Asequel to preceding seasons, the latest Saint Laurent collection presents Anthony Vaccarello’s evolving vision in the rotunda of the Bourse de Commerce – Pinault Collection.
Art and Saint Laurent have been complicit since the beginning, making Japanese architect Tadao Ando’s radical structure-within-a-structure a natural setting for tonight’s concise and intimate presentation. The gleaming concrete cylinder echoes the luminous circle at the center of the brand’s last menswear show, almost inadvertently, the O shape, a symbol of perfection and purity of execution, becomes a recurring, pertinent thread at Saint Laurent.
Saint Laurent Men’s Winter 23
The ultra-focused presentation is characterized by refined, exhaustively thought-out details. A long, fluid silhouette is punctured with assertive shoulders and a narrow waist. A restrained palette – black, white, camel, navy, flashes of silver – reinforces a sense of bold sophistication. Each look is considered to a fault.
The ultra-focused presentation is characterized by exhaustively thought-out details
An unexpectedly confident chiffon shirt and hooded knitwear tunics are paired with ground-skimming, sweatpants-inspired trousers that inject ease to the overall precision. Coats introduce a new, ample volume. Shape and length are reconsidered to produce exciting pieces that reinterpret established brand codes. Soft fabrics – including mohair, cashmere, satin and velvet – contrast with hard-edged textures. Throughout, the point-of-view is strikingly unified.
The house’s signature dialogue between masculine and feminine continues with increasing fluidity: while borrowed male elements always inform Saint Laurent womenswear, here a reciprocal influence is inescapable. It is evident in the masterful play of proportions and an idea of wrapping the body: further developing the hooded silhouettes of the most recent Saint Laurent women’s collection, a number of men’s looks for Winter 2023 extend up to cover the head with cagoules.
The house’s dialogue between masculine and feminine continues with increasing fluidity
MEN’S WINTER 23 SHOW
BY ANTHONY VACCARELLO
SOUNDTRACK BY SEBASTIAN
ARRANGED AND PERFORMED BY PAUL PRIER
BOURSE DE COMMERCE – PINAULT COLLECTION
© TADAO ANDO ARCHITECT & ASSOCIATES, NINEY ET MARCA ARCHITECTES, AGENCE PIERRE-ANTOINE GATIER