they wear and how. She is an independent fashion reporter, trend chaser, and self-proclaimed beatnik.

Jacquemus Spring ’17

jacquemus_ss17_santonsdeprovence_28To call it “dramatic staging” would have been an understatement. Before the show had even begun, thick fog filled the air, and the ominous lighting was dark and serious.

As the looks began to emerge, there was such a tangible feel of enchantment in the air — they were so soft and alluring, yet dense with thought and creativity.

Pure and Simple

Designer Simone Porte Jacquemus chose to draw his inspiration from a place close to home — les Stantons de Provence. Looks hearkened back to a more traditional time in the South of France, where community members engaged in agricultural work-dress for their days, with obvious and organic French flare.

Looks hearkened back to a more traditional time in the South of France.

One word to describe the collection was “constructed,” but not overly so. The designer was careful to bring the woman to a semi-genderless space, with square and rectangular silhouettes, and yet he is so very vigilant to accent a woman’s natural curves to avoid losing a dash of femininity.

A strong square shoulder was a key point, sometimes with exponentially voluminous sleeves to draw attention, but the body itself stayed true to accessible prêt-à-porter. The configuration complemented the rectangle pants to show an H-figure in a fashionably conscious way.

A component of men’s suiting was present and strong — a big topic of conversation for designers in the last year or so, since the dream to revive YSL’s Le Smoking was anticipated. The two-piece suits were square, as for a man, but fluid with excess fabric and measured mobility, and leaving the deep V to accentuate volume. I can so easily picture a Parisienne traversing a wide boulevard, donning this look on an average spring Saturday afternoon.

the dream to revive YSL’s Le Smoking

The footwear was precisely exciting and minimal, in this very tricky Jacquemus way — the heels themselves were cylindrical, lifting a rectangular instep.

Jacquemus’ SS17 collection is easily one of the most beautiful collections I have ever seen. The way in which the designer executed a vision of clearly defined lines with the blend of femininity and masculinity left me basically floored.

This was easily one of the most beautiful collections I have ever seen.

The models donned these masculine-infused looks with such elegance, simplicity, and then so much confidence. It spoke to me so much, that these elements could combine into one serene runway show, all in less than 10 minutes. He addressed so many things that face womenswear and fashion at large — such as gender fluidity — while maintaining enough curvature to ensure a woman’s body is still the central focus.

Gender fluidity, while maintaining enough curvature

The added drama of the straw hats tied it all together for a full spring look: one we are sure to see across le cote d’azure next summer. These hats are a variation of what we have been seeing at other Paris Fashion Week shows, as well as in New York Fashion Week: Men’s this past July.

Make no mistake — this is one for the books.

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Learn More

jacquemus.com

With love,

FWO

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